it"s your fault you decide to live so far away
i'v got one on order and the shipping cost is luckily very reasonable
You MUST tell us all about how it sounds compared to other great DAC´s especially based on TDA154X without digital filters...
sure i will , i'm used to this kind of dac i had a metrum dac ( R2R and no output stage) and a early TOTALDAC A1 with had no digital filter or output stage like the mosaic T dac and some DIY I2S /1543 dac . i like them all the TOTALDAC was the best of them ( the more expensive too) but the lack of output stage was given him a too high output impedance near 10K and i have tried to make few output stage with 2SK170 buffer and even a fancy DHT 26 Ccs tube stage but i failed to keep the natural sound of it"s direct output.
hope this new one will suit my needs
Please do comparison with your previous dac against the mosaic t!
and i have tried to make few output stage with 2SK170 buffer and even a fancy DHT 26 Ccs tube stage but i failed to keep the natural sound of it"s direct output.
hope this new one will suit my needs
my english can't permit that
I can translate it for the rest of us
About interconnections
one of the bad things of having pre-power combinations is that we are having double the interphases: output to RCA (or whatever) connector; female RCA to male RCA jack; RCA jack to interconnect conductor; interconnect conductor to other end RCA male...and all over again. And even the best connectors deteriorate the sound. That's why I long ago gave up speaker binding posts (I use them only for pressing output and speaker cables together) and that's why I will start simplifying my interconnections wherever I can.
Sorry for slight OT.
Cheers,
M.
Hi all,
Just would like to say that for those of you using the TDA1541 for 48 kHz or 96 kHz reproduction (or maybe a PCM1704) there's a 6.144 MHz crystal available in the "The Well Tempered ... " thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ow-phase-noise-jitter-crystal-oscillator.html
We have been able to get a quote on a low No. of crystals, however, it would be feasible if one - or more - of the diyaudio members were interested in buying one.
Price for this particular crystal - due to the relatively low Nos currently on order - will be 44 EUR + shipment from Italy to where you may be.
FYI I've been told that the frequency range around 5 MHz should be the sweet spot for lowest phase noise from a crystal (please don't ask me any specifics, though, as this is not my most knowledgeable field).
If you are interested then please send me a PM ASAP as the group buy is closing very shortly (a few days).
Cheers,
Jesper
Just would like to say that for those of you using the TDA1541 for 48 kHz or 96 kHz reproduction (or maybe a PCM1704) there's a 6.144 MHz crystal available in the "The Well Tempered ... " thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...ow-phase-noise-jitter-crystal-oscillator.html
We have been able to get a quote on a low No. of crystals, however, it would be feasible if one - or more - of the diyaudio members were interested in buying one.
Price for this particular crystal - due to the relatively low Nos currently on order - will be 44 EUR + shipment from Italy to where you may be.
FYI I've been told that the frequency range around 5 MHz should be the sweet spot for lowest phase noise from a crystal (please don't ask me any specifics, though, as this is not my most knowledgeable field).
If you are interested then please send me a PM ASAP as the group buy is closing very shortly (a few days).
Cheers,
Jesper
Hi Bertel,
Longer Toslink interlinks will introduce more jitter as can be seen in my previous post. So for lowest jitter at the optical receiver in the Mosaic T DAC you would require a 0.5 ... 1 meter Toslink interlink.
Then it is more practical to use the XTOS as it can be placed relatively close to the Mosaic T DAC (0.5 ... 1 meter Toslink interlink) while the digital audio source can be located at a greater distance (up to 5 meter USB interlink).
Lowest jitter can be obtained when using multi-stranded real glass fiber interlinks. These offer less problems with reflections and related jitter and offer higher light output:
Lifatec Glass Toslink Cables
But we also developed the Mosaic VC (Toslink & analogue input selector and relay volume control) that has a built-in SPDIF reclocker (crystal-based PLL).
It outputs a low jitter SPDIF signal regardless of the jitter on the 6 Toslink inputs. One can then use a short 0.5 ... 1 meter Toslink interlink between reclocked SPDIF output of the Mosaic VC and connect any Toslink source with up to 10 meter Toslink cable length.
So here are some options for obtaining low jitter at the Mosaic T DAC Toslink input:
Soundcard -> 0.5 … 1 meter Toslink interlink -> Mosaic DAC.
