Hi @Stanislav,
thank you for the reply. The cross-over is actually at about 500 Hz. But, I saw open baffle (if the term is still applicable), that have exactly this combination, in fact I discussed this with @Pano.
Hi @Daihedz,
thank you for the information. As I researched it, this was one suggestion, the other one was to drill a small hole in the dust cup and use a small pick. I was also wondering, since the driver is vented, whether I could use a positive pressure through the vent.
Hi @Juhazi,
thank you for the reply. Actually, since I listen mostly to classical, I used that for the initial listening (Tchaikovskij, Bach, Morricone). And, yes, the feeling of space is what I was trying to describe so in-artfully.
Hi @SBA_SLOB_GUY,
Thank you, I can try that. I also have a Heil ATM with a front horn, so it is opened to the rear, so I can try that.
Hi @MITsound,
thank you for the reply. It is not that I do not like it, it is just that it is different form what I heard before. The best, although ridiculous description would be comparing it to the early color movies, wherein the colors were (for me unnaturally) vivid.
I have constructed the baffle to easily add extension, so I will play with that plus different cross-over point, equalization, etc.
Kindest regards,
M
thank you for the reply. The cross-over is actually at about 500 Hz. But, I saw open baffle (if the term is still applicable), that have exactly this combination, in fact I discussed this with @Pano.
Hi @Daihedz,
thank you for the information. As I researched it, this was one suggestion, the other one was to drill a small hole in the dust cup and use a small pick. I was also wondering, since the driver is vented, whether I could use a positive pressure through the vent.
Hi @Juhazi,
thank you for the reply. Actually, since I listen mostly to classical, I used that for the initial listening (Tchaikovskij, Bach, Morricone). And, yes, the feeling of space is what I was trying to describe so in-artfully.
Hi @SBA_SLOB_GUY,
Thank you, I can try that. I also have a Heil ATM with a front horn, so it is opened to the rear, so I can try that.
Hi @MITsound,
thank you for the reply. It is not that I do not like it, it is just that it is different form what I heard before. The best, although ridiculous description would be comparing it to the early color movies, wherein the colors were (for me unnaturally) vivid.
I have constructed the baffle to easily add extension, so I will play with that plus different cross-over point, equalization, etc.
Kindest regards,
M
Last edited:
@mefistofelez I appreciate the use of various screws, nuts and bolts to secure your woofers. I employ the same technique to take advantage of the different resonant frequencies of the various fasteners; This is often over looked, well done!
Hi @mordikai,
Kindest regards,
M
ROTFLMAO, this is completely unintentional; I ran out of the socket head screws of the correct length..
Kindest regards,
M
I didn't expect it to work (and it didn't, through several attempts over the years), but the reason I went to open baffles was finding things lacking and things added from conventional cabinet or transmission line speakers.
I think I fully agree with you it sounds different; in my case it's finally what I was after. So far. I've had many speakers I thought were "it" speakers for me in the past.
Hopefully I won't be getting the urge for making more sawdust any time soon.
Or at least cleaning it up.
I have same driver, and have been thinking to try open back. Will the lower range change much? I need to cross at 1100 hz. I just got the drivers, so I have not tried them out yet.
i don't know, i only use a 1.0 uf so the tweeter is long gone by 1100hz
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi audio enthusiasts,
in addition to this
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/ultimate-open-baffle-gallery.123512/post-7669705
i posted additional info here
https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/dirac-reviews.50223/post-1969406
So far - so good, Stefano
in addition to this
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/ultimate-open-baffle-gallery.123512/post-7669705
i posted additional info here
https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/dirac-reviews.50223/post-1969406
So far - so good, Stefano
After changing the caps (somewhat- I connected a 0.33uf cap in series with a 0.047uf cap to lower capacitance to 0.041uf) highpassing my power amp, I found the highest treble a little smoother than before.
I disconnected the helper tweeters, and found things a bit too rough up high without the 0.15mh coils I'd been using.
I've wound up leaving the tweeters out, and using some old Intertechnic 0.12mh caps unwound to 0.07mh.
Things are a little less detailed with cymbal heavy music passages, but overall better in other ways I think.
Doing just enough works better here than overthinking things, with this speaker.
I disconnected the helper tweeters, and found things a bit too rough up high without the 0.15mh coils I'd been using.
I've wound up leaving the tweeters out, and using some old Intertechnic 0.12mh caps unwound to 0.07mh.
Things are a little less detailed with cymbal heavy music passages, but overall better in other ways I think.
