Ok!,Thanks Dave
I'll keep the 4:1 ratio of the start/end.
I'll start drawing it in earnest tomorrow. I only get a half hour lunch break, and live 42 miles from work so I never get much personal work done through the week. I'm desperate to get the bass cabs glued up so's I can show some real progress.
I've pretty much got everything finalised now though, and once its all drawn on the cad, I can use my lunchbreaks to construct.
I've also got to start the x-overs, but these will be done at home.
Cheers
Rob
I'll keep the 4:1 ratio of the start/end.
I'll start drawing it in earnest tomorrow. I only get a half hour lunch break, and live 42 miles from work so I never get much personal work done through the week. I'm desperate to get the bass cabs glued up so's I can show some real progress.
I've pretty much got everything finalised now though, and once its all drawn on the cad, I can use my lunchbreaks to construct.
I've also got to start the x-overs, but these will be done at home.
Cheers
Rob
another option is importing boses from www.norh.com they make some nice boxes for their own systems. I am not sure but when they started out they used to sell empty boxes too.
just a thought. something tells me you guys already know this.
just a thought. something tells me you guys already know this.
Alternative mid/tweeter cabinet
Hi Rob
It sounds like you're fairly sold on the idea of a TL mid enclosure, but here is another alternative. Its a design I may use for the next part of my project, depending on the type of mid driver I go for.
This design could be made using MDF profiles like you have been using, but cut on a 6 degree angle all the way around. This would be done with a jig saw or alternatively you could laser cut oversize and then put the angle on with a router.
The drawing is done using Acad V14, which has limited 3D capabilities. The mid driver is drawn as a 150mm unit, with the cabinet being 250 high, x 220 wide and 330 Deep. The approximate internal volume is 6-7 litres, however you could easily scale the thing up for greater volume.
BTW The nice finish is teak - easy to do on a CAD system, but probably too difficult for a shape like this. Maybe the front panel could be veneered only.
Mick
Hi Rob
It sounds like you're fairly sold on the idea of a TL mid enclosure, but here is another alternative. Its a design I may use for the next part of my project, depending on the type of mid driver I go for.
This design could be made using MDF profiles like you have been using, but cut on a 6 degree angle all the way around. This would be done with a jig saw or alternatively you could laser cut oversize and then put the angle on with a router.
The drawing is done using Acad V14, which has limited 3D capabilities. The mid driver is drawn as a 150mm unit, with the cabinet being 250 high, x 220 wide and 330 Deep. The approximate internal volume is 6-7 litres, however you could easily scale the thing up for greater volume.
BTW The nice finish is teak - easy to do on a CAD system, but probably too difficult for a shape like this. Maybe the front panel could be veneered only.
Mick
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Well with those tools it might be difficult Navin. You wouldn't need a hammer, but it you could trade in for a jig saw you'd almost have everything you'd need. Whatever design you build you'd need a jig saw or router to cut the driver holes in the front baffle. If you were really on a budget you might do it all with a coping saw, but that would be a great labour of love. Smoothing of the outside shape would be easiest with a belt sander, but with a bit more effort a sanding block could be used. Of course you'd also need some clamps to hold the layers together during glueing.
Something that I didn't mention above, is that this construction technique would allow you to build in a shelf type brace, driver support, or what ever other internal features that you wanted without extra joinery. Just cut them out of what ever horizontal layer you choose. In many ways this construction technique would be easier than building a box, as the joinery is just gluing flat surfaces together.
Mick
Something that I didn't mention above, is that this construction technique would allow you to build in a shelf type brace, driver support, or what ever other internal features that you wanted without extra joinery. Just cut them out of what ever horizontal layer you choose. In many ways this construction technique would be easier than building a box, as the joinery is just gluing flat surfaces together.
Mick
Hi chaps,
I've just got home after staying late at work to start the bass enclosures. - Ran into a prob getting the layers tight, as I tried to construct including the top - bottom braces. These were a flush fit, and caused too much resistance between the layers. I'm starting again tomorrow, and gluing 3 layers at a time, using very heavy weight overnight to ensure a tight join. I'll fit the top - bottom ones after. Should work out very well, but take a couple of weeks doing 3 layers per day..Also I'll not be using the dowels to align . I'll rely on my eyes, and fill the voids with sand before fitting the top and bottom layers.
