All scrap/trash subwoofer enclosure
- By wickette
- Construction Tips
- 9 Replies
Not a question, just something I attempted that came out really well.
I got a 15y/o 6.5" Samsung subwoofer from town trash. Orig enclosure was on its back in a puddle...not usable.
Not worth spending cash or even waste new plywood on. So I decided to try to make an enclosure out of left over scrap. That fits snuggle in my shelving unit.
I Used:
-24"x13" piece of sheathing plywood left over from fixing my roof.
-A 15" sqyare piece of 1/8" sanded plywood left from skinning my fish tank stand.
-the drawer from a child's maple night stand
-A childs floating bookshelf
-base is cut from heavy MDF kitchen cabinet toe kick/trim.
-scraps of left over 2"x4"s and 1"x3"s
-used left over paint from the bathroom
-used $1 store drywall screws (2.33¢ per screw, my low expectations meant 6¢ wood screws would be a waste)
-used $1 stire latex caulk to seal
-I kept the original cardboard 2.5" port tube, Incase it got damp/weak I dried overnight with a fan. sanded both sides, painted the inside with enamel paint. Reinforced it's outside with pva glue and a paper tube/roll
Wires and clip -port taken out of a different speaker from the trash
It (alone) is powered by a 100w+50w*2 tpa2116d2 because receiver needs an active sub. All other speakers are passive.
It works pretty well.
Only caveat is: it originally had no crossovers/filters. Receiver doesn't have separate subwoofer except for volume. Was hoping the the drivers natural roll off pkus bass frequency tunning knob on the TPA3116 would be enough of a low pass filter but it's still too loud at 1.5khz.
I think I need to add an inductor.
EDIT
*PS check out the bumble bees painted on the green shelf mdf inside.
*PSS don't use a table saw to cut 1" strips of wood into 0.5" strips of wood. I have a few thousand dollars in medicals bills and 9.75 fingers left making this $2 enclosure (but that's my recklessness, not the enclosures fault)
I got a 15y/o 6.5" Samsung subwoofer from town trash. Orig enclosure was on its back in a puddle...not usable.
Not worth spending cash or even waste new plywood on. So I decided to try to make an enclosure out of left over scrap. That fits snuggle in my shelving unit.
I Used:
-24"x13" piece of sheathing plywood left over from fixing my roof.
-A 15" sqyare piece of 1/8" sanded plywood left from skinning my fish tank stand.
-the drawer from a child's maple night stand
-A childs floating bookshelf
-base is cut from heavy MDF kitchen cabinet toe kick/trim.
-scraps of left over 2"x4"s and 1"x3"s
-used left over paint from the bathroom
-used $1 store drywall screws (2.33¢ per screw, my low expectations meant 6¢ wood screws would be a waste)
-used $1 stire latex caulk to seal
-I kept the original cardboard 2.5" port tube, Incase it got damp/weak I dried overnight with a fan. sanded both sides, painted the inside with enamel paint. Reinforced it's outside with pva glue and a paper tube/roll
Wires and clip -port taken out of a different speaker from the trash
It (alone) is powered by a 100w+50w*2 tpa2116d2 because receiver needs an active sub. All other speakers are passive.
It works pretty well.
Only caveat is: it originally had no crossovers/filters. Receiver doesn't have separate subwoofer except for volume. Was hoping the the drivers natural roll off pkus bass frequency tunning knob on the TPA3116 would be enough of a low pass filter but it's still too loud at 1.5khz.
I think I need to add an inductor.
EDIT
*PS check out the bumble bees painted on the green shelf mdf inside.
*PSS don't use a table saw to cut 1" strips of wood into 0.5" strips of wood. I have a few thousand dollars in medicals bills and 9.75 fingers left making this $2 enclosure (but that's my recklessness, not the enclosures fault)
Cost per displacement.
- By KaffiMann
- Subwoofers
- 8 Replies
Most cheap low xmax 15" even with stamped steel frames are over 100$ here now, I can probably get some cast frame 6mm xmax Fane Sovereign Pro 15-600 for 135$ + taxes.
