2 layers of 30mm Permalli sandwiched between 3mm aluminium. Arm boards bolt directly to the top of the plinth you can seen the bolt on the right front. Arm boards will be 60x20mm 6061 T6 aluminium. The arm board in the photo is off my inverted bearing SP10 and is 70x12mm.
The Micro Seiki uses 4 feet which I'm not a fan of which is why I didn't use the Micro arm mount arrangement.
This TT is made from Permalli offcuts from another 3 TT I'm building
The Micro Seiki uses 4 feet which I'm not a fan of which is why I didn't use the Micro arm mount arrangement.
This TT is made from Permalli offcuts from another 3 TT I'm building
Warren, wow are you getting fast at doing plinths. Couple of questions.
1. Is that an on/off button in the left front corner? Does it turn on the power regulator? Using the old chassis or has the electronics been reboxed?
2. Do you glue the Permalli together and then cut and mill the edges?
3. is the motor mounted to a flange like before? How thick is the flange?
Thanks,
Don
1. Is that an on/off button in the left front corner? Does it turn on the power regulator? Using the old chassis or has the electronics been reboxed?
2. Do you glue the Permalli together and then cut and mill the edges?
3. is the motor mounted to a flange like before? How thick is the flange?
Thanks,
Don
Hi Don,
1 It's a remote start/stop switch. The electronics in this version are still housed in the OEM chassis. I do have another version in progress of being built where the electronics will be relocated in a custom enclosure.
2 The sheets were doweled together first then I machined the hole in the top 30mm sheet before gluing the sheets together with West System epoxy. The top AL sheet is then glued on and the plinth machined to size. The bottom AL sheet is screwed on to allow access to the wiring. Wiring runs in a machined recess in the bottom Permalli sheet so is completely hidden.
3 The motor is mounted directly to the Permalli, no flange
OK here is teaser - these are custom made motor housings for SP10's I'm building. The rotor housing has been digitized and will be machined shortly.
1 It's a remote start/stop switch. The electronics in this version are still housed in the OEM chassis. I do have another version in progress of being built where the electronics will be relocated in a custom enclosure.
2 The sheets were doweled together first then I machined the hole in the top 30mm sheet before gluing the sheets together with West System epoxy. The top AL sheet is then glued on and the plinth machined to size. The bottom AL sheet is screwed on to allow access to the wiring. Wiring runs in a machined recess in the bottom Permalli sheet so is completely hidden.
3 The motor is mounted directly to the Permalli, no flange
OK here is teaser - these are custom made motor housings for SP10's I'm building. The rotor housing has been digitized and will be machined shortly.
Warren, you are the endless Mark 2 innovator.
Those appear to all be the bottom piece. Are you going to do the top piece also?
Are they for the regular MK2? Inverted bearing MK2?
You are doing soo much stuff I am having trouble keeping up with you.
And, thanks for the plinth explanation.
R,
Don
Those appear to all be the bottom piece. Are you going to do the top piece also?
Are they for the regular MK2? Inverted bearing MK2?
You are doing soo much stuff I am having trouble keeping up with you.
And, thanks for the plinth explanation.
R,
Don
@donhughes111 I'm retired and need to keep my brain working.
They are the bottom stator housing, The top rotor housing has been digitized and will be machined shortly. The OEM motor housing is cast and not overly rigid. These housings are extremely rigid and are designed to take an inverted bearing.
I looked at alternative motors to build my own DD TT but motors of this quality are extremely expensive the DD rotor/stator VPI use is $4kUSD then the motor needs to be designed around these. The SP10mk2 motor is almost as good as it gets for a DD TT IMO.
I used 20mm to increase rigidity, my arm boards were made with scrap 70x12mm I had.
I also have an SP10mk2 motor spinning using FOC driven by an STM32 microprocessor in openloop. Next is to build an FG amplifier using the mk2A circuit, this will be used for rotor position sensing then the loop can be closed and the PID tuned.
They are the bottom stator housing, The top rotor housing has been digitized and will be machined shortly. The OEM motor housing is cast and not overly rigid. These housings are extremely rigid and are designed to take an inverted bearing.
I looked at alternative motors to build my own DD TT but motors of this quality are extremely expensive the DD rotor/stator VPI use is $4kUSD then the motor needs to be designed around these. The SP10mk2 motor is almost as good as it gets for a DD TT IMO.
I used 20mm to increase rigidity, my arm boards were made with scrap 70x12mm I had.
I also have an SP10mk2 motor spinning using FOC driven by an STM32 microprocessor in openloop. Next is to build an FG amplifier using the mk2A circuit, this will be used for rotor position sensing then the loop can be closed and the PID tuned.
Is this the same motor? It is a 3phase BLDC, right? I am a bit confused on why 5 wires for one of the wiring plugs (I would expect 3) Any idea what each wire is? Both for the motor driver as well as the built in sensors (hall sensors?)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145340043054
https://www.ebay.com/itm/145340043054
Re Post 2637
An excellent job Warrjon.
