I'm selling a pair of Focal Audiom 11 WX drivers, which are used but in perfect condition. I no longer have the original packaging, but I can assure you they will be packed securely. If needed, I can provide photos of the packaging process for your approval. You can find the technical specifications in the following link: Datasheet

The price is fixed at €1000 for the pair, payable via bank transfer. Shipping costs will be the responsibility of the buyer. I'm not interested in any material exchanges. Please feel free to reach out privately if you're interested.

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Available in the following Amazon stores:
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Also available in Spanish:

Hi all,

The Tarkus seems to be still appreciated after 14 years of existance. I understant it is an relatvely inexpensive design and rock music oriented. Since i come from Harbeth, Audio Physic and Triangle land, I want to make shure the Tarkus is not a too fatiguing speaker (harsh, agressive, etc.).

I do want a rock speaker buy my old ears are fragile 😉

Can I have some feedback please.

Walter

I've been a member for a couple of years, but I've never been particularly active. The only thing I've built so far is an ACAmp. Future plans include the Biamp 6-24 Active Crossover, either another ACA or an Aleph J, and probably a tube preamp. I currently have a question posted on the Biamp Crossover thread to confirm capacitor selection before placing an order from DigiKey, but I'm still waiting for a response.

I look forward to getting more active on the forums and to meeting new folks. Thanks for having me!

I'm placing an old dj bass tube I made out of a 15" pro driver and a sonotube design app into my motorhome (so i can get throwed out of all the rv parks) and because we are remodeling it I'm building the interior around the tube . It is 4ft tall when standing if laid on its side it's 24"x24" and 48" long and the driver is ported on one end and the driver is placed at the other so my question is whether to stand it upright in a corner or on it's side on the floor ????? No bad answers cause we know that this is an opinion of personal result so just what would you do 8x20 room 8ft tall and not for outside sound just inside.

I am working on the orientation of the Power Transformer, Output Transformer and especially now the two chokes. I have determined the quietest relative positions of the PT to the OT but how do the chokes play into this? Should I energize the PT and position the chokes where they are the quietist of energize the chokes and listen at the OT? I also have a stand alone filament transformer I have to deal with, so many different pieces to fit together.
Thanks

Is there anyone who have the schematic for the RM9 Mk.I?
Made some new pcb for this one. Double sided and with 70um tracks. The silkscreen is marked with the resistor values I found on the old pcb but I`m not sure if they all were the original ones. Got 4 left so if anyone is interested I could sell for the actual cost.

Can anybody confirm the input capacitance of the MM Phono stage of this pre-amp?

It’s not listed in the specs section of the service manual. The circuit diagram shows a 56pF capacitor to ground on the input stage but this sounds very low as I understand most phono stages are somewhere around 150-300 pF.

Does the input transistor contribute to extra capacitance in addition to the 56 pF in circuit? How much?

My phono cartridge specifies ideal capacitance of 400 pF, and allowing for typical 150 pF in the cabling, I need about 250 pF in the pre-amp.

I am considering a DYI build for either the

CSS Criton 2TD-X Tower or the Solstice.​

Seems they are both good speakers, my question is:
Has anybody heard both and can comment on how they compare ? Please include imaging capabilities in addition to tone and timbre. Thank you.

This is my first attempt at designing truly from scratch. I currently have it assembled and "working", although it's in more of a breadboard state. I was hoping a kind soul might be willing to look over my design, and offer feedback, criticism, or helpful guidance.

I have a pair of 10" or 12" (not sure) Magnavox vintage field coil speakers that I will sell for $35 which should cover the cost of shipping only. US only. I will remove from the plywood and bolt together to ship. There are no rips or tears in the cones. The transformer is included. The whizzer cone in the picture is not attached to the speaker but is included. I'm sorry but no refunds since I'm essentially giving away.

Two pieces AD1862. Price 100€ with post. Purchased from DIGIKEY

Hello everyone,
I have a problem with my amplifier (Cyrus one), when I turn on the power switch, both resistors 119,120 rapidly heats up.

Can any one help?

Looking for this kind of transformers.

If you want to sell please let me know.

Thanks.

Just a quickie,

I've just dug up 2 pairs of these Hitachi MOSFETs. I would like to build an amplifier from them in a couple months maybe. My question is: Is it worth it? I know they are elderly by current standards, are there any good circuits to use them in Hi-Fi Land? It just seems a shame to waste them...

Many thanks.

Brownlow

I have the SB26STCN 4ohm tweeter and SB17CRC carbon fiber 8ohm woofer in a small bookshelf setup, sealed box design of about 0.2cuft. I use the reference driver curves (frd/zma files I found online) and modeled a very simple crossover: just a 10uF and 2ohm resistor on the tweeter, and a 0.6mH and 10uF cap on the woofer. Tweeter is wired reverse polarity. No baffle step correction yet. I dont think I need it in my setup close to the wall.

I am quite impressed with these SB drivers. Compared to my Vienna Acoustics Bach speakers (1" Scanspeak dome tweeter and 17cm Seas woofer), these SBAcoustics drivers sound just as purely musical, but I feel like it removes a veil in the midrange nicely. And it has really good bass slam.

I even tried replacing the 17cm Seas driver in the VABachs with the SB17CRC. It was 2mm too big, but I buffered the cutout with foam tape and bolted it in. The tweeter was too bright, needed to be trimmed down, but wow, solid depth and slam in the 0.7cuft ported box. It would be an amazing upgrade if it just fit the existing cutout and the tweeter was padded down about 2-3db.

Next up is to source a measurement microphone and take some readings of in room performance, maybe further tweek the crossover. But I would be happy living as is with these speakers now.

Fun little project, and low barrier to entry. Highly recommended. Would do again!