The end-of-line Beyma 15MC700 are still 230$ before taxes and shipping, looking like a steal compared to some other things.
Anything with good xmax AND cast frame is getting really expensive.
Cheaper to get some half decent 18" these days, B&C 18RBX100 is looking like a viable option, very tempting to get some SB Audience Bianco-18SW450 though I am not sure what kind of box to make for those.
12"s completely unsuitable for bass are catching up with moderately expensive 15"s from the same time last year, or even cheap 18"s like the previously mentioned 18SW450.
The US of Ay does not seem to be affected to the same degree just yet, maybe later this year.
Conclusion:
Been trying to look at Beyma, Faital, Mica, 18Sound +++
So far it seems like the most displacement per buck is the SB Audience Bianco-18SW450 at 123 Euro, any contenders?
http://www.sbaudience.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/bianco-18sw450/
The end-of-line Beyma 15MC700 are still 230$ before taxes and shipping, looking like a steal compared to some other things.
Anything with good xmax AND cast frame is getting really expensive.
Cheaper to get some half decent 18" these days, B&C 18RBX100 is looking like a viable option, very tempting to get some SB Audience Bianco-18SW450 though I am not sure what kind of box to make for those.
12"s completely unsuitable for bass are catching up with moderately expensive 15"s from the same time last year, or even cheap 18"s like the previously mentioned 18SW450.
The US of Ay does not seem to be affected to the same degree just yet, maybe later this year.
Conclusion:
Been trying to look at Beyma, Faital, Mica, 18Sound +++
So far it seems like the most displacement per buck is the SB Audience Bianco-18SW450 at 123 Euro, any contenders?
http://www.sbaudience.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/bianco-18sw450/
Sub DIY Planning RSS390HE-22 Subwoofer + Passive Radiator good idea? or better sealed.
- By Erdbeere
- Subwoofers
- 4 Replies
Hello,
I am planning to do my first Subwoofer Project and I think I need some advice
Planned is a 130 liter case 480 x 480 x 700 mm. 18mm MDF (Part express recommandation 127L)
2x 70 mm bars 2x each side to stiffen the long sides.
Passive Radiator on the Backside, same axis as the sub.
To me it doesn´t look that wierd. Actually I am running a SVS SB 2000 and think about trying it myself to build a good sub.
What do you think about that? Should I go sealed (60-65L) and adjust it to my desire with a DSP or go for Passive radiator and DSP and might have a harder time to adjust?
Usage is like 70% home cinema / 30 % Music.
Thanks in advance.
I am planning to do my first Subwoofer Project and I think I need some advice
Dayton Audio RSS390HE-22 Subwoofer 15 inch
Dayton Audio RSS460-PR 18 inch with 8x75g weight
Planned is a 130 liter case 480 x 480 x 700 mm. 18mm MDF (Part express recommandation 127L)
2x 70 mm bars 2x each side to stiffen the long sides.
Passive Radiator on the Backside, same axis as the sub.
To me it doesn´t look that wierd. Actually I am running a SVS SB 2000 and think about trying it myself to build a good sub.
What do you think about that? Should I go sealed (60-65L) and adjust it to my desire with a DSP or go for Passive radiator and DSP and might have a harder time to adjust?
Usage is like 70% home cinema / 30 % Music.
Thanks in advance.
I tried to improve the sound of an Anker Soundcore 2 by redesigning the speaker housing, 3D printing it & testing
- By thatdutchguy
- Everything Else
- 2 Replies
Hi everyone,
With this post i would like to share some things i learned while trying to improve the sound of a Bluetooth speaker. I have done this in the context of a project for my bachelor mechanical engineering. We had to create a small project ourselves, preferably about something that you didn't have any previous experience with. Sound is only briefly touched upon in our study and only in the sense of the dynamics of vibration.
I wanted to try to do a enclosure design inspired by HexiBase's video's on YouTube. Little did i know that this is pretty hard to do.
I started out with a lot of research about different speaker enclosures, but I wont bore you with that.