Kanga, the mid you.ve drawn is similar to the watt/puppy speaker, and I did consider using the tilted baffle. The only prob is ensuring the time alignment. With seperate enclosures you can move them individually, and bolt in place when bang on (hopefully )
Navin, I'm sure you could achieve a layered enclosure using a jigsaw or router. Some jigsaws you can adjust the angle of the cut I believe. Very useful..
I've got to go and get some food down me, I'll give an update soon.
Cheers
Rob
I've just got home after staying late at work to start the bass enclosures. - Ran into a prob getting the layers tight, as I tried to construct including the top - bottom braces. These were a flush fit, and caused too much resistance between the layers. I'm starting again tomorrow, and gluing 3 layers at a time, using very heavy weight overnight to ensure a tight join. I'll fit the top - bottom ones after. Should work out very well, but take a couple of weeks doing 3 layers per day..Also I'll not be using the dowels to align . I'll rely on my eyes, and fill the voids with sand before fitting the top and bottom layers.
Kanga, the mid you.ve drawn is similar to the watt/puppy speaker, and I did consider using the tilted baffle. The only prob is ensuring the time alignment. With seperate enclosures you can move them individually, and bolt in place when bang on (hopefully
)Navin, I'm sure you could achieve a layered enclosure using a jigsaw or router. Some jigsaws you can adjust the angle of the cut I believe. Very useful..
I've got to go and get some food down me, I'll give an update soon.
Cheers
Rob
hey guys i was being sarcastic. i guess this is what sarcasam gets me ha ha ha i loved pinkmouse's suggestion best. My wife wold tell me to use the screwdriver on my head (tighten my screws).
I dont have a jig saw. I have a table saw though. I will be taking my braces to somone who has a jig saw. He charges about $1 to cut a hole each brace as 2 holes. 10 braces. $20 for holes alone. gotta find what a jig saw costs here.
i prefer rob wells 2 box theory. rob, you could look at vandersteen (but i think you have done that already) to see how they do it. the 2 box system can creates all sorts of edge difraction problems if not done well.
ha ha ha i loved pinkmouse's suggestion best. My wife wold tell me to use the screwdriver on my head (tighten my screws).I dont have a jig saw. I have a table saw though. I will be taking my braces to somone who has a jig saw. He charges about $1 to cut a hole each brace as 2 holes. 10 braces. $20 for holes alone. gotta find what a jig saw costs here.
i prefer rob wells 2 box theory. rob, you could look at vandersteen (but i think you have done that already) to see how they do it. the 2 box system can creates all sorts of edge difraction problems if not done well.
Hello all,
I thought I'd revive this thread with an update and some revisions.....
My bass cabs are all glued together and awaiting veneering, so's I've been concentrating on the mids/tweeters...
Originally I was looking at seperate enclosures, but I've decided to test a sloped baffle before I go seperate. The reason? - the tweeter I've chosen has a face plate nearly as big as the mid driver! - aesthetics push towards a baffle type affair, and I feel this may help the tweeter anyhow.....
Don't worry Dave - its still full on for a folded tapered pipe for the mid....
I've got a test mic on order so's I can get the right angle - if it's too steep I'll re-assess the enclosures. I've got the baffles cut out, and I'm going to put a 38mm 45 degree chamfer on them...I'll post a pic as soon as I can borrow a digi cam.
I put a 6mm layer over the baffle (with cut outs) to flush mount the drivers...
Any sugggestions on spacing material (1mm for the tweeter, 2mm for the mid) to get perfect flush? I've got vulcanised rubber at work (1mm thick) anything better?
Cheers
Rob
I thought I'd revive this thread with an update and some revisions.....
My bass cabs are all glued together and awaiting veneering, so's I've been concentrating on the mids/tweeters...
Originally I was looking at seperate enclosures, but I've decided to test a sloped baffle before I go seperate. The reason? - the tweeter I've chosen has a face plate nearly as big as the mid driver! - aesthetics push towards a baffle type affair, and I feel this may help the tweeter anyhow.....
Don't worry Dave - its still full on for a folded tapered pipe for the mid....
I've got a test mic on order so's I can get the right angle - if it's too steep I'll re-assess the enclosures. I've got the baffles cut out, and I'm going to put a 38mm 45 degree chamfer on them...I'll post a pic as soon as I can borrow a digi cam.
I put a 6mm layer over the baffle (with cut outs) to flush mount the drivers...