Soundcard -> Toslink interlink (up to 10 meters) -> Mosaic VC -> 0.5 … 1 meter Toslink interlink -> Mosaic DAC.
Computer -> USB (up to 5 meters) -> XTOS -> 0.5 … 1 meter Toslink interlink -> Mosaic DAC.
Computer -> USB (up to 5 meters) -> XTOS -> Toslink interlink (up to 10 meters) -> Mosaic VC -> 0.5 ... 1 meter Toslink interlink -> Mosaic DAC.
I assume that the sound card has very low jitter output similar to the XTOS.
These configurations should offer lowest jitter at the Mosaic T DAC optical receiver output, if it’s audible is another matter as the Mosaic T DAC is designed to attenuate source jitter to inaudible levels.
Longer Toslink interlinks will introduce more jitter as can be seen in my previous post. So for lowest jitter at the optical receiver in the Mosaic T DAC you would require a 0.5 ... 1 meter Toslink interlink.
Then it is more practical to use the XTOS as it can be placed relatively close to the Mosaic T DAC (0.5 ... 1 meter Toslink interlink) while the digital audio source can be located at a greater distance (up to 5 meter USB interlink).
Lowest jitter can be obtained when using multi-stranded real glass fiber interlinks. These offer less problems with reflections and related jitter and offer higher light output:
Lifatec Glass Toslink Cables
But we also developed the Mosaic VC (Toslink & analogue input selector and relay volume control) that has a built-in SPDIF reclocker (crystal-based PLL).
It outputs a low jitter SPDIF signal regardless of the jitter on the 6 Toslink inputs. One can then use a short 0.5 ... 1 meter Toslink interlink between reclocked SPDIF output of the Mosaic VC and connect any Toslink source with up to 10 meter Toslink cable length.
So here are some options for obtaining low jitter at the Mosaic T DAC Toslink input:
Soundcard -> 0.5 … 1 meter Toslink interlink -> Mosaic DAC.
Soundcard -> Toslink interlink (up to 10 meters) -> Mosaic VC -> 0.5 … 1 meter Toslink interlink -> Mosaic DAC.
Computer -> USB (up to 5 meters) -> XTOS -> 0.5 … 1 meter Toslink interlink -> Mosaic DAC.
Computer -> USB (up to 5 meters) -> XTOS -> Toslink interlink (up to 10 meters) -> Mosaic VC -> 0.5 ... 1 meter Toslink interlink -> Mosaic DAC.
I assume that the sound card has very low jitter output similar to the XTOS.
These configurations should offer lowest jitter at the Mosaic T DAC optical receiver output, if it’s audible is another matter as the Mosaic T DAC is designed to attenuate source jitter to inaudible levels.
Hi John,
Referring the a.m. please advise foll -
Is it OK to use a stereo jack - two channels + earth ?
Where is the border line for "thinner" - I have litz wires of 0.1 mm - shall I try five of them for a channel or ??
Thanks and regards,
Ignat
Thanks ! I was not brave enough to admit it but I use that kind of connections for years not just for the speaker cables but wherever possible /OK not very convenient when you decide to change something/
Regards,
Dear John,
Going to the extreme, could a USB (or other) to Toslink converter with minimal distance between optical emiter and receiver be built inside the DAC?
I imagine this would minimize jitter, provided optical transmission is optimal, and still offer galvanic insulation.
Hi. Of course the best but impractical solution is soldering cables everywhere.
I do the following mod on speakers binding posts, which is very easy on speakers wood enclosures as you don't have to pass through the binding post itself. It looks ugly but the benefit soundwise is significant.
Pictures from the inside and the outside of the case.
Cheers,
M.
Attachments
Hi!
I just built Rogic's dac AYA II, but with different amp stage, so no op-amps and I have TDA1541 chip (non A), R1 grade.
I read and also EC told me that with non-A chip I don't need oscilator cap on 16/17 and DEM clock uprade wont work for me, because this cap is already built in. But in my case it didn't work without this cap. Actually it worked, but with a lot of noise, not hum, there was "shshshshs" etc. So when I asked my friend to see what oscilloscope says, we saw that sine wave was somehow broken, there were small gaps... We checked everything and the only thing left was that capacitor, so when I add it, noise dissapeared and sine wave was normal...