I wanted to try to improve the Anker Soundcore 2. A cheap Bluetooth speaker which sounds okay in my opinion. It uses a passive radiator paired with 2 1.5" 5 watt, 3 Ohm speakers in a small water-resistant package. At first i wanted to make a transmission-line style speaker, but i soon found out that it is important to know the properties of the drivers that are being used. As mentioned before the Soundcore 2 uses 2 small 5 watt speakers, but this is all the info i could find. The speakers have some numbers printed on them, but i cant seem to find any info on them via Google.
The transmission-line housing was out the window at this point, so i settled for an open baffle housing. This would be a very easy enclosure to design and it wouldn't be necessary to know all the important properties of the drivers. In CAD I designed a very simple square shaped baffle with geometry in the middle to perfectly fit the drivers. The baffle was 200x200mm, because this would comfortably fit on the bed of my Ender 3 printer. The housing's were printed in white PLA with 20% infill. Overall the prints took 13 hours.
When these were printed i assembled them and spliced open an old USB cable to get some wire to extend the original wires. When this was done i tested them to see if everything turned out the way i wanted to.
Then i wanted to test the "redesign" to compare it to the original Soundcore 2. Unfortunately i don't have access to an anechoic chamber or the professional equipment needed to perform these correctly, but i reckoned that i could do the 2 measurements with the stuff that i have on hand. Since both measurements will be flawed in approximately the same way i could at least compare the two and see the impact of the changed enclosure design.
Some of the reasons why my measurements could be flawed are:
The software i used for this was Arta. This is a pretty extensive software which you can use to test all kinds of stuff related to audio, but i only used the option to test the frequency response. Arta offers a paid version and a demo version. The demo version doesn't let you save files, but it still lets you export data to a excel which was enough for me, so luckily it didn't cost me anything. For the microphone i used a nameless boom microphone that i had laying around. The results i got were very useable and allowed me to learn some things about my new open baffle speakers.
As open baffle speakers have a pretty big bass rolloff i wanted to predict the frequency at which this would occur. As the baffle was 200mm wide my calculations said that the bas would start to rolloff at 135 Hz. However, as you can see the bass rolloff starts way earlier at around 240 Hz, the reason for which I'm not quiet sure. What I found quiet interesting to see is that the upper range treble seems to be better presented with the open baffle design. Something I didn't test, but I heard quite noticeable was the improved soundstage with the open baffle speakers.
If you would like some more info on this small project feel free to ask them. Any tips on how i could have done things differently of better are welcome!
With this post i would like to share some things i learned while trying to improve the sound of a Bluetooth speaker. I have done this in the context of a project for my bachelor mechanical engineering. We had to create a small project ourselves, preferably about something that you didn't have any previous experience with. Sound is only briefly touched upon in our study and only in the sense of the dynamics of vibration.
I wanted to try to do a enclosure design inspired by HexiBase's video's on YouTube. Little did i know that this is pretty hard to do.
I started out with a lot of research about different speaker enclosures, but I wont bore you with that.
I wanted to try to improve the Anker Soundcore 2. A cheap Bluetooth speaker which sounds okay in my opinion. It uses a passive radiator paired with 2 1.5" 5 watt, 3 Ohm speakers in a small water-resistant package. At first i wanted to make a transmission-line style speaker, but i soon found out that it is important to know the properties of the drivers that are being used. As mentioned before the Soundcore 2 uses 2 small 5 watt speakers, but this is all the info i could find. The speakers have some numbers printed on them, but i cant seem to find any info on them via Google.
The transmission-line housing was out the window at this point, so i settled for an open baffle housing. This would be a very easy enclosure to design and it wouldn't be necessary to know all the important properties of the drivers. In CAD I designed a very simple square shaped baffle with geometry in the middle to perfectly fit the drivers. The baffle was 200x200mm, because this would comfortably fit on the bed of my Ender 3 printer. The housing's were printed in white PLA with 20% infill. Overall the prints took 13 hours.
When these were printed i assembled them and spliced open an old USB cable to get some wire to extend the original wires. When this was done i tested them to see if everything turned out the way i wanted to.
