Thanks man
sometimes over spans of time I do well and then after an interview with some moron I get annoyed and frustrated.
like the type that put you on hold for 9.5 min for a 30 min interview and then ask you
“ so tell me about your career?”
dude I’ve been working for over 35 years. Where do I start?
sorry venting.
i declined that interview safe to say.
sometimes over spans of time I do well and then after an interview with some moron I get annoyed and frustrated.
like the type that put you on hold for 9.5 min for a 30 min interview and then ask you
“ so tell me about your career?”
dude I’ve been working for over 35 years. Where do I start?
sorry venting.
i declined that interview safe to say.
P.S. Make sure they are audio grade. 😉
hahaha. Yeah I’ll tell the Guy over at the hardware store. Until he throws me out. Lol
Ok so I did the experiment tonight.
it’s the caps that make the difference.
i soldered the alligator clips on to the electrolytics and the polys.
so It only takes me 5 min to switch out. Open the woofer, un clip the electrolytic and clip on the poly. Simply. and vise versa
the e
electrolytics sound harsher. And yes brighter. But they do have more growl.
but the harshness is apparent when switching to the poly. The poly is quieter?
yeah the cap material makes a difference no doubt. Very clear.
the electrolytics measured 18.4uf and 18.2uf. The poly measured 18.2uf and 18uf.
very cool experiment.
the poly also give more balance between the left and right speaker. If that makes sense
it’s the caps that make the difference.
i soldered the alligator clips on to the electrolytics and the polys.
so It only takes me 5 min to switch out. Open the woofer, un clip the electrolytic and clip on the poly. Simply. and vise versa
the e
electrolytics sound harsher. And yes brighter. But they do have more growl.
but the harshness is apparent when switching to the poly. The poly is quieter?
yeah the cap material makes a difference no doubt. Very clear.
the electrolytics measured 18.4uf and 18.2uf. The poly measured 18.2uf and 18uf.
very cool experiment.
the poly also give more balance between the left and right speaker. If that makes sense
Yes. You don't need anything fancy. They are rather cheap ready made on Amazon, eBay and places like that. Or you can buy or recover a simple piezo disc.
What you do need is a high impedance preamp. If you don't have that, the bass response rolls off badly. And you mostly want to look at the bass and mids. 😉
Pano,
I got the piezo today and it didn’t work.
I’ll take some screen shots in awhile to show you what’s going on if you can help me
ελληνας είσαι ;
Read this carefully and, since it's generally to be preferred, switch over to the measurement with power amp. Read section 2.1.2 in the LIMP tutorial of ARTA. It tells you how to build a safe way to measure with an amp by using a voltage divider. While you're there, read this manual too. It tells you about the ins and outs of measuring caps and coils in ARTA (you could guess, I prefer ARTA and installed Parallels on my Macbook). All in all you got your hands on a very good LCR meter for audio frequencies like this. What audio interface do you use right now?I have REW as I showed in my measurements.
but I need someone to tell me in 5 year old language.
take the output of the sound card and out one wire here , then put a wire there etc
i have a focusrite Scarlett 2i4.
after tonight’s experiment though. Capacitors sound different
thanks mark. Super appreciate it !
after tonight’s experiment though. Capacitors sound different
thanks mark. Super appreciate it !
Read this carefully and, since it's generally to be preferred, switch over to the measurement with power amp. Read section 2.1.2 in the LIMP tutorial of ARTA. It tells you how to build a safe way to measure with an amp by using a voltage divider. While you're there, read this manual too. It tells you about the ins and outs of measuring caps and coils in ARTA (you could guess, I prefer ARTA and installed Parallels on my Macbook). All in all you got your hands on a very good LCR meter for audio frequencies like this. What audio interface do you use right now?
ugh, dude I did. Lol
couldn’t figure it out.
ha. Sorry
That is because you probably need some kind of power supply to the device. And that probably isn't +48V on tip and ring or 2 and 3.But it isn’t working for the piezo. I don’t know why
The piezo contact mics need no power, they generate their own. You should plug it into the 1/4" input of the Scarlett and set it to "Instrument" That should give you plenty of volume.
What other mics do you have?
What other mics do you have?
