Quick question; I'm thinking of doing a 15" build with the above horn, or something like it. I want to WAF it as hard as is practical, because whilst the new other half is quite prepared to let me build whatever I want, I don't want to look at an ugly speaker! How thick can you get away with painting the horn before it is detrimental to performance?

Cheers,

Russ

Brian Bell Chipamp.com Aleph Boards + Power Supply Board. They have been in my parts drawer for many years...

How about $40 shipped CONUS?

Please ban the term "Chi Fi" from the forum. It is an example of cultural racism. I know that not all people, including forum management may be aware of modern forms of racism, so I will spell it out. Chi Fi is cultural racism because it's very usage implies that "Hi Fi" is the normal state, and "Chi Fi" is the non-normal state, and of course normal is therefore not Chinese. Research racism yourself if you do not accept this.

As promised a while back, I simulated the NAD 3020's line stage. Total output noise comes out to ~3.7 µV A-wtd. Including the 23.7 dB power amp gain of this 25 wpc amplifier that brings this up to ~56 µV, this means a total (best-case) SNR of about 108 dB(A), slightly short of the claimed 110 but still very respectable for a little old amplifier.

With the (20k) volume pot turned down for a 2.83 V output, I'm getting ~111 µV(A), so about 88 dB re: 1 W / 8 ohms. Not too shabby at all.
Turned down further for 50 mW / 4 ohms, it's 68 µV(A), so about a 76 dB score on that.
There used to be amplifiers with even lower noise despite substantially higher output power, but those used a two-stage volume control (4-gang volume pots).

LTspice schematic attached.

Try and guess where you'd go to attack this Castle, and then post one of your own favourite or strangest places.

Okay, so after this thread and warning shot..

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/sol...-psx-blows-fuse-mains-plug-2.html#post6301599

time to replace the 4 x 15,000 uF 63 volts in the PSX.

Looks a simple job, just 4 caps to desolder and resolder.

So which replacement caps are suitable based on uF, voltage and sizing.

I just quickly Googled, 15,000 uF, 63 volts - I think that's what they are...

and found these on Mouser...

LKG1J153MKNF Nichicon | Mouser United Kingdom

Are these any good ?

and recommendations ?

Hi All,

I have a CTS2000 that I am working on. There are couple of SMD ferrite beads fried but I can't seem to find a reference to what their value should be. On the Schematic drawing 134274-1 they are listed as FB915, FB914 and FB913. Does anyone have any idea what they might be?

Thanks

Hello,
I need the schematic diagram of the 35 watts amp PA-935 from Inter-M or Inkel
It's the version with all screw terminals at the backpanel(Not PA-935N)
I downloaded a diagram from the WWW, but thats hard to read.
The diagram is in the original manual, but I don't have one.
Who helps?

I just got the edict from my wife that Alexa is creeping her out, and that I need to find a different solution. I also got permission to spend money!😀


I'm looking to setup a locally hosted smart home assistant, and wanted some recommendations on small (<=3"), inexpensive (<$15) speakers of reasonable volume, and that are clear enough for the synthesized voice. It would also be nice if the overall depth was somewhat shallow.


I've used the FE85 in the past (currently listening to them now actually), but they need a (relatively) big, sealed, enclosure to sound good. I plan to 3d print the enclosure, but I don't think I can get away with sealed since I'm gonna put a rpi and microphone array inside. Some of the neodynium speakers from Dayton Audio seem like a good match, but I'm not sure if they are any good.



For the amp I plan to use this TDA2822M based amp from parts express: TDA2822M Low Voltage Stereo 2 x 1W Audio Amplifier Board (although I may not actually need the analog volume control if I can do that digitally). I know its <$5, and I will not be using this for playing music; are there any fatal flaws that would prevent me from using this amp?


Thanks all!

Split from http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/68301-my-morel-mtm-project-6.html#post4796981

I have a mw144 with 30s in a transmission line. The cab is near enough the ipl M3
link: IPL M3TL mk3 Transmission Line

I think it's 8 years since I first posted, looking for help. I think I had probably been at it 8 years then. On and off.

They are OK, with a 2nd order about 2.8khz. It's nothing special though and I have taken many db away from the 30s to improve things. Leaving the tops about as loud as the bass, but a hump between 500hz and 1khz making them sing more than dance. I like dance.

Time change and so have my hobbies. It's electric bikes now. I would like to try some different crossovers though. Just not design them. Are there any designs about that are polished enough to copy with reasonable success?

I am combining a 700AS2 and a 200AS2 in the same chassis. I want to use the the 700AS2`s 12v trigger function to bring it out of standby. The problem is that the 200AS2 is normally on, and can only be put in standby with a 5v signal.

Would it be possible to connect the standby led output from the 700AS2 to the standby input on the 200AS2? It requires 2.8V on a 20kohm load to trigger.

I have attached the datasheets for both.

I have an earphone that I often use while working. The single driver allows me to listen to music yet still hear and converse with coworkers and customers. Somehow the outer jacket of the cable got abraded, exposing the inner wires and the ground shield.
I lucked out and found that dipping the worn section into a can of "As Seen on TV" Flex Seal and hanging it to dry is the most perfect repair that a person could hope for.