Then i wanted to test the "redesign" to compare it to the original Soundcore 2. Unfortunately i don't have access to an anechoic chamber or the professional equipment needed to perform these correctly, but i reckoned that i could do the 2 measurements with the stuff that i have on hand. Since both measurements will be flawed in approximately the same way i could at least compare the two and see the impact of the changed enclosure design.
Some of the reasons why my measurements could be flawed are:
- No anechoic chamber; The resonances and reflections of my room affect the measurement
- No calibrated microphone: I don't know the frequency response of the microphone, so the microphone colors the results
- My room doesn't have a lot of space behind the speakers, so the open baffle speakers suffer more from the reflections than the Soundcore 2
The software i used for this was Arta. This is a pretty extensive software which you can use to test all kinds of stuff related to audio, but i only used the option to test the frequency response. Arta offers a paid version and a demo version. The demo version doesn't let you save files, but it still lets you export data to a excel which was enough for me, so luckily it didn't cost me anything. For the microphone i used a nameless boom microphone that i had laying around. The results i got were very useable and allowed me to learn some things about my new open baffle speakers.
As open baffle speakers have a pretty big bass rolloff i wanted to predict the frequency at which this would occur. As the baffle was 200mm wide my calculations said that the bas would start to rolloff at 135 Hz. However, as you can see the bass rolloff starts way earlier at around 240 Hz, the reason for which I'm not quiet sure. What I found quiet interesting to see is that the upper range treble seems to be better presented with the open baffle design. Something I didn't test, but I heard quite noticeable was the improved soundstage with the open baffle speakers.
If you would like some more info on this small project feel free to ask them. Any tips on how i could have done things differently of better are welcome!
Replacing vintage “epoxy blob” LEDs
- By efm7
- Solid State
- 4 Replies
I recently picked up a Nikko NA-700II with a defective LED VU meter.
I’ve traced the problem down to dead LEDs… now the problem is… i’m not sure what to replace these with as they just appear to be a bare die on the PCB with a bit of clear epoxy blob on top. I assume i can scrape it off and replace it with a 402 SMD LED in its place.
Problem is that i’m not sure what sort of specs I should be looking for (forward volts, mcd, test current, etc…) I don’t want the replacements to be too bright or draw too much current…
My only hint is that is that the supply voltage is about 10VDC and there’s an 820 ohm resistor in-line on the middle LED that’s just a power indicator. I figure a 3v chip should be ok?
I’ve traced the problem down to dead LEDs… now the problem is… i’m not sure what to replace these with as they just appear to be a bare die on the PCB with a bit of clear epoxy blob on top. I assume i can scrape it off and replace it with a 402 SMD LED in its place.
Problem is that i’m not sure what sort of specs I should be looking for (forward volts, mcd, test current, etc…) I don’t want the replacements to be too bright or draw too much current…
My only hint is that is that the supply voltage is about 10VDC and there’s an 820 ohm resistor in-line on the middle LED that’s just a power indicator. I figure a 3v chip should be ok?
Adcom GFP-565 Treble Potentiometer replacement
Looking for recommendations on sourcing a replacement potentiometer for Adcom GFP-565 Treble pot VR203 which is a 4tr 1742 20k bx2
Symptom = Left channel treble adjustment has no effect. Right channel works as expected.
I used my meter and measured the pot. It is open on the left channel. I tried some Deoxit but that didn't help at all.
Thanks for your consideration and advice.
-Steve
Symptom = Left channel treble adjustment has no effect. Right channel works as expected.
I used my meter and measured the pot. It is open on the left channel. I tried some Deoxit but that didn't help at all.
Thanks for your consideration and advice.
-Steve
SB Acoustics SB10PGC21-4 (3" Full-Range) / normal version and magnet added version.
- By nandappe
- Full Range
- 52 Replies
Attachments
REW a*b offset issue ?
