Hello again,guys
That wool looks pretty easy to die cut, and then bevel the edges of the star after with a scalpel, so no probs there.
I'm moving into a house soon where I'll have my own listening room/theatre (not huge, but ok) so I'll do the baffle compensation and the wool thing there, as it'll probably be a bit different to the place I'm in now. That means I've only got to source 3 amps, build an active x/o and build the speakers. I'll be running off most of the layers tomorrow, but am off for a break for the next week or so, and won't be doing much building...I'll try and get some pics up though..
Rob
That wool looks pretty easy to die cut, and then bevel the edges of the star after with a scalpel, so no probs there.
I'm moving into a house soon where I'll have my own listening room/theatre (not huge, but ok) so I'll do the baffle compensation and the wool thing there, as it'll probably be a bit different to the place I'm in now. That means I've only got to source 3 amps, build an active x/o and build the speakers. I'll be running off most of the layers tomorrow, but am off for a break for the next week or so, and won't be doing much building...I'll try and get some pics up though..
Rob
RobWells said:
I printed a template out from Illustrator (there is a star primitive that just requires the R of the inner and outer points and the number of points), cut that out, felt-penned the shape onto the wool, cut the star out with a razor-knife and then did and irregular bevel with scissors (irregular is probably better but also the only solution given the tools and the skill level of the tool user :^)
dave
Hi Dave,
I could also use a "wave" rule in the die, which will cut it like the "safety edge" on cardboard boxes - this would make a very irregular shape, but difficult to bevel....could just freehand cut the star with a scalpel making for a nice smooth irregular shape.
Is it possible that I wont need this, if the baffle it goes in is an unequal shape with a nice bevel? - what sonic clues would I listen for, or do I need a mic/spectrum analyser?
Also on a totally different note, would anyone recommend a naim nap 140 as a good amp to drive the s-speak bass units (2 x 8565-01 per side, parrallel) - I've seen one here second hand for a good price. I was planning on a cyrus 3 with psx, but dont know much about naim gear...
Cheers
Rob
I could also use a "wave" rule in the die, which will cut it like the "safety edge" on cardboard boxes - this would make a very irregular shape, but difficult to bevel....could just freehand cut the star with a scalpel making for a nice smooth irregular shape.
Is it possible that I wont need this, if the baffle it goes in is an unequal shape with a nice bevel? - what sonic clues would I listen for, or do I need a mic/spectrum analyser?
Also on a totally different note, would anyone recommend a naim nap 140 as a good amp to drive the s-speak bass units (2 x 8565-01 per side, parrallel) - I've seen one here second hand for a good price. I was planning on a cyrus 3 with psx, but dont know much about naim gear...
Cheers
Rob
RobWells said:
You may not need it. The test i use is to temporaily attch it and live with it for at least a couple weeks. Then take it off and see if you miss it.
The NAIM is a nice amp (i have 2 160s) and there is a fellow in the UK doing mod bits -- there is a NAIM thread that has the URL. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=62199. Even thou the NAIMs have a lot more grunt than their rated power would indicate, you might find it does not have enuff power for this job*. On the mid or the top it would be very good so if the price is good (what is the asking?) it is probably worth grabbing.
* that said i'd probably use a ballsy 2x25-50 W amp on each speaker if i was in your situation.
dave
""that said i'd probably use a ballsy 2x25-50 W amp on each speaker if i was in your situation""
You mean using 2 stereo amps to power the 4 bass speakers in the cab seperately (4 x 8ohms rather than 2 x 4 ohms?)
I did mention this back when I was talking about cyrus1 amps - I wasn't sure whether most amps would sound as good into 4ohms..
The naims go for around £350 - £400..This makes it viable for one amp, not so good for two - I was kinda reckoning on going for diy valves eventually for the mid and tweet, hence my idea of using cyrus 1's for starters as they go for about £80 these days.
I really only want to buy the bass amp once, hence the £300-£400 budget (2nd hand)
The other options are the audiolab 8000p or the cyrus 3 power.
I've owned a cyrus2/psx before hence my disposition to them
I was offered a quad 405 -2 for £220, and this is meant to be a "current dumper" 100watts rms , but I know nothing of these - a search on the web suggested a "veiled" sound and a need for upgrades...
Cheers
Rob
You mean using 2 stereo amps to power the 4 bass speakers in the cab seperately (4 x 8ohms rather than 2 x 4 ohms?)
I did mention this back when I was talking about cyrus1 amps - I wasn't sure whether most amps would sound as good into 4ohms..