My current speakers have become the weak link in my system... So I was thinking of the Zu DWX. They get rave reviews and would cost $1,500 to my door. I have all the tools to build a published design and I would surely do so if I could get something comparable for $1,000 or less. Would need to live happily with an Amp Camp amp. MY current speakers are OB Hestias without the woofers and supported by a small sub. They are very good and excellent in the value department.

Hi everyone!!
I’m Ricardo from Oporto.
I spent the last months repairing and collecting some vintage cd players and I learnt a lot by checking service manuals.
But now I have some technical questions and need answers. I hope you can help me.
Thanks to all the community.

In excellent fully working condition
Very good cosmetic condition and in their original packaging.

These were made in Surrey UK I think in the early 90’s
Unfortunately just when the company was about to launch to market it went bust ( personal reasons I’m told )

These have been in use daily in different systems, I no longer have a use for them since repairing my Stasis 2 .

I have been in contact with the maker who said they are 90w to 110w each .

Very nice quality and solid cases .

Only selling to fund the purchase of a B1k preamp from the DIY store .
I also have the matching preamp which will become available once I replace it .


£300
Postage/shipping at cost

Got an old FISHER metal detector, 555-D and become curious about the way how it work. Anyone may have schematic diagram of Fisher 550-D series?

(Mods...had no idea where to put this...seemed more related to testing of the SS gear I fool with, so here it is. Move if you feel appropriate)

For years I've had a very old Waveforms tube sine-wave generator, but lately it has developed some problems so I'm looking for a more modern replacement.

I'm using a distortion analyzer to check out my work, and I'd like distortion of 0.01% or less. I have a opportunity to grab a used Leader LAG-126, which is supposed to be capable of less than 0.005% thd. Attractive specs, but it will cost around $200 US. Seems high for a used piece nearly 10 years old.

What other ultra-low distortion generators are out there? What do you all use? I'm really too busy to build something, and the DIY circuits I've seen are not capable of distortion readings as low as the Leader I found.

Hey guys ,

I bought a new laptop this year after 16 years with my old one with XP. It is a Dell and like some other computer makers they use the mediocre Realtek chips not just as codec but also as output amp. They are not good. My old Dell computer from 2006 sounds much better. Then there is the problem of Dell's audio "enhancement" with MaxxAudio/waves that really is very bad and an absolute no-no for audiophiles. I have managed to get this off my computer at great cost, but that is another story.
The Realtek chip can't even go higher than 48kHz audio , so all the 96k or 192k files I have are for nothing. A stark warning for Dell buyers !! (Then for the linus folks , it seems linux converts everything to 44k ). Both are so outdated in a 2023 computer.

Obviously I'm thinking about an external DAC. Just straight 2 channel stereo , no enhancements , no 5.1 7.1 stuff. Next month I'll be visiting my home country where I have the DAC's from my SONY MD and DAT players through an Elektor USB to coax or optical circuit, but they only go 48kHz too and those are 1996-7 tech, they can handle 300 ohm HP's though. The MD player is light enough to bring with me but not the big but better DAT player.

I need an compact audioplayer too (DAP), since my low cost/low quality Cowon player died. So I'm thinking of something like a quality player like Astell&Kern SR25 II or 35 , that I can use as DAC too. But they are hard to buy in europe and freaking expensive.
https://www.astellnkern.com/product/product_detail.jsp?productNo=143
When browsing around for just USB DAC's there is a lot of choice , how to choose ? I want something better than the crappy Realtek and just buying blind from the internet might not be better.
Yes I've read the whole thread : https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/what-do-members-of-diyaudio-use-as-music-players.386298/
Didn't really find a good one. This is do-able : https://www.cambridgeaudio.com/usa/en/products/hi-fi/dacmagic/dacmagic100
But it is only a DAC , I rather have a DAP with a useable quality DAC .

Hello everyone!
I want to make a bass reflex box for this full range speaker: QT-50QF01
So I'm looking for dimensions stomoch with a box project.

Audioquest XLR Connectors Male and XLR Connectors Female - 4 piece - Brand New​

Retail price is $240 for 2 pairs, purchased from The Cable company.

XLR Connector (Set of 2)​

Audioquest XLR Connector - The Cable Company carries Audioquest high end audio cables and accessories.
www.thecableco.com

XLR Connectors Female · Audio & Video Connectors · Splitters / Connectors / Adaptors · Accessories​

AudioQuest cables and other audio products combine solid conductors, high-purity metals, specialized geometries, and stable dielectrics to enable naturally beautiful sounds and images.


Selling price : $150 including PayPal charges 5.5%.

Shipping to Worldwide at buyer's risk, but it will packed carefully.

Shipping to world will be through INDIA post Registered mail which will take 2-4 weeks.

Please contact me for shipping charges.

Thanks for looking.

Vishay VSH bulk foil radial lead resistors

9.53K -- 8 piece
21.5K -- 2 piece
19.1K -- 2 piece
475ohms -- 2 piece


Audionote/Shinkoh Tantalum Resistors

all together 28 resistors , 0.5W, 1W, 2W

Resistor Value and wattage details are in images, please refer.

-------------------------------------------------------------
These All resistors cost more than $225.

I am willing to sell as complete package at very reasonable price of $100 including shipping and PayPal charges.

Shipping to Worldwide at buyer's risk, but it will packed carefully.

Shipping to world will be through INDIA post Registered mail which will take 2-4 weeks.

Thanks for looking.

AD711JN - 2 piece
AD8561- 2 piece
OPA627BP - 2 piece
NE555 - 3 piece
Toshiba 74HC04AP/74HCU04AN - 1/1piece
LME49860NA - 1 piece
LME49740NA - 1 piece
NPC SM5842AP - 2 piece
Pulse PE-65612NL coaxial input transformer - 2 piece
AD1896A - 2 piece

I will sell All IC's together and provide very good deal.
Interested person please send your offer, pictures also upon request.

