Thanks for the reply just curious what is the celestion and compression driver crossed over at is it like the bastanis at 7khzi have made the phase with a woodturning machine,it's spruce, the felt pads is just furniture pads and the cone is treated/dopped with JOHA oil varnish
The celestion is running free😀, on the tweeter has a 1uf+0.01uf
I am still waffling between open baffle single drivers without or with helper tweeters.there is no anaomalies, not what i can hear
Just now I've stuck with some independently mounted and aimed 1 inch 4 ohm domes, with 2uF caps bypassed with some 0.01uf foil in wax paper caps I've had for ages.
I'm surprised at still gradually preferring less and less upper treble. I've gone from 8 ohm more efficient tweeters with the same few caps to 4 ohms , for more efficiency and higher frequency.
Iteration of my own system. Revolves around Vifa P13WH mid and tweeters, cheap woofers from Jaycar, and another pair I found on the side of the road 😀
My first was very easy. Large room allows large baffle. Very satisfiying.
Hi! Fisrt time in DIY audio forums and came across this thread with your open baffle builds. Wondering if you have a build thread I can follow? Especially interested in the build in the final picture and wondering if these are successful as close to the wall as you have pictured them?
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DonnF, please check his homepage https://gainphile.blogspot.com/
Other good sites about dipoles/open baffles - you must understand the physics...
https://www.linkwitzlab.com/
https://musicanddesign.speakerdesign.net/products.html
http://www.dipolplus.de/
Other good sites about dipoles/open baffles - you must understand the physics...
https://www.linkwitzlab.com/
https://musicanddesign.speakerdesign.net/products.html
http://www.dipolplus.de/
Hi all,
here my last stereo setup in a quite normal room where i work in my home office
inspired of a huge horn setup - the Goto drive units cathedral
i tried to combine in my small room a multi horn setup with an open baffle approach
7 way each side:
subwoofer - lower bass - upper bass - lower midrange horn - upper midrange horn - tweeter horn - back firing horn for dipole effect in the range of the front firing horns
given the fact that the listening distance is quite short i am surprised that it works not too bad
i spent hours and hours in a couple of days in taking measurements again and again (Clio pocket) until all 7 ways fits more or less together


here my last stereo setup in a quite normal room where i work in my home office
inspired of a huge horn setup - the Goto drive units cathedral
i tried to combine in my small room a multi horn setup with an open baffle approach
7 way each side:
subwoofer - lower bass - upper bass - lower midrange horn - upper midrange horn - tweeter horn - back firing horn for dipole effect in the range of the front firing horns
given the fact that the listening distance is quite short i am surprised that it works not too bad
i spent hours and hours in a couple of days in taking measurements again and again (Clio pocket) until all 7 ways fits more or less together


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Wow! Looks like we're on different paths! I went from conventional multiways, to isobaric multiways, to multiways with di or bi-pole mids and tweeters, to horn and cone dipole hybrids, to dipole single drivers with conventional sub, to dipole sub, to just open baffle single driver and sometimes an open baffle sub.
These days I'm OCD enough to have problems placing 2 speakers as I like them for all around sources. Good on you for getting this to work for you!
These days I'm OCD enough to have problems placing 2 speakers as I like them for all around sources. Good on you for getting this to work for you!
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Hi there,
the POC for the Goto horns and drive units cathedral sound disaster remediation has gone to the next level with a super tweeter for frequencies > 9 kHz
i was convinced that this will never work with the 150 cm left speaker 350 cm right speaker asymmetrical listening position at my desk in my quite small home office room
fiddled around a lot with nearfield measurements with CLIO for the drive units as such and the crossover between them, tedious work
thought this will never work
attached my latest purchase miniDSP Flex 8 DL for Dirac room correction and ...
it works far better that expected, Dirac has made my day
So far, so good, Stefano
P.S.: it is 5 way + subs and 1 separate way for the backfiring horn (18sound XR1496 old aluminium version with 18sound NSD1480N compression driver) for the dipole effect
the Visaton TL16H, the 12cm LMH wood horn with the 18sound NSD1095N and the 22cm LMH wood horn with the B&C DCM414-16 are driven with the FA123 plate amp, all other stuff is too noisy for the high efficiency compression drivers
the rest is driven with a miniDSP 2 X4 HD in 1 X 4 layout one for the left and one for the right channel with Crown XLi 800 and Behringer A800 amps for the Sonido SFR200A custom with the 46cm LMH wood horn, the 2 X 15 inch kick bass in series to 16 ohm and the 21 inch woofer sub where Dirac tells me that with the 3.50 meters X 5.50 meters room under 36 Hz there is nothing correctable anymore
the Flex 8 DL is working only for Dirac room correction at time, i think i can swap to the Flex 8 DL 3 of the 4 channels of the miniDSP 2 X 4 HD units, but i need to get rid of all the NF cables that i need to switch for this, not today anymore...
the POC for the Goto horns and drive units cathedral sound disaster remediation has gone to the next level with a super tweeter for frequencies > 9 kHz
i was convinced that this will never work with the 150 cm left speaker 350 cm right speaker asymmetrical listening position at my desk in my quite small home office room
fiddled around a lot with nearfield measurements with CLIO for the drive units as such and the crossover between them, tedious work
thought this will never work
attached my latest purchase miniDSP Flex 8 DL for Dirac room correction and ...