I just want to know if someone had similar situation and if maybe fDEM mod would also work for me? Maybe those "R1" grade chips are different or maybe I have a fake one, but I doubt it, because it's from Pedja directly.
Thanks
I just built Rogic's dac AYA II, but with different amp stage, so no op-amps and I have TDA1541 chip (non A), R1 grade.
I read and also EC told me that with non-A chip I don't need oscilator cap on 16/17 and DEM clock uprade wont work for me, because this cap is already built in. But in my case it didn't work without this cap. Actually it worked, but with a lot of noise, not hum, there was "shshshshs" etc. So when I asked my friend to see what oscilloscope says, we saw that sine wave was somehow broken, there were small gaps... We checked everything and the only thing left was that capacitor, so when I add it, noise dissapeared and sine wave was normal...
I just want to know if someone had similar situation and if maybe fDEM mod would also work for me? Maybe those "R1" grade chips are different or maybe I have a fake one, but I doubt it, because it's from Pedja directly.
Thanks
The R1 is TDA1541A graded. so its need the cap.
"
What grades does the TDA1541A have?The TDA1541A has 4 grades: standard, The R1, the S1 single crown and the S2 double (or gold) crown.
What does the grades mean?The (standard) TDA1541A is specified at THD+N of 0.8% (-42 dB). The TDA1541A S1 and TDA1541A S2 grades are specified at THD+N of 0.45% (-47 dB) at -60 dBFS. In addition, S2 is specified for THD+N of 0.0014 % (-97 dB) at full level, as opposed to 0.0018% claimed for non S2 grade. The S versions are guaranteed by Philips for this performance, but that does not mean that non S grades can not match the same performance level. Apart from S grades there is also R1 grade. However Philips documentation is a little confusing about it – sometimes it is slightly better specified than unmarked TDA1541A, sometimes it is inferior."Philips TDA1541A d/a converter - DutchAudioClassics.nl
Maybe It will be truer to say P. Rogic is only providing TDA1541A from the end of the 90s' made in Taiwan, and only with the populated AYA II 2014 & 2014 DS edition made by Audial, and of course the flag ship Model S.
They are said to be the best one near the double crown specification as T. Loesch already testimonied; although never checked myself. No fake stuffs at Audial ! . What I can confirm to have several TDA1541A non-A all génuine (desoldered from old CD player) and a S1 as well from few days : there are important difference in sound if the layout and design is good... I can hear the difference easily on my own AYA II 2014.
Maybe you speak about the little dozen of R1 P. Rogic gave free at the asking of this personn who have too much of it and didn't want to sell them for money ? He gave one per personn at the condition you had no TDA and the first on the list whom asked ! (Read the Audial blog).
Anyway, as said, if it works with the cap and not without, it's a non-A whatever the marking !
Sorry John for this off topic.
They are said to be the best one near the double crown specification as T. Loesch already testimonied; although never checked myself. No fake stuffs at Audial !
. What I can confirm to have several TDA1541A non-A all génuine (desoldered from old CD player) and a S1 as well from few days : there are important difference in sound if the layout and design is good... I can hear the difference easily on my own AYA II 2014.Maybe you speak about the little dozen of R1 P. Rogic gave free at the asking of this personn who have too much of it and didn't want to sell them for money ? He gave one per personn at the condition you had no TDA and the first on the list whom asked ! (Read the Audial blog).
Anyway, as said, if it works with the cap and not without, it's a non-A whatever the marking !
Sorry John for this off topic.
... yes you 're right, a A non A marked !So, no fake from Pedja imo: he is a serious guy ! And he is not making, designing DAC with TDA1541 non-A chip, you had the prove in the pudding yourself : it works only with the cap
If doubt drop a photograph of the chip, there is a thread about "is it a true TDA1541 chip", there is the date on it, sometimes the place : Taiwan, etc ! If you find one marked S2... keep it
Hi. Of course the best but impractical solution is soldering cables everywhere.
I do the following mod on speakers binding posts, which is very easy on speakers wood enclosures as you don't have to pass through the binding post itself. It looks ugly but the benefit soundwise is significant.
Pictures from the inside and the outside of the case.
Cheers,
M.
Hi, that is not right exactly /IMHO/ since you have a solder there - I prefer a mechanically pressed cables wherever possible.
Regards,