Shipping to Worldwide at buyer's risk, but it will packed carefully.

Shipping to world will be through INDIA post Registered mail which will take 2-4 weeks.

Please contact me for shipping charges.

Thanks for looking.

Hi Ho, just finished my 3d Printed Sub build. I have plenty of construction photos if anyone is interested. Sub features 6 x 10in drivers from SB Acoustics. Its fully 3d printed with epoxy filled walls and with an internal force cancelling structure to link all the drivers. Its completely force cancelling in all directions and is a sealed design.
Best wishes,
Ben.

ETI Research PhonoPod, TeCu Gold Plated Female RCA socket - 4 piece
light used in good condition
Purchased from VH Audio for $116.

Switchcraft Black bodied, gold plated XLR male and female socket - 4 piece
brand new condition
Purchased from hificollective for £28.

Canare 75Ω R1-RCA socket - 2 piece
light used in good condition
Purchased from Micheal Percy Audio for $16.


Selling All items at $90 including PayPal charges 5.5%.

Shipping to Worldwide at buyer's risk, but it will packed carefully.

Shipping to world will be through INDIA post Registered mail which will take 2-4 weeks.

Please contact me for shipping charges.

Thanks for looking.

I've settled what I want in a binding post by reading these forums, basically something with good mechanical torque that won't oxidize over time. Gold plated copper seems ok. But in the EU I'm a bit lost so I'm looking for recommendations for a good quality source. For reference I was going to buy the ones on the diyaudio store, so you know more or less what I was after... It would also be a good way to support this site, which I've been reading very sporadically, but I think it deserves support given the fact that places with knowledgeable people and open discussions are slowly disappearing...
Like I said, I was going to buy some stuff from the diyaudio store but realized it would go through EU customs... Last time I've dealt with them a few years back they messed up a valuable item, I suspect from inspection, and refused to take any responsibility from it. I don't wanna go through the details here, suffice to say I hate them and don't want to deal with them, too many dishonest people accepting dishonest rules... Seen similar complaints all over the EU in other countries so probably not unique to where I'm at, although my case was speciall, they opened a device and messed it up, probably didn't knew how to reassemble it.... Anyway, sorry for this including a bit of a rant, but I'm pissed with everything that's going....

Hi,

I had the good fortune of finding a full set of matching Acrosound iron from two Allen 75 (or maybe 90?) amplifiers (the old square Acro cans) at a show today. The chokes say 14hy, 40ma DC, 10V 60 CPS, 50 ohm. They are about 7lbs, so half the size of either the OPTs or PTs (14 lbs each). The Allen 75 schematics I've found show these are input chokes.

I have a couple of George's universal PP driver boards stored, and I'm thinking this will all be a good match. I'd aim for something that spends more time in class A than the original implementation, and I'm puzzled by the size and markings on the chokes. Even biased in the original use, how could 40ma be sufficient? The OPTs are marked for 175ma (These are TO-340/350 sized, but 3.3K rather than a stock model). The only choke input amp I've built was a 6V6 push pull, and despite all the rest of the iron being MUCH smaller, I used a 15lb old Stancor that was rated for LC use.

Does 40ma somehow mean that these things consume 40ma when used as originally intended? That would make sense with the 10V marking that follows it. Or, does it somehow relate to these seeing something quite a bit choppier than the DC you'd get in a CLC supply? The actual Acro schematics I've reviewed (their own 6550 or Williamson designs) show the choke at the 200ma I'd expect.

Sorry for what is likely a stupid question!

Paul

HI All..

How do you calculate for an AC transformer in VA for DC current draw properly is my question? Usually I'm building things on here that have been built before where the appropriate size of the transformer has been spec'd out and I don't bother to ask how they came to that value.

My primary AC power is 120V and the AC voltage on the secondary will be 9V AC. The final DC voltage will be 5V and the current draw will be max 1.5 Amps

A 25VA 9V AC transformer would put out 2.77 A , I know you want headroom so the transformer isn't stressed, humming, etc. etc.

A 50 VA 9V AC transformer would put out 5.55 A , I know you don't want it too oversized because the magnetic field creates more noise I think.

What value is best?

Hi, I got an old Pioneer DVD player ( Pioneer DV-606D ) that works on 120V AC , MAX 25W power consumption written on the back .
At least for testing purposes I was thinking to use two 50VA transformers, one that has 220 to 12V and another one that has 220V to 6V.
Now , if I take the 6V from the one and input it on the 12v on the other I should get half of the 220V - ( so 110V ). ?

Make offers. I'd like to get ~60% of what this stuff sells for from retailers. Almost everything here is new. If anyone wants to make an offer on everything, that'd be cool, but I'm ok with selling stuff separately or small bundles.

Tweeters:
Electro Voice 1823M with mid horn (1)
Dayton ND16FA-6 (2)
Dayton ND28FB-6 (65)
Dayton D250P-8 (2)
GRS PT2522 Planar (4)
Fountek Neo CD 2.0 (2) (part of faceplate routed off for closer CTC)

Mid/full range:
MarkAudio CHP70A (2)
MarkAudio CHR70A (2)
MarkAudio 7MS (4)
Alpair 11MS (2)
Dayton RS75 (2)
Dayton ND65 (4)
Dayton DC50FA (2)
Scans 8414 (2)
Fostex FE208 Sigma (3)

Mid woofers/Woofers:
Usher 8836AC2 (2)
Peerless 850544 (2)
Dayton RS180P (2)
Dayton DC130B (2)
Dayton DC130A (2)
Dayton DS115 (2)
Dayton ND140 (2)
Dayton DS215 (2)
Electro Voice SRO 15 (1)


Subwoofers:
TB W5 1138
SMF (1)
Peerless 830668 (1)

Located in Dayton Ohio. Can ship

Continuing some in room Intermodulation distortion measurements I've done for 6-8" drivers I now take a look at 10" drivers.

