Troels Gravesen SBA-941 Build

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Hello everyone! So I have started to build Troels's SBA-941 (SBA-941). I have cabinets almost done and now I'm ready to order drivers and crossover parts.

Now the hard part is to decide how far up I want to go with crossover and driver options (SBA-941).

What are your opinions on how big improvements there are when moving to better caps etc? This is my first diy build so I have no idea how big differences in sound we are talking here because price goes up quite steep with these upgrades. I have the cash to layout for these if it's significant improvement.

1. SBA 941 - 3-Way Classic - TW29RN-B - Alumen Z - Silver Z + Drivers 1654 €
2. SBA 941 - 3-Way Classic - TW29BN-B - Beryllium - Alumen Z - Silver Z + Drivers 2079 € (+425 € to base version)
3. SBA 941 - 3-Way Classic - TW29BN-B - Beryllium - Ultimate version + Drivers 2659 € (+1005 € to base version)



Second question is what kind of equipment I should be looking to get most out of these. I'm aiming for music first but I'm also going to get surround channels for movies/tv. Currently I'm thinking of getting some AVR with preouts and suitable amp for SBA941.

And question number two leads us to my next build project. Any recommendations for center? For surrounds I'm probably going with some commercial speakers.
 
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Here's few photos of the project. Project started with building guide for the saw and last photo is first dry fitting before gluing.



I'll add more when I have time to get some photos.
 

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What are your opinions on how big improvements there are when moving to better caps etc? This is my first diy build so I have no idea how big differences in sound we are talking here because price goes up quite steep with these upgrades. I have the cash to layout for these if it's significant improvement.

1. SBA 941 - 3-Way Classic - TW29RN-B - Alumen Z - Silver Z + Drivers 1654 €
Hello Laba,

If it's your first kit, go for the cheaper version with the TW29RN tweeter, not the beryllium one which is really expensive. If you put the crossover out of the speaker box you will be able to tweak and upgrade the crossover after having build the speakers. Concerning caps, I use SCR MKP series PB 400V for years wih are easily available in France or on web shops. Concerning surround speakers, I think you could find diy speakers using the same tweeter or the cheaper SB29RDC and a 6.5 SB bass medium.

Happy building !


PS : one tips, don't cut speaker holes before having speakers in hand ;)
 
Seems to me the basic kit is more than adequate. If anything, use better damping in the cabinet, the white damping cloth Gravesen applies isn't very effective. And the bracing as suggested in the kit description could be bettered, he certainly cuts too much wood away at places.
 
Hello Laba,

If it's your first kit, go for the cheaper version with the TW29RN tweeter, not the beryllium one which is really expensive. If you put the crossover out of the speaker box you will be able to tweak and upgrade the crossover after having build the speakers. Concerning caps, I use SCR MKP series PB 400V for years wih are easily available in France or on web shops. Concerning surround speakers, I think you could find diy speakers using the same tweeter or the cheaper SB29RDC and a 6.5 SB bass medium.

Happy building !


PS : one tips, don't cut speaker holes before having speakers in hand ;)
This is my first proper diy kit but not first speakers. Speakers I'm switching from are Monitor Audio Silver 8's. Right now I'm using my quickly put together Mark Audio CHR70's using vented box design from his site.


Thanks for the surround tip, I was considering if I could find similar sounding/looking but cheaper drivers for those as well. Those seems like good options.
 
Seems to me the basic kit is more than adequate. If anything, use better damping in the cabinet, the white damping cloth Gravesen applies isn't very effective. And the bracing as suggested in the kit description could be bettered, he certainly cuts too much wood away at places.
As a civil engineer I noticed the same with Troels' cut outs. There are some cut outs that are too big and take much away from bracing. I left more material to center bracing.
 
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PS : one tips, don't cut speaker holes before having speakers in hand ;)
Yea, I have front baffles waiting for drivers (and veneer or maybe formica laminate) so that I get the dimensions right.

I don't expect you to hear any difference with more expensive caps. Your wallet will be much lighter though.
Thanks! Based on all your feedback I think I'm going with the base version. I still have option to change them to beryllium in future and use TW29RN-B's in some surround speaker project.
 
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I also put X/O boards outside the box. This allows for easy access for tweaking and upgrades. Yes, there are differences in the sound of capacitors, inductors, resistors wire and cable. The only way to really tell is to experiment for yourself. You can start off basic and upgrade over time. Sometimes basic is good enough; no need to spend extra money if you are happy with the sound quality. I experiment all of the time; I know for a fact some components sound better than others. Sometimes the difference is very obvious; sometimes more subtle. Don't be afraid to experiment and trust your own ears; you are trying to please yourself after all.
 
Afternoon Gents,
I was going to reply earlier concerning damping.
Have a really good read on Troels' site, you will find he only does things for good sound reasons, i built his Fusion BAD and was amazed at the detailed work and simple common sense good design he applies to everything.
There is 00's of pages to read and just about each time i asked him a detailed question he could link me to the answer on the site.
Ask him what and why and i am sure he will answer!
Attaching a value to upgrades is more difficult.
BTW i put the xovers in a drawer in the stand base
mike
 
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funny, people still believe they can hear differences in cables and caps. This audiophile snakeoil does seem to survive no matter how often it is proven wrong ...


I do my own A/B. There IS a difference for sure. Sometimes very obvious, sometimes very subtle. I simply take clip leads and can immediately switch between components, etc. I have many musician friends and family. I ask them which they prefer. They don't know what I'm doing; most of the time they are in 100% agreement with me as to the sound qualities preferred. I am a retired Engineer and Technician both and also a former musician myself. I can tell you with 100% confidence there are differences. This debate will go on forever and that's OK. If you do your own experiments as I do; you will also hear differences. Again, sometimes subtle; sometimes very obvious.

As a musician; I was known for having good tone quality as compared to some of my other band mates. This is the same kind of thing here. The band director knows when one player sounds better than another. I KNOW for SURE when one component sounds better than another. If you don't have a "trained ear" or you are not a musician; you may not notice the effects as much but they are there.

The thing about testing is that most home based hardware and software isn't precise or sophisticated to make any measurements that can prove or disprove this.

I understand the math and the theory and all of the arguments both for and against...so; here we go again; over and over until the end of time...ha ha ha ...
 
Now the hard part is to decide how far up I want to go with crossover and driver options (SBA-941).

What are your opinions on how big improvements there are when moving to better caps etc? This is my first diy build so I have no idea how big differences in sound we are talking here because price goes up quite steep with these upgrades. I have the cash to layout for these if it's significant improvement.

I'd suggest to start with the basic level, and than try if / how you like some of the upgrades later. There are a number of posts in this thread about THD measurements of capacitors and snakeoil gibberish. I have to say that THD is way too low to be audible for basically any capacitor out there, and snake oil is just that. Nevertheless, there are clearly audible differences between different caps. And I have more than once experienced expensive snake oil caps to result on worse sound than a good no-nonsense cap.

Second question is what kind of equipment I should be looking to get most out of these. I'm aiming for music first but I'm also going to get surround channels for movies/tv. Currently I'm thinking of getting some AVR with preouts and suitable amp for SBA941.

The SVA941 is not very efficient and the impedance curve has some bumps, so you are looking for an amplifier with enough power and damping factor. No small tube SE amps low-power class-A transistor amps. Since you are looking at multi-channel audio, you might also consider an amp that is not overly expensive or complicated to make. How about a chip amp ("gainclone")? Maybe take a look at Neurochrome? (the owner is also on diyAudio, user tomchr)
 
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