Hi friends,

I want to go with a mw16p+tw29r sealed 2 way, and I want to add some bass.

1st option The kairos 3way module featuring sb29nrx woofer per channel

2nd option powered subwoofer, mono peerless xls with passive radiator going really low and tight.

Realised I posted this query in the wrong place.

Title should be repair, upgrade or replace amp boards.


The darlingtons (mj11015/6)on my Virtuoso power amp have failed and I'm considering replacing the amp boards for something more modern and better than the Virtuoso. It's an old design by Graham Nalty in ETI with loads of esoteric components, holco h8 and h2 resistors, Mat02 (ssm2201) transistor pairs, wonder caps. I've added schottky diodes, silver wire and kimber cable etc.

The power rails are +-56v dc with a separate regulated supply for the low power gain stages.

To put it into context, it's current build it is better than a rotel rb-991(more air and detail) and recently caused a friend to upgrade his Naim 140s. I haven't had the chance to compare it with anything else recently. My friend was supposed to bring his naim 250? over but covid got in the way....plus I blew my amp up

Alternatively I could consider alternative better darlingtons or mosfets (the amp was also designed to allow mosfets RFM10N15/P15 to be used with the removal of some parts and adding gate resistors.)
I was looking at faster darlingtons or the exicon mosfets but to tell the truth I have little idea on what other changes to ensure that they will work.

It also needs to be able to drive my Martin Logan Sequel IIs and handle all genres of music from classical, folk, blues to rock as I listen to all good music irrespective of "designation"!

Pre-amp is Versatile LDR designed by Rudi_Ratio who kindly posted his design and organised a group buy on this forum. Sounds Great!! Thanks also to George who did the groundwork for LDR preamps.



Any advice or suggestions appreciated.

Hi All,

I have a CTS2000 that I am working on. There are couple of SMD fuses fried but I can't seem to find a reference to what their value should be. On the Schematic drawing 134274-1 they are listed as FB915, FB914 and FB913. Does anyone have any idea what they might be?

Thanks

I am using PSUD2 to design a PSU using 5AR4 rectifier.

I think I used too much capacitance, but it can't be helped. During the first second it throws a warning about the IFRM of the rectifier is exceeded.

I'd imagine the rectifier tube isn't warmed up yet at that point and shouldn't be conducting much. Do I need to pay attention to the warning?

Or do I need an inrush current limiter?

Hi

I would like to build a pair of low wattage monoblocks using Hashimoto, Audio Note, Tango, etc. transformers like the ones in the attached photos.

Are there any projects available?

Cheers,

During the last days, I was reading a lot of posts about paraline, combining compression drivers, directional arrays, Unity/Synergy horns and so on.

I wonder if there is a way to integrate for example JBL2445 or similar driver that is lacking in the HF with some sort of device to have point source behavior at a relatively short distance - say 1.5 m and further. If possible, it would be nice not to use digital delay between the two units, but can be used if necessary. I would like to crossover the JBL2445 at around 600 Hz

The best I have tested so far was to use two identical horns for the JBL2445 and HF compression driver with an adapter to match the time of flight to the listening position and to integrate well at least in the horizontal plane. This is as good as I can do. Would it be worth trying to pursue alternative ways?

The tools available include a 3D printer and DSP for delays, crossover and EQ.

I see some potential ways to try out.

1) use two paralines to combine the 2" and HF drivers into a conical horn. One shorter, one longer, maybe trying to steer the wavefronts a bit towards each other. The path lengths could be matched by using phase plugs going into the throat of the 2445 and HF driver to keep the conical expansion as close to the throat as possible, the HF driver would include an adapter for the correct distance.

2) use one paraline with both drivers - matching the pathlengths mechanically should be possible as well.

3) Use Danley throat combiner-like device to use both in one horn. Or any other similar device to make the drivers combine into one horn. The HF driver can be again made to have a 2" exit and same distance from membrane to throat as the 2445

4) "Inverted" Unity - to have the 2" driver in the center and multiple HF feeding into the horn. Most probably a very bad idea.

5) Place a small HF with horn inside the MF horn hidden in a phase plug like device and use delay to match the path lenghts.

6) Similar to 3, but Unity style - the 2445 would be fed to the horn through the side of the HF throat adapter at the correct place.

7) Anything else? Including that to have two identical horns is as good as it can get? And that a conventional unity is better in this regard...I would really like to use the 2445s.

All of above should be possible to at least prototype with a 3D printer, so any guidelines would be appreciated - e.g. rule out the really bad ideas. The 2445 can be equalized up to some 8 kHz without sounding too bad. The desired coverage pattern would be 90Hx60V or smaller, as low as possible. In this case, space occupied by the horn(s) is not a concern.

Working on some “450w” kits. I figured the rating was for 4 ohms, with the OP and drivers rated at 230vce, I stuck it into a +/-90vdc psu. Tested and got about 350w/8e and 550w/4e at clipping. The kit survived, one of them is in service running the mid woofers in my HT system for a couple of years now. As I look around to make a few mods in another one of these, I notice the input stage comprises mainly of 2sa970 and 2sc2240’s. If memory serves these are 120vce devices.... and they are subject to the full 90vdc on their emitters. I am wondering if I should change them out for something in the higher voltage range or leave them in there.

