Hi Warren, I haven't looked in on the thread for a while.
The Milled Stator Bowls are looking to be substantial as a structure and is a concept I have been toying with and suggesting with SP10 user Friends for quite some time.
I am also looking at the alternative idea of having a Stator Bowl form, CNC Patterned into the Permali Plinth/Chassis for the Kaneta Style SP10.
Do you have any thoughts on this as a method?
The requirement to get the best set up for the mounting of the Standard Bearing is a further consideration being pondered, I am thinking the Permali would need to have the Bearing Housing Shaft lined to protect, the P'mali from coming into prolonged contact with any lubricant used.
The Milled Stator Bowls are looking to be substantial as a structure and is a concept I have been toying with and suggesting with SP10 user Friends for quite some time.
I am also looking at the alternative idea of having a Stator Bowl form, CNC Patterned into the Permali Plinth/Chassis for the Kaneta Style SP10.
Do you have any thoughts on this as a method?
The requirement to get the best set up for the mounting of the Standard Bearing is a further consideration being pondered, I am thinking the Permali would need to have the Bearing Housing Shaft lined to protect, the P'mali from coming into prolonged contact with any lubricant used.
This model under
https://www.technics.com/uk/products/reference-class/turntables/sl-1000r.html
and
https://www.technics.com/de/produkte/reference-class/plattenspieler/sl-1000r.html
seems to be a successor of the SP-10 under
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details...ed-early-serial-600040-no-arm/images/1709139/
https://www.technics.com/uk/products/reference-class/turntables/sl-1000r.html
and
https://www.technics.com/de/produkte/reference-class/plattenspieler/sl-1000r.html
seems to be a successor of the SP-10 under
https://www.usaudiomart.com/details...ed-early-serial-600040-no-arm/images/1709139/
It has a crack on the back . I was planning to fill it with epoxy.
That one I can see without motor out . Also Grado laboratory arm on it with a Stanton cart. I like the look of Grado arm on a Thorens clunker but not on a black plinth Thechnics . I have a decent looking black arm but it's 12" ( Audio Origami PU7)
That one I can see without motor out . Also Grado laboratory arm on it with a Stanton cart. I like the look of Grado arm on a Thorens clunker but not on a black plinth Thechnics . I have a decent looking black arm but it's 12" ( Audio Origami PU7)
If there's a crack on the back there's likely a crack under the armboard too, and they're probably not cracks but broken clear through. 12" arm may not fit the plinth and the CW is likely to interfere with the cover.
MK2A is the same chipset as the MK3, just simplified and a bit less robust. If you have it worked on don't let them touch the "Offset" VR unless they really know what they're doing, which means MK2A or MK3 specific experience.
MK2A is the same chipset as the MK3, just simplified and a bit less robust. If you have it worked on don't let them touch the "Offset" VR unless they really know what they're doing, which means MK2A or MK3 specific experience.
Take the platter off, turn the plinth upside down and look at the plinth mounting areas for both deck and arm board. These are often badly damaged and repairs are not easy.
Despite looking quite nice these plinths are but moderately good. The arm I do not know - ditto cartridge. However some 9" arms are troublesome to set upon the normal armboard - a 12"
arm is much easier,,,,what make is that arm?
Seems to me that unless you can get the deck for not much more than the value pf the basic deck and then make a plinth yourself I would leave it alone.....plenty of guidance on this thread
not only on mounting but also on the electronics and setting up.
EDIT: Those plinths are extremely brittle and using an adhesive to repair will make the original material even more susceptible to breaking again at the edge of the adhesive. Also take careful notice
of the warning above to leave the electronics well alone; any expert who you allow near those electronics must be properly checked out before doing anything.
Despite looking quite nice these plinths are but moderately good. The arm I do not know - ditto cartridge. However some 9" arms are troublesome to set upon the normal armboard - a 12"
arm is much easier,,,,what make is that arm?
