Lateral MOSFET - Capacitor Betwen D and GND

Hi, i im layouting new pcb for lateral mosfet and found this schematic of OPS.

20211206081535_Figure3-DH-220C-MOSFET-PowerAmp-P1.jpg


My question is about decoupling caps on DRAIN of mosfets. On some schematic i see 220nF between DRAIN and GND, and on some 470nF or 100nF value.
Does this mean that i need to add to each lateral mosfet DRAIN pad as close as possible 470nF?

What is recommended value for DRAIN capacitor for each mosfet (i will be using 2 pairs)?

I will be using EXICON lateral mosfets 2pairs in TO264 case.

And i read that MKT 2,2uF at DRAIN improves THD below 10kHz.

And some members suggests adding 1000uF/63V electrolytic cap to DRAIN and GND and solder on legs of this electrolytic cap 100nF MKP1837 capacitor.

I im not sure if this large capacitor will not give trouble to drain of mosfets when mosfet turns on/off as this large capacitor charges/discharges.This idea have description that it improves large currents/demands from fast slewrate audio amplifier and it is close to DRAIN to give accumulated energ to DRAIN for fast slewrate amplifier.

So what is recommended way?

JVC Victor TT-81 Schematic Diagram & PCB

JVC Victor TT-81 Schematic Diagram & P.C.B.

Schemes and boards in two versions for TAS-19A and TAS-19B boards
I redrew it myself from a poor quality scheme, maybe there are errors somewhere,
so let me know and I will redo it.
I put in a lot of work and patience, so I ask for help in checking and making comments.
Thanks in advance!
Victor TT-81 TAS-19A PCB
https://cloud.mail.ru/public/6VXX/eWdCgKCVR
Victor TT-81 TAS-19A Schematic Diagram
https://cloud.mail.ru/public/Tga7/ithR4GWWt
Victor TT-81 TAS-19B PCB
https://cloud.mail.ru/public/CWJ9/h7dtw1CV7
Victor TT-81 TAS-19B Schematic Diagram
https://cloud.mail.ru/public/PQFR/CpwRdUR34

Attachments

Pac AP4 GM61 tuning

I recently put in my sound system in my new truck with Bose, I am using the AP4 GM61, I just pulled everything from my old truck and put in new one and everything seems fine except the bass, it's non existent until I have the bass knob turned 3/4 way up and by then it sounds muddled or too much especially at medium to lower volumes. The module was installed by a stereo shop in the previous truck and I do not know what all configuring they did which might of been none cause the chime volume still about pierced my eardrums. I did set the " minimum volume " and wonder if that messed it up. The chime volume is perfect now after I set it. I am thinking or setting back to factory settings but don't know how good it would sound like that or if too difficult to try and tune with a PC. Is there a certain position to have the knob while tuning the system? Thanks in advance.

Ewidance warmup

Hi all,

Long time occasional reader, but not a big contributor since English is not my native language (French, sorry🙂 ), I’m a musician, maker and audio DIY mainly on musical instruments / devices. I'm occasionally maintaining amps, effects & other devices. I love vintage guitar tube amps and recently built a tube tester ( excellent uTracer 3+ from Ronald Dekker) to help to match and qualify tubes. I also founded and directed the Montpellier FabLab (https://labsud.org) for 6 years. Recently retired from a technical director position, got now time for my passions around music: building/repairing amps and effects, lutherie for building guitar and bass (and tuning them), rehearsal and live performances with those equipment.... But my main goal is continuing to learn & share, as technician, musician and human...

https://civade.com : DIY Blog

Have a nice day!
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PSB Stratus gold X-over help

Hello all. I need to rebuild the x-over on my beloved Golds after I fried the x-over board, I mean burnt by an overheated resistor to the point I can't follow the board traces to get the schematics! I have called PSB and they would only give me the values of the resistors, but no schematics. Can anyone steer me in the right direction??? I will rebuild them one way or another and will post the outcome.

could this work ? ( planar dipole / CD horn coax )

let's say HYPOTHETICALLY you took the large format B&C ME464 horn:

https://www.bcspeakers.com/en/products/horn/1.4/0/ME464

1.4" BMS midrange

https://www.bmsspeakers.com/index.php-62.html?id=bms_4594nd-mid

and Radian LM8K mid-tweeter configured as dipole

https://radianaudio.com/collections/ribbon/products/lm8k-wide-band-planar-ribbon-transducer

put the planar coaxially inside the horn and crossed them over at 1.5 khz ...

the black line in the chart below is for DIPOLE operation of LM8K WITHOUT BAFFLE

1742266611829.png


so as you see you don't lose any output by going dipole - if anything you get BETTER frequency response from the dipole ( above 1.5 khz )

there is a fairly obvious SLOT shape in the middle of the ME464 horn where the LM8K would fit almost perfectly ... of course i am not talking about blocking the output of the compression driver - there would perhaps be about 3 inches of space left on all sides of the LM8K for the sound from BMS mid can go around it ... but also some of the sound would go THROUGH it as well ...

then to control the back wave from the LM8K you would put some acoustical damping material ( like wool ) right behind it as well as line the sides of the horn with a thin layer of foam or felt ...

the logic being that below 1.5 khz a horn loaded BMS mid is about 110db / watt

1742269398790.png


versus a measly 90 db for the LM8K ... on other hand the BMS will roll off above about 3 khz but the LM8K actually has rising response all the way up to 10 khz ...

so you can create a sort of a co-axial driver, not unlike this radian:

1742267686196.png


https://radianaudio.com/collections/ribbon/products/6crn38lt6-line-array-driver

only instead of a cone there would be a midrange horn and the planar would be a dipole instead of having a very shallow chamber ( like what i assume Radian is using ).

i think dipole could be beneficial here because by allowing some of the BMS output to go THROUGH the dipole it would reduce the diffraction around it ...

also even though a dipole has a rear wave it has no side radiation so as long as the rear wave could be tamed maybe reflections inside the horn wouldn't be so bad.

for example you could even stuff the horn with wool so that the low frequencies can come out of the horn but the HF back wave from the planar is absorbed instead of being reflected ...

again, for the time being i am not suggesting this would make a practical speaker but rather this is a thought exercise - the question is can it be done and would it work ?

and yes i am aware BMS is famous for their COAXIALS so you could just get one of their 1.4" coaxials on the same horn but IMHO those are also not without compromise. it is not theoretically possible to perfectly combine the output of the two BMS diaphragms. the way they combine is merely GOOD ENOUGH not perfect.

the question then is can my proposed planar / horn coax combine the two outputs WELL ENOUGH too ?

the problem with BMS and B&C coax design is that it is immutable - whereas my concept can be CUSTOMIZED for different applications ...

you may not see the value in crossing over a midrange compression horn to planar and that's understandable in which case just imagine that instead of a horn it's a woofer. and you are placing a dipole planar in front of the woofer. has anybody tried that ?

obviously Radian has done it, but not with a dipole. but i think one benefit of dipole for example is that the diaphragm conductors would be cooled from both sides rather than sealed off with a chamber from behind thus increasing output capacity ...

another benefit is that bass from the woofer won't push the dipole diaphragm into the chamber but put similar pressure on it from both sides the force thus mostly canceling out so that the diaphragm isn't as heavily modulated by the bass ( hopefully )

i already mentioned that diffraction would be reduced ...

what do you think ?

Simple amp to build

Ok, So I am looking around for a simple amp project as a fun build.
And I came across this page https://sound-au.com/project12.htm
And it got me thinking.
The last version on that page could be nice I think. Easy to stabilize and enough loop gain for decent THD specs.
Why is this simple input arrangement not used more often?
I always see the LTP in VFB amps or the basics of a diamond buffer as used on CFB amps.
But why not a single transistor?
The only downside is that it can't be DC coupled.
Using more modern output transistors could make this amp more then fast enough also.

Just some thinking.

Any ideas to improve it further are welcome.
Also any other simple amp projects are welcome.