Any suggestions?

I just finished building an amplifier with a preamp inside. Im splitting the AC input into the amplifier (directly) and the preamp + input selector, through an AC/DC converter.ñ, the input selector has a buck converter to go down to 5v (from 24v) Everything with star ground at main.

What I find weird is that if I touch with the black line the + of the preamp (24v) and the + of the input selector (5v), it shows continuity. The same if I touch every other point (except for the AC wired). Is this expected?

Hi all

I've just acquired a Croft Series 7 power amp to drive my RX5 speakers. Preamp is also Croft.

It sounds pretty good but I sort of thnk the RX5 isn't the bestmatch - fun but occasionally closed in a bit

I'd be grateful for suggestions of speaker kits which may go well - IPL acoustics trasnmission lines or perhaps Wilsmlow Audio or anythig else recomended.

Time short for doing my own cabinets from scratch!

Thanks all
Listen to almost anything but lots of choral and organ music.

I bought an ICE Power 500ASP + 500A module and while reading the design manual, I noticed they use a buffer capcitor of 10000uF/150V for (star) ground and Im wondering, what’s the reason for this?

https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/manuals/icepower-asp-series-manual.pdf page 44

They also mention this at page 12
“Adding an optional capacitor on the main DC-bus will significantly increase t150 as evidenced by the numbers given. This can be exploited in subwoofer applications, where it results in improved ability to handle transients”
But cant figure out what does it means

Hello,
It's about an audio codec ADC/DAC CS4272 https://statics.cirrus.com/pubs/proDatasheet/CS4272_F1.pdf I'm trying to put it to work with this USB to I2S module XMOS Multichannel high-quality USB to/from I2S/DSD SPDIF PCB - DIYINHK Schematics are attached, as well as the DIYINHK module requirements. Connections seem quite straightforward. I'm assuming that BCK is the same as SCLK, correct?

The DIYINHK module gets recognized by the PC and the drivers are loaded. But I don't get any sign from CS4272. Even Vref and Vcom stay at 0V. Vcc and Vdd are OK. To my understanding this means power down mode, doesn't it? I tried two chips I had available and both do the same thing. There is some info on CS4272 datasheet page #35 about ADO/CS (pin #13) but my lack of knowledge doesn't help me with this... In my case (copied design) ADO/CS is attached to ground. Do you think this could be the reason?

I realize that remote debugging is too much to ask so, I would appreciate if you could at least verify Cs4272 and DIYINHK module campatibility.

Hi all! I'm new to this site, but during lockdown I have re-kindled my love of HiFi.

Back in 1975 (I was 17) I purchased a pair of KEF Kit 3's and filled my bedroom with 2 large home made cabinets. Marriage and kids came along and we could no longer accommodate the 'beasts'. I kept the drive units and crossovers and the boxes went!!!

45 years later the drive units were dusted off and tested (one B110) dead, the rest fine and the crossovers re-capped.

By chance, a pair of R50 cabinets appeared on the web and transported back to our home France. 2 Manocor AD 135's (to replace the B11's) purchased and everything soldered and screwed together. In total these speakers have cost me less than £150.00 and they blow my socks off! A lovely 'open' soundstage and soft rich bass. I'm hooked!

Hi friends. This my very first post.

First off, I decided to name myself after what I think is the most fascinating amplifier topology I have ever seen - the circlotron. It is a model of simplicity and symmetry. I particularly like it because after drawing the basic circuit about 50 different ways to try and make it look the most logical, I noticed that if you place 2 loudspeaker loads on it, 1 between the sources and the other between the drains, it can be drawn as a perfect tetrahedron! As far as I was concerned that was the icing on the cake for a most aesthetically pleasing ampifier.

Now that I have firmly established my reputation as a nutcase, uh, sorry, *enthusiast*, Let me talk amplifiers. I discovered this circuit only a few months ago, and as it turns out I have quite a few large collection of hexfet switching type mosfets laying around at home. The last mosfet type amp I built was the Electronics Today one, back in about March '81 I think. It used complementary fets and I never felt comfortable with P-channel devices. They always seemed the poor cousin (or brother/sister?) to the N-channel. Then I found the circlotron cct that would let me use both N-channel devices. Coolarama! I wound up a driver transformer, picked a matched pair and away it went.

I started a thread on Google Groups that I will part copy and paste to here, telling of my adventures with this cct if anyone is interested. One unusual thing I did was to use a ferrite core tranny normally used in a switchmode supply for the driver tranny. With sufficient turns on the core it works really well, contrary to the advice I was given by others.

Anyway, I think the topology is the greatest thing since sliced bread. I hope there are others out there that are perceptive enough ;-) to also see what is so great about this cct.

Regards. GP.

Hi there!

I'm having some trouble and thought this might be the best place the check. I've left VMs and emails for anybody that might be in the know but haven't heard anything back.

