which type of stuffing?

[Mos Fetish]

This thread just won't die!

Rob, great speakers!

Got any pics of the back baffle? And, diid you laminate the sidea then attach the top and bottom caps?

Mos

 

[SpeakerBob]

Thanks Mos,

You want to see the back of the speakers? - Theres no ports or cable stuff (the speaker cable runs through a hole in the bottom - sealed with silicon sealant)

If yes I'll borrow the camera again

Yes I veneered the cab and then fitted the top and bottom layer last - this so I could flush trim with the router.

Cheers

Rob

 

[JC Fardo]

sticking fiberglass to mdf

Hi

I have a TL in building progress and its project indicates linning the line walls with fiberglass roof mat. Our local stores sells 15mm ( 5/8") yellow resin hardened FG roof mat sheets with decorative PVC skin. From Saint-Gobain with commercial brand "Forrovid"

What is the best usual method you DIY member use to stick the roof mat to MDF

Hot melt, hot melt in dots, contact glue, PVA glue?

Peel off the PVC?

In advance thanks form comments and assistance

JC

 

[vincentrubble]

BAF

I still haven't equated BAF to anything i use.

I'd use a mix of the wool and pillow stuffing (dacron wool). The wool provides the majority of the damping, and the dacron keeps it from collapsing. You can also pull or add this thru the driver holes after it is sealed up.

dave

Hi Dave;

Any idea what would be comparable to BAF that can be found in Canada?

Thanks,
Vince

 

[iScream]

Wait, what happened with this project? You got me hooked then it all just ended!

I'm really interested in building up layers of plywood or MDF to make a tapered and curved enclosure for a mid and tweeter.

I'm pretty sure I can handle the woodworking stuff but how did these work out as far as performance? Don't leave me hanging, Rob.

-Chris

 

[SpeakerBob]

Hi Chris,

I just typed a long answer to you and it got lost trying to post it. Will try again later.

Rob.

 

[SpeakerBob]

cliff notes were:

If I did it again I'd use ply not mdf as the mdf split in a couple of place and needed fibreglassing to repair.

I'd make the bottom layer the correct size, and the rest of the layers 1mm bigger all round. Then I'd glue one layer at a time and flush trim with a router to get a perfect line up at the join. (less sanding )

On a mid box you can make the internal wall shape more random if you wanted to (break up standing waves / reflections ?)


All in I was really pleased with the speakers. The only problem was they sounded best crossed at 40Hz to my subs (my subs didn't sound great above 40Hz) but needed to be crossed at 80Hz for dvds / electronic music at proper levels. I ended up selling off all the drivers and building a pair of labhorns and going down the pro audio road.

hth,

Rob.

 

[iScream]

I ended up selling off all the drivers and building a pair of labhorns and going down the pro audio road.

No way. You don't even have them anymore?

Thanks for the tips on what you learned building the curved and tapered enclosures. If and when I decide to try it I'll skip the MDF and get my hands on some good plywood. I've got a couple ideas on how to do it with different router bits I already have. And I've got a Rigid brand oscillating belt/spindle sander with a tilting table to hopefully make the sanding stuff easier and more precise.

If you were going to build those bass modules again, would you go with the same two Scanspeak 10's in each cabinet? I've got a couple nice 15" subs and I'll be running active with DSP so I can do pretty much anything with crossover points and level setting.

I know it's been a few years...

Thanks,
Chris

 

[SpeakerBob]

2nd time around I'd do a pair of pro 15" or pro 12" drivers with the lower one in a 0.5 config to help with baffle step. (I'm planning something right now but they will be in boring boxes to flush mount behind a screen)

If I had good money to spend it would be JBL drivers.

I'd also make the cab taller and squeeze a 2" CD loaded horn in at the top with a slot loaded tweeter above covering ~7k up.

This is no slight on the scanspeak drivers btw - their sound quality was awesome. I just found them lacking in output at 'big grin' levels. If you have neighbours the s-speaks will be plenty loud enough.

Cheers,
Rob.

 

[iScream]

Thanks man. I'm more concerned with sound quality for music than SPL but it's interesting that you had two of the 10 inchers in each box and didn't get an output level to satisfy you.

-Chris

 

[SpeakerBob]

It was only in the 40Hz - 80Hz range that the scanspeaks lacked output. Crossed at 80Hz they were great but my subs at the time weren't as good playing that high.