Build #3
Little update!
I made the front baffle. Just a second 18 mm plate of mdf with a 5 mm recess. Unlike the other woodwork I didn't use screws, but only woodglue. Well, clamping is a thing
And I bought some nice black screws.
Only left is a paint job and soldering the wires.
Little update!
I made the front baffle. Just a second 18 mm plate of mdf with a 5 mm recess. Unlike the other woodwork I didn't use screws, but only woodglue. Well, clamping is a thing
And I bought some nice black screws.
Only left is a paint job and soldering the wires.
Attachments
Love it!! I’m so envious of you owning this driver, meant in a complimentary way of course.
You showing this build has tempted me into buying two of these for my design, so you’ve cost me 400 pounds haha. Was hoping to wait a couple of years, but absolutely need that Seas driver look. Won’t have the magnificent and sleek design of your enclosure though��
Enjoy your testing and listening!!
You showing this build has tempted me into buying two of these for my design, so you’ve cost me 400 pounds haha. Was hoping to wait a couple of years, but absolutely need that Seas driver look. Won’t have the magnificent and sleek design of your enclosure though��
Enjoy your testing and listening!!
Nice work...!
If I had to do anything different, I'd have probably opted for a fold that would have got the driver a bit closer to the ground and a bit closer to the vent. Something like the TL2 or MLTL2 folds on my Horn Folding page - The Subwoofer DIY Page - Horn Folding
If I had to do anything different, I'd have probably opted for a fold that would have got the driver a bit closer to the ground and a bit closer to the vent. Something like the TL2 or MLTL2 folds on my Horn Folding page - The Subwoofer DIY Page - Horn Folding
Build #4
Another little update.
I filled up the screw holes, put a nice chamfer on the sides and the driver hole (it was too tight), sealed the mdf with woodglue+water mix and a layer of primer.
Another little update.
I filled up the screw holes, put a nice chamfer on the sides and the driver hole (it was too tight), sealed the mdf with woodglue+water mix and a layer of primer.
Attachments
And here is the result.
All measurements and the average in the middle.
The driver has a nice circular line topping at 55 Hz.
But the thing is about the port!
A little dip around 60-70Hz, but you don't see it in the average. From 14Hz pretty flat
Mention I have a lowpass on my amp at 100 Hz. Obviously..
All measurements and the average in the middle.
The driver has a nice circular line topping at 55 Hz.
But the thing is about the port!
A little dip around 60-70Hz, but you don't see it in the average. From 14Hz pretty flat
Mention I have a lowpass on my amp at 100 Hz. Obviously..
Attachments
To be more specific, I'm referring to REW's "Trace Arithmetic" feature to combine the response of the vent and the response of the driver, as illustrated in the example below.
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Note that you'll have to adjust the level of the vent's response before doing the combination, based on the difference in surface area between the vent and the driver.
In my example's case, the driver and PR have the same Sd, so no level adjustment was required before combination of the two response curves.
In my example's case, the driver and PR have the same Sd, so no level adjustment was required before combination of the two response curves.
Hey Booger, look at this picture. Is this what you mean?
The design and the measurement next to each other.
In Hornresp the first big dip is at around 75 Hz. In the measurement it is around 65 Hz. In my opinion the shape is 'confirmed', but shifted to a little lower frequency. Mention the same shift at very lows. The vent extends to 13 Hz instead of 17 Hz.