I have the Focal Chorus 836V

https://www.focal.com/sites/www.foc...rus-800-v-enceintes-colonnes-chorus-836-v.jpg

with:

http://www.easylounge.com/Content/photos/f/o/foctweeter-tnc,33223-1200px.jpg

I got these speakers recently from a family member that drove them with a Emotiva amplifier without issue. As soon as I plugged them into my Onkyo 805 it blew the crossovers and the the tweeter/midrange on the one side. I assumed it was only the crossovers so I had them redone but of course the drivers are still not working despite having all the blown up parts in the crossovers replaced. I have a centre channel with the same mid and tweeter that I'm not using so I'm trying to use the components from that. The mid is easy enough but how do you remove this tweeter that seems to be glued on? Frustrating!

Hello, the last time i had a few difficultys with this type of amps.

Repaired the outputs... On some amps, it was also neccesary to change the irs 21844s.. Checked everything, complete new batch of mosfets. All parts from mouser. Tested the gate-source with a cap, everything looks fine. Final check of the amps also ok.. Customer happy, everything works, even under full load for a longer time... After a few days, or a week, the amp goes in protect, with small load, or only on, with no music playing..


Found two output mosfest short, one highside, one low side from the same bank. Couldnt find anything wrong...


Is there something, what i dont see, maybe somebody can give me a hint, where or what to look...

Hello

Anyone would have the schematic of the hitachi ha-410 integrated power amp ?

Thank you

Gaetan

Evening all, I was searching for Kaneda and came across this site. Mods, if illegal, plse remove.🙂
https://sites.google.com/site/franc...system/app/templates/print/&showPrintDialog=1

Hi,

After the great succes of my last project and the commercial interest for selling them. I thought I should design an ultimate reference system to dream off using the same philosophy to keep myself busy and just for fun. It will be a 4-way system plus subwoofer towers. The subwoofer towers will consist of eight woofers per tower mounted on the sides, in opposite directions to eliminate vibrations. The question is, what would be the ultimate woofer? The Scan-Speak Revelator 32W T00 or T01, or the one of the 15" Acoustic Elegance woofers?

Would like to hear your thoughts

Hi Guys,

I am building a mini line array with 12 midbass drivers and a 6 inch ribbon centered be tweeeen the midbasses.

My question is what are my best options for wiring, they are 4 ohm I was thinking of keeping them 4ohm.

How would I wire 12 of them and keep the original impedance of 4 ohms?

new to the forum, but thought this a great place to sound out a potential project. After looking for a fun and nice sounding horn loaded speaker for a 2 channel set up, I've started thinking of building my own speakers. I've built up several guitars and guitar amps, but never any HIFI projects. I really like the idea of making something mine. I've been looking at all these great looking cinema speakers lately from JBL and Klipsch. Would love to have those in my listening room, but they just seem overkill. So I have a line on the some Altec Flamenco's, with some beat up cabs. Started thinking about building up new cab's for the woofer and mounting the horn on top like I see on the cinema speakers I mentioned.

I've done some searching for plans, that's how I ended up here. But, can't say I found anything specific to what I am looking to do. Hoping some or a few here can point me in the right direction as to the necessary considerations for such a project. Who knows, maybe I'm getting way ahead of myself, nothing is ever as easy as it seems. But I always looking for my next project.

Check this YouTube video out. The WW2 "vintage" dynamometer uses at least 2 tubes.

Anybody with solid info. please comment in the video and post here.

TIA.

Hi,

Looked at couple of youtube videos of "diy projector", whose links are given below, and just thinking about it.
Any idea regarding it??
Can we source the components locally (Chennai or India)?


YouTube

YouTube

After a month of tweaking, I am now very happy with my results. Thank you guys from these forum who unselfishly shared their knowledge and experience.

aou 8.4 in panel
unsplit fresnel lens
250w hqi-ts osram
condenser
soup laddle reflector
gilkson projection lens

I have seen this on the web. Cheap, so I ordered it.
Desoldering Suction Pump
– Finggywow

Hi Gurus,

A friend of mine as a venerable ONKYO DX-G10 Grand Integra CD player (European name for the Onkyo 6990 Grand Integra).
The belt is dead and therefore there is a problem when trying to open or close the tray.

By searching on different web information sources (CD-Player-DAC-Transport List) it seems that this CD player is equipped with a Sony BU-1E / KSS-190A mechanism.

I would like to know if the Sony BU-1E and KSS-190A are exactly the same mechanisms, in order to know the replacement belt that I should order ?

I have found replacement belts for the KSS-190A on the internet but nothing related to the Sony BU-1E ...

Thanks

Folks:

It's taken me a while to figure out the source of the problem, but the WiFi powerline extender devices (TP-LINK AV500) that I am using to link my server to the house router create audible "popping" and "scratching" sounds when I listen to my turntable. The noises created by the powerline extender are inaudible when I listen to my server or FM radio. There are two separate 15A circuits powering my front-end equipment and the powerline extender and turntable are on separate circuits.

I cannot snake an ethernet cable from my router (third floor) to the server (basement), and the powerline extender otherwise works flawlessly. Does anyone have any idea how to eliminate or filter out the noise?