Seems to me that unless you can get the deck for not much more than the value pf the basic deck and then make a plinth yourself I would leave it alone.....plenty of guidance on this thread
not only on mounting but also on the electronics and setting up.
EDIT: Those plinths are extremely brittle and using an adhesive to repair will make the original material even more susceptible to breaking again at the edge of the adhesive. Also take careful notice
of the warning above to leave the electronics well alone; any expert who you allow near those electronics must be properly checked out before doing anything.
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Yes , it appears they are not cracks but broken clear through. Im going to re-cap myself and I won't touch any of the adjustments. Learned a hard way wisdom. I have lenco GL-75 in making for last 15 years in Garage . First thing I did in my infinite wisdom from 15 years ago was to cut the corner of Lencos plinth to accommodate a tonearm plate, next I built humongous multiple layers b.birch plinth and that's it. I've been tripping over bits trying not to feel guilty.
Grado arm would fit right in. I'm buying SP 10 for looks mainly and ease of use. I have 3 belt tables not matching my now gold / black phase
plus the SP-10 package is $800. I'm broke like a mofo at the moment but it's just too good of an offer to pass.
I'm laughing at myself for my love of vinyl which never loved me back no matter how much money I spent and went broke for it.
This Technics will be one of 3 last tables I will buy. The second will be an old LP12 , the only table I really had affection for but sold it to explore " options " and LP12 were cheap and plentiful back then. And last will be Denon "space ship " DD just for the look of it.
Grado arm would fit right in. I'm buying SP 10 for looks mainly and ease of use. I have 3 belt tables not matching my now gold / black phase
plus the SP-10 package is $800. I'm broke like a mofo at the moment but it's just too good of an offer to pass. I'm laughing at myself for my love of vinyl which never loved me back no matter how much money I spent and went broke for it.
This Technics will be one of 3 last tables I will buy. The second will be an old LP12 , the only table I really had affection for but sold it to explore " options " and LP12 were cheap and plentiful back then. And last will be Denon "space ship " DD just for the look of it.
I had pristine SP25 on that plinth close to 20 years ago with matching DA-307 Arm. Didn't think much of it back then but I was looking for other things in life. I packed the table and sent it to interested party all the way to Norway.
Sp-10 will reside on Vibraplane. Not that it will do anything to aid the basic obsidian plinth characteristics but it will alleviate some problems with isolating the deck from environment.
http://www.audioorigami.co.uk/pu7/
That's the arm I mentioned 12" in black
That PU7 is a FAR FAR better arm! IF it was for sale here in the UK and working properly I would buy it from you.
DO NOT RECAP unless absolutely necessary - it will need for the pots to be properly adjusted after. Take heed of all these warnings above on that point...you will risk the sp-10 joining the other failure in your garage and being a $800+ poorer!
DO NOT RECAP unless absolutely necessary - it will need for the pots to be properly adjusted after. Take heed of all these warnings above on that point...you will risk the sp-10 joining the other failure in your garage and being a $800+ poorer!
OK , I'm not into Re-cap thing for the sake of a re-cap if the gear is working properly. I was only concerned with warnings of a chipset sourcing problem in a case of MKIIa model which would make the deck inoperable. So far in my (shallow I admit research) everybody is recommending a total recap to save headaches in the future. Why would change (one for one ) of electrolytic caps whose characteristics must have shifted over last 40 years require re adjustment of the settings? If the design is accommodating to a ageing of caps why wouldn't it accommodate a fresh caps?
Found your work description on A-gon post . Pretty time consuming service eh ..
"The work that JP did to both the motor unit and the controller:
1. Pre-refurbishment measurement to baseline the performance of the unit and to see if there are any underlying issues.
2. Cleaning of all PCBs to remove the factory conformal coating. At~40 years this coating tends to become hygroscopic which can cause stability issues.