- By pet007
- Software Tools
- 12 Replies
Hi, please I'm completely confused with REW (5.20.13) basic A*B operation result. I'm trying to multiply my response (nierfiled + port) with bafflestep response (generated by Diffraction & Boundary Simulator 1.30 aka DBS). All each freq. responses seem to be ok, as well as DBS .FRD output - see attached pic. But when I make A*B - (NF+port) * BF.frd the result is strange. It's not possible to have more then -6dB difference in final response, but there is more, about -8dB@100Hz. What's wrong here ? It seems, there is an 3dB offset - very suspicious number, isn't it ? 😉
Thanks a lot.
Edit. For ex. here is using the same method to join responses.
Thanks a lot.
Edit. For ex. here is using the same method to join responses.
Zapco HDSP-Z16V with AKM 4490 DAC on 8 of 16 channels
I’m selling my Zapco HDSP-Z16V DSP which is originally designed for car audio. The system is very modular and I upgraded the stock DAC on the first 8 of 16 channels to the AKM 4490. This unit can also be upgraded to ESS 9038Pro for around $750 if you so desire. The unit is in good condition and 100% functional. I broke the door off of the optical port changing cables so had the optical port replaced but had to source component with a slightly larger footprint. This means there was a modification made to the input panel to accommodate the larger footprint. There are a couple of small scratches on the name badge as can be seen in photos. This is a great solution for DIY speakers and prototyping. I now use a computer sound card for my prototyping and prefer building passive speakers still🙂 This is a great sounding unit. Asking $1300 with free insured shipping in continental US.
Krohn Hite 4400 (ultra low dist. sine osc.)
- By redrabbit
- Equipment & Tools
- 19 Replies
I bought a pair of Krohn Hite units for $100 total.
5800 function generator
4400 Ultra Low Distortion Oscillator
Neither had their fuses, and with new fuses, lights came on but both failed produce a signal.
Easy fix for both though.... the PSU electro caps and all tantalum caps were replaced.....and both came to life.
I bought the user/cal manual for the 5800. I cal'd it and it works well.
I cannot find the cal/schematic manual for the 4400.
This seems to be an early version, with 600 Ω outputs only. PC board date is 1980.....
![20230114_084145[1].jpg](https://www.diyaudio.com/community/data/attachments/1038/1038321-d78bdd37d46beed69eab5234deb0242e.jpg?hash=14vdN9Rr7t "20230114_084145[1].jpg")
![20230114_093311[1].jpg](https://www.diyaudio.com/community/data/attachments/1038/1038322-00370b0a6b9d2a3c9e6210f7087424fe.jpg?hash=ADcLCmudKj "20230114_093311[1].jpg")
The opamps employed are of the same era... glorified 741's and 300 series.....
MC1741 (x3)
LF13741 (x1)
LM310 (x1)
LM318 (x4)
....all directly soldered to the board, among a mixture of carbon and film resistors, etc.
Without a schematic or a Cal guide, I don't know how to adjust all the trimmers for lowest distortion.
I did pull the 741 types, and added sockets. Also, under the board I soldered some 100nf cer. caps to each power pin, to ground.
These opamps were lacking these, whereas the LM310's already have them.
![20230114_195325[1].jpg](https://www.diyaudio.com/community/data/attachments/1038/1038326-106ec87ea5c0195b235e1d3fdc61cedc.jpg?hash=EG7IfqXAGV "20230114_195325[1].jpg")
![20230114_195345[1].jpg](https://www.diyaudio.com/community/data/attachments/1038/1038327-6079bbca6b31d2b5bbe4bc7cbc37c442.jpg?hash=YHm7ymsx0r "20230114_195345[1].jpg")
Below, is the entire board, during the cap replacement, but before the 4 opamp swaps (on the left)
![20230114_083808[1].jpg](https://www.diyaudio.com/community/data/attachments/1038/1038329-dcf00787803f6b6a8fe417d679851094.jpg?hash=3PAHh4A_a2 "20230114_083808[1].jpg")
You might be able to see that i swapped to newer opamps,LF13741 AD845, MC1741 OP27. These were chosen from my spare chip collection.
There was an improvement, where the 2&3rd harmonics were now several dB lower.
The only way I can test distortion is using the FFT measurement on my R&S scope.
DC is removed via trimmers on the rear panel...obvious and easy.
