Most lead acid chargers run at 13.8V, so 27.6V total.
That is above the recommended max (26.4V) of this amplifier.
So be very carefull with two lead acids in series.
Their nominal voltage is okay, but their fully charged voltage is dangerous.
That is above the recommended max (26.4V) of this amplifier.
So be very carefull with two lead acids in series.
Their nominal voltage is okay, but their fully charged voltage is dangerous.
OK so I brought my amp to a new computer. How do I download the current Amp settings into the software??
I picked up the batteries at a yardsale, guy said they were new, just bought from Amzn and couldnt be returned. I use the charger intended for my electric lawnmower, which also uses two 12V lead acid gel batteries in series.
Just charged them till the green light came on, let them rest overnight. Measuring with my Fluke 87, I see 25.71V. So I'm "in" with this set / charger combo. Unsure if a different charger will take them higher; maybe. I'll have to remember to be careful about that!
So will everyone else attempting to use SLA batteries - unless you pair a 12 with a 6 for a safer 18V ;')
I think you have to save it previously. Can you check your old comp to see if you did?
One time I built everything up, had it just the way I wanted, loaded it up into the amp. Then pressed the wrong button, didnt realize what I did to cancel - and it loaded up my previously saved settings. Had to do it all over again to save...even though it was loaded up into the amp.
Yesssssss!
Fingers crossed.
Joe, FYI for a bit of extra safety and over-voltage protection when using battery banks, I have sometimes just put in extra diodes to reduce voltage a little bit.
Can you say more - I'm lining up to order one of your current amplifier modules but if you're working on a more powerful version I may hold off?
Been there ! I wonder if there is any way to download your current amp settings to the software??
I successfully wired up a USB to I2S converter to my AIO4CH. Here's a picture showing the connections - while playing, of course! It's an ebay / aliex PCM2706 board, works for the 44.1 / 48 k stuff. Works using my W10 PC laptop and my rPi 3B running PiCorePlayer.
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Oh, it allows me to plug the amp into my laptop, or Raspberry Pi, directly instead of using BT. BT worked no problem on both those "player" platforms, I just wanted to try a direct wired connection. I think it sounds slightly better, but who knows - could be just my imagination ;')
It's certainly less laggy. Even though new BT is quite good I sometimes get "glitches", probably some kind of buffering thing.
No, I'm talking about digital in via the i2s vs the bluetooth module.
I have not experienced a single BT receiver that's been completely glitch-free during playback. If you pay attention you can hear it on just about any BT device, not a like it's very frequent.
I am more sensitive to the time delay, there's also quite a lot of buffering so it's not the best to use when watching a movie or playing a game.
But other than that I guess in the debate of jack vs BT... It's a toss. If you have a noisy source then BT is better because of the isolation. If you have a good quality source with low noise then my vote goes to jack because of lower delay.
I have not experienced a single BT receiver that's been completely glitch-free during playback. If you pay attention you can hear it on just about any BT device, not a like it's very frequent.
I am more sensitive to the time delay, there's also quite a lot of buffering so it's not the best to use when watching a movie or playing a game.
But other than that I guess in the debate of jack vs BT... It's a toss. If you have a noisy source then BT is better because of the isolation. If you have a good quality source with low noise then my vote goes to jack because of lower delay.
yeah the delay is definitely an issue if its for TV or video games. Watching someones mouth move at a different time than the audio is fun 🙂
anyone found a good subwoofer to use on these amps ?? I'm looking for a super efficient 100w 4ohm DVC sub....
Now i have sound in my amp 🙂
I dont know what who was wrong the first time i tested, anyway, i will come back with further inpressions later.
I dont know what who was wrong the first time i tested, anyway, i will come back with further inpressions later.
Interesting. I read the completed post and there are a lot of good ideas. But I still remain confused.
1. What is the power requirement, 24/36 or more VDC. Is it DC?
2. What is a 2.1 system.
3. Will I require 2 boards to power a 2-way Stereo Speakers and 1 sub-woofer
4. Can I send digital via my Gustard U12 that currently sends digital input to my DAC
5. It has a DAC?
6. I just plug in the speaker.
7. Is there a hook-up diagram?
Sorry for all the questions, I just got totally confused.
1. What is the power requirement, 24/36 or more VDC. Is it DC?
2. What is a 2.1 system.
3. Will I require 2 boards to power a 2-way Stereo Speakers and 1 sub-woofer
4. Can I send digital via my Gustard U12 that currently sends digital input to my DAC
5. It has a DAC?
6. I just plug in the speaker.
7. Is there a hook-up diagram?
Sorry for all the questions, I just got totally confused.
A link to the datasheet may help:
https://zoudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/AIO4CH-datasheet-V1.1.2.pdf
https://zoudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/AIO4CH-datasheet-V1.1.2.pdf
Thank you.
Now I have a better idea.
Wired – analogue. That is a shame. Is there anyway of sending via wire (as I do not like Blue Tooth) a digital input to the board.???
It seemed too good to be true.
Another question: What are the 5 pins on the Left hand side of the board for?? The ones sticking up
Now I have a better idea.
Wired – analogue. That is a shame. Is there anyway of sending via wire (as I do not like Blue Tooth) a digital input to the board.???
It seemed too good to be true.
Another question: What are the 5 pins on the Left hand side of the board for?? The ones sticking up
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