3. Physical inspection of all solder joints under an inspection microscope. Many of the joints will exhibit annular deformities which can lead to joint fractures down the road. These must be cleared of the factory solder and re-soldered. There will also be poor joints that need the same treatment. You can’t just reflow as the solder alloys aren’t the same which can also cause joint failure down the road.
4. Electrolytic cap replacement and rectifier diode replacement.
5. Disassembly and cleaning of the motor. Bearing inspection and service work. Proper Anderol 465 oil is used for reassembly. Motor is then checked for any areas of bearing drag.
6. The brake solenoids typically needs cleaned, and band tension is adjusted.
7. Stop/start and speed selection switches in the motor chassis are measured for contact resistance. Too high of resistance is indicative of a switch failure in the future. In the control unit I typically replace all the tactile switches, and the start/stop switch if needed.
8. Relocation of the brake regulator transistor to the heatsink to prevent overheating of the board (factory design flaw).
9. MN6042 replacement installation.
10. PSU ripple check at all critical stages (10).
11. Course calibration is performed and post-refurb baseline measurements for FG spectrum, motor drive phases, etc. are taken.
12. After 48-hour run-in final calibrations and verification measurements are performed.
The basic service returns the unit to factory or better specifications (assuming no permanent bearing damage has occurred). This service is quite exhaustive and very different from the typical work I see of just swapping some caps out, checking some voltages, and adjusting phase tracking.
The advanced service adds on top of the basic service:
1. Replace all polyester capacitors.
2. Replace drive circuit metal oxide resistors.
3. Replace all voltage regulator ICs and update circuits.
4. Replacement of certain diodes."
For electrolytics it won't much if at all. For VS and RS adjustment all you need is a DMM. Sync position requires a scope, but isn't critical and won't change enough to worry about. Offset isn't affected by changing caps.
Thanks JP! Good to know.
I'm Ok with a unit which won't be operating at 110% , mere 80-90% is good enough for a shallow pockets I have at the moment.
And , to be honest the most memorable vinyl experience of my life was my GF's father basement setup with Garrard changer and Sure V15 type of the cart. I fired up that dormant for last 25 years system (JBL boxes and Heathkit receiver ) some 23 years ago and was floored by the sound. At that time I already had Bow Technologies ZZ1 amp Sony 7 CD and Cabasse Iroise speakers so it's not like I was coming from a clock radio experience.
I saw on the website that the replacement chip for the one which is a cause of main concern is not available . Do you still manufacture it ?
I'm Ok with a unit which won't be operating at 110% , mere 80-90% is good enough for a shallow pockets I have at the moment.
And , to be honest the most memorable vinyl experience of my life was my GF's father basement setup with Garrard changer and Sure V15 type of the cart. I fired up that dormant for last 25 years system (JBL boxes and Heathkit receiver ) some 23 years ago and was floored by the sound. At that time I already had Bow Technologies ZZ1 amp Sony 7 CD and Cabasse Iroise speakers so it's not like I was coming from a clock radio experience.
I saw on the website that the replacement chip for the one which is a cause of main concern is not available . Do you still manufacture it ?
the obsidian base must be carefully disassembled all to check how many cracks there are and repair them; not a very nice and precise job if you want to repair with all the accessories and the lower wooden shelf screwed to the top.
"the obsidian base must be carefully disassembled all to check how many cracks there are and repair them; not a very nice and precise job if you want to repair with all the accessories and the lower wooden shelf screwed to the top"
Yeah , maybe... A case could be made that cracks braking the uniformity of plinth are actually beneficial for sound and fixing them makes only sense when sale is considered to "accountant type of people " which are the only type of people buying expensive hifi these days
I'm not overly concerned by them since they are out of sight.
Yeah , maybe... A case could be made that cracks braking the uniformity of plinth are actually beneficial for sound and fixing them makes only sense when sale is considered to "accountant type of people " which are the only type of people buying expensive hifi these days
I'm not overly concerned by them since they are out of sight.