First off is the Seas L26roy 2 layer voice coil version and an oldie but goodie Peerless XXLS 830842 a high Bl version originally designed to pair with a passive radiator.

Due to conflicts with box bracing I've mounted the drivers magnet out.

Testing condition are as follows: The test enclosure is a .5 cu ft (14 liter) sealed box with the bottom lip of the speaker just 2 inches above the floor. The microphone is on a stand 49"high with the base of the microphone 33" from the driver. A distance of about 1.5m from the speaker to the microphone. As I'm not measuring in an anechoic chamber my measurements are not comparable to anyone else's but comparisons can be made between the drivers I test.

Let me know what drivers you'd like to see tested, I can't guarantee anything but I am collecting ideas.

Looking for a few pieces:

(1) newer style bass / treble knob (not the kind with the green line)
(1) PAS3X Treble control 400K single (PAS-3X pot has reduced travel -- goes from about 7 o'clock to 3. Also you can't measure resistance across it)
(1) PAS3X Bass control 750K (same characteristics as treble pot)

Thank you.

Hi, does anyone know if you can remove the horn from the B&C 6FHX51 by removing the screws? Or if there are any other coaxial drivers where you can remove both the compression driver and the horn. Thanks




https://www.bcspeakers.com/en/products/coaxial/6-5/8/6fhx51

Hi folks

I'm hoping I can possibly get some assistance on fault finding with this great amp that Ive had for quite some years, but which dropped one channel a couple of years back, and since then while not being used seems to have died fully.

A little while back after I found it was giving no output at all I opened up snf found the main two caps bulging so replaced them. There was also a transistor that looked nasty so replaced that too. Tested some other components but couldn't find anything obvious to me.
I tried it again after that but still nothing.

So tonight I removed the main amp board and resoldered every joint on it as there was evidence of at least some dry joints, which is apparently real common on these. Again, it's no different after.

So currently what I have is this:
1) it powers on, power led/other leds are fine.
2) motor control of the volume and mute from remote appear to work fine. Not sure what else without any output.
3) There is Zero output from either of the speaker terminals (I've tested all inputs), and even via headphones there is also zero output.
4) I have noticed that when I press the power button there is a physical click from the actual power switch itself, but I do not hear any relay click after a few seconds, or anything like that, like most amps tend to do.

I have read of problems with relays on marantz amps, but if that was the case would it prevent any output at all through either the speaker terminals AND the headphone socket?

There is a chunky 24v relay sitting between the big power caps and the output terminals, so possibly that should be switching on and is not? But if that was the case would it still affect the headphone jack, which is on a totally separate board?

I've got a circuit diagram, and am fairly handy with a multimeter and very basic electronics, but I've not tried to troubleshoot something like an amp previously.

I am in the unusual position of owning a scope but having no idea how to use it. So if anyone can offer guidance on what points I should probe on the boards then perhaps that will make it easier to id the fault(s) possibly?

Many thanks in advance if anyone is willing to offer some guidance on this. It's a lovely amp and I'd really like to get it back to life if I can. I'm sure there's no value to it, but I don't like throwing things out, I'm fond of the amp, and I love repairing stuff so it makes sense to at least try.

Cheers!

Hey I have an older KSC era digimoda amp. I haven't used it for about a year, and I just set up the cabinets I had them in to demo my reference floor standing speakers.

I first noticed there was some periodic low level rustling noise on the sub woofer channel. Later I noticed the woofer cones were excurding outward. I didn't notice any noise and it wasn't constant, then the other day they persisted to the point where the magnet of the drivers got hot and I could smell something heating up.

My best guess is one of the coupling caps / dc blocking caps has failed and is allowing a DC bias to pass into the output stage? Not sure exactly what that translates into with a PWM amplifier I assume more average off or on time on he pulse train?

I would very much like to trouble shoot this amp. I have soldering tools, hot air rework station scopes signal generators dummy loads etc.
Does anybody have any information and or schematics regarding these ICE amp modules and the DSP being used? I'm going to make a wild guess that KSC was doing what everybody else from the late 90s and on do and buy standard modules from some manufactuer, so the information must exist?

Any suggestions on where I should start with this beast, its such a cool amp and I tuned the crossovers with a TEF 25, be a shame to have to start over. I don't think I have access to the original config files anymore.

Yes, i searched. No real explanation of this phenomenon.
Actually, its not real problem, just curiosity. Nothing is broken.
Let me explain. This hum happens in numerous instances, various combinations of mp3 players and amplifiers. Mp3 players are all battery powered. In garage system, or traveling system, various classD amplifiers. Big or small speakers, does not matter. While mp3 player is on, there is no hum. When its off, there is hum. When i unplug cord from mp3 player, no hum. Maybe slight static, depends what amp and where the volume is set.
Any idea why the mp3 player generates hum when its off? There is no hum the moment its turned on.

For sale, a recently ordered Edcor single-ended 5K:8 ohm output transformer rated at 15 watts. I ended up not needing it for a repair job. Only opened to take pictures for this ad. CONUS only, PayPal preferred, ships double-boxed from Oakland, CA (94609).
$30 plus shipping, can ship within 24 hours of payment. Local pickups welcome.