it works far better that expected, Dirac has made my day
So far, so good, Stefano
P.S.: it is 5 way + subs and 1 separate way for the backfiring horn (18sound XR1496 old aluminium version with 18sound NSD1480N compression driver) for the dipole effect
the Visaton TL16H, the 12cm LMH wood horn with the 18sound NSD1095N and the 22cm LMH wood horn with the B&C DCM414-16 are driven with the FA123 plate amp, all other stuff is too noisy for the high efficiency compression drivers
the rest is driven with a miniDSP 2 X4 HD in 1 X 4 layout one for the left and one for the right channel with Crown XLi 800 and Behringer A800 amps for the Sonido SFR200A custom with the 46cm LMH wood horn, the 2 X 15 inch kick bass in series to 16 ohm and the 21 inch woofer sub where Dirac tells me that with the 3.50 meters X 5.50 meters room under 36 Hz there is nothing correctable anymore
the Flex 8 DL is working only for Dirac room correction at time, i think i can swap to the Flex 8 DL 3 of the 4 channels of the miniDSP 2 X 4 HD units, but i need to get rid of all the NF cables that i need to switch for this, not today anymore...
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https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/ultimate-open-baffle-gallery.123512/post-7669194
decent left channel right channel photos by daylight
decent left channel right channel photos by daylight
I've been wanting to try this, but don't know how to choose crossover points with this.
I'm considering a two or three way, with the diameters matching their frequency wavelengths at the crossover points, while a bass panel supplies deeper bass.
I'd still rely on dipole cancellation to minimize impact on my apartment neighbours.
I'm considering a two or three way, with the diameters matching their frequency wavelengths at the crossover points, while a bass panel supplies deeper bass.
I'd still rely on dipole cancellation to minimize impact on my apartment neighbours.
Greetings all,
here is my attempt.
I have a question for those, who have been listening to open baffles for a while.
The sound is different from what I experienced with other speakers. We do not have well developed language to described sound, so the best I can do is to say that when I close eyes, I have a difficulty to localize the (for now) single speaker. It sounds like if the entire front wall were the sound source, and I cannot quite estimate the distance to the speaker. Compared to other speakers it sounds - I hesitate to use the word - little artificial.
Will this change with stereo speakers? Will one adjust to the rather - again please forgive the imprecise term - three-dimensional sound?
Kindest regards,
M
here is my attempt.
I have a question for those, who have been listening to open baffles for a while.
The sound is different from what I experienced with other speakers. We do not have well developed language to described sound, so the best I can do is to say that when I close eyes, I have a difficulty to localize the (for now) single speaker. It sounds like if the entire front wall were the sound source, and I cannot quite estimate the distance to the speaker. Compared to other speakers it sounds - I hesitate to use the word - little artificial.
Will this change with stereo speakers? Will one adjust to the rather - again please forgive the imprecise term - three-dimensional sound?
Kindest regards,
M
To judge a single speaker you need to play some mono material. And even then it's difficult.
Build the second speaker and listen again.
Also looks like your speaker is OB only up to maybe 1 - 2 kHz unless your tweeter is with open back. So not really full range OB.
That will have a big impact on how the speaker sounds.
Build the second speaker and listen again.
Also looks like your speaker is OB only up to maybe 1 - 2 kHz unless your tweeter is with open back. So not really full range OB.
That will have a big impact on how the speaker sounds.
A makeup option: You could try to suck out the dented dustcap with a vacuum cleaner. It may work by carefully (!) applying the cleaner's tube directly over the affected aera of the dustcap, of by fitting a small cup/can to apply the vacuum onto the whole dustcap including a bit of the surrounding speaker's membrane. This technique can work very well, also for dented tweeter/midrange domes.
Caution: You will have to increasingly adjust the vacuum cleaner's rpm for a pleasant result without damaging the driver. It happened to me once that I sucked the whole dustcap away. Therefore my explicit disclaimer: You proceed at your own risk.
If you succeed, this will not change anything about the acoustics behavior of the driver. As mentionned by the word "makeup" above, it's only for aesthetics sake.
Caution: You will have to increasingly adjust the vacuum cleaner's rpm for a pleasant result without damaging the driver. It happened to me once that I sucked the whole dustcap away. Therefore my explicit disclaimer: You proceed at your own risk.
If you succeed, this will not change anything about the acoustics behavior of the driver. As mentionned by the word "makeup" above, it's only for aesthetics sake.
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ob dipoles sound best with cöassical big orchestras, then you feel like in live concert. Pop rock is mixed for normal speakers
Did you 3D print the blue mounting adapter?
Hi there,
my listening experience has improved a lot with a backfire horn in addition, but you need either an L-Pad for passive or a separate amp for active crossover
here a construction example not mine taken from a german forum
hope it helps, Stefano
my listening experience has improved a lot with a backfire horn in addition, but you need either an L-Pad for passive or a separate amp for active crossover
here a construction example not mine taken from a german forum
hope it helps, Stefano
It took several tries and even several iterations with the same drivers. Finally I have open baffles that outperform any other speaker I've heard with any genre, even cinema.ob dipoles sound best with cöassical big orchestras, then you feel like in live concert. Pop rock is mixed for normal speakers
Not in the usual hi fi way of "listen to that bass" "listen to that treble", just the subjective way it sounds completely natural to me.
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