How to find a replacement/equivalent rectifier diode?

I have a rectifier diode (I think thats what its called?) That I want to replace because it has broken legs, but I cant find the exact model, and am wondering what do I need to know to find a replacement/equivalent?

The diode is a FMU34S, Ill add a photo of it as well.

The diode tests good, at least from what I can tell, but I would like to replace it if possible.

I would like to replace its twin also, a FMU34R, if possible.

Can someone please let me know what I need to know to find a suitable replacement?

Any help is appreciated!



IMG_1336.jpeg

Slatted wood grille speakers - Retrofitting - How to select new full-range drivers?

Hello everyone, I'm starting my first DIY audio project and I have a few questions about the best approach.

I recently picked up two wooden speakers with a slatted grill from a thrift store ("kringloopwinkel") in Amsterdam. I reckon the speakers are from the 1960-1970s and were a DIY build - perhaps the housing was sold as a kit (I believe that was common at the time).

Now this pair of speakers contain two different drivers, one seemingly made by Philips and the other one by Isophon.
I'm thinking about replacing these with modern, full-range drivers that can work with the enclosure. Currently, using two different drivers won't give the best output. But I'm not so sure how to find a possible match for the housing.
My initial idea is to replace the drivers, and install a Raspberry Pi with HiFiBerry AMP2 in one speaker (the speaker which is slightly larger) to make it a TIDAL Connect speaker (a speaker pair that won't break the bank). A friend of mine who is a luthier can help me to repair the damaged wood veneer.

Both speakers have 8 openings/gaps, of which the top and bottom ones are slightly smaller.
The inner dimensions of the housing are as follows.

Speaker 1
230mm x 210mm x 125mm
6.04L
0.213 cubic feet

Speaker 2
230mm x 250mm x 125mm
7.19L
0.254 cubic feet

CAD drawing of front of speakers

vintage-1960s-speaker.png


Front of speakers photo

IMG_0575.jpg


Speaker 1 photos

IMG_0570.jpg

IMG_0572.jpg


Speaker 2 photo

IMG_0578.jpg


Isolation photo

The isolation probably needs replacing.

IMG_0576.jpg


Question about selecting full-range driver
  • How do I select the full-range driver that works with the enclosure?
    • Note that I can make the larger speaker the same inner size by compartmentalizing the Raspberry Pi + HiFiBerry amplifier in a 40mm space.
    • So far I have tried fiddling with WinISD, but I'm just not sure how to take into account the slatted grill/vent situation when modeling.
    • PartsExpress also notes the optimal vented volume. Is it enough to select a driver by matching their vented volume with mine for +/- 10% ?
  • What is the best way to mount the full-range driver?
    • Should I mount the driver in the same way as the current ones, or should I ensure that the speaker covers the six larger middle vents while keeping the top and bottom vents open for bass? If so, this would probably require a 4-inch full-range driver.
Thank you for your time!

Adcom GFA5800 Heat Sink Thermistor

Hello! I am repairing an Adcom GFA5800 amp which has a thermistor mounted to each heat sink to drive the fan. The problem is that one of the leads broke off flush with the part. This side of the amp calls for a 40C part. How would I go about finding a sub for this part? I looked on DIGI-KEY but didn’t see a spec for 40C. Any help would be much appreciated!

The Effects of Damping a Ported Cabinet

I've just lined my desktop speakers with thin egg-box foam. I admit the speakers sound less boxy. There's less bass in the 100-200Hz region. But I remain sceptical. Doesn't the foam simply reduce cabinet volume?

It's confusing. I've taken apart hundreds of speakers. Some manufactures stuff their cabinets with damping and wadding like the they bought it in a fire sale, others use none.

First build, any feedback or questions

Hello Diy audio,

Welcome to my first build, 7 woofers, one horn loaded titanium driver. Rms 600w (but I will never get up to that), db level that is much to loud for my apartment. Some may question this design choices, roast and question away.

About 90% done, just wiring, paint and grills to go. Budget was low but dreams were high. They sound pretty great, with rew, I can eq in a perfect flat line, and phase response is clean. Woofers are suposably somethingb like 98db sensitivity
(6pt-8). One day they will live outside where they have space to breathe.

Thank you to the help diy audio has given me aswell the kind people who responded to my interestingly written questions. This place is my training guide of the ins and outside of speakers.
17422556341748544785647224316926.jpg
1742255672053192466662561607692.jpg
17422557102153952747972011841559.jpg

Change Op-Amp / Caps in CD player

Good Morning, I have a old Luxman D-355 that I like to restore / fresh up.

It have two Op-Amps after DAC chip ( analog out ). The units is NJM2100D ( dual ) from JRC, is it worth change them?

I also thinking of re-cap, the unit is from 1995 so 30 years old. But I like the way it present the music with the 1 bit DAC.

I think of good all around caps for the board except maybe some audio caps for the analog part.

Any thoughts ?

Frank

Taramps DS 1200X4 turns on but sounds distorted

Hello, I have another taramps on my bench. 2 of the traces were burned away I had to repair them, crudely, the 2-10 ohm resistors in the +/- 5 volts circuit, they were reading in the kilo ohms.

I've managed to solder on the IRS 2093 IC, all the relevant voltages are there. VCC 1-2 is 14.2 volts, plus both +/-5 volts and 10.1 volts on the CSD pin.

But with all that the audio sounds distorted so a checked the drive voltages and they're are like 1 volt or .4 volts or even 2 volts.

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Auva footers

Recently I installed Auva 50 footers under my speakers. Auva's are products from Stack Audio in UK and only sold dealer direct online. I installed these after a personal recommendation from an audio friend whose recommendations are always spot on. The Stack audio website is full of information on what the products supposedly do, along with numerous reviews and customer comments. Reviews and comments are always on the positive side, otherwise they would not be on the site. The product information is extensive. But then it is about selling a product. They do come with a 30-day money back, so it is a safe purchase. I made the purchase and installed the Auva's.
Once installed I did a slight speaker positioning adjustment, and I started listening.
It did not take too long a time to tell that something was vastly different in the music. And the vast difference is that the Auva's seemed to remove the electronic signature of the audio system. The music came alive and brought a "You are there" sound and feel to the music. This was across the board with every disc that I have played, no exceptions. Of course, the musicians are not there in the room with you quite obviously. But if you close your eyes to remove visual stimuli, the music does sound like the real natural sound of musical instruments and human voices, with nothing really added. I listen to classical and jazz, with some folk music at times. I tend to not listen to electronic popular music very much at all.

The Auva's are the real deal! They are highly recommended. I have found them to be the biggest sound improvement that I have ever made in all my many years of audio listening.

My speakers are in the pic below. They are DIY, designed in 2003 by the late Rick Craig of Selah Audio, and remade in 2018. They are simple DIY speakers nothing too fancy. They are a 2 1/2-way design with Seas W18E and Hiquphon OW,1. They are reasonably similar to Troel's CNO25, though my design predate Troel's by a long time. The spearkers are driven by a Starkrimson Ultra amplifier. All music is DSD64, DSD128 or DSD256 supplied by the Marantz SA KI-Ruby player.

I should add the following disclaimer:
I fully understand that my observations are worthless anecdotal observations and are completely unsupported by any graph, measurement, or any such thing. I only posted because perhaps there are a few odd individual listeners who might read this and investigate for themselves.

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IRS2092S Pin 2 GND

Working with a IRS2092S based amp and I want to modify it to accept non inverting signals. Pin 2 is marked as the + input and is normally grounded. Can I lift the ground with say a 100 ohm resister to ground and then use pin 2 as a non inverting input or am I missing something. It does state in the datasheet that the COMP and protect circuit reference the ground from pin 2.

