""Wherever 0 dB is would be the rated power""
That'd be about 32 RMS then...
you're up late, Dave😀 What time is it over there? - its 3.15am here btw......
Been looking at caps (and drinking wine
)
Should get some ordered tomorrow. One cyrus1 is definitely on its way ..
Rob
That'd be about 32 RMS then...
you're up late, Dave😀 What time is it over there? - its 3.15am here btw......
Been looking at caps (and drinking wine
)Should get some ordered tomorrow. One cyrus1 is definitely on its way ..
Rob
RobWells said:
you have 8 hrs on me so it was 7:15 pm here -- right in the middle of the intense part of the workday -- eatin' dinner now.
dave
For some reason I thought it was 4 hours - must've been the wine!
I removed the caps today, and cut out all the rubbish. I've just got to get a pot for the line in and the new caps.
These ps caps have got 3 legs (+ ? - in a triangle.) I'm having trouble finding a replacement. Spec is TOWA 56V 8700uF 85 degrees and it has ON210 down the side. The only company I can find in the UK online is maplins, as rs components dont deal with private sales..Any ideas?
Cheers
Rob
I removed the caps today, and cut out all the rubbish. I've just got to get a pot for the line in and the new caps.
These ps caps have got 3 legs (+ ? - in a triangle.) I'm having trouble finding a replacement. Spec is TOWA 56V 8700uF 85 degrees and it has ON210 down the side. The only company I can find in the UK online is maplins, as rs components dont deal with private sales..Any ideas?
Cheers
Rob
RobWells said:
Halifax is only 4 hr behind you, but i am on the other end of the country. 5 time zones in Canada.
need to kmow what that middle one is -- it could be 2 caps in a single can -- or something else.
These might do:
http://www.maplin.co.uk/products/details.php?CartID=0209221943411443833&moduleno=12040&modulecode=
http://www.maplin.co.uk/products/details.php?CartID=0209221943411443833&moduleno=23074&modulecode=
Just have to figure if you need 2 or 4 and whether you can fit them in.
dave
Hi Dave,
I saw those caps last night, but was stuck looking for ones with 3 pins... I've spent most of today searching the web, but I'm not too great with electronics.
Theres a company called Rapid Electronics near me that I'll take the caps down to on Tuesday, and see if they can help. I'll also take another look at the pcb to see if I can work out what the other pin is for.*
Cheers,
Rob
* just had a look at the board and the pin goes nowhere! - its soldered in but the copper track is just a circle connected to nothing. I'll order a pair of the standard 2 pin things..
I saw those caps last night, but was stuck looking for ones with 3 pins... I've spent most of today searching the web, but I'm not too great with electronics.
Theres a company called Rapid Electronics near me that I'll take the caps down to on Tuesday, and see if they can help. I'll also take another look at the pcb to see if I can work out what the other pin is for.*
Cheers,
Rob
* just had a look at the board and the pin goes nowhere! - its soldered in but the copper track is just a circle connected to nothing. I'll order a pair of the standard 2 pin things..
Progress (or lack of it!) report..
Hello all,
I thought I'd post a couple of pics of the cabinets so far. I've got to order another sheet of mdf to finish the top/bottom and baffle.
The mock up shows the front to back bracing in-situ but not the top to bottom (side-side) ones which locate through the other braces, and in the slots in the sides.
To fill in all progress:
1 cyrus 1 amp on its way, second is bidding on e-bay at the moment.
Still looking for the bass amps.
About to start buying the components for the active x/o - will be esp linkwitz reilly boards (already bought 'em)
I'll probably use these untill Mr Pass releases his discrete x/o's
Am going to start gluing cabinets this coming week - back to work on Monday.
Cheers
Rob
Hello all,
I thought I'd post a couple of pics of the cabinets so far. I've got to order another sheet of mdf to finish the top/bottom and baffle.
The mock up shows the front to back bracing in-situ but not the top to bottom (side-side) ones which locate through the other braces, and in the slots in the sides.
To fill in all progress:
1 cyrus 1 amp on its way, second is bidding on e-bay at the moment.
Still looking for the bass amps.
About to start buying the components for the active x/o - will be esp linkwitz reilly boards (already bought 'em)
I'll probably use these untill Mr Pass releases his discrete x/o's
Am going to start gluing cabinets this coming week - back to work on Monday.
Cheers
Rob
Caps
Hi!
Third pin on cap is often just a (dead) locating pin.
Hope this helps.
Nice speakers!
BTW, my Audiovector speakers (also w. Revelator)
is only stuffed w. carefully placed "rubber"foam blocks.
Arne K
NORWAY
Hi!
Third pin on cap is often just a (dead) locating pin.
Hope this helps.
Nice speakers!
BTW, my Audiovector speakers (also w. Revelator)
is only stuffed w. carefully placed "rubber"foam blocks.