Any sugggestions on spacing material (1mm for the tweeter, 2mm for the mid) to get perfect flush? I've got vulcanised rubber at work (1mm thick) anything better?
Cheers
Rob
Rob
I use sorbothane rubber, I got a load of it years ago at a tool show, it comes on rolls like draught excluder, and is about 6 mm thick, you just compress it to the required thickness when tightening the bolts on the drivers. As well as acting as a spacer, it also works quite well to isolate the driver from box vibrations.
I use sorbothane rubber, I got a load of it years ago at a tool show, it comes on rolls like draught excluder, and is about 6 mm thick, you just compress it to the required thickness when tightening the bolts on the drivers. As well as acting as a spacer, it also works quite well to isolate the driver from box vibrations.
Hi Al,
Thanks for the response...when you say like draught excluder, I'm assuming the shape of the roll and not the material...
Is it harder than the draught excluder foam? - will it compress to 1mm thick?
The stuff I've got at work is very hard thin sheets of rubber (harder than pencil erasers), and its the ideal thickness, I'm just not sure if it will seal as well as something thicker but softer.
The bonus of this stuff is that I can make a gasket cutter to cut out the perfect shape (it's what I do for a living )
Cheers
Rob
Thanks for the response...when you say like draught excluder, I'm assuming the shape of the roll and not the material...
Is it harder than the draught excluder foam? - will it compress to 1mm thick?
The stuff I've got at work is very hard thin sheets of rubber (harder than pencil erasers), and its the ideal thickness, I'm just not sure if it will seal as well as something thicker but softer.
The bonus of this stuff is that I can make a gasket cutter to cut out the perfect shape (it's what I do for a living
)Cheers
Rob
Rob
If you've got it, flaunt it!
Go for it for the time being, it won't hurt, and you can always change it later.
I find it is often worth going to Tool Fairs and Auto Jumbles if you find them locally. You can pick up strange bits and pieces very cheaply.
If you've got it, flaunt it!
Go for it for the time being, it won't hurt, and you can always change it later.
Easily. It is very squishy! I have no idea what it is meant for in real life though.
I find it is often worth going to Tool Fairs and Auto Jumbles if you find them locally. You can pick up strange bits and pieces very cheaply.
Pic of the baffle I'm going to test out..
I've dropped the drivers in, and I reckon the angle won't be too steep - the tweeter has a concave faceplate which means the dome is already set back from a standard tweeter. With the baffle tilted slightly the magnet centres are aligned, and the loudspeaker cookbook suggested that at lowest frequencies the drivers acoustic centre is actually behind the magnet..Obviously I'll only know for sure when I've tested though
I'll sit the mid/tweet can on top of the bass using spikes, with small location holes drilled into the top of the bass, to keep it aligned with the bass...
btw - the pic looks a bit funny as my mate took the pic for me - he assumed the wide bit was the top/narrow bottom, and photo'ed it upside down, hence the weird viewing angle (pic rotated 180 degrees)
I've dropped the drivers in, and I reckon the angle won't be too steep - the tweeter has a concave faceplate which means the dome is already set back from a standard tweeter. With the baffle tilted slightly the magnet centres are aligned, and the loudspeaker cookbook suggested that at lowest frequencies the drivers acoustic centre is actually behind the magnet..Obviously I'll only know for sure when I've tested though
I'll sit the mid/tweet can on top of the bass using spikes, with small location holes drilled into the top of the bass, to keep it aligned with the bass...
btw - the pic looks a bit funny as my mate took the pic for me - he assumed the wide bit was the top/narrow bottom, and photo'ed it upside down, hence the weird viewing angle (pic rotated 180 degrees)
Attachments
Why the ..........
... didn't I see this thread earlier !!!
When I started doing different DIY curved shapes 4 or 5 years ago, I thought no-one else would follow !!!
Rob, Navin, and others: It's sooooo good to see other developing curved sides speakers, and doing things I only wish I had time and patience and that other thing (money !) to try.
Keep up the good work guys !!!
... didn't I see this thread earlier !!!
When I started doing different DIY curved shapes 4 or 5 years ago, I thought no-one else would follow !!!
Rob, Navin, and others: It's sooooo good to see other developing curved sides speakers, and doing things I only wish I had time and patience and that other thing (money !) to try.
Keep up the good work guys !!!
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