Regards,
Scott

Hi all,

Here's my latest creation, the F5/Mezmerize integrated amp. I needed something to replace my old but trusty Denon 3802 HTR that would do justice to the Pearl 2 I built a year ago.

6L6 provided a ton of guidance as I worked my way through this four month plus project. I'm thrilled with the result -- it's like listening to my music collection for the first time all over again.

Thanks to DIY Audio for making these boards and case available, and to Nelson for the fantastic designs.

Hi all
Amp came with complaint no audio. Visual checking found the jumper connecting two high side fets had burn the board.

I changed the two irs21844s ic and resoldered the connection and removed the bad fets. Now amp going into protect. I removed the main rectifiers and it is still going into protect. All output fets out of board.

My Motu 896 Mk III died during the power outage from the tropical storm. When we got power back, it would no longer power up.

I've replaced the Fairchild Power Switch, recapped the PSU, as well as replaced the optically isolated error amplifier. The diodes all measure good. The line fuse is good. All resistors measure within a couple percent of marked values. Nothing burnt.

I've even tried disconnecting the load and starting the PSU, but only the reservoir cap charges up to 160V.

Basically, I've replaced everything but the transformer. It's starting to seem like that is the failure point, but without schematic, I'm working in the dark and don't know what windings correspond to what pins.

I've asked MOTU if they'd sell me a new PSU module, but they said no.

I may have to give up on repairing this.

The voltage requirements are a little more than basic.. 3.3, 3.8, 5, -8, +8 volt rails. Almost could use a computer power supply, but don't know if running the 3.8 at 3.3 would pose a problem.

hi all

I have this amplifier p600.2.

It is having 4v from terminal ground to the rca ground. Due to that I think the relay is not coming on and amp even though comes on led remains in protection. Once relay is removed protection goes and has good output on the relay points. Pictures attached.

Disassembling a retired CD player I recovered some chips with one of them being TDA1311 which is a DAC. It is an eight pin dual in line chip with seven active terminals and one not used. Browsing its data sheet I found there is a striking similarity to DACs discussed in these forums. My pertinent question: Is this chip still useable, for instance, to implement a USB DAC?

TDA1311 datasheet

I haven’t done any audio stuff in several years so I’m cleaning out my garage of all my stuff. Would like to sell or trade it for a pair of nice bookshelf speakers.

I have:
- big aluminum heat sinks (2Ea x 30” long x 6” x 1 3/4”)
- 2 toroid transformers. I forget the specs but I think they were right sized for 150W amps... but they were for 240V primaries...
- 2 x 300W DIY SKA amp
- 3 way Biamp speakers (don’t remember the drivers, but they were good quality - not premium, but good. 1” dome, 4” and 12”.
- RL 24 dB active crossover (for the speakers)
- peavey CS 800 amp

I probably have some other stuff that I’m not thinking of at the moment. Ideally, someone local comes and takes it all.

I'm getting a parts list together for a headphone amp that I'm working on and would like to incorporate an audio source ground loop isolator using a couple of matching transformers. The circuit is simple enough but I'm seeing several different impedance recommendations. Generally 600 and 10k ohm. They have some reasonable wide frequency response models over at Edcor in several impedances. Any of you done this? Can anyone recommend a proper impedance for use with a tube amp? I'm using a 6DJ8 on the input and I don't know what input impedance it likes to see (or how to calculate it for that matter.) It'll take months for them to get here so if I find out I ordered the wrong transformers, I'm probably gonna break down and cry... I'm also hoping that this will solve a little problem I've run into. My phone has no headphone jack. I have gotten two of those USB-C to headphone dongles with the integrated DACs in them and they positively REFUSE to turn on unless actual headphones are plugged into them. No aux input works, either on my headphone amp or any other commercial equipment that I've tried. I'm assuming that the DACs in those things are looking for an inductive load before turning on to protect themselves or something. I'm just not sure. Anybody have experience with that?

Using my Kelvin micro-ohmeter which which I believe bypasses contact resistance in it's measurements, I measured a 16 gauge 312 cm wire (loopback) at .096 ohms (pretty close to what would be expected). Measuring with Limp as a loop back, it came to .51 ohms; presumptively due to contact resistance inclusion of .414 ohms. So, in setting the Cable Compensation Resistance in LIMP, I am wondering if I should include the contact resistance or not as contact resistance will exist in any design?

I have designed many systems with outcomes that I have been pretty pleased with but I never really thought about this before.

Isn’t there a risk of voice coil rubbing in the Alpair 5.3 since there isn’t a spider?

Hello everyone! So I have started to build Troels's SBA-941 (SBA-941). I have cabinets almost done and now I'm ready to order drivers and crossover parts.

Now the hard part is to decide how far up I want to go with crossover and driver options (SBA-941).

What are your opinions on how big improvements there are when moving to better caps etc? This is my first diy build so I have no idea how big differences in sound we are talking here because price goes up quite steep with these upgrades. I have the cash to layout for these if it's significant improvement.