Arne K
NORWAY
Hi Arne K and François,
Thanx for the input on the cap - I've kind of decided to look for a cyrus3 power amp for the bass drivers, and getting a second one later on to drive all 4 bass units singly. I'll leave the jvc on the back burner for this project.
wrt the stuffing, I'm going to have to play about with the amount until my ears are happy!
I'll gladly post some dimensions onto the cad drawing (see page 2 of this thread) but they'll not give radius' so they'd only be a general depth/width kind of thing.
If you needed to use this template you could print it out and scale it in psp etc, or use a photocopier to scale it...
I've got to start work drawing the mid enclosure and tweeter enclosure over the next week or two....
Cheers
Rob
Thanx for the input on the cap - I've kind of decided to look for a cyrus3 power amp for the bass drivers, and getting a second one later on to drive all 4 bass units singly. I'll leave the jvc on the back burner for this project.
wrt the stuffing, I'm going to have to play about with the amount until my ears are happy!
I'll gladly post some dimensions onto the cad drawing (see page 2 of this thread) but they'll not give radius' so they'd only be a general depth/width kind of thing.
If you needed to use this template you could print it out and scale it in psp etc, or use a photocopier to scale it...
I've got to start work drawing the mid enclosure and tweeter enclosure over the next week or two....
Cheers
Rob
fantastic photos. you are layering the MDf differently than me. you are using horzontal layers i am using vertical layers. you need more cut and joints I need ot bend MDF and so can only use 4mm MDF. to make the box stronger I am alternating 4mm MDF with 4mm ply 3 layers of each total 24mm. i will post pictures when there is progress. i got delayed due to a bout of typhoid.
Hi Navin - glad you're over your illness.
I've not done much recently as I've been off work for 2 weeks on holiday. I'm going to stay late this week to start glueing the layers together.
I've yet to start properly on the mid/tweeter enclosures, and am still bouncing ideas about as to what exactly they'll be like..
at the moment the mid will be a long cylinder, with the tweeter above it in a sideways egg shape , mounted by 2 triangular braces at the sides - this will make it easier to align them properly. Nick at work reckons on a flat baffle, tilted for the time align, going back into a curve.
Any ideas anyone?😕
Cheers
Rob
I've not done much recently as I've been off work for 2 weeks on holiday. I'm going to stay late this week to start glueing the layers together.
I've yet to start properly on the mid/tweeter enclosures, and am still bouncing ideas about as to what exactly they'll be like..
at the moment the mid will be a long cylinder, with the tweeter above it in a sideways egg shape , mounted by 2 triangular braces at the sides - this will make it easier to align them properly. Nick at work reckons on a flat baffle, tilted for the time align, going back into a curve.
Any ideas anyone?😕
Cheers
Rob
having worked with tilted baffle as well as 2 box desings. i find the following flaws.
1. tilted baffle work fine as long as the angle is less than 8 deg or so. if the angle is too steep i find the sound is a bit hollow. i dont know why. most of my knowledge is emperical. i have not read any books (I live in India where these books are not available) like LDC etc... if you look at Thiels CS3.5/3.6 the angle is gradual. but then another well respected speaker the WATT has a steep angle but I assume Dave Wilson has a complex XO. Also the version I have heard hasa Focal T120 tweeter that is very bright on axis and is better off axis so maybe DW used a steep angle to ensure that the on axis response is not heard by the listener.
2. 2 box design works fine if the tweeter-midrange joint is smooth. if the tweeter box sits on the midrange box then the tweeter sounds a bit odd I assume it is due to early reflections of the top of the midrange box. one idea is what vandersteen uses for the 1B. the 1B is a 8" 2 way and was Richard Vandersteen's second generation entry level speaker. In this what RV has done is that the tweeter box is angled but the woofer is at 90 deg. the tweeter box edge mates exactly with the woofer box top. here too the angle is quite gradual.
Audio Physics also seems to use gradual angles. Most of my speaker experiments were done between 1978 and 1981. After that I gave up the hobby till in 1987-89 again I got tired and gave up the hobby till 1997-8. Anyway it is was in the 78-81 period that I exprimented with 3 things.
1. biamping (by accident)
2. angling the baffle (again by accident)
3. direct and reflected sound (by accident).
I built 12 pairs of speakers during this period and each was a different concept. that was my learning period. Maybe since I was 15-17 years old my grasp was faster too then.
1. tilted baffle work fine as long as the angle is less than 8 deg or so. if the angle is too steep i find the sound is a bit hollow. i dont know why. most of my knowledge is emperical. i have not read any books (I live in India where these books are not available) like LDC etc... if you look at Thiels CS3.5/3.6 the angle is gradual. but then another well respected speaker the WATT has a steep angle but I assume Dave Wilson has a complex XO. Also the version I have heard hasa Focal T120 tweeter that is very bright on axis and is better off axis so maybe DW used a steep angle to ensure that the on axis response is not heard by the listener.