Doing the unthinkable. Adding a series resistor to a transformer primary to lower the voltage

A few days ago I suddenly noticed 'something' was humming noticeably in my set up and that something turned out to be my Sony MDS-JE480 Minidisc recorder which was in use at the time. Switch to standby and the noise vanished. Hmmm, well hummmm actually and from the transformer. Examination of the PSU shows that it uses two transformers, one for standby and one to power the main unit. Kind of unbelievable really for a budget model although it was and is ranked as one of the very best sounding of all due to its use of the very last generation of ATRAC which is the data compression system.

For curiosity I measured the mains and it is was high(ish) at 247 to 248 volt. Was that playing a part I wondered. The mains here is often in the 242 volt region but this was right at the top end. We also have something that is a kind of active voltage control system in this area where mains voltage is dynamically controlled and optimised in real time according to overall demand. It obviously has to keep within legal limits but the idea is to reduce voltage when demand is high to reduce loading on the grid which is sort of counter intuitive when you think of all the SMPS as lowering line voltage will increase current draw... however...

Back to the Minidisc. I wondered if doing the unthinkable would be possible... adding a series dropper resistor to the mains transformer.

The power supply is shown here. You can see the little standby supply at the top of the schematic and the larger (but in reality still pretty small) main transformer at the bottom. The PCB layout lends itself well to trying this as there are two wire links (arrowed) are fitted in the feed to the larger transformer primary. I removed these wire links and fitted two 56 ohm flameproof resistors in their place.

PSU 1.jpg


Results seem really good. Operation is now silent and the two resistors drop around 3 volts each and run essentially cold. The drop seems very constant and does not change under any operating conditions such as when the mech is loading. So regulation is essentially unaffected.

I wouldn't normally recommend anything like this but in this instance it seems to be a viable and workable solution. The PSU regulated supplies have a lot of headroom and even at lower mains voltage near the lower legal limit (not that we ever come close to that here) there should not be an issue.

Totally unrelated to this and something I only noticed with studying the PSU diagram is that the analogue opamp stages are fed from a 100% unregulated supply (arrowed). How audiophile is that? Perhaps very! because it certainly works extremely well on these budget machines and which as mentioned are reckoned to be one of the best sounding.

PSU 2.jpg


Also of interest is the 0.0022uF cap shown across the relay contacts in the PSU schematic. I measured an AC voltage of around 17 volts AC across the primary in standby, quite high really and due to the reactance of the cap. Is that of consequence? Maybe it plays a part in muting and silent power on and off as it means some voltage will be present on the rails (particularly the unregulated ones) even in standby. This is one of those times where you have to think that the designers really knew what they were doing.

The analogue stages fed from the unregulated supply:

PSU 3.png

Radian 745NeoBe or 950NeoBe? And Recommended CD Horn?

How might the midrange and HF band presentation change between these 1.4 and 2" models?


https://www.usspeaker.com/radian 745neoBepb-1.htm
https://www.usspeaker.com/radian 950Bepb-1.htm

Alternates https://www.usspeaker.com/radian 951Bepb-1.htm
https://www.usspeaker.com/radian 760neoBepb-1.htm


Which would you choose for what kind of two-way (only) speaker build and why?

Also, please recommend the best constant directivity horn you would suggest for any of those drivers.

Any experience with these?

https://alg-audiodesign.com/pavillons/
https://audiohorn.net/x-shape-horn/
https://audiohorn.net/next-gen-bi-radial-horn/
https://www.usspeaker.com/ciare pr614-1.htm

Help!! 6AQ5 SE amp

1741411681769.jpg
1741411610028.jpg

I want to add this tone control on this circuit.
1742229111640-2.jpg

Can I do it this way?( is the amplification rate too low?)
And I want to add direct function(don't pass the tone control circuit) i know it is unnecessary on this circuit( when the knob is on the middle, it works like direct function) it is for experimental reason, I want to know the effect of the capacitors of the tone control circuit on sound quality. So can I just add the switch on the input(like upper schematic) or should I add one more switch before the grid input(because i thought 12ax7 on the tone control could cause noise)(like lower schematic)
1742229111640-1.jpg

I am sorry for poor English.... can anyone help with these problem?

Which heatsink for a chipamp.com LM3886

I am going to build an LM3886 chipamp on chipamp.com boards. About 30-34VDC on the rails (22vac tranny) with an 8 ohm speaker load.

I have 2 each of these heatsinks but no way to calculate if they are adequate. I will make the enclosure and can make it to fit.

The small heatsinks are 45mm x 50mm x 20mm. One LM3886 on each heatsink.
The large heatsinks are 270mm x 100mm x 50mm. Maybe put both chips on one heatsink?

Do you think the smaller heatsinks will work? If not would both chips on one large heatsink be sufficient?

I know this is somewhat of a guess without know the characteristics of the heatsinks but it is what I have.

Thanks

Small heatsinks:
20250110_143240.jpg


Large
20250110_144732.jpg

Small 3D printed unity horn

For a new topcabinet, I needed a MF/HF (or only HF) section, which is able to handle a crossover around 700Hz. The whole design revolves around maximum output for a given size. The dual 10" LF section is loaded by a short offset driver horn and ported rear chamber. For this to work, I knew from the beginning, that a relative low crossover was necessary (approximately 700-800Hz as an estimate). In total the following demands are set:

-Low XO possibility (700-800Hz)
-Maximum hight and width 29x29cm total
-+- 80 degrees horizontal dispersion
-50/60 degrees vertical dispersion
-Rotatable horn for possible horizontal arraying

This all could be solved by going for a coaxial CD or large 4" VC and for example a RCF HF950 horn. But there is no fun in that.
So I wanted to try a different (and unknown for me) path for this project. After some minor research I decided to just start with some design work and see what can or will come out.


This gave the following:
KyQiV05.jpeg

TTcZ67e.jpeg


The MF drivers are two 4ND34-16 from B&C, and a new RCF NDX595.
The whole horn is for now printed out of 5 parts total due to the size of my current printer. In the end its the idea to bring it down to two and outsource the frontal part.

As I wanted to be flexible with some testing, I made the MF taps removable. This way i can test various placements, sizes and shapes.
By doing so, I am a bit limted in vertical placement eventually though, but priting that whole parts again takes a lot of time and money if I have to do that several times.

As I wanted to try it ASAP, I made some preliminary inside measurements with a calibrated UMIK-1. Its not ideaal, but gives a first impression.
Distance mic to SUT +- 40cm.

2x4NDF34-16 parallel, taps a close as possible with insert, two 22mm round holes (total area 7,6cm^2 per 4NDF34) + NDX595:
bWmWm0j.jpeg

With this measurement, the back of both 4NDF34's was open.

I tried my best by closing the back of the 4NDF34's with gaffa tape and got the following results:
iC56yFU.jpeg

I will be printing some better parts for the drivers to get it better and neatly, I am quite sure its leaking currently.

The 1kHz dip of the NDX595 is due to the current tap design an placement. When covering with some pieces of tape:
Z9LUaZY.jpeg




To try and reduce the dip at 1kHz, I did a quick test with a MF tap inserts which has several small holes compared to the two 22mm diamter ones per driver.
70h1tNs.jpeg

Response evened out quite a bit, but less high end extension from the 4NDF34's:
YIA6bRQ.jpeg



Currently next things I want to do:
-New insert with angled taps (facing away from CD)
-Resolve some resonating parts I still have
-Make a turning table for some off-axis measurements
-Back covers for 4NDF34
-Measure NDX595 on the PH220 I have for some sort of reference
-Get my other measurement mic calibrated again to get some measurements with phase response. This will be crucial to eventually get a nice crossover and if going passive MF tap placement is key from the beginning.
-Do some impedance measurements
-Get a whole day to do various measurements and outside or larger room.
-In the end the HF exit integration can be smoothed out/be better

Its still a work in progress and the outcome could still be that its not viable in the end or does not meet the set criteria. But we will see 🙂

Purifi / Satori, Bench Top 2.1 Speakers

Hello All,

I took the plunge,

Today I received from Madisound a pair of Purifi 6 – ½ inch Aluminum mid-woofers and a pair of Satori Textreme 29MM tweeters.