1. SBA 941 - 3-Way Classic - TW29RN-B - Alumen Z - Silver Z + Drivers 1654 €
2. SBA 941 - 3-Way Classic - TW29BN-B - Beryllium - Alumen Z - Silver Z + Drivers 2079 € (+425 € to base version)
3. SBA 941 - 3-Way Classic - TW29BN-B - Beryllium - Ultimate version + Drivers 2659 € (+1005 € to base version)



Second question is what kind of equipment I should be looking to get most out of these. I'm aiming for music first but I'm also going to get surround channels for movies/tv. Currently I'm thinking of getting some AVR with preouts and suitable amp for SBA941.

And question number two leads us to my next build project. Any recommendations for center? For surrounds I'm probably going with some commercial speakers.

I found a very dirty pair of NHT VT1.2's at the local goodwill type store for $50. I picked them up and had to replace a couple of crossover capacitors to get them sounding wonderful again! I was really shocked how good they still sound. All four 4" woofers appear to have had their 1.5" paper dust caps "fingered" and pulled back out multiple times. They are not ripped but look horrible with permanent wrinkles/divots. They can't be "fixed. So I ordered new 1.5" paper caps. I started removing the old caps with a fine tipped razor knife. The caps' paper fibers are very loose from all the in/out abuse they've received. The loose fibers mean the caps aren't gonna come off cleanly. There is a remaining fibrous ring where it was glued to the cone. The weight/mass of the paper cap that I removed was very, very light. I'm concerned that some of the fibers from cutting these old caps out will get into the exposed magnet gap/voice coil. Due to the caps' low weight/mass would it be safer to just glue the new caps over the old damaged ones? The other option would be to give that remaining fibrous ring a coating of something like dust cap glue to solidify the fibers, but wouldn't that add as much weight/mass as just leaving the old caps under the new caps. Btw, not replacing the caps is not an option. I want these to look like new again. Luckily the tweeters look perfect and the cabinet cleaned up very well!

Hi All,


I have 2 DACs with the same issue, Orelle DA-180 and Maverick audio Tubemagic D1, when I use the optical or coaxial inputs and switch between tracks in my audio streamer I get a "hiss" noise in my speakers.
While using the Orelle DAC there is this noise then 3 seconds silence and then I can hear the muting relay clicks and then music, in the Maverick audio DAC there is this noise then relay click and music, there is no silence like in the Orelle.
There is no noise when I'm using the USB input in the Maverick audio DAC or using an external USB to toslink/spdif converter.
Unfortunately I don't have the DACs schematics and cannot find one.
Does anyone have an idea what can be the cause for it or what components on the PCB controls the muting relay response speed? it feels like the relay doesn't respond fast enough to the muting signal.


Thanks

When I got the amp the first thing I found was a film cap burned apart at I think C112 which is connected between the two speaker terminals. I have replaced it with a temporary cap until I troubleshoot it a little more.

When I attempt to power the amp up through current limiting resistors, the only thing I find out of place on the 494 is pin 4 is above 3.5V and of course pin 9 and 10 are off.

If I adjust my power supply up a bit to ~14.8V to ~15.1V the amp will bounce in and out of protection. The amplifier's power supply will run enough to charge the rail caps to +/- 103V, but it never stays on long enough to get the +/- 15V on the ICs.

I only find a 10K ohm resistor between pin 4 and ground. I decided to take pin to ground bypassing the resistor. Upon powering it up, amp is still in protect, but pin 16 is now at 4.9V and pin 13, 14, 15 are now at 1.5V.

So something is dragging the 5V regulator down now before jumping the resistor it was 5V.

I think the 494 is damaged or is it still something else because pin 16 is now so high? It was ~2.9V before jumping pin 4 to ground.

Hi guys

Is there anyone here that have any experience with sound digital amplifiers.

So,

I'm a Dreamer, thinker and engineer. A theorycrafter if you will.
I like thinking about things, figuring them out into every detail.

Late last year I ran out of projects to fettle with and stumbled upon the Tabaq TL thread.
I read through it a few times. it was interesting how many different drivers that could be used.
it was interesting seeing the Tabaq TL design develop over time and how many people built it.

I liked how easy it was to build, and how well recieved it was and the performance/price ratio.

AFter some careful thinking I started looking at a design based on the Faital Pro 4FE32 8ohm version.
Since it was a 4" driver the design did not need the updated port.

After some fettling I realized that I could fit 4 normal Tabaq TL and one folded on a single sheet of 2440x1220x12mm


See image #1

I contacted a firm which makes furniture and they would cut out my design on their CNC mill. The mill head was 4mm he informed me.
He qouted me the price of 2200SEK to do it using Birch Plywood of BB/B quality. Which he stated was the best quality available. Any subsequent run will probably be cheaper. I can hand out contact details to the company if the original designer approves of it.

Right before I left on my vacation (about a month ago), I got a call to pick up the pieces. They looked good. one or two splinters on the edges.

Me and my dad made them in his workshop. Same workshop where we made the the Frugal Horns MK3.

I've now had them for a a few weeks, trying to break them in using a Volt +D amp.
I've decided on keeping them natural with the only treatment being some sanding using rediculous grit sand paper and a layer of matte uncolored vax oil.

I am rather pleased with both the sound and the the way the look.

Finally, I'd like to thank the creator and all of the people who contributed to the design.