2. 2 box design works fine if the tweeter-midrange joint is smooth. if the tweeter box sits on the midrange box then the tweeter sounds a bit odd I assume it is due to early reflections of the top of the midrange box. one idea is what vandersteen uses for the 1B. the 1B is a 8" 2 way and was Richard Vandersteen's second generation entry level speaker. In this what RV has done is that the tweeter box is angled but the woofer is at 90 deg. the tweeter box edge mates exactly with the woofer box top. here too the angle is quite gradual.
Audio Physics also seems to use gradual angles. Most of my speaker experiments were done between 1978 and 1981. After that I gave up the hobby till in 1987-89 again I got tired and gave up the hobby till 1997-8. Anyway it is was in the 78-81 period that I exprimented with 3 things.
1. biamping (by accident)
2. angling the baffle (again by accident)
3. direct and reflected sound (by accident).
I built 12 pairs of speakers during this period and each was a different concept. that was my learning period. Maybe since I was 15-17 years old my grasp was faster too then.
Hi Navin,
It's funny you mentioned the focal tweeter, as I was considering that model. IIRC it is aluminium domed, so I chose for soft dome instead.
The rough angle of a tilted baffle is approx 18 degrees, using the drivers I have, This would be very similar to the watt shape, but not as angled..
My original vision was more like this, but with smoother rounded cabs:
Cheers
Rob
It's funny you mentioned the focal tweeter, as I was considering that model. IIRC it is aluminium domed, so I chose for soft dome instead.
The rough angle of a tilted baffle is approx 18 degrees, using the drivers I have, This would be very similar to the watt shape, but not as angled..
My original vision was more like this, but with smoother rounded cabs:
Cheers
Rob
Attachments
that focal tweeter was not suited to India's hot humid climate the foam surround died fast. just a warning.
if you are doing this look at Vandersteen's site. they use a similar concept but with more WAF friendly cosmetics.
If I needed a 18deg slope I would prefer to use a staggered baffle as in you pic. staggered baffles loo ugly and that is why i recomend Vandersteen's style. they sort of put a cloth sock over the cabinet.
as I said earlier WATT and in the past Conrad Johnson (I think the brand was Synthesis) also made speakers with steep angles. Both speakers are well respected. CJ (or Synthesis) made a 6" 2 way using I think Vifa or Dynaudio drivers.
if you are doing this look at Vandersteen's site. they use a similar concept but with more WAF friendly cosmetics.
If I needed a 18deg slope I would prefer to use a staggered baffle as in you pic. staggered baffles loo ugly and that is why i recomend Vandersteen's style. they sort of put a cloth sock over the cabinet.
as I said earlier WATT and in the past Conrad Johnson (I think the brand was Synthesis) also made speakers with steep angles. Both speakers are well respected. CJ (or Synthesis) made a 6" 2 way using I think Vifa or Dynaudio drivers.
Hi again, Navin
I'm gonna go for the seperate enclosures and have the mid slightly eliptical, and the tweeter more of an egg shape - they'll have to be handed left and right..
I saw some of the vandersteen range reviewed about 6 months back, but not the stepped baffle one.
I'm now the owner of two cyrus1 amps, and am looking for the bass amps now. I've had a heavy week so am falling behind a bit, but should be getting stuff together by the end of next week.
Cheers
Rob
I'm gonna go for the seperate enclosures and have the mid slightly eliptical, and the tweeter more of an egg shape - they'll have to be handed left and right..
I saw some of the vandersteen range reviewed about 6 months back, but not the stepped baffle one.
I'm now the owner of two cyrus1 amps, and am looking for the bass amps now. I've had a heavy week so am falling behind a bit, but should be getting stuff together by the end of next week.
Cheers
Rob
how are you planning on building eliptical enclosures. this is another challengs. a few years ago Focal used to sell an enclosure called an egg. it was pre bored for a 7" and 1". I think it was pre bored for the 7k011DBL and T120 the DBL is adual voice col and Focal used the use teh other coil for difraction step compensation I thought that was smart.
see if you can find these. too big for teh tweeter but might work for your mid.
see if you can find these. too big for teh tweeter but might work for your mid.
Hi Navin,
originally I planned to have two tapering enclosures a la b+w, but no - one I've asked is interested in turning them down on a lathe.🙁
When I said eliptical I meant from the front, made out of layers as before, but vertically sliced.
I've attatched a dodgy windows paint drawing...
Cheers
Rob
originally I planned to have two tapering enclosures a la b+w, but no - one I've asked is interested in turning them down on a lathe.🙁
When I said eliptical I meant from the front, made out of layers as before, but vertically sliced.
I've attatched a dodgy windows paint drawing...
Cheers
Rob
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