to R-K Ronningstad #556-558
Hello R-K Ronningstad,
your build loooks really good! Nice work! 😀
I also used 100nF and 47nf caps to get to the 80-100Hz crossover frequency.
But there is still some work remaining on this...🙄
My other 6-24XO is playing at the moment (crossover frequency 2500 Hz)
driving the M2X for mid/high and the 50W-SE-Schade-amp driving midwoofer in my 2-way - speakers.
Sounds really good!
Enjoy your first listening session
Greets
Dirk
Hello R-K Ronningstad,
your build loooks really good! Nice work! 😀
I also used 100nF and 47nf caps to get to the 80-100Hz crossover frequency.
But there is still some work remaining on this...🙄
My other 6-24XO is playing at the moment (crossover frequency 2500 Hz)
driving the M2X for mid/high and the 50W-SE-Schade-amp driving midwoofer in my 2-way - speakers.
Sounds really good!
Enjoy your first listening session
Greets
Dirk
Thank you. BTW I “moved” the earlier setting of levels over from to new 6-24XO. The earlier settings was of course the level control setting on the SVS SB-2000. That was tuned by ear.I had no other HP-filter than the built-in in my Parasound 2125. Many people recommend running the main speakers full range, but in my case the subwoofers are also used to protect the Quads from LF besides giving some extra “slam” down there.
to R-K Ronningstad #562
I also have ESLs (Audiostatic ES-300R) and I use an active crossover set
to 80 - 90 Hz, that they do not have to make 'the hard work' in the bass region.
The foil would have to swing far out - it is possible. My ESLs are fullrange.
But it sounds better (in my opinion) to give them some 'help' from a subwoofer.🙄 And they can play louder....
Greets
Dirk
I also have ESLs (Audiostatic ES-300R) and I use an active crossover set
to 80 - 90 Hz, that they do not have to make 'the hard work' in the bass region.
The foil would have to swing far out - it is possible. My ESLs are fullrange.
But it sounds better (in my opinion) to give them some 'help' from a subwoofer.🙄 And they can play louder....
Greets
Dirk
Correct. This is my experience also. I could maybe dropped the crossover frequency even more. But that is the beauty of the 6-24XO, the fantastic flexibility. I should really start with the first order configuration to see and hear. It might not be given that LR4 gives any more “nirvana” than e.g. first order.
Why is WIMA not "good enough" for high end audio when many industries use them for demanding applications?
https://www.wima.de/wp-content/uploads/media/WIMA-Audio.pdf
It seems the crossover boards are well suited for those to be used instead of some "oversized" high voltage types?
Just don't buy WIMA at Ebay etc. where they can be fake.....
https://www.wima.de/wp-content/uploads/media/WIMA-Audio.pdf
It seems the crossover boards are well suited for those to be used instead of some "oversized" high voltage types?
Just don't buy WIMA at Ebay etc. where they can be fake.....
to Meper #565
Hello Meper,
I hope you are fine? 😀
I wouldn't say that MIPAs aren't good enough. I used them in many of my builds with very good results.
Also in my first 6-24 XO-build. Sounds fantastic.
This time I tried some Mundorf-caps in the filters. But I am not sure if this will be a big difference? The price is different! 😱
And you know - cap discussion is endless....🙄
Greets
from the south of Germany
Dirk
Hello Meper,
I hope you are fine? 😀
I wouldn't say that MIPAs aren't good enough. I used them in many of my builds with very good results.
Also in my first 6-24 XO-build. Sounds fantastic.
This time I tried some Mundorf-caps in the filters. But I am not sure if this will be a big difference? The price is different! 😱
And you know - cap discussion is endless....🙄
Greets
from the south of Germany
Dirk
Regarding Wima Capacitors:
Why not Wima FKP 2 and FKP 3 Polypropylene Film and Foil for the filter section. I have come to believe that film and foil is a little better than metallized Polypropylene. In the small capacitance values, price between the two is not very different.
I used the film and foils in my build.
Why not Wima FKP 2 and FKP 3 Polypropylene Film and Foil for the filter section. I have come to believe that film and foil is a little better than metallized Polypropylene. In the small capacitance values, price between the two is not very different.
I used the film and foils in my build.
For me, I take a pragmatic approach, in this case I purchased the 47 nF and 100 nF that fitted the 6-24XO PCB, and those where Kemet Polyphenylene Sulfide (PPS), Metallized Radial from DigiKey. For the in- and output coupling capacitors I used what I have had around for decades. I just did not want to use the polarized ones, even if the design gives them a bias voltage.
But I also find life to short to listen after tiny differences.
But I also find life to short to listen after tiny differences.
Yes, thank you! I am fine and you are also it seems 🙂
In the industry Wima has a very good reputation to be some of the best quality you can get.....and they are German also....so must be good?
Products overview - WIMA – Competence in Capacitors
....but if you want to pay more for them......you can get them in black color and with "audio" printed on them.....everything black is good for audio?
Wima 1.5uF 250v Black Box 5%
It seems "audio" branded electronics is the highest grade of quality you can get! .....or it is made only to "fool" some people to pay more.....?
Film and foil is as good as it gets. Where are these Wima Black Box capacitors made? They are not on Wima's homepage.
