I got the new sub today. But it's the silver Proson RSW-1060A and not RSW-1060... I've mailed them about it and we'll see if they take it back or just send me a new real one...
The "A" version is not useful.
If 1060 is finito you can go for 1260, if you have room for 100 liter boxes.
If 1060 is finito you can go for 1260, if you have room for 100 liter boxes.
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Questions might rise: The influence of the TH L12 and L45 numbers given in the picture do not correspond to the layout as shown here above:
Going down to the local library to get the Loudspeaker Cookbook. They were kind to borrow it from another library (i think from Stockholm). Will cost me 10kr (a bit more than 1$) but i can have it for around 3 weeks i think and that's well worth it!
Well, could have it for 11 days. But hopefully i will have enough time to read the transmissionline part of the book...
Well, could have it for 11 days. But hopefully i will have enough time to read the transmissionline part of the book...
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I've been thinking about this.
I could get some particle boards used for making floors if i want. They'll probably be 60cm and i don't know how long but around 200cm i think. If i build all in particle board and the use some varnish it could actually end up looking good. It will look odd with the Mar-Kel70's in birchply and subs in MDF or something like that. Gonna try some different stuff on some spareparts i have and see if i'm able to find something that looks good. I think the sheets are 22mm thick, enough?
I could get some particle boards used for making floors if i want. They'll probably be 60cm and i don't know how long but around 200cm i think. If i build all in particle board and the use some varnish it could actually end up looking good. It will look odd with the Mar-Kel70's in birchply and subs in MDF or something like that. Gonna try some different stuff on some spareparts i have and see if i'm able to find something that looks good. I think the sheets are 22mm thick, enough?
Where do you find this brand's specs? Google only lists this thread, all others are just ads with no specs and these sites have none I could find: Proson Speakers.Com
Proson - Högtalare, Hifi och Hemmabio
TIA,
GM
Right, when I saw your specs I immediately thought of a DTS concept. Looks pretty good down to ~23 Hz in 1pi space/400 W/7.5 mm Xmax in ~62.8 L net, though of course being tuned this far below Fs it will probably need a steep high pass to protect it if told to play any pipe organ or similar:
GM
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Interesting! Wonder why Google didn't show this site? I even searched in the Swedish language also........
GM
True, it was ~ a rhetorical question, but it's so rare that I can't quickly find even obscure information that I was very surprised. Frankly, it's kind of scary how big its database is and how accurately it can sort it out in a tiny fraction of a sec.. I never cease to be amazed at how I can type in a very long, technically descriptive question and get at least one answer that works for me. I've saved literally thousands of $$ on mine and friend's vehicle, electronics repairs just in the last few years.
The downside is a lot of the 'answers' on the net are either conflicting, wrong or may prove downright dangerous to your wallet and/or physical well being if you don't have at least some basic understanding of what you're getting into by going the DIY route.
For example, I almost ruined my old Toyota Tundra's motor due to it running excessively lean following the collective knowledge of several different forums that either specialized in smog emission and/or Toyotas and/or Tundra models in particular; not to mention wasted ~10 days and ~$200 in new parts and extra fuel costs trying to reset the 'check engine' light before I solved the problem with an $8 can of CRC mass airflow sensor spray cleaner. Had I used it at the onset instead of the recommended brake spray cleaner I could have saved almost all that time and $$.
Still, had I taken it to a shop it would have been at least this much and I would have been without transportation for at least several days if not a week plus wouldn't have learned anything, so all things considered, I can't complain.
GM
bjorno's or my sim? I mean you basically just put in dividers like I showed or even just a number of short scraps to mimic a long divider. My sim would best be laid out like the DTS-10 since it has an expanding portion at the closed end like it, so you would have to design your own layout or get someone with more time/willingness than me to do it unless Brian's new Excel folding designer can handle it.
WRT 'difficult', that depends on your woodworking skills, available tools. This guy made a router jig of a similar design's internal baffling and claims to have quickly, easily routed out the two side panels, making assembly quick/easy: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/172025-th-spud.html
GM
Well. The one that was linked earlier. But that box is way to "big" for me. I'd prefer them to not be much bigger than like 40-50cm wide/deep. And hight should preferably be as a speaker stand.
My woodworking skills isn't very much really but my dad is better. He hasen't done much with "furniture making". Rather like building houses and such be he knows more than i do. Way more...
And i think i have all tools needed for this, except a good table-saw that makes it easy to cut straight. But i think i could use some straight piece of wood and clamp it onto the sheet and then use a circular saw (right word?). And i think i've seen a router somewhere around here 😉
I will start reading the Loudspeaker Coobook tonight and hopefully learn something about all those "sims" you guys post.
Btw GM. I'm a little curious about your avatar. What is it supposed to look like?
My woodworking skills isn't very much really but my dad is better. He hasen't done much with "furniture making". Rather like building houses and such be he knows more than i do. Way more...
And i think i have all tools needed for this, except a good table-saw that makes it easy to cut straight. But i think i could use some straight piece of wood and clamp it onto the sheet and then use a circular saw (right word?). And i think i've seen a router somewhere around here 😉
I will start reading the Loudspeaker Coobook tonight and hopefully learn something about all those "sims" you guys post.
Btw GM. I'm a little curious about your avatar. What is it supposed to look like?
OK, bjorno's can be done as a two-fold, but then it will be a tall column. Mine have a very long path-length, so can't be done this way unless you have > 9 ft high ceilings.
Yes, quite a few DIYers either use, or at least started out by using, DIY circular saw cutting guides: Circular Saw cutting guide board
I've never read the LDC, but I doubt you'll learn much from it WRT TLs, horns and nothing about tapped variants unless it's been updated in recent years to conform to the current/correct understanding as opposed to what was in it before MJK released his various docs on the subject, otherwise a waste of time to read that section of it: Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design
It's an Altec A2 cinema/PA double wide truncated front loaded (mid) bass horn with its large rear chamber reflex loaded that dominated the market from the just after WWII until cinema downsizing and other market shifts rendered them obsolete by the late '80s. The panels ('wings') on each side are for bracing its mouth and provide enough baffle area to load it down to ~35 Hz/half space. The HF horn on top is a 300 Hz (18 cell) multi-cell compression horn, a complex construction of many small exponential horns designed to have ~constant directivity (pattern control) through the critical ~500-2500 Hz human speech BW and extend highs to beyond 12 kHz for good musical reproduction:
1945 catalog: New Page 1
A2: http://www.voiceofthetheatre.com/images/vottcatt1945.8.jpg
GM
Yes, quite a few DIYers either use, or at least started out by using, DIY circular saw cutting guides: Circular Saw cutting guide board
I've never read the LDC, but I doubt you'll learn much from it WRT TLs, horns and nothing about tapped variants unless it's been updated in recent years to conform to the current/correct understanding as opposed to what was in it before MJK released his various docs on the subject, otherwise a waste of time to read that section of it: Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design
It's an Altec A2 cinema/PA double wide truncated front loaded (mid) bass horn with its large rear chamber reflex loaded that dominated the market from the just after WWII until cinema downsizing and other market shifts rendered them obsolete by the late '80s. The panels ('wings') on each side are for bracing its mouth and provide enough baffle area to load it down to ~35 Hz/half space. The HF horn on top is a 300 Hz (18 cell) multi-cell compression horn, a complex construction of many small exponential horns designed to have ~constant directivity (pattern control) through the critical ~500-2500 Hz human speech BW and extend highs to beyond 12 kHz for good musical reproduction:
1945 catalog: New Page 1
A2: http://www.voiceofthetheatre.com/images/vottcatt1945.8.jpg
GM
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