Doing just enough works better here than overthinking things, with this speaker.
Hi,
this is my OB design. 2 Peerles SLS 12" drivers, Seas Excel W17EX2 midranges and my own pure ribbon 30x2,2cm(5 micron foil).
Crossover at 200 and 1500 Hz. Interesting is that OB cancellation compensation is not necessary. Front glass plate is
physically isolated from drivers to not transmit vibrations. Construction is made of 5mm steel. Front plate 10mm plexiglass.
this is my OB design. 2 Peerles SLS 12" drivers, Seas Excel W17EX2 midranges and my own pure ribbon 30x2,2cm(5 micron foil).
Crossover at 200 and 1500 Hz. Interesting is that OB cancellation compensation is not necessary. Front glass plate is
physically isolated from drivers to not transmit vibrations. Construction is made of 5mm steel. Front plate 10mm plexiglass.
Attachments
Yes, I have upped the file for the Celestion Seventy80 to Printables, the highs are an out of production 1990s Radio Shack car speaker.
https://www.printables.com/model/860085-pole-katz-naked-open-baffle-speaker-system
3-way series? I've tried not successful. 2-way is ok, sound nice. Maybe best combination for 3-way is to connect bass in parallel and midrange and tweeter in series.
I already know I'll need EQ boosting of the low end, but the rest sounded pretty good in mono on one speaker. I think it'll be a while before I can get it stable, safe, and useable. 
Interesting I don't use wide baflle but I don't need low end compensation. My Perless drivers have qts 0.57. I use 2x12" per side, you can see photos in my previous post
3 way series is quite ok especially 1st order. Also has the benefit of increasing the slope of the tweeter section and providing better protection for the tweet.
Working on my first ever pair of speakers. I've been reading and researching a long time before starting.
The drivers, so far, are sonido 096 field coil wide Rangers and jbl123a-1. So far I absolutely love both.
I'm using a vintage pioneer active crossover and I also have a minidsp I haven't connected yet.
Right now I'm just enjoying playing around but I'm kind of shocked how good they sound. I would already rate them near the top end of speakers I've heard (and I've heard plenty of excellent and big money speakers). It's pretty cool to be able to enjoy them so much while also slowly actually building them.
I haven't decided what I'm doing with the lows yet. I bought the JBL to be mid bass but they do have 25 fs and 7.8xmax...ajd they sound great crossed to my subwoofer at 40. I have leeway to go down to 240 easy on my sonido so..
Tomorrow I'm going to try a baffle I've modelled that has deep but partial wings foe the JBL. 22" wide by 28 high, with 22" wings and a backward tilt. I picked up vintage realistic (fostex) super tweeters and I'm going to try them rear firing and up firing.
If I decide to add another woofer, and I likely will, it will be the SB audience 150350. I'm debating trying some original heils even though I intend to cross high, around 8000...but the heil just appeal to me even if they aren't really super tweeter types.
Open to all suggestions and ideas on any level about anything.
The drivers, so far, are sonido 096 field coil wide Rangers and jbl123a-1. So far I absolutely love both.
I'm using a vintage pioneer active crossover and I also have a minidsp I haven't connected yet.
Right now I'm just enjoying playing around but I'm kind of shocked how good they sound. I would already rate them near the top end of speakers I've heard (and I've heard plenty of excellent and big money speakers). It's pretty cool to be able to enjoy them so much while also slowly actually building them.
I haven't decided what I'm doing with the lows yet. I bought the JBL to be mid bass but they do have 25 fs and 7.8xmax...ajd they sound great crossed to my subwoofer at 40. I have leeway to go down to 240 easy on my sonido so..
Tomorrow I'm going to try a baffle I've modelled that has deep but partial wings foe the JBL. 22" wide by 28 high, with 22" wings and a backward tilt. I picked up vintage realistic (fostex) super tweeters and I'm going to try them rear firing and up firing.
If I decide to add another woofer, and I likely will, it will be the SB audience 150350. I'm debating trying some original heils even though I intend to cross high, around 8000...but the heil just appeal to me even if they aren't really super tweeter types.
Open to all suggestions and ideas on any level about anything.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1671134483/urban-fidelity-speakers
The kickstart did't seem to make them run...
105 backers pledged $26,889 to help bring this project to life.
Last updated March 26, 2013
The kickstart did't seem to make them run...
105 backers pledged $26,889 to help bring this project to life.
Last updated March 26, 2013