I did not want to swap any of the 300-series opamps until I can find a proper manual and schematic. (I've looked everywhere).
That's where I stand. Anything you want to add is appreciated.
=R=
5800 function generator
4400 Ultra Low Distortion Oscillator
Neither had their fuses, and with new fuses, lights came on but both failed produce a signal.
Easy fix for both though.... the PSU electro caps and all tantalum caps were replaced.....and both came to life.
I bought the user/cal manual for the 5800. I cal'd it and it works well.
I cannot find the cal/schematic manual for the 4400.
This seems to be an early version, with 600 Ω outputs only. PC board date is 1980.....
The opamps employed are of the same era... glorified 741's and 300 series.....
MC1741 (x3)
LF13741 (x1)
LM310 (x1)
LM318 (x4)
....all directly soldered to the board, among a mixture of carbon and film resistors, etc.
Without a schematic or a Cal guide, I don't know how to adjust all the trimmers for lowest distortion.
I did pull the 741 types, and added sockets. Also, under the board I soldered some 100nf cer. caps to each power pin, to ground.
These opamps were lacking these, whereas the LM310's already have them.
Below, is the entire board, during the cap replacement, but before the 4 opamp swaps (on the left)
You might be able to see that i swapped to newer opamps,
There was an improvement, where the 2&3rd harmonics were now several dB lower.
The only way I can test distortion is using the FFT measurement on my R&S scope.
DC is removed via trimmers on the rear panel...obvious and easy.
I did not want to swap any of the 300-series opamps until I can find a proper manual and schematic. (I've looked everywhere).
That's where I stand. Anything you want to add is appreciated.
=R=
PCC85 vs ECC85
- By jcalvarez
- Tubes / Valves
- 9 Replies
Hello!
I was looking at the PCC85 curves, simulated a simple common cathode triode stage using an ECC85 model, and noticed that the anode voltage for the given bias was way off chart. First I blamed the model, but looking at the ECC85 datasheet I saw the curves are different from the PCC85, and both models I used matched the ECC85 curves. Both datasheets seem the original Phillips. Is that a fact that the tubes are that different, other than the obvious heater requirements?
Below the difference in anode voltage for a -3V bias, Ia 7.5mA, 262V vs 215V. I keep looking for the stupid mistake I may be doing but can't find it.
Regards,
Jose
I was looking at the PCC85 curves, simulated a simple common cathode triode stage using an ECC85 model, and noticed that the anode voltage for the given bias was way off chart. First I blamed the model, but looking at the ECC85 datasheet I saw the curves are different from the PCC85, and both models I used matched the ECC85 curves. Both datasheets seem the original Phillips. Is that a fact that the tubes are that different, other than the obvious heater requirements?
Below the difference in anode voltage for a -3V bias, Ia 7.5mA, 262V vs 215V. I keep looking for the stupid mistake I may be doing but can't find it.
Regards,
Jose
My first CFP power amp
- By hboetius
- Solid State
- 91 Replies
Hi all!
It has ben many years since my last post here, I guess some 20 years, I am now retired an have some more time to my Hobby.
I am working on this CFP, which causes me som troubles.
I would be wery thankful if any of you could give me a hint to solve my little problem.
I have attached files to give you an idea of my project.
Micro-Cap schematic:
Kicad schematic:
KiCad pcb
KiCad 3D
Pcb under test
Test setup:
Here is the problem:
1. When I power up the amp without speaker connected all is fine and dc off set at the output terminals is 70mV. After powering up I can connect the speaker and hear some music.
2. Powering up with the speaker connetcted causes the amp to draw a lot of current, and I have 6V on the terminals.
3. Powering up with a cap in series with the speaker, all is fine and I have music in the speaker.
4. Powering up with an 120 ohm resistor in series with the speaker also does the trick, with les music volume of cause.
I really would appreciate som help, please!
Henrik
It has ben many years since my last post here, I guess some 20 years, I am now retired an have some more time to my Hobby.
I am working on this CFP, which causes me som troubles.
I would be wery thankful if any of you could give me a hint to solve my little problem.