Input impedance of your Scarlett is 1M5 Ohm so that should do (instrument setting). Don’t know if sensitivity is enough for measuring panel resonances, but you’ll find out soon enough. Here is some good reading on the stuff.
I've had no problem at all getting a good strong signal on mine, even with a 500 kilo ohm input. Needs a little bass EQ, tho.
Speakers, dishwashers, air conditioners and so on. There is a local bridge that I need to record. 🙂
Speakers, dishwashers, air conditioners and so on. There is a local bridge that I need to record. 🙂
I’ll post screen shots or even make a small video to show what is going wrong with my attempt to capture resonances.
video is prob the best bet.
words and visuals are the best for explaining something.
why we go around in circles here, because all we have is simple text
video is prob the best bet.
words and visuals are the best for explaining something.
why we go around in circles here, because all we have is simple text
Hi,
So how is the sound with the corrected lythic value ? 18 uF ? 17 ? 16 ? what pleased you the most ?
Did you try with the former resistor before swaping for the Mundorf Supreme M resist ? Or did you check both at the same time the cap add and the resistor add ?
When you tweak or refurbish a filter it is better to check after a standalone part swap or you do nor know from where it comes.
The harsh & brigth (which is not the same) can involve serveral frequency bands. Note some pointed out this resistor needs several hours of burning in. Anyway it is clearer and bring more ligthness, also resolution. the swap is easy with the crocos !
So how is the sound with the corrected lythic value ? 18 uF ? 17 ? 16 ? what pleased you the most ?
Did you try with the former resistor before swaping for the Mundorf Supreme M resist ? Or did you check both at the same time the cap add and the resistor add ?
When you tweak or refurbish a filter it is better to check after a standalone part swap or you do nor know from where it comes.
The harsh & brigth (which is not the same) can involve serveral frequency bands. Note some pointed out this resistor needs several hours of burning in. Anyway it is clearer and bring more ligthness, also resolution. the swap is easy with the crocos !
No the electrolytic was harsh. Not the poly Cap.
btw. The poly cap is a Solen jumped with a clarity cap in parallel to reach the value of 18uf. ( Solen 16uf , clarity cap 2uf)
the poly caps sound better. Smoother and maybe even quieter. If that is possible.
Yeah the alligator clips is something I used to do when modding my tube guitar amps to make comparisons of caps and values in certain areas of the circuit.
quick and clean.
btw. The poly cap is a Solen jumped with a clarity cap in parallel to reach the value of 18uf. ( Solen 16uf , clarity cap 2uf)
the poly caps sound better. Smoother and maybe even quieter. If that is possible.
Yeah the alligator clips is something I used to do when modding my tube guitar amps to make comparisons of caps and values in certain areas of the circuit.
quick and clean.
Do no hesitate to fine tweak this uF value... maybe with the former resistor first to involve less sound change at once, then try the two resistors.
I actually plan to.
thanks man! Yeah it’s a good idea.
interestingly enough I also noticed that keeping component values tight between speakers matters as well.
that is, if the cap on your woofer in the left speaker is 18.5uf and the cap on the right speaker is 18.1uf. It will make the speakers a bit ‘off balance’.
why as well when I build my final external xo, i will get caps that are matched for both speakers in values. It’s worth paying more and requesting the seller to measure and match caps before buying them.
thanks man! Yeah it’s a good idea.
interestingly enough I also noticed that keeping component values tight between speakers matters as well.
that is, if the cap on your woofer in the left speaker is 18.5uf and the cap on the right speaker is 18.1uf. It will make the speakers a bit ‘off balance’.
why as well when I build my final external xo, i will get caps that are matched for both speakers in values. It’s worth paying more and requesting the seller to measure and match caps before buying them.
IIRC you measured 0.29 uF difference between the two R&L lythics. It is very tigth tolerance whatever the difference is comming from a factory setup or just sligthy difference that doesn't matter. Imho it is more that last difference. Up to you to increase or not precision and notice when your ears will not notice anymore at that cut-off. Imho it is important to solve that first has you have the luck to have mkp caps in the high pass filter (treble) that has already precise and stable capacitance value. Since the filter will be rigth with the values, you can tweak with more ease at iso values. Anyway before swapping more parts like tweeters, do not forget that the equilibrium is also comming from the devices before.
The most important is to have the rigth filter values.
The most important is to have the rigth filter values.
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