Yeah, lutkeveld is hopefully still aiming for a TAS3251 version, fingers crossed!
I'll buy 2 of those, IMMEDIATELY.
Edit:
Wishlist: Drop BT and use toslink/spdif in and out to link with other boards, or just some i2s through a connector for putting some boards together, I realize AES may be out of the question.
I'll buy 2 of those, IMMEDIATELY.
Edit:
Wishlist: Drop BT and use toslink/spdif in and out to link with other boards, or just some i2s through a connector for putting some boards together, I realize AES may be out of the question.
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The plan was to use all 4 channels, with two of them feeding a 4 ohm woofer.
Great! What I'm really trying to figure out is whether to go for a 4 ohm woofer instead of 8 ohms in order to get a little more output from this amp.
Just finished setting up mine now. Sounds great! Plenty of power too it seems (24v 10A supply). Had some software issues tho:
- Windows drivers wouldn't install if I chose "Run" directly without extracting archive first
- Realised that the software doesn't initialise to the board settings after connecting so I wiped all my settings
- I set the start volume to 24 db (remember setting), but can't get it to actually remember previous volume between sessions. It always starts in full (24 db) volume. Pretty scary!
And last but not least, I can't get the board to be recognised by Windows anymore... Had luck once at the beginning, where I got to set it up. But now that I want to make changes, I can't get the PC to see the USB device anymore.
Tried different cables, all kinds of combinations of connecting/disconnecting while amp is on/off etc.
Any tips?
- Windows drivers wouldn't install if I chose "Run" directly without extracting archive first
- Realised that the software doesn't initialise to the board settings after connecting so I wiped all my settings
- I set the start volume to 24 db (remember setting), but can't get it to actually remember previous volume between sessions. It always starts in full (24 db) volume. Pretty scary!
And last but not least, I can't get the board to be recognised by Windows anymore... Had luck once at the beginning, where I got to set it up. But now that I want to make changes, I can't get the PC to see the USB device anymore.
Tried different cables, all kinds of combinations of connecting/disconnecting while amp is on/off etc.
Any tips?
And therein lies the problem for me and many others I suspect; that big 'ol fat "A" in the TPAXXXX id. Capacitive coupling just to get a signal into the chip - yum - how 1970s!
If I wanted _analog_ I'd buy myself a tube amp or one of the Class-A Pass designs. I want the "S" in TASXXXX - for the very specific reasons it implies. I'll gladly throw the cables, ground loops / power strips, DACs, Vinyl, tape loop, FM, input selector control / RCA connector bank all right out with the bathwater to get it.
I've read TI makes a boost module you can just connect to the class D signals of any low power amp that'll give you the hundreds of WPC some customers need.
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I purchased this board some time ago and finally am done with my portable 2.1 stystem 
However I'm a bit confused about how to configure the DSP chip now..
So I'd like to have 2 speakers running in stereo L+R and 1 subwoofer.
I saw in early versions this was not supported, however I'm wondering if this is still not possible? I downloaded v1.1.4 of the programmer.
If this works, please share a screenshot!
However I'm a bit confused about how to configure the DSP chip now..
So I'd like to have 2 speakers running in stereo L+R and 1 subwoofer.
I saw in early versions this was not supported, however I'm wondering if this is still not possible? I downloaded v1.1.4 of the programmer.
If this works, please share a screenshot!
@defo
The zip needs to be extracted for the drivers to be detected!
If you still have any issues, send me a mail/dm and I will try to get it solved.
And yes, BT tones go via the DSP.
@Shock
It is still in the works. The next round of the beta-release will support it and is released next weekend. I received your email and added you to the release group.
The zip needs to be extracted for the drivers to be detected!
If you still have any issues, send me a mail/dm and I will try to get it solved.
And yes, BT tones go via the DSP.
@Shock
It is still in the works. The next round of the beta-release will support it and is released next weekend. I received your email and added you to the release group.
I'm thinking your amplifier might be a good option to try for the bass section of an open baffle project. I've downloaded the config tool and it's easy to use and offers some good options but I have some questions.
If the amplifier is configured as per the attached image;
Thanks
If the amplifier is configured as per the attached image;
- The diagram isn't entirely clear but I guess I would connect the loudspeaker units across A+/B+ and C+/D+?
- If I have the previous point correct, does it imply that I would only be using half of each amplifier chip or are A-/B- and C-/D- 'bridged'?
- What max. power output would the pictured configuration deliver, assuming a 24V supply and 8ohm loudspeaker units?
Thanks
Attachments
I just received 2 modules for 2x 3-way systems in a boat, but want operate them as 1 unit.
Can I connect all volum- push/encoder wires to both boards in parallel?
Same with the TWS button?
Anything other to consider?
Could the delay be extended to 10ms? or so?
Many thanks in advance. It looks like a great product!
@nautibuoy
As seen on the pictureis indeed how it should be connected.
Its called a PBTL setup, and its different from bridging, because the amp is already brigded internally.
This allows the amp to deliver twice the current in the speaker, so it will only give you more output if you put another speaker parallel or use another type of speaker with half the impedance.
@beemerk1
The volume control is done locally, so unless you have a fixed volume and handle volume control via the BT device, you need to connect both volume knob cables.
The delay is fixed, I do not know to what value exactly, but its probably around 20ms or so.
As seen on the pictureis indeed how it should be connected.
Its called a PBTL setup, and its different from bridging, because the amp is already brigded internally.
This allows the amp to deliver twice the current in the speaker, so it will only give you more output if you put another speaker parallel or use another type of speaker with half the impedance.
@beemerk1
The volume control is done locally, so unless you have a fixed volume and handle volume control via the BT device, you need to connect both volume knob cables.
The delay is fixed, I do not know to what value exactly, but its probably around 20ms or so.
Hi,
Looks like you decided to join the gang. I received mine a few weeks ago but I have been so busy lately....
Just waiting for opportunity...
Oon