normally you want more amplifier power than speaker power.
In my workfield (stage productions) its speaker power equals 50% of amplifier power.. this to make sure that peak power never clips...
I would never put a 100w speaker on a 100watt amp.. more like 60-70W
because yes the amp can deliver 100w but at what THD?
and a 70w speaker can handle 100w .. it gives you some headroom.
but maybe others think different on this🙂
Hello all, i'm new to the forum and i'm a noob to this, so i've got a few questions...
My car stereo head unit died, it's a simple pioneer head unit, powering a 4 channel amplifier with 2 tweeters and 4 speakers set up from factory.
I want to take all those out and use my phone for playing all audio through my car speakers.
Will this be possible with the Zoudio AIO4CH ??
Do i need more hardware to make it work ??
Is the volume sufficient/loud enough when powered by 12 to 14v from the car battery ?
Thanks in advance for answering my questions,
Greetz Ludo
My car stereo head unit died, it's a simple pioneer head unit, powering a 4 channel amplifier with 2 tweeters and 4 speakers set up from factory.
I want to take all those out and use my phone for playing all audio through my car speakers.
Will this be possible with the Zoudio AIO4CH ??
Do i need more hardware to make it work ??
Is the volume sufficient/loud enough when powered by 12 to 14v from the car battery ?
Thanks in advance for answering my questions,
Greetz Ludo
Last edited:
I have just used one of these modules for a stereo build for a friend who has recently left the UK for Europe.
I built some LS3/5a sized boxes for a 5inch paper SDS-135F25CP02-06 and a peerless 19mm horn tweeter which came from CPC Farnell here in the UK.
For the crossover I used a bass 4dB shelf, and 2.5KHz crossover on the woofer and 4 dBs of attenuation on the Tweeter and corresponding 2.5kHz Hi pass crossover and they are really enjoyable, with very good sound quality. being Small boxes they image quite well have reasonable depth and the sound is free of the box.
Blue tooth is good, and so is the direct feed by 3.5mm jack, so they will work well with a phone or computer or anything that has stereo line level out.
I am really happy with the class D amps sound quality and the DSP crossovers are an added bonus. Hopefully my friend will enjoy them when I get them shipped in a few days time.
Because this has worked so well i am already thinking about some other interesting options maybe a 10" paper cone crossed to a Mark Audio 4 incher. Just need to build some more cabs.
Used a meanwell 24V power brick which i had used for a build of an ACA.
I built some LS3/5a sized boxes for a 5inch paper SDS-135F25CP02-06 and a peerless 19mm horn tweeter which came from CPC Farnell here in the UK.
For the crossover I used a bass 4dB shelf, and 2.5KHz crossover on the woofer and 4 dBs of attenuation on the Tweeter and corresponding 2.5kHz Hi pass crossover and they are really enjoyable, with very good sound quality. being Small boxes they image quite well have reasonable depth and the sound is free of the box.
Blue tooth is good, and so is the direct feed by 3.5mm jack, so they will work well with a phone or computer or anything that has stereo line level out.
I am really happy with the class D amps sound quality and the DSP crossovers are an added bonus. Hopefully my friend will enjoy them when I get them shipped in a few days time.
Because this has worked so well i am already thinking about some other interesting options maybe a 10" paper cone crossed to a Mark Audio 4 incher. Just need to build some more cabs.
Used a meanwell 24V power brick which i had used for a build of an ACA.
Last edited:
I am looking forward to use this product. Both the software and hardware looks great:
Prosjekt hytteanlegg "off grid hifi" | Side 16 | Hifisentralen
I have some more Q:
How many V should i set the shutdown voltage on?
I use solar panel powered 12 Volt lead acid battery (i changed some plans) throug this converter:
Orion 12V-24V 10A non-isolated DC-DC converter - Victron Energy
How many volt should i adjust the output to? 25V?
Do i connect to «psu»?
Which type of switches do i need for TWS and EQ button? A simple on of switch?
Prosjekt hytteanlegg "off grid hifi" | Side 16 | Hifisentralen
I have some more Q:
How many V should i set the shutdown voltage on?
I use solar panel powered 12 Volt lead acid battery (i changed some plans) throug this converter:
Orion 12V-24V 10A non-isolated DC-DC converter - Victron Energy
How many volt should i adjust the output to? 25V?
Do i connect to «psu»?
Which type of switches do i need for TWS and EQ button? A simple on of switch?
Last edited:
I've used this on 25,5v with no problems. Limit is 26v or so.
Not sure about shutdown voltage, I'd probably just have a normal switch to cut power to the DC booster to prevent draining batteries (unlikely). Perhaps consider a mechanical delay switch to cut power after whatever time you set.
Never used the EQ/TWS inputs but perhaps a toggle switch for EQ, do you even need TWS?
Edit:
Seems both input triggers a toggle function, so just using trigger switches seems like the thing to do.
Not sure about shutdown voltage, I'd probably just have a normal switch to cut power to the DC booster to prevent draining batteries (unlikely). Perhaps consider a mechanical delay switch to cut power after whatever time you set.
