SBA_SLOB Can be car body and washing machine, etc. Will it be necessary to produce using the same method?
Sized to recall square number ratio 1:4 :9, and my best guess for the dipole peak to hit where the open baffle bass roll off is, to extend a little deeper than a smaller design earlier.
It turned out okay, with JUST enough bass for the musics I listen to.
When used with the home theatre receiver, they get actively crossed to a sub.
Same ratio of corporeal dimensions as the 2001: A Space Odyssey black all purpose constructs, so I guess I'll call them the Monoliths.
It turned out okay, with JUST enough bass for the musics I listen to.
When used with the home theatre receiver, they get actively crossed to a sub.
Same ratio of corporeal dimensions as the 2001: A Space Odyssey black all purpose constructs, so I guess I'll call them the Monoliths.
A cylon ship, 2 T-Rex’s, King Kong, and R2D2 - what’s not to like? 😎
Sorry, Sonido is the hungarian firm in Budapest (capital of Hungary).
Bucharest is the capital of Romania. 😳
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In Slovakia. One guy makes them. ut he said no more. So after we heard these incerdible speakers with elelktro magnets we would like to start to build them. We also trying to find a source of these drivers, so far without succes.
Listen, no analog, just digital from pc through mediocre dac with grey cheapest LAN cable 🙂
A small change for my speakers. I was trying out some leftover helper planar tweeters, but they were made for some stand mounted speakers, and sit too high for the vertical dispersion I want.
I'm liking these little Seas fabric domes. Wider dispersion and not fixed to the open baffles, they let me angle the main baffles and their reflections away from me.
This drops the pretty directional treble from a lot. The tweeters are highpassed first order for a -3db point of about 15000hz, and are -db at 7500 hz where their diameter stops supporting output.
It's a snap to aim them independently where I listen from.
Having my wide tall baffles with a lot less bad stuff.
My speakers are shared between an AVR and music only DAC and turntable.
With the angling this allows, the phantom centre is actually far superior using my centre speaker, and in stereo last night and this morning, I've double checked a few times to make sure the receiver isn't even on when thinking I heard instruments behind me.
I'm liking these little Seas fabric domes. Wider dispersion and not fixed to the open baffles, they let me angle the main baffles and their reflections away from me.
This drops the pretty directional treble from a lot. The tweeters are highpassed first order for a -3db point of about 15000hz, and are -db at 7500 hz where their diameter stops supporting output.
It's a snap to aim them independently where I listen from.
Having my wide tall baffles with a lot less bad stuff.
My speakers are shared between an AVR and music only DAC and turntable.
With the angling this allows, the phantom centre is actually far superior using my centre speaker, and in stereo last night and this morning, I've double checked a few times to make sure the receiver isn't even on when thinking I heard instruments behind me.
Settled on using the subwoofer drivers in a previous folded open baffle pair for distributed mono bass with the big OB panels.
90° sideways needs just a little more gain than exposed and forward firing, but I much prefer it to either box sub I have, here used for AV.
I got the idea from a Gradient open baffle I read about years ago. From what I recall, success was very much room dependant, and I lucked out.
I've also settled on some no baffle tweeter, so I can angle those big baffles' reflections away from me, use that to roll off their slightly coarse treble, and aim the tweeters towards me a bit to fill it in.
The tweeters are about 7db less efficient on paper than the 8 ohm 12 inch pair, but I'm supposing their 4 ohm rating makes up most of that. They come in about -3db at 15000 hz.
90° sideways needs just a little more gain than exposed and forward firing, but I much prefer it to either box sub I have, here used for AV.
I got the idea from a Gradient open baffle I read about years ago. From what I recall, success was very much room dependant, and I lucked out.
I've also settled on some no baffle tweeter, so I can angle those big baffles' reflections away from me, use that to roll off their slightly coarse treble, and aim the tweeters towards me a bit to fill it in.
The tweeters are about 7db less efficient on paper than the 8 ohm 12 inch pair, but I'm supposing their 4 ohm rating makes up most of that. They come in about -3db at 15000 hz.
Same thing happened to me as used to happen with 2 ways and their crossovers to tweeters.
I started always hearing the transition from mains to subwoofers, and took them out.
After a week or less, same thing with the tweeters.
No more crossover, just the same tweeters as second order helpers aimed at me, with no toe in of the main speakers.
Less bass for music, but somehow it's more alive harmonically, and things hang together better now.
The speakers are switched to an AVR for movies or TV, and while there use its crossover for integrating a sub.
So far so good
.
I started always hearing the transition from mains to subwoofers, and took them out.
After a week or less, same thing with the tweeters.
No more crossover, just the same tweeters as second order helpers aimed at me, with no toe in of the main speakers.
Less bass for music, but somehow it's more alive harmonically, and things hang together better now.
The speakers are switched to an AVR for movies or TV, and while there use its crossover for integrating a sub.
So far so good
.
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My PAP style OB - Now i just need to decide on the which finish the baffles and bracket should have (and perhaps redo the brackets to get the bend angle perfect 🙂 )
that's beautiful work. Have you considered adding a spar from the rear mast to reinforce the woofer?
Thanks, i haven't thought of it - do you mean to support the weight of the magnet downwards or?
There is a dampener between, where the baffles are mounted on the front masts, to prevent vibrations causing rattling. There is about 5 mm between the front mast and the baffle.
My thoughts were towards bracing the magnet against fore and aft vibrations, sort of a push-pull between the baffle and the driver basket. Just a stick against the magnet, yes.
Thanks, I am using the Biamp6-24 active crossover with an FR EQ from the store, initially, the crossover is 12 dB/Oct and with a -6 dB point at 160-170 Hz.
I just finished them, so I will spend a lot of time the coming months; simulating, tuning, measuring and eksperimenting with, both the EQ and the crossover.
The drivers are a Lii Fast-8 and an 15OB350 bass.
When the Tangband W8-1808 come back in stock at soundimports I might change the Fast-8 to this one.
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The only active crossover I've used lately is in a receiver I use for AV. A useful feature for me is altering its parametric settings on the fly while hearing the changes with program material.
Does the unit you mention allow this?
Does the unit you mention allow this?
It is this one, designed by Nelson Pass (as is the FR EQ):
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diy-biamp-6-24-crossover.357657/
Both using JFET buffers, i have put the relevant caps and resistors in sockets, so they are reconfigurable beyond the potmeters.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/diy-biamp-6-24-crossover.357657/
Both using JFET buffers, i have put the relevant caps and resistors in sockets, so they are reconfigurable beyond the potmeters.
Thanks. It's a lot more involved than my diy skills, and no doubt better too.
Mine stopped at an rca splitter sending a signal to my stereo amp highpassed with a 0.068uF cap per stereo amp channel, and a full range signal to a plate amp.
Good enough for me, and let's me lower the sub lowpass point below a largish 60 hertz room mode spike.
Nice job making it with sockets to facilitate changes.
Mine stopped at an rca splitter sending a signal to my stereo amp highpassed with a 0.068uF cap per stereo amp channel, and a full range signal to a plate amp.
Good enough for me, and let's me lower the sub lowpass point below a largish 60 hertz room mode spike.
Nice job making it with sockets to facilitate changes.