The naims go for around £350 - £400..This makes it viable for one amp, not so good for two - I was kinda reckoning on going for diy valves eventually for the mid and tweet, hence my idea of using cyrus 1's for starters as they go for about £80 these days.
I really only want to buy the bass amp once, hence the £300-£400 budget (2nd hand)
The other options are the audiolab 8000p or the cyrus 3 power.
I've owned a cyrus2/psx before hence my disposition to them
I was offered a quad 405 -2 for £220, and this is meant to be a "current dumper" 100watts rms , but I know nothing of these - a search on the web suggested a "veiled" sound and a need for upgrades...
Cheers
Rob
RobWells said:
Yep.
Ouch. I always considered the 140 to be a newer stepped down version of my 160s. My 160s are going to go up at some point (the goal is to DIY most everything myself eventually) and i was thinking that if i can get $600-700 CAD (£250 - £300) each i'd be happy. Go out and get yourself a couple of the Cyrus. Leaves enuff cash to mod them. Get 3 and you have temporary power for the whole thing. You can replace them one at a time, and in the end you have a spare to work on without bringing the whole thing down.
dave
Wow the prices over there are pretty nice! - I've just seen a nap160 going for £450 over here!
I've just secured one cyrus1 amp for £80 . Just need 1 more and a good bass amp..
Is it fairly easy to convert the cyrus 1 to a power amp? or should I not bother, and just set the volume control to about 12 o'clock and leave it..
Its looking like 2 cyrus power amps for the bass is the way to go!
I've got an old jvc ax-2 intergrated sitting under my table here, but I'm pretty sure it is way too bad to use with these speakers!
Rob
I've just secured one cyrus1 amp for £80 . Just need 1 more and a good bass amp..
Is it fairly easy to convert the cyrus 1 to a power amp? or should I not bother, and just set the volume control to about 12 o'clock and leave it..
Its looking like 2 cyrus power amps for the bass is the way to go!
I've got an old jvc ax-2 intergrated sitting under my table here, but I'm pretty sure it is way too bad to use with these speakers!
Rob
RobWells said:
I wonder what post back to England would be?
If you just bypass the switch and leave the vol control in it you could leave an attenuator (and the required buffer) out of your XO. I'd start by just using the AUX in. I'd start with the vol wide open and adjust it from there.
Some of these are sleepers. Try it. Even if it isn't state of the art it gets you going. (i will admit that over here JVC is considered a TLA for Junk Very Cheap even thou they do build some good stuff -- pro video in particular)
dave
""Some of these are sleepers. Try it. Even if it isn't state of the art it gets you going.""
No, I used this after my cyrus 2 died on, and even my wife who does'nt care about hifi noticed the drop in quality.
""I wonder what post back to England would be? ""
Probably a helluva lot! - might be worth getting a price off fedex or something, but I'll probably get stung for import duty aswell...
Check out this amp:
Rob
No, I used this after my cyrus 2 died on, and even my wife who does'nt care about hifi noticed the drop in quality.
""I wonder what post back to England would be? ""
Probably a helluva lot! - might be worth getting a price off fedex or something, but I'll probably get stung for import duty aswell...
Check out this amp:
Rob
Attachments
""Did you use it just as a power-amp or with all that junk in the pre-amp in the path? Can you easily get at just the power-amp?""
I'll have a look over the weekend...
""Even thou they are made in the UK. paying VAT i could see (even we get hit on some used stuff), but duties?""
I'll have to look into it - but for a start, £250 +vat = £293.73
+delivery , at a guess £40 - £50 is pushing similar prices to the UK - I'm quoting the prices from second hand dealers, as I've got a couple of hi-fi mags sitting by my pc. I'd probably find a nap 160 cheaper in a private sale.
TBH I reckon you'd be better off selling at home....
Cheers
Rob
I'll have a look over the weekend...
""Even thou they are made in the UK. paying VAT i could see (even we get hit on some used stuff), but duties?""
I'll have to look into it - but for a start, £250 +vat = £293.73
+delivery , at a guess £40 - £50 is pushing similar prices to the UK - I'm quoting the prices from second hand dealers, as I've got a couple of hi-fi mags sitting by my pc. I'd probably find a nap 160 cheaper in a private sale.
TBH I reckon you'd be better off selling at home....
Cheers
Rob
""why not get a nice big power amp 250W x 2. I use a Carver M1.0t fo my subs.""
The problem with amps is : nice+big= ££££ The higher the output, the more expensive the amp. Theres a quality pay off for output, all other things being equal.Hence me going for around the 80/100 watt mark.
btw - the mid in this speaker is 94.5 db sensitivity, which is why I'm using the 2 s-speaks per cab (89db+89db+the extra you get from doubling up = 95db if I've got my math right...) Hopefully I wont need a monster amp to drive these, and will be using valves for the mid and tweeter eventually..