I have attached files to give you an idea of my project.
Micro-Cap schematic:
Kicad schematic:
KiCad pcb
KiCad 3D
Pcb under test
Test setup:
Here is the problem:
1. When I power up the amp without speaker connected all is fine and dc off set at the output terminals is 70mV. After powering up I can connect the speaker and hear some music.
2. Powering up with the speaker connetcted causes the amp to draw a lot of current, and I have 6V on the terminals.
3. Powering up with a cap in series with the speaker, all is fine and I have music in the speaker.
4. Powering up with an 120 ohm resistor in series with the speaker also does the trick, with les music volume of cause.
I really would appreciate som help, please!
Henrik
"Shadow of The Colossus" build thread
Have been liking the sound coming out of these 15" bass modules (https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/277565-legis-horny-tales-20.html#post6233392) also when used as a 2-way woofers and one idea lead to another.😀
I already have the "closely TH-4001 clone" horns from Usher D3 and the 15" top and bottom bass modules so I will only have to build separate middle modules that sit between them.
The speaker will likely be 2,5-way and passive single amp system, driven with a flea watt tube amp😉.
The ready speaker will be 230cm tall and 115cm wide and 40cm deep. Lot's of Sd and even Vd even though they are sensitive pro drivers. They only consume 0,92m2 of floor space per pair and they can be pushed completely against the wall as the terminals are at the front baffle.
The 12" drivers are already ordered and I decided to get Fane FC-123F02 (got the last stock, it's discontinued model) which are pretty much the closest 12" equivalent for the 15" FC-153F01 woofers which the others are.
They seem to have the same kind of motor which has copper faraday sleeve since the impedance is also very low 25ohm at 20khz. The motor has superbly low H3.
We'll see how they sound raw/wo xo and measure when they arrive from the foggy island.😉 Will post some measurements...
Here are couple of sims.
FC-123F02 in 80l box (qtc 0,495) and FC-153F01 in 110l box (qtc 0,55). The phase should be quite agreeable inside +/- 10deg between them.
Here's a sim imported from the Vituixcad's diffraction tool. the 2x2 12" matrix is full range 0deg and the 15" 0,5-way woofers have 15mH lowpass coil.
Just to get some idea how the matrix will lobe off-axis. Seems to behave quite good "many tens" of degrees, and the power response is quite even at least in sim. I presume they will propably work best in at least slightly treated rooms where the frontal/listening window response dominates the power response (in how you percieve the balance and what the listening spot response is), so I don't have unrealistic hopes for superbly well behaved power response. Low acoustic xo point around 700-800Hz will help.
I already have a 2-way "Colossus lv1" system playing here🙂 Works quite good even with a proto xo with only 1mh coil as a low pass for the 8ohm wired mids so almost everything comes through. The phase is something like 100deg wrong/makes a step at the xo point, so adding another pole to mids (like in Usher D2/D3 it is) should fix that. Big closed Sd is a funny thing in nearfield.😛
Couple of videos:
1: Lv.1 Colossus - Yao Si Ting - YouTube
2: Lv.1 Colossus - Unforgiven - YouTube
Here's the listening spot response of the Usher D3/TH-4001 horn (with TD-4001) with no toe in like in the picture, with the original Usher D2 xo (without the small low pass coil that is there to tame TD-4001's 20kHz peak).
Speaker setup for 2 way
Hi, new to this whole thing btw, go easy on me.
I have two beovox S25 without drivers, just the cabinets.
I was wondering if i should put a 6.5" woofer + 2" tweeter, or woofer + 2" fullrange.
And then also what the filter + crossover freq should should be.
Saw some places say 3kHz-3.5kHz is good?
I have two beovox S25 without drivers, just the cabinets.
I was wondering if i should put a 6.5" woofer + 2" tweeter, or woofer + 2" fullrange.
And then also what the filter + crossover freq should should be.
Saw some places say 3kHz-3.5kHz is good?
Resistor ID help. Discolored from heat.
- By teggy1000
- Solid State
- 8 Replies
Resistor ID help. Discolored from heat.
