@vitalica
A very inspirational design, I'm pleased to have discovered this build.
I intend on using the Beyma TPL 150 with the Beyma 12P80ND.
After the Initial Prototype, it would be great to produce a end product like yours.
Is this going to be Active or Passive ?
I am also completely inexperienced with Xover's in any guise
A very inspirational design, I'm pleased to have discovered this build.
I intend on using the Beyma TPL 150 with the Beyma 12P80ND.
After the Initial Prototype, it would be great to produce a end product like yours.
Is this going to be Active or Passive ?
I am also completely inexperienced with Xover's in any guise
This obviously depends on how much equalisation is applied to extend bass response, assuming eq is being used of course, but I would be surprised if your amplifiers were not enough. I have about 18dB eq applied to my four xls10 subwoofers equalised to 17Hz and driven by two 60 watt amplifers. It can shake the room without the amplifier getting warm.
After almost a year, I finished this open baffle project with AE and Beyma speakers. Now comes the hardest part for me, the crossover settings. I don't have much experience (practically zero), but ...I hope to be able to get a good result.
I wanted to get some advice, please. If I still have an OCTO DAC8 PRO with 8 channels, it would be an advantage if a Dipole 15 bass speaker (two 16R coil) would go up to about 80 Hz, and another Dipole 15 (two 16 R coil) would go from at 80 Htz to 250 Htz?
That is to make a separation for 4 bands:
80 Htz
80--250 Htz
250--2500 Htz
2500 --20000 Htz
Or is it better to use both speakers in parallel for frequencies up to 250 Htz?
Thank you very much for your help
Congrats!
So you did fix the Dipole 15 from the magnet to the structure! I thought they would hang from the panel. Looks great.
Looking forward to your listening impressions and measurements, especially around the TD8M and xo to TPL. 2.5kHz seems kind of high on paper for the 8", but maybe these are different.
Still in an apartment, still wanting the impression of deep bass without the ground penetrating effects of using two subs for distributed bass.
I do love the horn-dipole hybrids I built some time ago, but now wanted something smaller and different.
Despite appearances, these are not regular line arrays in practice. They are MMTMM arrays, a single tweeter passively highpassed at 3000 hertz,- 6db, to two pair of tweeters passively lowpassed at -3db to the tweeter, also first order. The woofers paired with these are 4th order band passed at 900 hertz and 120 hertz.
The two W Frames are 4th order lowpassed at 120 hertz, with some slight adjustment to 90 hertz on the plated amplifier powering them, to compensate for the semi enclosed resonances.
It's vastly improved in playback compared to the box subs for these, and the extra reflections allowed through by the small woofer baffles is a treat. The longer height of the upper mid-treble baffle supports and manages the frequencies as a few mock ups indicated, and the array allows wide horizontal dispersion, while limiting ceiling and floor reflections.
The crossover points chosen eliminate interdriver comb filtering, except for the transition between the one true tweeter, and the ones used as upper mids. Not sure how to get less than a three inch centre to centre spacing for this, and still match the dispersion requirements I was after.
It works better than I'd hoped. Sweet smooth sound at all listening positions in the room, while the angled baffle limits front wall reflections without eliminating them.
The centre fill of the open backed bass non cabinets seems perfect for me.
I do love the horn-dipole hybrids I built some time ago, but now wanted something smaller and different.
Despite appearances, these are not regular line arrays in practice. They are MMTMM arrays, a single tweeter passively highpassed at 3000 hertz,- 6db, to two pair of tweeters passively lowpassed at -3db to the tweeter, also first order. The woofers paired with these are 4th order band passed at 900 hertz and 120 hertz.
The two W Frames are 4th order lowpassed at 120 hertz, with some slight adjustment to 90 hertz on the plated amplifier powering them, to compensate for the semi enclosed resonances.
It's vastly improved in playback compared to the box subs for these, and the extra reflections allowed through by the small woofer baffles is a treat. The longer height of the upper mid-treble baffle supports and manages the frequencies as a few mock ups indicated, and the array allows wide horizontal dispersion, while limiting ceiling and floor reflections.
The crossover points chosen eliminate interdriver comb filtering, except for the transition between the one true tweeter, and the ones used as upper mids. Not sure how to get less than a three inch centre to centre spacing for this, and still match the dispersion requirements I was after.
It works better than I'd hoped. Sweet smooth sound at all listening positions in the room, while the angled baffle limits front wall reflections without eliminating them.
The centre fill of the open backed bass non cabinets seems perfect for me.
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Hey there, I'm new to the forum and the first topic I searched for was open baffle. I just love open baffle speakers, especially when it comes to bass and mid rang. I'd love to share my latest speakers with you. Currently, I configured them as a passive 2.5-way system (2nd crossover prototype). Response wise they look pretty ok and sound wise they perform more than satisfying. Soundstage is just awesome. However, I'll do at least one more crossover iteration to optimize the respone. Cable management and crossover placement is still in test bench phase.