I finished burning out my layers today, and have taken some pics of them mocked up (minus baffle and vertical bracing) I'll post as soon as I finish the film and get it develloped...
I'm a bit busy for the next week or so, so not much will be happening..
Dave - the jvc does'nt look too hard to "mod"- looks like all the "junk"stuff sits before the volume pot, so I can rip it all out (the pot is noisy anyway) and just have 1 input -> pot-> input on pcb for it. There are 2 big caps which are leaking, so I'll need to replace them aswell.(56V 8700uF)
the transistors are toshiba - 2 x 2SB755 2x2SD845
Rob
The problem with amps is : nice+big= ££££ The higher the output, the more expensive the amp. Theres a quality pay off for output, all other things being equal.Hence me going for around the 80/100 watt mark.
btw - the mid in this speaker is 94.5 db sensitivity, which is why I'm using the 2 s-speaks per cab (89db+89db+the extra you get from doubling up = 95db if I've got my math right...) Hopefully I wont need a monster amp to drive these, and will be using valves for the mid and tweeter eventually..
I finished burning out my layers today, and have taken some pics of them mocked up (minus baffle and vertical bracing) I'll post as soon as I finish the film and get it develloped...
I'm a bit busy for the next week or so, so not much will be happening..
Dave - the jvc does'nt look too hard to "mod"- looks like all the "junk"stuff sits before the volume pot, so I can rip it all out (the pot is noisy anyway) and just have 1 input -> pot-> input on pcb for it. There are 2 big caps which are leaking, so I'll need to replace them aswell.(56V 8700uF)
the transistors are toshiba - 2 x 2SB755 2x2SD845
Rob
""The big caps are the PS filter caps.""
Any brand names I should look out for when replacing?
There are a few elna caps in there, but most don't seem branded....
I'm not an expert in these things, but the heatsink is huge compared to the transistors - the amp is meant to be "super A" but I cant believe it could be class A. However the back plate says it draws 400watts,and the peak output (according to the flashing led's ) says 80 watts. Is that like 20 RMS? If so this could be worth a tweak or two.
Before I owned it my brother in law had it running a massive pair of wharfdales - 'bout 5 drivers per cab (same size as under the counter fridges!) and I always remember the bass being really tight....maybe it was dying before I got it?
btw, just did a search on caps and "WOW" - this seems an emotive subject.
Cheers
Rob
Any brand names I should look out for when replacing?
There are a few elna caps in there, but most don't seem branded....
I'm not an expert in these things, but the heatsink is huge compared to the transistors - the amp is meant to be "super A" but I cant believe it could be class A. However the back plate says it draws 400watts,and the peak output (according to the flashing led's ) says 80 watts. Is that like 20 RMS? If so this could be worth a tweak or two.
Before I owned it my brother in law had it running a massive pair of wharfdales - 'bout 5 drivers per cab (same size as under the counter fridges!) and I always remember the bass being really tight....maybe it was dying before I got it?
btw, just did a search on caps and "WOW" - this seems an emotive subject.
Cheers
Rob
RobWells said:
Probably biased heavily in AB.
What color is the 80 w LED? 56V on the PS caps would tend to allow a guesstimate of 45-50V rails. Could be rated at 80W RMS
If you can see them leaking now, Yes. Start by just finding some computer grade PS caps of the appropriate voltage & about the same size & value - maybe a bit bigger. If you find it has some worth then you can invest in better parts later.
btw, just did a search on caps and "WOW" - this seems an emotive subject.
:^)
dave
""What color is the 80 w LED? 56V on the PS caps would tend to allow a guesstimate of 45-50V rails. Could be rated at 80W RMS""
the led's are all green.... The meter thing says peak power above it, and has a Db dcale from infinity to +4Db, with 0 - 80 watts/8 ohm ..... pretty sure its less than 80w rms....
I'll have a look for caps tomorrow - d'ya reckon I'll have to re-bias the amp (its got a pair of plastic pots which I'm assuming are the bias pots.....)
Cheers
Rob
the led's are all green.... The meter thing says peak power above it, and has a Db dcale from infinity to +4Db, with 0 - 80 watts/8 ohm ..... pretty sure its less than 80w rms....
I'll have a look for caps tomorrow - d'ya reckon I'll have to re-bias the amp (its got a pair of plastic pots which I'm assuming are the bias pots.....)
Cheers
Rob
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