I’ve recently (almost) finished my amplifier, and I’m having trouble with the volume pot. I wasn’t going to add one, but my current phono pre amp doesn’t have one, so why not…

It’s an Audio Note 100k log volume pot, so not some cheap thing. Under normal circumstances it is pretty scratchy sounding particularly in the left channel only when adjusting the pot. I normally leave it at full volume except for vinyl listening, and bias checking, so the scratching sound is not too big of a deal. Today I was listening for about two hours, and noticed a scratchy sound; I was listening with a low input volume, and the scratchy sound was pretty loud. I adjusted the volume pot slightly, as I immediately suspected the pot, and got a very loud noise on the left channel. No abnormal temperatures, voltages, or bias anomalies.

Did I get a defective part, or is there another likely explanation?
I have the wiper of the pot going to R61, and the full resistance of the pot basically replaces R64


Thanks

The Acoustics Patents column by James Croft in the April 2024 issue of Voice Coil magazine covers a patent by Shure of what is essentially Hegeman's tuned pipes bass enclosure going back to the 50s.

Fast-forward 50 years and Hegeman’s multiple, closed tuned pipe system has apparently been reinvented by two engineers at Shure in Illinois.

Click to expand...

Well worth a read. Inspires me to get going on making one of these enclosures!

I have multiple older DACs that use CS8412 receiver chip and my current DDC is Gustard U12 w/ Acusilicon AS318B which is a femto clock. Would I gain anything by upgrading DDC, e.g. to Gustard U18 w/ Acusilicon AS338, given the receiver chip in DAC is lowly CS8412 ?

I have worked for a while on designing drivers now and I wanted to make something I would really love to have in my own system. After a bit of considerations, I found out that the basic requirements should be as follows:

- T/S-parameters that fits a 150 liter vented box with 24Hz tuning.
- X-max (real x-max) in the 10-12mm range.
- 15 inch paper cone and paper dustcap with F0-1000Hz operating range.
- Roll off that fits a typical room response (-3dB @ 50-60Hz and -6dB @ 30-35Hz).

So we ended up with a set of parameters that looks quite interesting. A buddy of mine tested them and commented that they gave the same sensitivity and response as the TAD TL1601b in the same box. So even though the parameters are slightly different, it will basically deliver the same frequency response as the TAD, and therefore could work as a replacement for it.

Here are the parameters for those who are interested:



Note the Re of 31,7 ohms. Yes, that is in fact not a typo. This unit has a double gap and double coil design, and the two coils are connected to separate terminals. Connected in parallell, they produce just shy of 8 ohms. In series, well, you can have the coils in parallell and run 8 in parallell on a typical amp.

Cheryl Crow, Counting Crows and Mary Chapin Carpenter. So easy these days to find good music for cheap. I imagine in a larger city. It would be fantastic. The store I went to the cd's were unsorted which is a PIA.

Both have been used in the past with no issues. A trimpot is used to allow trimming the DC offset.

Parts used for both include:

• Vishay/Dale military spec RN series metal film resistors
• Panasonic metal oxide 3W resistors
• Elna Silmic II electrolytic capacitors
• Silver mica feedback capacitor
• Zetex input MOSFETs

Amp#1: One set of boards is a true mini-Aleph with IRFP240 output transistors and is intended for ~12V rails and 1A bias. $40 for the set. See first image.

Amp#2: The other set of boards is kind of a mini Aleph 30 with IXYS IXFH74N20P output transistors. Tested at 24V rails with about 1.3A bias. $50 for the set. See second image.

Buyer to cover actual shipping cost. Will generally ship with the cheapest carrier unless otherwise requested. Payment by PayPal. Friends and family appreciated to avoid the fees, but left to the discretion and comfort level of the buyer.

I have 2 unused, undamaged SP132 in its original packaging. $250 for both. Shipping to US ~$80. Inside Europe $40.

Hi. I found a BGW 250D for sale at a good price, but don't have any experience with these amps. What does it sound like?

Hi,
Is the primary winding start of the output transformer b+ or p? Is the secondary start at 0r or 8r? What is your advice?

Constraints and Considerations
I am wanting to join the club of people who have designed and built their own ESLs. I know there are great sources out there like jazz an if I just wanted to copy what someone else did, but that doesn’t excite me as much as designing and building my own. Part of the motivation for designing my own comes from the reality that everyone has different constraints and Considerations. Some of use need to limit the height of our build to 3 ft while others of us can build 6 or 12 ft towers. Some can use mylar while others may opt for cheaper or more expensive materials. We also all have different considerations. Some may need or want a built in sub, others have a sub and don’t need to worry about integration. Some have crossover at 250hz others at 150hz. And then there is the greatest limiter of all, the wife acceptance factor. All of these constraints and Considerations effect the choices and designs we make. My intent for this thread is to try and compile a master list or decision tree that can help myself and others understand there constraints and Considerations. From the area of the driver, to segmentation, to film coating. I want to understand all the different variables and the consequences of each path taken both in terms of realistic output of the end product and in terms or how one decision might effect the rest of the ecosystem (driver size and power requirements or spls and stator design). If you know any good sources feel free to share, or if you want to share the story of your journey highlighting the constraints and Considerations that guided your design, or if you just wanna mention one thing that you wish you or fathers had known. Also any limitations of els and the various methods of engineering used to try and Address them would be relevant and worth sharing. Thanks.
Ps math’s and physics very much encouraged.

Have you ever had one of your amps oscillate? If yes, how did you fix it?

Are these both 1 amp, found 2 burnt on my amp just want to make sure. Thanks

I've gone through a bunch of threads and didn't find a direct answer but sorry if this is a redundant post. I have an amp I've been running for 6 months now with an 18-0-18 500 VA antek transformer and a DIYaudio store power supply with an Aleph 3 clone board for months. I recently updated it to an Aleph J which is wonderful! However, after a couple of hours, the transformer starts to buzz noticeably (it is silent until then). This is a mechanical buzz not through the speakers. Is this likely a heat-related problem?