PS, I apologize for the cable hell around my computer. : DS

pos said:

Radian, what you are arguing here has nothing to do with what we "discussed" together above, which was only focused on midbass compression driver, and how a 2" Atlas compression driver could be better in this range than a 4" or 8" more modern (and costly, and with far more R&D behind it) compression driver.

Click to expand...

No this was the battle field you created. You just brought in the JBL 2482
wich neither is better than the modified K55 and is way more expensive to
obtain. What use was this for the discussion at hand.
The reason I introduced the K55 was that many people who have heard the
WE555 on the big WE horns report excellent sonics in the low region which
tells us that this driver is just very good for this kind of application.
I have yet to see any post that rave about the how excellent the JBL does
in the lower than 250hz region.
Dietmar did not specify the input to the modified K55. What he said is that
the the Line Magnetics 555 was not any better on paper, and that he has
cranked the volume up and he did not percieve any distortion or ill effect.
He has probably heard and set up more big horn systems than most dedicated horn lovers.

Here is a pic of the modified K55. Just a Peavey magnet structure glued
on with a little felt cavity attached to the vent hole.
Before is black and after the mod blue line:

After 40+ years my 1,978 Pioneer component amplifier blew up a power supply thyristor along with 2 resistors a couple of weeks ago.

My amp was still using its original pieces so I decided to replace the blown parts, and since I was working on it, I decided to recap the whole circuit with Nichicon Audio grade caps for electrolitics, also I replaced high wattage resistors (1/2, 1 and 2 watts) with Vishay/Dale metal film resistors and also ceramic caps, some of Polypropylene dielectric (the ones I could find) and the rest with c0g/np0 dielectric.

Is there something else you guys recommend doing or replace on my amp? Any suggestions are well appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to read.

Have a great day.


SkyWay

I got some pretty emblematic studio speakers some time ago but never hooked them up. So first they needed some love, cleaning and such. They are 3-way, massive speakers, Urei 813C. So before connecting them to the Bryston 4B NPB, I decided to check the crossovers, look for leaky caps and such. I certainly did not find any clear offender by inspection or individual component testing, so decided to fire them up. The sound was pretty midrangy. The manual did say that the speakers are really sensitive to installation position, that is something to have in mind.

So decided to run a REW test, with the speakers connected, to see what type of curves they have. I am just tapping into the speaker terminals with a sweep. The results are attached. Some wacky curves going on. Tested the second one. Almost the exact same curves.

So questions have arisen: (bear in mind I am just starting to learn about speakers)

First, I suspect my measurement procedure is terribly flawed but,
If not that bad, then:

Are maybe those bumps trying to correct speakers?
Are those bumps normal if a crossover is measured like that?
Maybe crossover health is not that good?

Attached are pics and manuals.

Thank you all!

View attachment 862898Hi all
This is the second crossover I have designed and I think I'm having some trouble. Could someone take a look at my design and give me some advice. Ill also leave the manufacturer frd. and zma. files if you would like to give it a shot. I'm just a beginner and am not looking for really Hi-Fi sound just something to make it sound good. Thanks.

The spec sheets for at least some of the drivers suggest 100 hours at “very low volume.” What does that mean? 60dB? 70dB? That seems a bit vague. Lower? I’m becoming interested in the CHN-50 & Alpair 5.3. (The lack of a spider in the latter is fascinating.)

Picked this up locally. Apparently an amp for an SL-18 subwoofer. But there is nothing out there to show me what it can drive.
Works nicely at low volumes, but I'm wondering if it can handle a low impedance load or whether I need to be a bit careful.
Does anyone know of any doco for SL Audio stuff (archived or not)?

I need to build a power supply for a 15W Hiraga Le Monstre clone (Jims Audio), I have 4 x 52000uf capacitors and a transformer, what else do I need or are there any suitable boards I can buy?

Hi there guys,

I want to build this TWQT. However, as it seems quite difficult to find a pair of Fostex FE 166e, I was asking myself whether the new FF165wk might work here:



I have set myself on a TQWT sporting a 6" drivers due to WAF and space-related issues. Not a very original reason to come up with, I know. I'll be driving them with a 2a3 SE amp. I don't want them to end up stored in the attic next to all my previous building DIY-efforts, so that's why I'm asking you now.

Any suggestions, mods or alternatives very much welcome!

A winter project

Regards,

Vincula

I have 4 sets of x bosoz boards partly populated. I had gotten them from another member and never tested or used them.

$20.00 usd plus shipping
Thanks,
Evan

Pretty different drivers from a design standpoint but both intend to satisfy in a fullrange environment

Anyone challenge the two head to head?..... both are highly regarded and very similiar in price point.

Working Pete Millet Sound Card Interface.
Mu-metal layers in chassis to reduce noise.
Costs around $250-$300 to build

Asking $110 shipped

Hi. New to this great website and new to audio electronics.