The price was in Indian rupi. Equivalent to some €2 - 3. (MePer’s link.) Not too expensive either. But I see no reason to go bananas with caps.
to Meper #569
I am absolutely sure, that the WIMA FKPs or MKPs are absolutely great
caps! I like to use FKPs with a value tolerance of +-2.5% or +-5% (if available in that value I need) in filters.
I never bought / tried the black ones. And I didn't know them. Perhaps that 'black jacket' is painted by hand? 😕 This would explain the extra-costs.... I am joking! 😀
greets
Dirk
I am absolutely sure, that the WIMA FKPs or MKPs are absolutely great
caps! I like to use FKPs with a value tolerance of +-2.5% or +-5% (if available in that value I need) in filters.
I never bought / tried the black ones. And I didn't know them. Perhaps that 'black jacket' is painted by hand? 😕 This would explain the extra-costs.... I am joking! 😀
greets
Dirk
It could be a mail to WIMA to ask about them. They are not among their normal product range it seems. Maybe a special order from a dealer with some speciel requirements like color and "audio" brand 🙂
Maybe it is the 5% tolerance if this is not a "WIMA" standard.
Maybe it is the 5% tolerance if this is not a "WIMA" standard.
There are more "Black box" WIMAs sold here:
WIMA_Capacitor_Analog Metric - DIY Audio Kit Developer
...seems to be physical large compared to the nominel value.
I have written to WIMA and asked about technical details and what they correspond to in the "red" series. They make really many types of caps for different purposes.
WIMA_Capacitor_Analog Metric - DIY Audio Kit Developer
...seems to be physical large compared to the nominel value.
I have written to WIMA and asked about technical details and what they correspond to in the "red" series. They make really many types of caps for different purposes.
OK, let us see what they answer if they have a substitute in normal range of caps. Maybe I will get samples.......probably not..... 🙂
Hi all
I wonder if I can ask for some help / advice. I am in the process of ordering the parts etc for this X-over to replace my older OpAmp based one. This is being used to drive a combination of Quad 306 (treble) and Quad 405 (bass) amps into home made KLS9 (World Audio Design) speakers. These floor-standers use Audax TM025M0 tweeters and Audax HM210ZO as the main drivers. The original passive X-over in the design used first order in both the low and high pass at 3kHz. The drive units are displaced horizontally by 30 mm (90deg phase shift at 3kHz) and the tweeter is wired out of phase. I gather that this passive has been criticised by some who have built the speakers in the past...
My current active X-over is 2nd order.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to the best place to start for my new unit and the capacitor values to order initially? I am playing around with the on-line calculator, but other software suggestions are a bit limited as I am using Mac computers with no access ATM to windows base. Sorry if this sounds like I want someone to do all the work for me: I just want a pointer in the right direction. I'm a bit new to filter design!
Many thanks for any comments
Jonathan
I wonder if I can ask for some help / advice. I am in the process of ordering the parts etc for this X-over to replace my older OpAmp based one. This is being used to drive a combination of Quad 306 (treble) and Quad 405 (bass) amps into home made KLS9 (World Audio Design) speakers. These floor-standers use Audax TM025M0 tweeters and Audax HM210ZO as the main drivers. The original passive X-over in the design used first order in both the low and high pass at 3kHz. The drive units are displaced horizontally by 30 mm (90deg phase shift at 3kHz) and the tweeter is wired out of phase. I gather that this passive has been criticised by some who have built the speakers in the past...
My current active X-over is 2nd order.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to the best place to start for my new unit and the capacitor values to order initially? I am playing around with the on-line calculator, but other software suggestions are a bit limited as I am using Mac computers with no access ATM to windows base. Sorry if this sounds like I want someone to do all the work for me: I just want a pointer in the right direction. I'm a bit new to filter design!
Many thanks for any comments
Jonathan
I would have started with something like 1.5 nF and 3 nF capacitors. And the 11k250 and 22k5 resistors from Michael’s XO Calc. Keeping the 5 nF and 10 nF capacitors you will need to lower the resistors to below 10k. (I might also like to check with Linkwitz-Riley Filter Calculator, 2-Way, 4th Order)
6-24XO for subwoofers
Hello 6-24XO-builders,
a member of this forum sent me a pm asking for the values of Rs and Cs in my
6-24XO build for subwoofer use (crossover frequency around 80 - 100Hz).
I post you my first results I've got, using Mike Rothachers software calculator.
The simulation is done for a 24dB/oct slope.
These values are a first result. I didn't test it by listening nor have any 'real life' -measurements been done. I can't tell you if this works with your loudspeakers!😕
Any hints from other builders are welcome! 😉
Greets
Dirk 😀
Hello 6-24XO-builders,
a member of this forum sent me a pm asking for the values of Rs and Cs in my
6-24XO build for subwoofer use (crossover frequency around 80 - 100Hz).
I post you my first results I've got, using Mike Rothachers software calculator.
The simulation is done for a 24dB/oct slope.
These values are a first result. I didn't test it by listening nor have any 'real life' -measurements been done. I can't tell you if this works with your loudspeakers!😕
Any hints from other builders are welcome! 😉
Greets
Dirk 😀