Although the transformer itself doesn't get warm the Aleph J does run warm inside the box and the rectifiers (KBPC3xxx) are getting to ~50 degrees C. The heat sinks for the amplifiers are well within reasonable limits less than<40 C in most places I measure them <50 C in the "hot spots". There is plenty of space on the bottom and both sides and warm air is flowing out the top vents.

Should I try a fan or better heatsinks on the rectifiers? Any other suggestions???

Hello,

I'm building audio project around the couple STA311 PWM controller and STA516 power stage.
This couple is interesting for us at it allows to have a variation of our electronic to drive 8 vibration transducer in a specific product. Otherwise we would run a 80-90W 8R audio amplifier (on mono or 2x45W stereo)

Our projects will run on PoE power, so the STA516 is interesting as its max power supply is at 60V. Our PoE stage will provide 50-57V maximum. So it should avoid us to include a buck of flyback stage.

Anyway the problem now during the trials of our prototypes is that our amplifier board is consumming to much power for even low audio signals.
Before injecting 55V from PoE, I'm trying with smaller voltage.
And with 16V supply we have already 2,7W consumption (30V - 9W). Would reach a crazy 20W at 52V? On only one regular speaker 8ohms.
These 2,7W is the minimum as soon as a signal is present on digital inputs.

I suspect something wrong maybe on the STA311 configuration making generating PWM signals making amplifier working a lot outside the audio band.
Or maybe there is something wrong with the output filter components. They are the ones coming hot, power is not taken by the speaker.
Nothing fancy about them as they are chose from the ST Datasheet.

Have you any suggestion?

Thank you.

Over the years I have accumulated several drivers that I have bought cheap or received free only to find that they do not perform as expected/advertised or that I was given because " I build speakers and maybe could use these" from mates.
Yesterday I bought another driver that seemed OK, not open circuit and good travel but hooking it up all top end/ no bass and woofer tester tells me it has a real problem and Fs is 1100Hz not the 30 or 40Hz it should be.
My question is this; at what point do you just send the drivers to the tip? At what point is it worth having a driver rebuilt ?
I'd personally not bother when a woofer has a small magnet and a pressed steel frame but some of these drivers have cast alloy frames, massive magnets and 4inch voice coils and I have a hankering to build another huge box or two and retail on my last $50- buy is about $350- and more.
https://www.lorantz.com.au/loudspeaker-products/loud-speakers/15-inch-bass-mid/ac400x-b9s-1400w/
Micheal at Lorantz hasn't yet replied to my email but I have asked if they have a rebuild service and if so at what cost.

First edition. No markings, notes. Near mint condition. $50 includes postage in CONUS.

Need help figuring out what a good replacement motor would be for an Audiomeca J1 turntable. The turntable was damaged during shipping, mostly cosmetic except for the motor drive shaft, which is bent. From what I can tell, the original motor was manufactured by Crouzet back in 1988. I'm pretty sure its 24vDC. I've attached a photo of the motore and what is left of the label.
Looks like the model # starts with 82520 4. 24 v 50 Hz. I've reached out to Crouzet, hopefully they can help. If not, what are my options? I'm new to diy, and not new to stereo gear. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Dear all,
few days ago I purchased second hand a pair of JBL L250. I really think they are simply fantastic and I am super excited about the way they sound in my setup.
I am trying to collect any kind of document about them, especially schematics, that could help me understanding if there is any electronic component that I should check and replace.
Suggestions and any kind of information are very welcome!

Thank you in advance
Gaetano

I want to buy IanCanada's Si570 or dual clock board for FIFO.

Tested functional. IO NE5534. Very dynamic and detailed sound. Price 190€. Postage to the EU included in the price.


https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-audiophile-approach-to-perfect-sound.374507/

I love the powerful midrange sound of VOTT’s 288 but I don't have the space for A5 cabinet.

In past years, I was thinking about possibility of combining vintage horn with modern woofer. I achieve it by designing crossover function in preamp.

Preamp : 12db/oct , 300Hz
HF power amp : 300B SE
LF power amp : 6550 PP (triode connection)

Sweet 1W glass is pretty enough to drive 288 !

The 1-minute video is large for website.
Please watch on facebook

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/dPmEhfyPJAVvYHwA/?mibextid=K35XfP

Horn and woofer are no longer bounded by traditional speaker crossover unit.

Folks, I need help... I am a MAC user and am looking for a simple tool to help design a single ended circuit. I was recommended the Broski Tube CAD software solutions; however, they all appear to work on Windows systems.

Any suggestions or a simple online solution?

Hi! I need some help to find out why my midrange does not sound good.
I used all the hardware from the Monacor Katana, but I made a custom 4cm baffle and made it smaller than the original from Monacor.

Can anyone tell me why I get a peak in the midrange?

Hello all.

Can anyone tell me what the two large ic's are on this board behind the RCA jacks?

• Monday at 8:16 AM
• 
  

I have the following black anodized rack cases for your audio/electronic projects at clear-out prices:
Note: All units come with handles and hardware in kit form
All front panels are aluminum
AL is all aluminum ideal for your preamp projects.
Shipping costs extra. Give me your full address and phone no. to work out the cost.
Payment via PayPal (with3% surcharge), or e-money transfer for Canadian orders.

Recently bought an apartment and started planning the renovation/compartmentalization process. Naturally I want to plan electrical and it got me thinking that I want to also build myself a speaker kit.

Spent a week browsing for DIY builds a proven design instead trying to design one myself and I'm more undecided then when I started. I need recommendations of which direction I should go in.