I also have on hand a pair of Satori Beryllium tweeters to audition.

See the attached links to the data sheets below.

This is planned to be two-way Bench-top speakers with a summed subwoofer tucked on the shelf below.

Look at the Purifi data sheet and you will notice that below ~ 125Hz that the Harmonic Distortion takes a steep climb. The crossover to the sub will remove the long excursion Low Frequencies from the Purify mid-bass driver. With the LF removed there is expected to be reduced intermodulation with the higher frequency voice content of the program material.

Purifi PTT6.5X04-NAA-08 6.5"

Satori TW29TXN-B-4 / TeXtreme Dome Tweeter

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...tori-tw29txn-b-4/textreme-dome-tweeter-4-ohm/

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...tw29bn-b-beryllium-dome-tweeter-black-flange/
https://purifi-audio.com/document/share/16/6b6d90f3-b9db-4eaa-9f36-9d424bd2adba

To start the crossover will be a active Rane Mojo MX23 that Is already on the shelf. There is a switchable factory summed sub-woofer output. The tweeters and mid-woofers will be driven by the XLR “HF” and “mid” outputs on the back side of the active crossover. The crossover frequencies are adjustable.

The Purifi site has a discussion about using series notch filters with the Purifi driver to notch out the 5kHz and ~ 9.5kHz resonate peaks from the Frequency Response. This is worth an effort. I think

A approximate 6 Liter sealed enclosure will used to start the Proto process.

Thanks DT

Sonance 50wpc stereo power amp modules

Bought a "Higher end" Sonance power amp and the chassis got wrecked in shipping. I am now selling the parts to make up the loss. ( I plan to keep the heatsinks and Toroid)

I have a few of these 50watt (8e) stereo power amplifier modules. All original parts (since all are working pullouts, all tested). They are Very conservatively rated.

At 8 ohms I measured clipping at 26.6vac RMS (That's over 80 watts) and at 4 ohms a little over 25vac RMS (over 150 watts) with its own power supply. To get to these numbers, you will need maximum rails of +/-45vdc. These are absolute max voltages per the uPC1225 predriver IC.

All you need is a transformer and a Bridge rectifier. The kit comes with the Power caps built in. I will explain hook-ups to the buyers once sale is done... very easy.

Uses the very robust Sanken 2sc3519/1860 pair.

Asking for $30 per Stereo module.

Can anyone help me on this?

Hi, i'm new on balanced audio and those hi-fi things, can anyone help me on verifying if this circuit would work for muting balanced audio? the XLR-Female receives a balanced low level signal from a XLR electret condenser MIC, the output of the circuit (XLR-Male) goes to the mixer that has phantom power, all 10uf caps are metal film, S1 and S2 are TS5A3359 analog switches that will be driven by a dedicated zero-crossing circuit, but that doesn't matter now, what i really need help is in knowing if the caps will pass through just the signal without any distortion or loss and if disconection will make any noise or pop, i also have the curiosity of knowing if this circuit is optimal for that purpose, thanks for the attention and sorry for the bad english, i'm brazillian.

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The Objective2 (O2) Headphone Amp DIY Project

This has been in the works a while. At the request of friends (and a few critics) I've designed my own portable/desktop amp--The Objective2 (O2 for short). I just published the third and final main article to my blog.

It's a very objective approach (what would you expect from an electrical engineer?) at a low cost "one size fits all" headphone amp. The goal was to show how much performance is possible on a limited budget. It's designed to outperform even far more expensive desktop amps using solid engineering rather than audiophile designer parts or mythical topologies.

For now it's a DIY amp but it's a free open source design and a few commercial companies have already expressed an interest in offering it in various forms. Some have called it the spiritual successor to the Cmoy but the performance is in an entirely different league (sorry for not being more modest!). Some highlights:

* Enough output even for difficult headphones like the full size HiFiMan Planars and 600 ohm Beyers (7 V RMS and lots of current). It will drive nearly any headphone from 16 - 600 ohms to "live" levels.
* Completely silent even with the most sensitive BA IEMs (zero hiss with 131 dB S/N )
* Near zero ohm output impedance (0.5 ohms)
* Very low distortion of any kind--some tests push the lower limits of my dScope audio analyzer.
* ~8 hours battery life for the normal version & ~ 30 hours for the low power version
* Indistinguishable from Benchmark DAC1 in blind listening tests
* Switchable gain for use with different source/headphones
* Unique battery rundown protection
* DIY friendly, self contained on a single PC board, no surface mount parts
* Designed for a rugged inexpensive all aluminum case with a pre-made customizable front panel available.

And, perhaps the best part: You can build the fully functional self contained PC board for around $30 in parts with everything but the bare board available from Mouser.

The performance of this amp, as measured on professional instrumentation, genuinely rivals the well regarded headphone amp in the Benchmark DAC1 and is significantly quieter. It also beats every other amp, overall, I've ever had on my bench--especially its closest competitor the AMB Mini3.

I welcome feedback on the project and hope it develops into something worthwhile. I'm not looking to make any money from it in any way. Here's the link to the final article which has links to the earlier information as well:

http://nwavguy.blogspot.com/2011/08/o2-details.html

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:att'n:
I have put together a fault finding guide on the O2 (post #3775) that gives step by step testing and checking procedures. Click HERE
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Amplifier history

I think it would be nice to learn about amplifier history (any type).

To start with a topic:

Does anyone know who built the first class D-type amp? Or who were the pioneers and how did the amps look like?

And when was it combined the first time with a weight sparing SMPS?

I enjoy so much small but efficient amplifiers because of their transportability.

3 Way Bullet Build - Official epic awesome office build thread

I think I'm about 3 months into this project so far but I'm now going to start the build thread.

This build consists of 3 way nearfield monitors and a coffee table that is also a push-push bass reflex subwoofer.

This is in no way an "optimal" build. It was never supposed to be. It is meant to be an outlandish, exotic, fun build. I wanted to use different drivers, different configurations, different methods, different everything. I can build a two studio monitor and have it play back accurate. This is not that. That I could just buy. This is building something you cannot just buy. Something you'd have to make. Something you'd have to explain to even someone into audio.

OBJECTIVE:
Create an awesome 3 way setup with a sub that goes from 18 hz to 40K hz. Distorion under 2% for everything 200 hz and up. It needed it fit under my triple monitors and not take up too much office space. By making the coffee table for my office couch the sub I have succeeded for the sub. The 3 ways are pretty big but they tuck under the monitors which is dead space anyways. Budget was under $500. I think I might end up a little over with the crossover but we will see
Monitors:
Tweeter
- GRS RT1.R - 5K hz and up $60 (on sale)
I hear good things about these ribbons. This is the first time I am using a ribbon tweeter. Hoping there isn't too steep of a learning curve. I took the measurements with a 45 uf cap. The sweep sounds insanely clean.

MID: - GRS 8" Mid Planar - 800-5k hz $55 (on sale)
This is another first, I have never used anything other than a cone driver for a mid so far. I did spent a ridiculous amount of time 3d printing horns. I learned a lot. I can get it go down to 500 hz cleanly but it requires a massive horn and that isn't the direction I wanted to go.

WOOFER: - Epique 5.5" MMAG Woofer $70 (on sale with coupon)
I was hesistant to go with this driver. It has measured out very well. With the port its hitting down into the 30s with ease. Impressive little thing. I got it on sale so not so bad. It has an incredible amount of XMAX. Interested to start working with this thing


Subwoofer: - GRS 12" High Excursion Paper Cone
Nothing special here. I have simulated these before and wondered how anyone could have a use for them since they require such a large box. Well, a coffee table is around 13000 inch square. So two of them work perfectly here.