I have a Denon DRA 685 receiver that won't get out of protection mode. After I push the power switch, the protection light blinks 8 times and then stays on. I also hear a click which I believer is the power relay. Thats it - no display, no sound,nothing.
Following the recommendation of another website Denon DRA-685, I replaced 2 resistors on the main board (R105 & R106), but that didn't solve the problem.
I am not getting the required "+15V" and "-15V" at test point CN1. I am getting .137V and .567V respectively. This is the same reading I am getting at the power regulator transistors IC1 and IC2.
I am getting the required 6 volts at IC 4.
To make matters worse, the service manual schematics that I downloaded from HiFi Engine are very blurry, thus I can't read the required voltages at different test points.
I am stumped.
Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Hi guys and girls

I'm working on my first project and have come to the speaker build ( going great ) - but have come to a dead stop.

Crossover!

As I have 10 thumbs and I'm not really happy about beginning to build a crossover from scratch - too much can go wrong when I'm doing it.

People are really good at showing why 2 and 3 way pre-build crossovers are crap, and I get it.

But if we look at a simple straight forward oneway crossover, what can go wrong?

https://www.soundimports.eu/en/dayton-audio-6000-lpf-4.html

Can they be used ?
Can you just wire them in series so they will split for bass, mid and tweeter?

My logic says

Crossover 1 splits the signal 2 ways
Crossover 2 takes signal from the first crossover and splits it 2 ways

Crossover1: bass
Crossover 2: Signal to mid and to tweeter

Or is my logic failing me yet again ?

Hi All - I recently came across a pair of Zenith Allegro 3000 speakers at a thrift store. They have (supposedly Fostex) 16 ohm, 10" Alnico woofers and a horn tweeter. I'd read on a few forums that these are very efficient and they ARE much more efficient than my Advents. Does anyone have any specs for these or actually measured them. I'm guessing they might be 96-98 db/w/m. Is that close? I took the backs off, as someone suggested, but I'm wondering if anyone has tried these in a different enclosure. If so what design and dimensions? I'm thinking of eventually building something that's simple (since I'm not much of a carpenter) and is efficient enough for my DIY "budget Bugle" 45 SET that I recently completed. Any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated . . . Charlie

Hey, guys. I have no idea what other sub-forum to post this to but I hope you will forgive me my transgressions if this isn't the right place.

I test loudspeakers and raw drive units. I recently tested a Dyn MW172 8 inch mid/woofer. It's car audio marketed but with this group being so technical I thought you might still appreciate seeing the data/results.

My full review can be found here:
Dyn Audio MW172 Drive Unit Review


And if you're in to watching YouTube videos, I am trying my hand at those as well and this is the review for the Dyn:
Dyn Audio MW172 8-inch Mid/Woofer Review - YouTube


Anyway, just thought I'd share. It's cool stuff for us audio nerds to bug out on. 🙂

- Erin

Does anyone have a pair of Magnequest EXO-03 plate loading chokes that they want to sell?
Please PM me if you do.
Thank you,
John

I have a chance to buy PCF80 and PCF86 NOS tubes for very cheap.
PCF80 I guess can be used as a replacement for ECF80 (only heater voltage is different?)

How about PCF86?

Should I bother to get few?

Thanks.

What would be a good quality, nice sounding amp module for a portable 2.1 Bluetooth speaker?

It would need to be able to work from Li batteries as well as mains.
thanks!

Sold

I have two sets of ba3 boards. The front end and bias boards are populated and Had been working. The output boards are unpopulated.
$50.00 plus shipping or local pu.
Thanks for looking,
Evan

Hello Everyone,

I'm going through some of my old boxes and found a pair of old Naim phono board left behind after I sold my NAC62.

Found this component which is unknown to me, can someone help to educate me if this is a capacitor and if so what type?



Strange Component | What is this component? | Roy Browne | Flickr

Thank you.

Hey everyone,

I am totally new here 🙂

M trying to build an enclosure box for 6.5 inch 2 way compnent car speakers.

The drivers are from Morel
Morel Maximo Ultra 602 Maximo Ultra Series 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield

Can anyone share the exact dimensions for sealed or ported box? Need to place them in my living room.

Thanks

I'm interested in seeing what other people have done to incorporate subwoofers or large speakers into furniture for saving space. I just built my 1st enclosure yesterday for a 12" sub. Being a beginner, it's sealed and pretty big, 38 x 48 x 61cm to get a flatter response. The XED12V2 has Qts=0.55, and needs a 153 liter enclosure to get 0.707 Qtc. It sounds loud even with a small 100W TPA3116 amp.

Being a huge fan of making things multipurpose, it occurred to me I could've just bought and modified a storage cabinet, which would allow storage in addition to being a table.

I looked at the offerings on hidemysubwoofer.com but none of them allow storage. I'm trying to think what type of gasket you can use to seal the doors and what other issues you'll encounter.

mercury Iv stage for Ess 9038 pro dac test only. (not in use )
price $130 plus shipping

best
myint

Could someone tell me how to select the two end points of a load line using a transformer as a load ?

Let say I want to draw a load line for GM-70.
My OPT is 10k primary single end. Primary DCR is 305 ohm.
B+ is 1100VDC.

Do I use 305 ohm as the load resistance ?

No one else started another thread so here you go. A lot of good ideas have come out of the original thread so lets keep it going.

Does anyone remember the Lumenlab focal calc II?

I found it very handy for creating and working on my projector when it was undergoing creation, is it still around at all?