The space is 8.1x4.5x2.6m (uploaded a pic of the space). Also there is a greenhouse (4.5x1.5x2.5m) attached to the room. Total room is around 40sqm. I don't want to change the room aragment. I want to be able to sit on the couch and see the greenhouse, also the sun sets in the window and I want to be abel to see it. Windows behind speakers sucks but there has to be a workaround. Turning the couch 90' will just split the room in two which is not an option or create a 8m long tube. I want it to be a social space not a purpose built listening room.

I have access to an industrial CNC, so woodworking ain't a problem. Most of the furniture in the house will be designed and built by me using plywood. I love the teardrop shape of B&W 805D

Initially liked the Amiga, but then I read for the room size they might need subs. So I looked into building two subs (12 or 15). Then looked at so MTM builds (ER18MTM Ribbon, Helix, Apollo etc) and pairing them with subs using miniDSP Dirac to correct room acoustics. The longer I searched the further down the rabbit hole I went. Now my head hurts and Im extremely undecided.

Was really hopping y'all fine people here point me in the right direction, and justify why it's the right one for the space.

Seeking possible close substitutes for vintage upper mid dome drivers. I'm resisting the usual cluster of stepping out of the box into the current flavor of the month 2" and beyond offerings. Being used in a perfected 5w design I'd prefer to remain within the narrow designed window. So should you have such hanging around needing affection PM me.

Thx,
DD

I'm working on some models to 3d print headshells. I wanted to try unipivots again so figured that I'd start with a Mayware Formula 4. I will first print these in plastic. Would anyone who owns one of these be able to help with some dimensions? I believe I'm fairly close but don't have an original headshell to measure against.

The model I'm thinking of has the thicker version of the headshell.

Hi all. I want to diy 12 inches floor speaker with Tannoy HPD 315 unit and iwistao IWISTAO 12 Inch Coaxial Enclosure Floor Empty Speaker Cabinet. But want to cut the holes in advance before shipment, unfortunately I don't have the unit on my hand at this moment. Have someone had measured the sizes before or had have its detailed specification about sizes? Need the sizes as attached photo (the photo download from internet, don't have it now), thank you for your help in advance!

Also, could you offer some suggestions about my project? Thank you!

Link: IWISTAO 12 Inch Coaxial Enclosure Floor Empty Speaker Cabinet 1 Piece Solid Wood Customize Holes Tannoy Style HIFI Audio DIY

Hi,

Looking for a matched set of outputs for the RMI FC-100 amplifier. Seems like mine has a channel that gave up. If you have, please let me know.

That would be 3 pairs of NJL0281/0302 all matched NNN/PPP

Thanks
Do

Hi, I'll be putting together a couple of 3886 amplifiers (or something similar) and require chassis for them. I already have suitable heatsinks and transformers. Sizewise? Hmmm, difficult to tell at this point. But, regular rack mount width is a good start. If you're in Canada and you have some no longer needed boxes to be rid of drop me a PM.... tnxs.

I have a B&K Video 5 that I would like to strap channels for mono use. It has 5 channels, so I want to strap 2 channels for CH1 and 2 more for CH2. The 5th channel would be unused. Can it be done without blowing it up?

Never even got this project started. Worked for a few weeks when I got it- then went into protect. Removed the output vfets, worked as a phono pre for awhile just fine. No obvious internal flameouts after careful visual inspection. Phono toggle switch is a bit intermittent, and iirc, there are the usual dirty pots. None of the 2SJ18's / 2SK60's have been tested. They are all rank 54. [7 have an HA prefix, one is HC.] Still have all 8 mica bases and screws. Thought I'd throw this out at you fine folks first before launching into ebay trauma, lol! I'll test the vfets and post internal photos if there's any interest.

During lockdown I spent a lot of time and money building several speakers. Now I have many leftovers. Most have been used for only a few hours. Some never left their (unopened) boxes.

Happy to ship anywhere from the UK.

Greetings, I'm assuming that the input impedance is different than the later more common PSA revisions. Which also did not have RCA inputs but had PIP balanced, etc exchangable modules. A quick search for the owners manual only turned up the PSA version. So does anyone happen to have the SA version handy?

Many thanks,
DD

Preface

• This report is a supplement to the reports previously posted to the diyAudio site:
• "Acoustat Magne-Kinetic Interface MK-121-2 A Successful Restoration". https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ace-mk-121-2-a-successful-restoration.404764/
• "Acoustat Stator Wire Repair: Hints and Lessons Learned". https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ints-and-lessons-learned.404881/#post-7492750
• As documented in the last page of report, "Acoustat Stator Wire Repair: Hints and Lessons Learned", "Although huge progress was made with all panels, one panel in speaker 104333 continues to make random clicking noises.." While I could not detect any looseness or wrinkles in the mylar diaphragms, with the random clicking noises in this panel still happening after thorough cleaning and extensive repairs to the stator wires, I proceeded cautiously to see if applying heat shrinkage to the mylar diaphragm could resolve this issue.

Purpose
* To share my investigations and results covering; material properties, type of heat instrument to use, and best practices to stay safely below high temperature limits.

Equipment
* Table 1 describes the equipment used in this report (other makes and models of equipment offering similar performance can be used).

Table 1. Description of equipment used in this report.

Materials and Temperature Ratings
* Table 2 lists some of the temperature ratings of Mylar (diaphragm material) and Polystyrene (panel frame material).

Table 2. Critical temperature ratings of Mylar and Polystyrene.

• Well below the melting points of mylar and polystyrene are the more critical thermal properties of polystyrene. At the Vical softening temperature of 90 Deg C polystyrene becomes soft, and at the glass transition temperature of 100 deg C polystyrene begins to flow.
• To validate these published ratings, I conducted a temperature experiment on test samples of mylar film and polystyrene material. Indeed, at around +250 Deg C the mylar film sample started to melt (Fig. 1), and at around 100 Deg C the polystyrene sample began to deform, although it could be restored back to its original shape.