It is hard to determine the colors on these resistors. The small one in the lower left measures 10k. Next one up measures 33.1k.
Over to the right the lower discolored one measures 1.5k and the one above it measures 32.4
It is hard to determine the colors on these resistors. The small one in the lower left measures 10k. Next one up measures 33.1k.
Over to the right the lower discolored one measures 1.5k and the one above it measures 32.4
Hybrid Single End Power Amp - ECC99 Tube+IRF540 MOSFET >10 Watt
- By lineup
- Tubes / Valves
- 38 Replies
Attachments
Noam's ridiculous weekend project
- By noamgeller
- Analogue Source
- 12 Replies
I really wanted to see if I can help my cartridge stylus do the impossible, that is, tracking a groove.
So I've built my own LP weight outer ring.
There are such rings to buy on the internet... but they are crazy expansive! 500Euro or more...
I have searched for some alternatives until I came up with the idea of using Epoxy and coind for extra weight. In the end I'm glad I did! This construction is maybe crazy but truly works.
The benefits of puting such weight on a record is threefold:
-Damping the tiny tiny vibration created by the stylus.
-flatting out wraped records
-adding outer mass- eventually a stable speed.
The downside:
-Could be too much for the motor system?
-need to be carefull with cartridge placement.
Cost=15€ (epoxy is not cheap)
But the result are awsome 😀
Resaults:
Better then I hoped for! a defintive step up in resolution, better details and gain in clarity. It just feels more in control and less background noise.
It wouldn't make me stop looking for a better phonostage or cartridge but it is a bigger upgrade then I hoped for.
After two days of playing with it I had a visitor for a listen... he concluded that I'm not halucinating and that there is indeed a big step up in resulotion... however he also added that ring tooked some liveliness from the recording. I have to admit, it does sound quiter with the ring on.
So, maybe great addition for your turntable or an absolute waste of time, depending on your preferances.
Maybe it will inspire you to do the same 😉
So I've built my own LP weight outer ring.
There are such rings to buy on the internet... but they are crazy expansive! 500Euro or more...
I have searched for some alternatives until I came up with the idea of using Epoxy and coind for extra weight. In the end I'm glad I did! This construction is maybe crazy but truly works.
The benefits of puting such weight on a record is threefold:
-Damping the tiny tiny vibration created by the stylus.
-flatting out wraped records
-adding outer mass- eventually a stable speed.
The downside:
-Could be too much for the motor system?
-need to be carefull with cartridge placement.
Cost=15€ (epoxy is not cheap)
But the result are awsome 😀
Resaults:
Better then I hoped for! a defintive step up in resolution, better details and gain in clarity. It just feels more in control and less background noise.
It wouldn't make me stop looking for a better phonostage or cartridge but it is a bigger upgrade then I hoped for.
After two days of playing with it I had a visitor for a listen... he concluded that I'm not halucinating and that there is indeed a big step up in resulotion... however he also added that ring tooked some liveliness from the recording. I have to admit, it does sound quiter with the ring on.
So, maybe great addition for your turntable or an absolute waste of time, depending on your preferances.
Maybe it will inspire you to do the same 😉
Attachments
For sale: Pair of TAMURA F-7002 3.5k 300B output transformers
Pair of TAMURA F-7002 permalloy core 3.5k 300B output transformers made by Tamura Seisakusho Ltd.
Primary: 3.5k ohm
Secondary: 4, 8, 16 ohm
Max Allowable DC Current: 100mA
Price: US$1600 plus shipping of your choice of 8.5kg plus packaging to wherever in the world you are. Payment by PayPal.
Primary: 3.5k ohm
Secondary: 4, 8, 16 ohm
Max Allowable DC Current: 100mA
Price: US$1600 plus shipping of your choice of 8.5kg plus packaging to wherever in the world you are. Payment by PayPal.
Attachments
Bien entendu. Itinéraire d'un audiophile
- By MissionX
- Room Acoustics & Mods
- 0 Replies
Hi,
Do you know where I can get this book in English? Thank you
Do you know where I can get this book in English? Thank you