[Does the owner intend to change the EPA arm for a better performer?
My experience has been that these are - at best - not the greatest sonically
and other owners have had really bad experience with the 'jewelled' bearings.
I will be going the Schick clone route...just need some very low inertia startup bearings...any ideas?]
An excellent job Warrjon.
[Does the owner intend to change the EPA arm for a better performer?
My experience has been that these are - at best - not the greatest sonically
and other owners have had really bad experience with the 'jewelled' bearings.
I will be going the Schick clone route...just need some very low inertia startup bearings...any ideas?]
That looks like it might be an SP10mk1 motor. There are 3 phases for the stator Red Yellow and Blue and the rest of the wires will be senors. I'm not familiar with the mk1 I have never seen one.
The EPA-100 is mine I installed to test the TT.
I would disagree about the sonic quality of the EPA-100 especially my modified one. If you look at my EPA-100 it has a custom CW and mounting as well as viscous damping, this elevates the arm significantly. I recently setup an SP10 with an SME 309 and Shelter 901mk2 and my SP10 with EPA-100 and EPC-205 sounded better, way more detail and depth in the music.
I built this arm and used pin pivots, they are carbide scribe points in radiused and polished M3 grubscrews. Very low breakaway torque. Sensitivity of this arm is less than 4mg
I would disagree about the sonic quality of the EPA-100 especially my modified one. If you look at my EPA-100 it has a custom CW and mounting as well as viscous damping, this elevates the arm significantly. I recently setup an SP10 with an SME 309 and Shelter 901mk2 and my SP10 with EPA-100 and EPC-205 sounded better, way more detail and depth in the music.
I built this arm and used pin pivots, they are carbide scribe points in radiused and polished M3 grubscrews. Very low breakaway torque. Sensitivity of this arm is less than 4mg
That is quite clearly a good arm! I have a Zeta in need of bearing rebuild...I will see how your bearing solution can be used...Thanks.
[Regarding the EPA - unmodified - I still do not think it a good arm. To be fair it was probably designed for use with Technics own cartridges which limits its
potential for general use]
at all, it has a fairly wide range of compatibility with different heads, even from different brands.
The same model as I owned 6L6; I had both normal and the higher mass straight arm tubes.
At the same time I had FR-64S with B60 elevation base and an early 9" Breuer. I lent the FR
to a friend who used the pillar to build an arm with a silicon carbide arm-tube and that was the last I saw of it
though I still have the elevation base and heavy counterweights. As he has now died that is the end of that
arm! I sold the Brueur years ago.
[The Breuer was great with med compliance MCs (naked D103)and the FR with med and low compliance.
naked SPUs and the pre 1980 Kondo Io which I still have (In a box since a rebuild by Kondo before he died)
I suppose that comparisons are not really fair as it would be a case of apples v. oranges]
When I get to replinthing my SP-10 motor I will chime in again.
At the same time I had FR-64S with B60 elevation base and an early 9" Breuer. I lent the FR
to a friend who used the pillar to build an arm with a silicon carbide arm-tube and that was the last I saw of it
though I still have the elevation base and heavy counterweights. As he has now died that is the end of that
arm! I sold the Brueur years ago.
[The Breuer was great with med compliance MCs (naked D103)and the FR with med and low compliance.
naked SPUs and the pre 1980 Kondo Io which I still have (In a box since a rebuild by Kondo before he died)
I suppose that comparisons are not really fair as it would be a case of apples v. oranges]
When I get to replinthing my SP-10 motor I will chime in again.
In the arsenal are the aforementioned EPA-B500/-A250 /-A510H, Jelco 750H, Sumiko MMT, (a rebadged Jelco) Graham 2.0, Graham 2.2, and a modded RB250 I bought out of curiosity that I haven't mounted yet.
Ergonomically the Technics is far and wide the best, in terms of the normal use, cueing, VTA, resting the arm, etc... it make a very big difference in the overall impression when this kind of thing requires no thought. The swappable wand feature may seem like a gimmick, but it's almost magical in use.The macro ease of use the Grahams are incredible - mounting, alignment, cartridge alignment takes just minutes because of the Graham tools. Sonically they are different, and yet both of high enough performance I'd be very hard pressed to choose between them, and be happy with either.
In the list of arms I'd like to try and am keeping half an eye out looking for a killer deal are the 12" Micro Seiki MA-505L, and Denon DA-308.
Ergonomically the Technics is far and wide the best, in terms of the normal use, cueing, VTA, resting the arm, etc... it make a very big difference in the overall impression when this kind of thing requires no thought. The swappable wand feature may seem like a gimmick, but it's almost magical in use.The macro ease of use the Grahams are incredible - mounting, alignment, cartridge alignment takes just minutes because of the Graham tools. Sonically they are different, and yet both of high enough performance I'd be very hard pressed to choose between them, and be happy with either.
In the list of arms I'd like to try and am keeping half an eye out looking for a killer deal are the 12" Micro Seiki MA-505L, and Denon DA-308.