PS: I hope I got this thread right and posted appropriately.
PS: I hope I got this thread right and posted appropriately.
Attachments
simple and beautiful, congrats!
and more details about the units used? have you measured or calculated impedance and sensitivity?
I'll post an old response curve when I'm back on my laptop. Currently I have some problems with REW under Linux. I can't get the output to work. I'd like to present a more controlled response, impedance, and waterfall plot here.
For the build I used two Visaton WS 25 E woofers and a Visaton DT 94 tweeter. Both woofer play from bottem up, one rolls off at about 100 Hz, the other one crosses over wirh the tweeter. There is a small gap at the crossover point since the tweeter doesn't reach that low. Subjectively, I like this coloration, however, I'll swap the tweeter sooner or later. As I said, it's not that noticable and I'd rather have a dip at this frequency than a unpleasant peak. Personal preferences.
The current crossover layout is rather simple. The bass filling woofer rolls off with a 2nd order low pass, the broader range woofer rolls off steaper with a 3rd order low pass and a notch filter to grount to handle a hump at higher frequencies (I guess, it's due to the cone properties of the woofer), and the tweeter is brought in with a simple first order high pass and is brought down bit with a resistor.
I have short demo clips, unfortunately recorded on my Galaxy Tab. However, with headphones on, you can grasp at least an idea of the capability of the speakers.
DIY Open Baffle speakers | demo 1 - LinuxRocks PeerTube
DIY Open Baffle speakers | demo 2 - LinuxRocks PeerTube
For the build I used two Visaton WS 25 E woofers and a Visaton DT 94 tweeter. Both woofer play from bottem up, one rolls off at about 100 Hz, the other one crosses over wirh the tweeter. There is a small gap at the crossover point since the tweeter doesn't reach that low. Subjectively, I like this coloration, however, I'll swap the tweeter sooner or later. As I said, it's not that noticable and I'd rather have a dip at this frequency than a unpleasant peak. Personal preferences.
The current crossover layout is rather simple. The bass filling woofer rolls off with a 2nd order low pass, the broader range woofer rolls off steaper with a 3rd order low pass and a notch filter to grount to handle a hump at higher frequencies (I guess, it's due to the cone properties of the woofer), and the tweeter is brought in with a simple first order high pass and is brought down bit with a resistor.
I have short demo clips, unfortunately recorded on my Galaxy Tab. However, with headphones on, you can grasp at least an idea of the capability of the speakers.
DIY Open Baffle speakers | demo 1 - LinuxRocks PeerTube
DIY Open Baffle speakers | demo 2 - LinuxRocks PeerTube
I almost chose the WS25E for my build but ended up with a single 830669.
The WS25E simulate really nice and is soo cheap! They play very deep, even in a very narrow baffle at the cost of running out of excursion very early.
That´s why you need at least 2pcs. per side or put them in a h-frame.
Hello joensd,
I have 2x WS25E drivers that are used only as the ripole subwoofer part of a single Visaton Petit Orgue speaker. I like the idea of trying them in 2x h-frame 'cabinets'. Would you have a suggested size for such h-frames? Or, do you think I would still need 2 in each h-frame? A total of 4x WS25E's. Thank you for any suggestions you may have.
Regards,
Simon
Another forum member (markus76) used a h-frame:
Visaton ws25e-8 and H-frame
Unfortunately the picture doesn´t show up anymore.
I think I saved it to my hard-drive at the time. PM you later.
You can simulate in Basta or AJ-horn to find the max. SPL at the xmax of the driver. I´d guess one driver in a h-frame is enough if you don´t listen too loud and don´t sit to far away from your speakers.
Please don´t forget that the WS25E in a h-frame is an entirely different speaker:
A h-frame will have a resonance and you will not be able to use it>>300Hz or so and thus cross it over to a tweeter.
If you want to cross to a tweeter ~2kHz or higher, use a baffle like Irkiosan, or a U-frame.
BTW.: in the german hifi-forum somebody built a 2x12"-h-frame out of these:
KALLAX Regal, weiss, 77x42 cm - IKEA Deutschland
Not very stable but with some weight on top it could work OK.
Visaton ws25e-8 and H-frame
Unfortunately the picture doesn´t show up anymore.
I think I saved it to my hard-drive at the time. PM you later.
You can simulate in Basta or AJ-horn to find the max. SPL at the xmax of the driver. I´d guess one driver in a h-frame is enough if you don´t listen too loud and don´t sit to far away from your speakers.
Please don´t forget that the WS25E in a h-frame is an entirely different speaker:
A h-frame will have a resonance and you will not be able to use it>>300Hz or so and thus cross it over to a tweeter.
If you want to cross to a tweeter ~2kHz or higher, use a baffle like Irkiosan, or a U-frame.
BTW.: in the german hifi-forum somebody built a 2x12"-h-frame out of these:
KALLAX Regal, weiss, 77x42 cm - IKEA Deutschland
Not very stable but with some weight on top it could work OK.
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