Why not if he's so experienced with them? I mean according to published specs it's more a home version (lower tuned) of a car audio boombox, ergo not worth the time/$$ to build if you want high SQ and good blend to your 'full-range' mains, but if its published specs are far enough off...............
Measure, or have measured, your driver's T/S specs, i.e. same as the published specs except specific to your driver.
GM
Okay. Just gotta "warp" it to a size that can act as a speaker stand.
How do i measure T/S specs on my own? Do i need any special tools?
I have exactly 85cm from floor to tweeter, when my speakers stand on the sub.
Seems low assuming the tweeter is at the accepted average seated ear height.
GM
Okay. Just gotta "warp" it to a size that can act as a speaker stand.
How do i measure T/S specs on my own? Do i need any special tools?
At 50 L gross (if you build it), it appears you will have a large cavity to damp with kitty litter or similar.
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Measurements or buy a woofer tester.
GM
At 50 L gross (if you build it), it appears you will have a large cavity to damp with kitty litter or similar.
The Subwoofer DIY Page - Measurements or buy a woofer tester.
GM
Large cavity? I don't really understand...
And why not damp with sheep wool or whatever it is called? Or rockwool which i can get loads of for free?
Feels like measuring the T/S parameters will cost me more than the whole project :S
Just messured were i got my ears, when sitting comfortably in my sofa, 250 cm in front of tweeters and got 90 cm over floor.
Can´t say i hear any differens when i slip down a bit or sit on the table.
But ok, it obviously depends on how tweeter spread vertical and these speakers are made for near-field listening.
Can´t say i hear any differens when i slip down a bit or sit on the table.
But ok, it obviously depends on how tweeter spread vertical and these speakers are made for near-field listening.
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Don´t kill the vent with to much filling, just normal amount of Isover, but on the right places.Large cavity? I don't really understand...
And why not damp with sheep wool or whatever it is called? Or rockwool which i can get loads of for free?

Far away from speaker and far away from vent opening.
Large cavity? I don't really understand...
And why not damp with sheep wool or whatever it is called? Or rockwool which i can get loads of for free?
You said you wanted it tall, but you can't make it tall with only 50 L, so this means a blocked off empty space unless tall legs are used, so this cavity must be damped until it doesn't resonate. Rock wool will work if enough is packed in.
GM
Far away from speaker and far away from vent opening.
I wasn't referring to the speaker cavity which as you say should only be lightly damped. I normally recommend lining one side, back and wall furthest from the vent (usually the top, closest to the driver).
GM
You said you wanted it tall, but you can't make it tall with only 50 L
FonkenWoof -- essentially the same footprint as the Mar-Kel -- is certainly tall enuff, and struggled to hit 28 litre. It's depth would need to increase to accomodate a 12" thou (vrs 2x7")
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
dave
&^%$#@! I managed to add a zero converting liters to cm^3, making for a 500 L capacity............
GM
GM
I remember a rule of thumb for vented box, - max 2xVas = 2x27,24 = 54,48 liter. Or 2x1662 cubic inches = 3325 cubic inches = 1,924 cubic foot.
The metric system is so much easier.😉
It´s possible to build towers with vent on top, just behind the EL70, but i have no idea of how it would behave in practice. And don´t forget CG centre of gravity.🙂
The metric system is so much easier.😉
It´s possible to build towers with vent on top, just behind the EL70, but i have no idea of how it would behave in practice. And don´t forget CG centre of gravity.🙂
Uhhm...
I've been re-thinking a little.
Maybe it's possible to have three modules. The RSW-1060's for the deeper bass (but going higher at the beginning) and then something else that takes the mid-bass?
You said that RSW-1060 wouldn't blend good and have much SQ but maybe it would be good for like 20(or 25) to 40/50hz or something and then something else takes like 40/50 to like 200 or something?
But the mid-bass will have to be later in that case, lack of cash you know...
Would that be possible?
I've been re-thinking a little.
Maybe it's possible to have three modules. The RSW-1060's for the deeper bass (but going higher at the beginning) and then something else that takes the mid-bass?
You said that RSW-1060 wouldn't blend good and have much SQ but maybe it would be good for like 20(or 25) to 40/50hz or something and then something else takes like 40/50 to like 200 or something?
But the mid-bass will have to be later in that case, lack of cash you know...
Would that be possible?
EL70 has an xmax of 4,5mm (9mm p-p). I think there should be no problems.
If you don´t get happy with 1060, CSS SDX-10 XBL works fine in the same vented box round 45 liter.🙂
http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS-SDX10-data-140408.pdf
If you don´t get happy with 1060, CSS SDX-10 XBL works fine in the same vented box round 45 liter.🙂
http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS-SDX10-data-140408.pdf
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EL70 has an xmax of 4,5mm (9mm p-p). I think there should be no problems.
If you don´t get happy with 1060, CSS SDX-10 XBL works fine in the same vented box round 45 liter.🙂
http://www.creativesound.ca/pdf/CSS-SDX10-data-140408.pdf
So i can make a 45-50l vented box for RSW-1060 and later just swap the drivers to SDX10?
Exactly, you just have to correct dimensions of venttubes.
Hehe.. now you got something to long for.

Hehe.. now you got something to long for.


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Yeah, maybe. But will the SDX10 match my EL70's better?Exactly, you just have to correct dimensions of venttubes.
Hehe.. now you got something to long for.![]()
I remember a rule of thumb for vented box, - max 2xVas = 2x27,24 = 54,48 liter.
The metric system is so much easier.
Qts governs max Vb or ~150.2 L for this driver based on published specs.
Depends on what you learned in elementary school. I was in my 40s before I had to start including metric in my engineering drawings and for whatever reason I still can't make the mental conversion to catch such a gross typing error that I would never make using the Imperial system.
What surprises/depresses me is that even though there was a Federal edict for the USA to convert to metric decades ago, it's for the most part still not taught to our youngsters in public schools except in a high school Chemistry course, but once out in the world they have little/no use for it in everyday life.
GM
Yeah, maybe. But will the SDX10 match my EL70's better?
Yes. SDX10 is a REALLY nice driver. I have 4 here now for a pair of push-push woofers.
dave
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