ha good point. Nope.
it just shows on there that they drop off at around 1.9khz. So i got confused.
but combining the drivers would be different.
thanks once again for teaching me that !
Yes. You don't need anything fancy. They are rather cheap ready made on Amazon, eBay and places like that. Or you can buy or recover a simple piezo disc.
What you do need is a high impedance preamp. If you don't have that, the bass response rolls off badly. And you mostly want to look at the bass and mids. 😉
Ok cool
and this piezo should work , correct?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092SHJMFT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
thanks so much
and this piezo should work , correct?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092SHJMFT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
thanks so much
Yes it would. I've been using these because of the price of 5 🙂
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZTBVKRD
You will need a 1/4 male to male cable as the mics have female 1/4" jacks for whatever reason.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZTBVKRD
You will need a 1/4 male to male cable as the mics have female 1/4" jacks for whatever reason.
I had a disaster on my hands when a pair of speakers I was recapping went backwards.
I then learned the hard way things can easily go wrong and sometimes irreversible.
It was a last chance option.
I tried the by pass caps and it worked.
The highs were clearer and more detailed.
So, is the verdict "snake oil" on by pass?
And is there any truth in "burn in" of Caps?
Important questions for not only my future projects, but also "tones" experiment.
I no longer know who to trust regarding how good products are out there.
It seems the only way to learn what's good is to go out and listen for yourself.
No wonder it took you 2 years to settle on the ProAcs.
Danny seems a genuine guy.
If I was in the States I'd grab his XLS Encore if only to get it out of my system.
Its touted performance is very appealing.
Shipping to my country and the weak AUD$ makes it all a gamble.
Good luck with your ProAcs.
Are you making temporary upgrades (don't solder) until you get it right?
Also, are you up with Inductor orientation to avoid interference?
cheers Cliff
hey man. Yeah I’m up to inductor orientation.
i got the clarity caps today 2uf and put them in parallel with the 16uf solens.
i did it about an hour ago
so far imaging is a bit better. But they aren’t as open or bright as the electrolytic that was there before.
maybe they need some burn in to open Up. Don’t know.
timbre was better with the electrolytic. It had more highs. More open. And seemed a bit faster but that might be the more crisp treble and openness .
these are thicker sounding and image a touch better.
Attachments
A number of sources talk about 100 hours or more burn in.
Others say burn in is in the same camp as bypass.
Don't know who to believe, but it's worth exploring (burn in).
You said you'll be doing external XO's.
Does this mean your crossovers will be separate, and outside of the speaker enclosures?
Others say burn in is in the same camp as bypass.
Don't know who to believe, but it's worth exploring (burn in).
You said you'll be doing external XO's.
Does this mean your crossovers will be separate, and outside of the speaker enclosures?
Yes. Outside the speaker enclosure.
will make it on a nice piece of wood.
don’t know about burn in for audio.
i know when I was modding my guitar tube amps, there was a bit of burn in. But nothing spectacular for the coupling caps.
i just put them in about an hour ago. So they are pretty fresh.
ill jsut listen over the next few days and see.
god I really don’t want this to sound pompous. But as a musician of over 35 years I trust my ears more than anything. Measurements are good as well as a supplement. Or ears supplementing measurements .
but I know what instruments sound like after playing them for so long.
so I’ll see what happens. This is part of the fun and exploration. If I like the electrolytic more than so be it. Doesn’t matter.
cheers man
will make it on a nice piece of wood.
don’t know about burn in for audio.
i know when I was modding my guitar tube amps, there was a bit of burn in. But nothing spectacular for the coupling caps.
i just put them in about an hour ago. So they are pretty fresh.
ill jsut listen over the next few days and see.
god I really don’t want this to sound pompous. But as a musician of over 35 years I trust my ears more than anything. Measurements are good as well as a supplement. Or ears supplementing measurements .
but I know what instruments sound like after playing them for so long.
so I’ll see what happens. This is part of the fun and exploration. If I like the electrolytic more than so be it. Doesn’t matter.
cheers man
Just to learn and have a project to do.
i love learning about stuff in my hobbies.
on a side note I’m still listening. There is most definitely a difference from the electrolytic .
so far I like the electrolytic that was in there originally more. For he timbre. Sounded more nimble and the most obvious difference was it had more treble or clarity.
go figure.
i love learning about stuff in my hobbies.
on a side note I’m still listening. There is most definitely a difference from the electrolytic .
so far I like the electrolytic that was in there originally more. For he timbre. Sounded more nimble and the most obvious difference was it had more treble or clarity.
go figure.
What I learned from modding my tube amps is that all the components together act as a recipe.
so maybe with these specific drivers , enclosure etc the electrolytics sound better
don’t know.
part of the fun and experimentation.
will be much easier to test when building the external xo so i can do things on the fly
so maybe with these specific drivers , enclosure etc the electrolytics sound better
don’t know.
part of the fun and experimentation.
will be much easier to test when building the external xo so i can do things on the fly
Interestingly the sound improvement I experienced using bypass caps was with the original electrolytics in parallel.
The original electrolytics weren't the usual cheap looking cans. They had an alloy finish and larger in size.
1. I replaced the early Japanese Electrolytic Caps (early 70's expensive high quality types) with Poly caps: Sound deteriorated badly.
2. I then restored the original Japanese Electrolytic Caps, but to save the project placed the Bypass Caps in parallel. Bingo instant improvement.
I haven't tried bypass with poly caps, and have only used them on the tweeter circuits.
Give your experiment time to burn in.
It's worth ensuring this isn't a variable.
the lions share of the sound though is coming from the cap with the largest value.
so I don’t know. Maybe it smoothed something out?
no clue man
but yeah I will give it time no doubt. Is there a difference? Most definitely. Period
interesting that when you changed them out completely with poly caps you didn’t like the sound. Was this on the woofer circuit? Maybe electrolytics work better there? Don’t know.