ENCLOSURE:
This is a 3d printed enclosure. The filament used here is carbon fiber infused PETG. It is dense, heavy, and rings super low. I have so much bracing in this unit and the walls are so thick I'm pretty sure I could park my Acura RSX on it without it failing. I'll throw up some pictures for you to see. This part was printed on a very large 3d printer and it took 3 days to print. In total it is 6 pounds of filament. This isn't your friends 3d printing. This is industrial grade. I have a few of these at work and use them all the time. This required the largest one we have.

The Planar Mid is sandwiched inside the enclosure between the face and the body. Behind the mid planar is a diffusion array. I tested a bunch of these. This one works the best by a long shot. Not exactly sure why. The back cup is filled with polyfill. There is a sheet of microfiber cloth between the fill and the planar so the poly fill fibers do not end up inside of the driver.

The enclosure is exactly 0.38' cube. I forget how long the port is but it is exact to what I wanted. Do not underestimate the amount of time it took me to create this model to EXACTLY 0.38' cube volume AND have the port the exact length. The port is the stand. It still in prototype stage but with eventually be 3d printed in the same black filament as the body.


Coffee Table Subwoofer:

So this became of me just screwing around one night with WINISD. I needed a coffee table and didn't want a boring one. I run the fab shop of an engineering consulting company so I figured I might was well make the coffee table a sub and show off some fab skills. The volume is 13000" square. I forget the port length but there are two of them and they are 4" diameter. That is as wide of diameter as I could go without adding bends which I didn't want to do. They fire at the floor. The table will be 2" off of the floor. I won't get past the max port velocity until 200 watts so I think I am ok. I'll be powering it with a 200 watt RMS amplifier. I will run them in series for an 8 ohm impedence. This is an office so that should be sufficient. I'm not trying to shake the building down here.

The woofers will be sandwiched between the middle bracing and the outer walls. They are more than snug. I already fitted that up. They will not be screwed to the sides. There will be 8 M5 threaded rods running through the entirety of the cabinet to link the two woofers. There are also some reinforcing rings midway so that the threaded rod doesn't try to bow as they run a decent distance.

I think the bracing is sufficient if not a little overboard. Again, I can probably park my Acura on this without it breaking.

The big party trick here is the top will be clear Acrylic. It will be screwed on with gasket on all the bracing to seal it. No way am I doing all this crazy engineering and then hiding it. Nope, I want everyone to see what is going on.


Measurements:

These will be coming soon. I just took them today. I will get them into VituixCAD and start messing with the crossover. I'll probably go with a 3 way series crossover. I like the flexibility of the series crossover. Less need for a bunch of components in the form of notch filters. The Mid planar and the Ribbon will both require some notches. I can already tell from the measurements. They do all measure very clean. These are much lower distortion drivers than anything I have used before. Anyways, coming soon, I am running out of time before I have to head out to dinner.


Thanks for reading. I should be done with the sub next week and the crossover within the next 2 weeks.

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ASTM New Diffusion Standard - ANDS

This is going to be a bit of a dive into acoustic diffusion, so fasten your nerd spectacles with enough duct tape, Let's go to acoustic space!

I'd like to present diffusion from the point of product photography to give a visual reference point of what diffusion and reflections are, so it can be a bit easier to understand the concepts. Photos 1-4 are from the book Light - Science and magic, An introduction to photographic lighting, 4th edition, pages 35-37 (F. Hunter, S. Biver, P. Fuqua, published by Elsevier inc. 2012)
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The Phase and amplitude balloon graphs of an acoustic diffuser (phase grating panel), measured with the proposed ASTM New Diffusion Standard @ 8.5kHz show the same effect as diffusing material (white paper/phase balloon) and specular reflection (plastic handles of the soldering iron & pliers, all metal parts/ amplitude balloon)

Tuote HiPer PanelGLL 8.5khz phase shift.jpg

Tuote HiPer PanelGLL 8.5khz Attenuation.jpg

This is the measured panel on the balloon graphs above. Being a flat panel, it produces a specular reflection but the holes affect the phase change ie. light reflecting off of a white paper.
Tuote HiPer Panel.jpg

Several measured diffusers, the .GLL files and GLLViewer can be downloaded from NWAA Labs https://www.nwaalabs.com/Index Surface Reflectors (Diffusers).html

This article explains the flaws of measuring acoustic diffusion and trying to depict the phenomena with a scattering coefficient on a simple graph with the current standard:
October 9, 2022
The Misunderstanding of Acoustic Diffusion Test Data
Where we've been, where we are and where we're going
Richard L. Lenz, RealAcoustix LLC.
https://realacoustix.com/news/news-full-article/tmp-1

Matthew Poes of Poes Acoustics has a ~5min part in his video from this topic
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This mammoth of a video goes deeper into this topic, with explanations and measurements straight from physicist/acoustician Ron Sauro (NWAA Labs) and acoustic designer John Brandt, hosted by Karthik Ramanathan. Timestamp starts from the similar phase grating panel pictured above and continues to a show examples of diffraction modules.
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Didn't find much conversation about these topics so I hope this helps and opens up some discussion about the possibilities these new measuring methods can provide to modifying our acoustic spaces, but also how these may be utilised in speaker design. And please do correct me if I'm way off on something, I'm only a novice on acoustics and as english is not my native language there is a bit of a language barrier.

For Sale 2 Pairs Of Unmatched Yamaha 2SJ26 2SK76 V-FETs

Up for offer are 2 pairs of NOS unmatched Yamaha 2SK76/2SJ26 V-FET's. I got these years ago from someone that Yamaha supplied samples to for an audio mag V-FET amp article they were writing back in the day. Since I haven't done anything with them yet it's time for someone else to hopefully make them do what they do best and enjoy them.

How about $180 US for the set + shipping and duties/tariffs for these sonic beauties.

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Sorry but NA shipping only.

SAA 7220

Hi all! So there is an old thread on this Chip. That it is very power hungry and noisy

And the thread poster wanted to have a dedicated PSU. Although I’m not sure why they talked about grounding it… if I understand it right. Isn’t the right way to do it is to have a PSU that have 5 volt to VDD and VSS ? And leave it grounded in the board.

The data sheet shows Pin 12 and 24 wouldn’t that solve the power issue ?

Is there someone out here that have experience in this!? 🙏

Hello, i am noob audio engineer

Hello, I am noob audio engineer from South Korea. My father was audio engineer and professor in 70s.and now I got his heritage(I used the word 'heritage' because he is too old to continue making amp because he can barely see. He is healthy) I have his 6v6 pp amp and other tr amps. Especially the 6v6 pp amp was his last work as he retired as a engineer and professor.(look at the pic) It had wonderful sound. But it is too old, it keeps causing problems. I don't want anyone to fix my father's work. So I want to study audio on my own and fix it(it is still not working)and also make my own amp too. Now I am making 6aq5 se amp for study. But I need advice from anyone here, so I joined the forum
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Coax / tapped horn speaker

Howdy. Wondering if anyone has considered a 4-driver PM90 with some of the new B&C coax drivers? I was thinking one could probably achieve a high-SPL box that's still pole-mounted. I was looking at B&C 8NDL64 drivers, which are less than 6lbs each. Add that to the B&C DCX-464 and either their ME464 horn or the RCF HF950 and you'd have a Loud full-range speaker.

I've been looking at the Meyer X40, Peter's PM90, and the Danley SM100B. Danley uses four less powerful drivers to keep up with the 5" coax mid/high. Peter has two horn-loaded drivers. Meyer just has two angled front-loaded drivers with a slotted port on the X40 and two slots on their larger X80.

I was thinking that Peter's design with the B&C horn would leave room for a pair of 8" drivers at top and bottom. Total component weight plus the horn comes out to less than 45lbs with crossover.

Thoughts? Anyone wanna throw this into some software and take a look? I'm an ideas guy - no idea how to run hornresp or any of the other fun toys.

Can this phono preamp produce these measurements? They are more than good! But are they true?

