OK, didn't see those. But I expect most any decent electrolytic these days (Panasonic FR/FC...) would have at least as low an ESR as in the late 70s and 80s when these turntables were designed.
Ordered Panny FC for all values except 1uF/50V
that value (FC or FM) is no longer produced by Panasonic, you can find them from other brands for example Nichicon (for audio) always polarized or you use polypropylene like the Wima Mks which are just as good... or better
don't trust those indications, in the past I have found inconsistencies depending on the versions intended for export; rather check which capacitors are applied to your boards and replace capacitors of the same capacity, at most you can replace them with a higher voltage but the capacity must remain unchanged... and ask if you have any doubts.
I used few WIMA MKS2(red) and Panasonic ECQ(brown) polyester caps left over from my last project. It worked out very well since both caps had pin spacing 5mm. Other larger caps were electrolytics.
I always consider it a good idea to use polyester or polypropylene capacitors than to use electrolytic capacitors as they are more performing and have better characteristics; unfortunately it is not always possible to use them because the dimensions beyond a certain capacity become important and it is not always possible to use them due to the limited space; therefore electrolytics due to their small size and high capacity become again indispensable.
Polyester have definite levels of distortion, can be close to electrolytic in fact, PP are very low distortion. For an AC-coupling (aka DC-blocking) cap, electrolytics are usually fine if the value is high enough that the signal voltage across them is negligable.
Here's the latest iteration of SP10. Still need to machine the billet rotor housing.
Hi all,
I measured the voltages of the SH10E power supply
32.5V is ok
5V is ok
148V not 140V
could there be problems with the stroboscope neon?
I measured the voltages of the SH10E power supply
32.5V is ok
5V is ok
148V not 140V
could there be problems with the stroboscope neon?
SH-10B7 obsidian plinth question:
Looking at this ad for an SP-10R with EPA-100mk2 and SH-10B7 plinth.
https://j-corder.com/shop/ols/products/technics-sp-10r-wobsidian-plinth--epa-100-mk2-boron-tonearm
Seems like a reasonable deal for the new (albeit unboxed) SP-10R and the EPA-100mk2 (claimed to be in perfect condition) alone, but my wife is taken with the obsidian plinth. Dragon glass! I think she's preparing for the White Walkers. I think this plinth is actually an SH-10B5, though the add says SH-10B7, and my question is: does anyone know if this plinth is real obsidian? I've searched and searched and mostly found contradictory information.
Looking at this ad for an SP-10R with EPA-100mk2 and SH-10B7 plinth.
https://j-corder.com/shop/ols/products/technics-sp-10r-wobsidian-plinth--epa-100-mk2-boron-tonearm
Seems like a reasonable deal for the new (albeit unboxed) SP-10R and the EPA-100mk2 (claimed to be in perfect condition) alone, but my wife is taken with the obsidian plinth. Dragon glass! I think she's preparing for the White Walkers. I think this plinth is actually an SH-10B5, though the add says SH-10B7, and my question is: does anyone know if this plinth is real obsidian? I've searched and searched and mostly found contradictory information.
Having owned two of those plinths [and also one of the wood + obsidian] I have to advise against them
as they are ultra fragile.
As for the arm, again I am unimpressed as and ex owner of two. HOWEVER I cannot knock them too
much as I was using very low compliance cartridges. Others who use more modern cartridges seem to
be happy with them.
as they are ultra fragile.
As for the arm, again I am unimpressed as and ex owner of two. HOWEVER I cannot knock them too
much as I was using very low compliance cartridges. Others who use more modern cartridges seem to
be happy with them.
Nope, I think they're a black glass/resin composite, but my B+/A- grade SH-10B3 does rather LOOK like obsidian.
I have an EPA-100 mk1 and it's a good arm especially with a few modifications. @brianco is correct the bearings are fragile and damage easily. Although the balls can be replaced with SI3N4. My modified EPA-100 performs equally with an SME-IV, I know this as I've had both on my SP10.
I had an SL1000mk2 herewith the Obsidian plinth and IMO is not worth it. You would be far better off with a Permalli/Panzerholtz plinth. At $13,000 I think you can do much better with an SP10mk2 and a Panzer plinth and SME-IV which will most likely cost you around 1/2 of that.
@Bon has both SP10R and mk2 if he sees this he can give you his opinion.
I had an SL1000mk2 herewith the Obsidian plinth and IMO is not worth it. You would be far better off with a Permalli/Panzerholtz plinth. At $13,000 I think you can do much better with an SP10mk2 and a Panzer plinth and SME-IV which will most likely cost you around 1/2 of that.
@Bon has both SP10R and mk2 if he sees this he can give you his opinion.