Figure 1. Sample of mylar film showing permanent damage from melting.
* As there are serious risks of damage if these materials are exposed to elevated temperatures, temperature monitoring was implemented for the diaphragm heat shrink process.

Method

• As documented in the related reports, the following heat shrinking method was performed after all repairs had been made to the MK-121-2 interface and stator wires.
• Safety. Ensure speaker power is disconnected and the panels have fully discharged before performing the heat shrinking.
• As extensively described and posted on the diyAudio page "Acoustat Answer Man is here", there are numerous excellent guidance and helpful hints to follow when performing a mylar diaphragm heat shrinking. Examples include keeping the heat gun at 6-inches distance, keeping the heat gun always moving, never stopping in one place etc.
• The HAKO portable heat gun (Fig. 2) temperature output described in Table 1 is adjustable up to +400 Deg C, indeed this is way more than ever needed, and if used without temperature control and monitoring could seriously damage the speaker panel.

Figure 2. Portable heat gun, model HAKO FV-300 with optional spatula nozzle fitted.

• For the HAKO heat gun settings, I used a temperature position of "3", where minimum position "0" is the lowest temperature setting, with maximum position "10" being the highest temperature setting.
• Together with the spatula nozzle fitted to disperse the heat gun's airflow, keeping the nozzle at distance from the diaphragm, and keeping the heat gun moving at all times worked well.
• Utilizing the Fluke DVM temperature measuring function with the thermocouple tip carefully placed between the stator wires and diaphragm (Fig. 3), allowed for monitoring of the panel's temperature in real time. Then, for the next area where heat shrinking was conducted the thermocouple tip was moved to the next area accordingly.

Figure 3. Example showing thermocouple tip carefully placed inside the panel.

* First, the setup was checked to be working properly before applying heat to the diaphragm (Fig. 4).

Figure 4. Test of setup at room temperature before applying heat.

* Throughout the heat-shrinking process the temperature was carefully monitored, keeping the measured temperature in a range between 60 Deg C (Fig. 5) and maximum 70 Deg C. My objective was to ensure the maximum temperature stayed well below the Vical softening temperature of 90 Deg C for polystyrene.

Figure 5. Example of temperature monitoring during heat shrinking.

Observations and Precautions

• As described on the diyAudio page "Acoustat Answer Man is here", the precautions of keeping the heat gun at 6-inches distance, keeping the heat gun always moving, never stopping in one place etc. proved to be very sound advice.
• For example, I observed that just taking your eyes off the heat gun for a few seconds or pausing movement of the heat gun for a few seconds could cause the monitored temperature to easily jump up +5 deg C.
• After completion of the heat shrinking process, significant heat is retained within the panel, and this will take considerable time to cool down and reach rest state. Suggest keeping the temperature monitoring circuitry intact until it is confirmed the panel has returned to normal room temperature (Fig. 4), before power can be connected to the speakers.

Heat Gun vs. Hair Dryer?
* On the diyAudio page "Acoustat Answer Man is here" some members have commented they achieved acceptable heat shrinking results with just a hair dryer, although others have commented proper results could only be achieved using a heat gun. While I respect both comments, I thought it would be interesting to see what our home hair dryer (Fig 6.) was capable of.

Figure 6. Home hair dryer, Panasonic model nanocare.

• Looking at the manufacturer's product specifications, my wife's hair dryer is rated 1200 W, whereas my heat gun is rated a little less at 1000 W. To comply with health and safety regulations a commercial hair dryer has temperature limiting to prevent burning of scalp/skin, nevertheless I was intrigued to find out what a 1200 W hair dryer could do.
• With this hair dryer set to maximum heat setting and repeating the setup including temperature monitoring, a brief test showed that I was able to achieve +60 Deg C on the panel surface. Although it might take longer time, it would seem this model of hair dryer could successfully be used (with your wife's permission!) to safely perform the diaphragm heat shrinking.

Final Notes

• I cannot say if the temperature band of 60 deg C to maximum 70 deg C that I chose was optimum, but it did no harm and it maintained an important safety margin below the Vical softening temperature of 90 Deg C for polystyrene. Of course, there may be other methods of performing diaphragm heat shrinking, this report is intended to share amongst our members what worked for me.
• As mentioned in the Preface, the objective was to try heat shrinking the mylar diaphragm as a last resort to see if the remaining random clicking noises in one of the panels could be minimized. But as there was nothing initially wrong with the diaphragms, i.e. no noticeable looseness or wrinkles, it's hard to say in this case the heat shrinking process made any difference to the random clicking noises.
• However, this exercise proved that when using a heat gun the heat shrinking process can be done safely in a controlled manner, and with a suitable high output hair dryer it may be possible to achieve successful heat shrinking having little risk of overheating damage.

Parts Express only has one left and doesn’t seem to be getting more. Does anyone have one lying around they wouldn’t mind selling? Thanks in advance.

Thought I would share a couple of things for other beginners;
1. A very inexpensive and useful tool is a lead bender. These can save a lot of time and enhance the look of your build.
2. My first few builds were done w/out flux On my current build I began w/out and then started using it, far superior results w/.
I said a couple, but the use of flux does require flux cleaner, I'm looking at options but @poseidonsvoice has suggested Chemtronics as well as his OCD 😉 method in this post

Lastly double and triple check as you go, fixing mistakes is at best time consuming and at worst can ruin a part.

Hello. I have a silly question, as a result of having read that the low-pass inductor in a crossover does have an iron or ferrite core, as the current passed through it increases (by increasing the volume in the amplifier), there comes a point where is short-circuited.
Is that so? I ask because I have some B&W DM602 S1 speakers whose pso-low inducts have an iron core.
Greetings and thanks for responding.