Dual DC power supply from + 9 v to +18 v and - 9 v to -18 v, alternatively single power supply from +9 v to + 28 v DC (on customer request).
Input sensitivity 3 mv out 1470 mv gain 50 db, signal to noise ratio 105 db, impedance 47 Khom. frequency response 15 HZ 30 KHZ.


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Commercial Projector Ballast Bypass Guide

The ballast was pretty easy to bypass after some poking around with a multimeter.

***For those of you that are having trouble bypassing the ballast on any projector***

1 - Find the group of wires that come from the ballast to the main board.
2 - Power the projector on with NO lamp.
3 - Measure the voltages on all the wires connecting to the main board.
4 - Find the wire that is close to +3V
5 - Insert lamp (If you have one) and power on. Measure the voltage of this wire again. The voltage should be around 0V
6 - Connect the spot on the board where that wire connected to a ground on the main board.

This will bypass the lamps for 90% of projectors. It has worked for me on about 8 different models. All else fails just ground each wire and power on and see if the projector stays on. Remember that the wires coming from the board need to be grounded NOT the wires coming from the ballast.

This seems to be a frequent question/problem. Maybe this can be made into a sticky since commercial modding is getting popular.

"The Bog Standard" - A good enough amplifier for the rest of us

Well... Here goes nothing!

I've been reluctant to do this out of fear of ridicule. You see, I'm not a very experienced designer and the design I'm about to present is a pretty mundane Class AB job.

But lately I've seen beginners on various forums struggle with designs that require exotic and/or obsolete components or designs that require very stable power supplies and careful thermal management. I've also seen people having a tough time with what's clearly outdated or outright bad designs that are floating around. So based on that, I thought a fellow beginner might find this thread useful.

I decided to share a decent amplifier that can be built using cheap components that are readily available from almost any source. It uses only 2N5551/5401, BD139 and IRFP(9)240 transistors, some 1N4148 diodes, a couple of 5V zeners and a smattering of capacitors and resistors. That's it! It runs fairly cool, does fantastic with a modest 40mA bias current and has a net negative temperature coefficient with regard to bias if you're careful with the thermal transfer between the VBE multiplier and the output MOSFETs. It physical tests, it's fairly flat past 100kHz at 50% power and gets a decent 0.003% THD at 80% power and 1kHz in simulations. I don't have the equipment to measure an accurate physical THD, but just eyeballing it on the scope, it's definitely <0.1% and probably a lot less. Nothing compared to the Class A masterpieces some people here are building, but enough to sound pretty nice. The way it's drawn it should be good up to 50W with the right heatsink.

It's also very forgiving in terms of component values and (probably) layout. I've messed around in SPICE, and it takes real work to make it misbehave. You can even mess up the matching of the LTP transistors quite badly without it throwing a fit. It also has a >70 degree phase margin in simulations and would probably do fine with a lower Miller capacitance if someone wants faster performance. I've tried it with 8ohm and 6ohm speakers, and based on simulations it should have no problem at all with 4ohm as long as you're staying within a reasonable power (50W). The gain is 23x (27dB), which is a bit low for regular line level. You could probably bump it up a bit, but I'd probably recommend a pre-amp instead. I haven't checked the stability with a higher gain.

This design has been built and sounds and measures well. Audiophile quality? Probably not, but good enough to "open up" music I've listened to many times before and letting me discover new details.

I'll share the schematic and also a Github repo with all the design and simulation files, along with some ideas on how to build and test it. If you're a beginner, feel free to try it or just borrow ideas and inspiration. And if you're an experienced designer, I'm happy to listen to ideas for improvement. You can even clone the repo and send me a pull request if you want to contribute. But please be gentle! 🙂

There are a few things I'd like to change when I get a chance. The pot on the long tail can be replaced with fixed resistors and the terminal block for the speakers on the middle of the board is awkward. But it's buildable and works well in its current form. You could (and probably should) add speaker protection and maybe a preamp and some tone controls.

The repo: https://github.com/prydin/classab-amp-mosfet

I hope you'll find my humble contribution valuable in some way. And be gentle on me!

[EDIT: Updated the schematic with a protection diode for the VAS to avoid disasters... Also removed the DC offset pot, since it doesn't do much due to the current mirror]

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NAD C355 adjust procedure

Good morning.
I have a NAD C355bee amplifier, which actually works very well and sounds great.
However, just out of curiosity, since the amplifier is already 15 years old, I tried to measure the Idle current and isc circuit parameters.
In the service manual it refers to a value of 6mV for idle current, however, I measured a value of 8mV (after the amplifier had been on for 20 minutes), in both channels (to be precise 8mV L channel and 8.1mV R channel).
Can these values still be considered normal or do they need calibration as reported in the manual (6mV)?

For the calibration of the ISC circuit I did not understand well how to proceed.
The manual indicates "adjust the pot VR3 to make the DC voltage of the point of TP10 to the same as TP11".
If I measure TP10 (one tip on TP10 and one on ground) I get 56.5mV
If I measure TP11 (one tip on TP11 and one on ground) I get 19.5mV
If I measure TP10 + TP11 (one tip on TP10 and one on TP11) I get 34.7.

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I have not touched any potentiometers yet, and before I do (if necessary), I would like to understand..

Thanks very much!

HDI-3600 Crossover Upgrade - JBL with Mundorf

Hi guys, I have a new-to-me pair of HDI-3600 and would like to turn a great pair of speakers into a super pair of speakers. Having a look at the stock crossovers, lots of room for improvement, I think JBL could have done a better job frankly given the cost of these - no-name electrolytics (par for the course) and no-name film which appear entry level in the HF.
Question is, moving these caps and resistors to Mundorf options leave me with small variances in values.

I am not thinking these variances would make any significant difference, but interested in folks’ opinions. Would these small differences add up, what about the resistors?

Here is what I am looking at - replacement value + originating value for both caps and resistors:

Product+value_________________Original Value_________________Application

MCap Supreme
1.8uF(600V) _ _ ___________________ 1.8uF__________________________HF

MCap Supreme
3.9uF(600V) _______________________ 4uF___________________________HF

MCap EVO
22.0uF(450V)______________________ 24uF__________________________HF

MCap MKP (250V)
15.0uF(250V) ______________________15uF__________________________LF

MCap MKP (250V)
22.0uF(250V)_______________________23uF__________________________LF

MCap EVO
6.8uF(450V) ____________________6.2 & 6.8 uF___________________HF & LF

MCap EVO
15.0uF(450V )_______________________14uF_________________________HF

MR10 Metal-Oxide Film Resistor
2.2Ohm_________________________10W2R4J________________________HF

MR10 Metal-Oxide Film Resistor
3.9 ______________________________10W4R3J________________________HF

MRES20 MResist Supreme Resistor
10Ohm _________________________25W10RJ________________________ HF

Any thoughts or wisdom from experience? Notice I am considering vanilla MKP on LF and Supreme/EVOs on HF..

Thanks!

AM/FM Stereo Synthesizer Tuner Fisher T-2421 (or FM-2421)

Hello, I have got this Fisher AM/FM Stereo Synthesizer tuner from around 1980 for many years now. At some point long ago it started to produce audible distortion with all Stereo stations, independent of signal strength. It works fine if switched to Mono mode and all functions are OK, like auto tuning, store, mute and LED's. Because of the slow increase in distortion over time I think it must be a (typical?) component loosing or changeing its value. I noticed an identical problem on other vintage tuners too.
The stereo containing frequency seems to be one or two digits away from the maximum strength frequency. Like I get a stereo light at 91.00 and maximum undistorted Mono at 90.20

Does anyone have an idea what to look for? I have found no service manual, so I did not open it yet. I dislike turning anything inside without a plan. I got a scope and all the usual stuff for electronics, but I'm kind of fixed on amps, my knowledge of tuners is very near to zero. Next I would mark the positions of the adjustable coils and watch for any change turning them a little, but that will be a last try before disposing it.
Would be great to get some hint what to look for and a pointer to a service manual.