Never used the EQ/TWS inputs but perhaps a toggle switch for EQ, do you even need TWS?
Edit:
Seems both input triggers a toggle function, so just using trigger switches seems like the thing to do.
Last edited:
Hey guys!
Is it a bad idea to want to make a DIY bluesound-ish rpi+this_amp speaker with a power supply inside? Something, that I can use on my kitchen. Do you have any projects examples?
Is it a bad idea to want to make a DIY bluesound-ish rpi+this_amp speaker with a power supply inside? Something, that I can use on my kitchen. Do you have any projects examples?
I have a apple tv/tv/zoudio setup. No issue with lipsync as long as the output is the tv. If I use appletv, there is an issue, and it cannot be fixed by the apple synchronizing feature.
@vcelkamaja
1) No, the maximum of the BT module is 48k, so the default will stay like this for now
2) Maybe, have not tried. But even if it might be possible, its a bit difficult to hook it up without soldering wires to the BT module.
I will have a look into including SPDIF in the future, there are more people using it than expected.
@illnastyimpreza
Something 30-300W works fine with the module.
You will have to make the 'efficiency vs deep bass' trade-off yourself based on your priorities 🙂
@V8Cowboy,
It works perfectly fine on 12V and Ive had multiple people use it in automotive environments.
On 12V it will delivery just as much if not more than normal car radio's put out.
@raymondj
Nice work!
@superlian
1) Depends on your power source. For lead acid a fine point is 11.5V.
2) 24V is fine
3) Yes, although both are fine. The CHG input is the same electrically,
its just allows for easy hookup of a charger at the terminals
instead of on the battery itself.
4) TWS is push (momentary). EQ can be either.
1) No, the maximum of the BT module is 48k, so the default will stay like this for now
2) Maybe, have not tried. But even if it might be possible, its a bit difficult to hook it up without soldering wires to the BT module.
I will have a look into including SPDIF in the future, there are more people using it than expected.
@illnastyimpreza
Something 30-300W works fine with the module.
You will have to make the 'efficiency vs deep bass' trade-off yourself based on your priorities 🙂
@V8Cowboy,
It works perfectly fine on 12V and Ive had multiple people use it in automotive environments.
On 12V it will delivery just as much if not more than normal car radio's put out.
@raymondj
Nice work!
@superlian
1) Depends on your power source. For lead acid a fine point is 11.5V.
2) 24V is fine
3) Yes, although both are fine. The CHG input is the same electrically,
its just allows for easy hookup of a charger at the terminals
instead of on the battery itself.
4) TWS is push (momentary). EQ can be either.
100.000
Just saw that the views passed 100k for this thread.
Thanks to everybody that has contributed!
To celebrate this fact, you can use the coupon code that is attached to this post for 25% off until coming sunday!
Its applied at checkout:
ZOUDIO electronics
Just saw that the views passed 100k for this thread.
Thanks to everybody that has contributed!
To celebrate this fact, you can use the coupon code that is attached to this post for 25% off until coming sunday!
Its applied at checkout:
ZOUDIO electronics
Attachments
How annoying; placed my order on the 19th before reading this post, so missed the discount code😡
Your order falls within the timeframe and you are on the forum, so do not tell anyone but I will apply the coupon in the back-end 🙂
You're a gentleman!
My order is #1516. As an alternative, instead of a discount, could you send a BMS345?
Ordered mine too... can't wait to get it.
Got so many speakers where I am too lazy to build a crossover for them ..
Oon
Got so many speakers where I am too lazy to build a crossover for them ..
Oon
Congrats Lutkeveld!
Mine has been a reliable performer for the past couple years is it? Always there when I want to listen; so easy "click-bloop-press play..."
I like the sound of the TAS stuff and the chips you're using especially. I have an older TAS chip in a RPi amp hat, unsure if it sounds a good as yours. It just might be the speakers giving your amp the advantage ;')
Someone from Korea I think was selling a board on ebay with the same TAS chip and a spot to plug on a RPi. They wanted a LOT more for it than what you're charging. An idea with merit however - if it works as good as your design.
Mine has been a reliable performer for the past couple years is it? Always there when I want to listen; so easy "click-bloop-press play..."
I like the sound of the TAS stuff and the chips you're using especially. I have an older TAS chip in a RPi amp hat, unsure if it sounds a good as yours. It just might be the speakers giving your amp the advantage ;')
Someone from Korea I think was selling a board on ebay with the same TAS chip and a spot to plug on a RPi. They wanted a LOT more for it than what you're charging. An idea with merit however - if it works as good as your design.
"Enough" 😀
In all seriousness I would expect around 25 completely clean watts per channel. If you look at the spec sheet the numbers are around 30w at 1%THD and 38w at 10%THD.
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/t...https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ti.com%2Fproduct%2FTAS5825M
I will try to make a proof of concept linkwitz lxmini with existing hardware, and this amplifier looks like a perfect match! Has anyone else had this thought?