Thank you.

Stripped-Down Current Dumping

I have designed couple current dumping amps. They have a common problem, too complicated. I never had the courage to actually build one.

I hope this my last attempt. I minimize all the unimportant parts and meanwhile retain the performance.

It has couple features that the original Quad 405 does not have.
1. Include the transistor Q2 in the opamp negative feedback. It creates a "super transistor" that has almost 0 impedance at the emitter.
2. I move all the gain to the output stage, The opamp works at unity gain. It simplifies the circuitry around the opamp. Also you can get most of performance out of the opamp. As you can see, I got 0.002% THD with LM358. It could be lower if switching to better one.

I leave the final stage 0 biased. I feel it isn't worth the effort to bias the final stage just to get the thd down to 0.001%.

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Edit: 01/02/2025, overhaul the design.

Advantages of Series Crossover vs Parallel for Subs & Open Baffle

A rarely discussed crossover is the Series Crossover (in contrast to the universally popular Parallel Crossover). It offers considerable advantages especially with a subwoofer and a bass midrange. I used a series passive crossover in the Bitches Brew Live Edge Dipoles (which are featured in the new October 2023 issue of AudioXpress). Here is the schematic:

bitches brew series crossover filter slopes.png


ABOVE: In a series crossover, you wire the woofer and midrange in series. You short the woofer with a capacitor. You short the midrange with an inductor.

The circuit above is what I used in the Bitches Brew design. The Bitches Brew has (2) SB Acoustics 15OB350 subwoofers and (1) B&C 15CXN88 coax used as a bass midrange. Note the reverse polarity of the midrange; usually but not always required.

This is in contrast to the usual, BELOW, where the woofer is in series with an inductor and the midrange in series with a capacitor (and both sections in parallel).

bitches brew parallel standard crossover.png


ABOVE: Look closely because this is super interesting.

I'm showing the woofer half of the coax. I'm using actual measured impedance of the drivers in my model, and showing the filter voltage at the driver terminals. The parallel circuit above is not "optimized" for anything except to illustrate the problems with standard parallel crossovers. It just happens to have the same values I used in the series circuit.

In the subwoofer section, the inductor interacts with the impedance of the 15OB350s to create a peak around 50Hz. Then it rolls off above 100Hz.

In the midrange section, the capacitor interacts with the impedance of the 15CXN88s to create a dip at 100Hz, followed by a 6dB peak at 35Hz. Very bad!!! This +5.5dB peak at 35Hz is HIGHLY undesirable and happens ALL THE TIME in subwoofer-mid passive xovers. The reactance of the capacitor cancels the inductance of the bass-mid just below the bass-mid resonance and creates a peak exactly where you least want it.

(The average speaker designer is likely not aware that a passive crossover can BOOST, rather than cut the voltage below the crossover frequency! I discuss this phenomenon in detail in the thread Open Baffle Bass Boost: +4 to +7dB w/ Passive Xover, No DSP where I show some cool ways to use this to your advantage. Especially in dipoles.)

Usually, nobody aware it is even going on. You build a 100Hz crossover for your subwoofer and satellite and you don't even know the satellites are getting a few dB EXTRA bass at, say, 60Hz. Right where it's most harmful.

There is no easy fix for this in a conventional parallel crossover.

However in a series crossover all of the impedance peaks work in your favor instead of against you.

bitches brew series crossover filter slopes close-up.png


#1: The impedance peak of the subwoofer cuts the signal received by the bass-mid by over 20dB at 28Hz. Which is exactly where we most want to protect it. Don't forget, this is 'just a 6dB per octave crossover' yet the electrical slope between 60Hz and 30Hz is closer to 24dB per octave (!) which is fantastic. It's effectively a steep 18dB shelf filter.

#2: The impedance peak of the bass-midrange (which is about 60Hz) interacts with the crossover to boost response 3dB. While this is not desirable per se, the roll off above that point is immediate. In my opinion, the mild 6dB/octave slope above 100Hz helps the subs blend better with the mids.

I corrected the peak at 60Hz with DSP. In most bass-mid crossovers, the midrange would have a higher resonant frequency than 60Hz and would be even easier to work with.

bitches brew series crossover impedance.png

Above: Impedance of the circuit. In this design the 60Hz 2ohm minimum is OK for me. It's possible to choose different crossover values to achieve a higher Zminimum. Actual measurement is below (I've added a Zobel to flatten the impedance.)

bitches brew woofer section impedance.png

In an earlier discussion with @Lynn Olson we discussed the difficulty of getting subwoofers and bass-mids to seamlessly integrate. This is a very good way to do it especially because the cone sizes are all the same. In this design, both subs and bass-mid are 15" and both in the same dipole array.

bitches_brew_2887+s.jpg

The Bitches Brews are bi-amped with DSP, with the active crossover between the coax midrange and tweeter. I could have triamped them, but I felt that a series crossover as shown here was much more simple and elegant. Fewer amps, fewer DSP channels, fewer signal cables and speaker cables.

I feel air core inductors are worth the extra money for an "ultimate" no compromise design like this; I didn't want the hysteresis of iron core inductors. So I used Madisound air core copper foil inductors with DCR below 0.6 ohm (low DCR is very important, the higher the DCR the less attenuation of low frequencies that you get in the midrange signal).

That's especially important in this design, because the DSP boosts low bass 12-15dB around 30Hz and the deep notch in the midrange filter is very desirable there. I can shove hundreds of watts at 30Hz into these, and the midrange cone only moves +/- 1mm or 2mm.

The Bitches Brew has one of the most seamless crossovers I've ever heard. The acoustic crossover between subs and mids is at about 90Hz, all the cones are 13" in diameter, and the coax tweeter integrates perfectly with the midrange. The radiation pattern is extremely well behaved and there are no lobing problems at any frequency.

bitches+brew_polar_150-20K_15dBrange_+-90_third-oct.jpg

Above: Measured polar response, +/-90 degrees, 1/3 octave. I don't have a good way to measure these at low frequencies, but VituixCad calculations are below.

bitches brew vertical directivity.png

Above: VituixCad vertical directivity calculations for 2x 15OB350 and 1x 15CXN88. Variation is only about +/-2dB.

Expanded details on the Bitches Brew crossover are here. @Yourmando

subwoofer enclosure Focal

I have an old Focal 11v7601db element, which I was thinking of building a box for, I found a program online to calculate the box size (42.92 liters Vent diameter 5cm lenght 16.97 ) can it be correct?

Fs :25,57HzMms :108,09gg
Re :2,60ΩCms :3,6E-04m/N
Qes :0,40Bl :10,62 N/AN/A
Qms :12,89Vas :54,84l
Qts :0,39No :85,4 dBdB/W/m
D :20,50cmSd :330,06cm2
Inductance :2.09mHXmax :8,0mm

Gallien Krueger 2000 CPL

Novice here. Looking into 80s rack preamp GK 2000 CPL. It has a single input, 2 switchable channels, stereo outputs, and built in compressor, reverb & chorus. It sounds killer. I'm trying to answer the question: where in the circuit does this amplifier turn from mono into stereo, and what exactly is the stereo effect/content - i.e. how are the left & right channels different.

I attached a PDF with the amp's circuit. As far as I can tell, the whole guitar signal chain (first page), incl. the compressor, up to and not including the FX is all mono. The signal lead labelled "D" feeds into a four circuits (2nd page): dry-lo, dry-hi, chorus, and reverb that all end in a kind of stereo mixer. Signal lead "E" feeds the reverb gate circuit.

Observations/questions - correct me if I've misunderstood anything:
  1. I can't figure out the difference between dry-lo and dry-hi. Really curious about that split. Is that a frequency split or a volume split?
  2. Unless I'm missing something, the chorus seems to operate entirely in mono, which is different than i.e., the ADA MP1, a popular comparable preamp from the same era, where the original signal is split into 2, one gets mixed with the chorus signal, and the other as well but with its chorus component phase shifted by 180°. I couldn't tell if there's any phase shift on the L or R channels of the chorus on the 2000CPL.
  3. The reverb seems to be the only circuit doing actually doing something in stereo. It seems that the 6 taps of the MN3011 BBD chip (each providing a different timing window) are divided between the left and right channels. I am not an expert but maybe that gives an expanded stereo reverb image.
  4. But then later, in page 3, we can see both balanced and unbalanced sets of outputs have a mono/stereo switch each. I am not familiar with their symbol for switch, and can't really figure out what happens with either switch in mono mode.
  5. Beyond that, it seems the output circuits of either L/R channel are identical in both balanced/unbalanced circuits. I couldn't identify if there's any kind of phase shifting or other shenanigans going on.
Any input is greatly appreciated!

Edit: Figured I attach the schematics here as images
1741815012524.png

1741815110634.png

1741815133834.png

Attachments

Subwoofer enclosure Focal

I have an old Focal 11v7601db element, which I was thinking of building a box for, I found a program online to calculate the box size (42.92 liters Vent diameter 5cm lenght 16.97 ) can it be correct?

Fs :25,57HzMms :108,09gg
Re :2,60ΩCms :3,6E-04m/N
Qes :0,40Bl :10,62 N/AN/A
Qms :12,89Vas :54,84l
Qts :0,39No :85,4 dBdB/W/m
D :20,50cmSd :330,06cm2
Inductance :2.09mHXmax :8,0mm

Variation on the JC-2 preamplifier

I recently purchased the JC-2 preamp kit that tubeshunter is selling on eBay. I made some changes to the stock component values to improve performance and reliablility. I also increased the gain to a little over 20 dB.

The kit I purchased did not have idss matched jfets. I had several of the JFETs on hand and selected idss matched parts. The differential pairs were matched to 0.1 mA, and the n and p channels were as close as possible. It will work without matching the fets, but the offset and distortion will be higher.

It is stable into 1000 pF capacitive loads, and has a THD of .001% in the audio band.

If you assemble this kit, be sure to test the bipolar transistors. The ones I received had their pin out reversed from the silk screen shown on the board. The picture on the eBay listing shows them inserted reversed as well.

I hope someone finds this of some use.

Attachments

  • jc-2 circuit.jpg
    jc-2 circuit.jpg
    27.8 KB · Views: 12,131

Wall is back from WAR!

Hello friends!

Forgot my original sign in John, sorry, not sorry. This Maple Nut saved all our behinds with my knowledge of tech inventions and their history. You ALL have pattens pending on your designs and we are working to get the top tear DIY kits certified and into Vintage King and he new Canadian sister company Vintage Queen up and running that will become a part of L&M sometime in the future. VQ is being created in honour of the greatest Thermionic Valve Technicions in history Manley Laboratories Inc and Miss Manley.

Along with the Actual audio technicians in 1979 we banned the production of ALL tube, transistor, analog and solid state devices after a Earth Sound Research amp killed me on stage in 1978. We have been working for 46 years to eliminate the variant frequencies created by every mechanical device since the Patton of the first English tube was discredited and and infiltrate tube was patented creating 80:years of null harmonies that would have eventually killed us all. Miss Manley designed the MP with Dave imparting the math, but it is 100% her design with Dave as the LICENSED AUDIO ENGINEER who eventually signed off on her certification and MLI was born.

I created the math to help engineers create the first computer chip, ADDA, Apple, Logic, the Massive Passive, Unreal Enine, Wwise and Dolby Atmos to name a few. I’m broke lol, but never needed money but do need your help getting the Patten Corporation up and running.

As it stands POTUS and Parliment are 100% behind this initiative. If you don,t want to get sued add yourself to this list and we can open a line of dialogue and have some fun.

One Love
Dr. Black PHD, Kinetic Engineer (Wall)

You should thank Mr. Thompson Bell, Graf, Brian Roth and Doug.

Shanling CR60 how to open

Dear DIYers does anyone know how to open a Shanling CR60 CD transport?
I have a slightly modified Tempo ec1b CD player that sounds better fuller and cleaner.
I have tried to open the CR60 but did not succeed.
A different linear power supply makes a difference but not enough the Tempo
CD player when used as a transport still sounds better.
I hope to be able to upgrade the inner power supply and perhaps the clock.
Anyone tried with success?
Thanks

Revox B77 Mk2 new heads adjustment problems

Hi everyone.
I finished the basic preparation for converting my b77 from 4 tracks to 2 tracks.
The reproduce pcb was more or less similar, bought a used 2 track oscillator pcb and carefully made the needed changes for the transformation on the recording pcb ( quite harder than the reproduce one since there are some differences to the 4 track one).

I found some quite good prices for all 3 (play, rec, erase) 2 track heads (used ones) and i placed them on the headblock. Soldering and re wiring was a breeze. Used clear tape for initial allignment.
Monitor amp check (first step of the manual calibration process) went fine and it works perfectly well.

Then i started with the calibration of the playback head and i came across the first issue. I’m using a basic calibration tape that was very good for successful calibration of the 4 track playback head.
But now with the 2 track head when the switch is set to stereo there is no signal coming in the right channel. The mono section of the switch works perfectly well.
Tried to change the head cables (green where yellow goes) and then i only have left. So it’s not an issue of a faulty head or bad pcb connections, but rather something else either with the initial head adjustment (height or zenith - never done it before and there is no real guide on how to do it properly) or the calibration tape is not appropriate for 2 tracks.

Any advice would be much appreciated. I think i may need some more down thevroad. But this step,as you may know, is really important.
Thanks in advance

At my whit's end with this one... Pro-Ject Classic SB Turntable repair

All,

I bought this turntable for $150, with the knowledge that it did not "turn on". It's a $2k turntable new and after research, I found the replacement parts for about $250. So, all in, I figure I'd have a roughly $2k turntable for about $400, after repair (so I thought!)

Anyway, I have now replaced all electronic parts of this turntable (Power PCB, Speed Control PCB, Motor, and new power supply 15V DC). After connecting all the new parts together, outside of the turn table casing, it still does not power on. Regardless of the turntable, these parts should at least power on, right? I am posting pics of the new parts connected and the 15v DC power supply and picture of the back of the turntable asking for DC power. Any thoughts of what else I could try with this thing?

IMG_7020.jpeg
IMG_7021.jpeg
IMG_7081.jpeg
IMG_6968.jpeg

BMS 4592 vs Radian Beryllium

I am thinking of upgrading the mids on my 3-way horn system to a Volti FC260 tractrix, but am undecided on the driver. Many phenomenal systems have been built using the BMS 4592ND-MID (around $650 each), so that is a top contender. Much of what I read, and a little of what I have physically auditioned, however swears by Beryllium... which seem significantly absent from posts. Admittedly that was with Classic Audio Systems that had not only Beryllium but also field coil drivers Beryllium plus field coil is out of my price range - and it's impossible to separate variables. Looking at new Beryllium, Radian drivers look amazing... except for the prices: 760NEOBePB at $850 each, or the 950BePB at $1100. True, that is a big increase, but in the long run... in for a penny in for a pound. Three years from now I will have forgotten about the extra money. So... anyone out there have insights or experience on this? I am probably willing to spend the dough, but would rather not unless truly a significant step up. I tri-amp so efficiency is not an issue, and I am satisfied with all other specs.
Thanks.

LM1875 w/ 16 ohm output?

I'm having a hard time figuring out how T2 gives a 16 ohm output but the amp is lm1875 which is 4 or 8 ohms out according to datasheet.

I'm picturing T2 as an autotransformer but considering the amp is well designed for a 8 ohm speaker and there's a tap for 8 but but coming off the main output is 16 ohm?

If I only use 8ohm speaker, I can't just remove T2 completely right?
20250315_080116.jpg

More than anything I guess I'm tring to figure the role of T2.
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