A stuck door lock. On a very old, heavy door.
Stuck for so long ago, not sure about what key, May be lost, may be broken, may be confused with another one.
Finally, I guessed the right key, moving up the door with a crowbar, freed the totally jammed lock.
First step done. Lock and door adjustments, on the way.
Now, I am happy, I was desperate over several days.
Stuck for so long ago, not sure about what key, May be lost, may be broken, may be confused with another one.
Finally, I guessed the right key, moving up the door with a crowbar, freed the totally jammed lock.
First step done. Lock and door adjustments, on the way.
Now, I am happy, I was desperate over several days.
A stuck door lock. On a very old, heavy door.
Stuck for so long ago, not sure about what key, May be lost, may be broken, may be confused with another one.
Finally, I guessed the right key, moving up the door with a crowbar, freed the totally jammed lock.
First step done. Lock and door adjustments, on the way.
Now, I am happy, I was desperate over several days.
When I read that, I imagined you not being able to get into the bathroom, and becoming desperate to..... eliminate.
In the coffee theme.
Was gifted a Krups grinder. Friend said it would not grind finely. Pulled it apart to find teeth mostly broken on sprocket that sets grind level - so not only unable to dial level of grind but during operation it would further loosen. So... worked out where it should be for espresso grind and then wedged a screw into the remaining teeth and hot glued in place. Can’t change the grind but at least now grinds fine enough for the moka pot.
Was gifted a Krups grinder. Friend said it would not grind finely. Pulled it apart to find teeth mostly broken on sprocket that sets grind level - so not only unable to dial level of grind but during operation it would further loosen. So... worked out where it should be for espresso grind and then wedged a screw into the remaining teeth and hot glued in place. Can’t change the grind but at least now grinds fine enough for the moka pot.
So I decided to clear my stash of semi-working lenovo laptops. Condensed two X201 to a single working one. The X220 did not connect wireless while LAN cable still worked. So I opened it and replaced the wireless card "Intel Centrino Advanced - N - 6206 WLAN " by the more advanced "Intel Centrino Ultimate - N - 6300 WLAN" - but to no avail. Dmesg reported
IPv6:ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): enp0s25: link is not ready
IPv6:ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlp3s0: link is not ready
At this stage this was no really surprising information. I decided to boot another OS from USB stick and started with Mint19. This was more informative with the lines
"Detected Intel(R) Centrino(R) Ultimate-N 6300 AGN, REV=0x74
reporting RF_KILL (radio disabled)"
Obiously the interface was not totally dead. So I googled the last line, and yes, I am not the first to struggle at this problem. There was a hint to turn on WiFi-switch.
Which WiFi-switch?
The small one on the left side close to the Express Card Slot.
It was set to "off".
IPv6:ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): enp0s25: link is not ready
IPv6:ADDRCONF(NETDEV_UP): wlp3s0: link is not ready
At this stage this was no really surprising information. I decided to boot another OS from USB stick and started with Mint19. This was more informative with the lines
"Detected Intel(R) Centrino(R) Ultimate-N 6300 AGN, REV=0x74
reporting RF_KILL (radio disabled)"
Obiously the interface was not totally dead. So I googled the last line, and yes, I am not the first to struggle at this problem. There was a hint to turn on WiFi-switch.
Which WiFi-switch?
The small one on the left side close to the Express Card Slot.
It was set to "off".
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I have been repairing a kitchen ceiling fixture -- it fell from the ceiling as the threads of the various components are "loose" and require a pipe-adhesive/thread compound to close up the joints. Looks like it's just gonna take some aircraft stainless steel wire to jury rig the thing as the Permatex thread compounds don't seem to hold.
Found this in the street today. An ancient Sharp microwave oven. Very retro.
Smells like a rat has died in the back, but nothing a good clean with a bleachy cloth can't cure. Interestingly has a metal tray with a heating element underneath.
A keeper.
I promised myself not to attempt to repair anything with magnetons or SMPS. Better/safer to buy a new one.
Cool, you scored the model with the optional Dead Rat Warming Tray!...Smells like a rat has died in the back, but nothing a good clean with a bleachy cloth can't cure. Interestingly has a metal tray with a heating element underneath...
What I did not repair...Yet.
A damn heavy old door with the door lock and the fixed part with a 5 millimeter offset.
The door got distorted under its own weight over some 150 years. Damn heavy, made of solid oak plus a cast iron window grid.
I do not see how to do a clean repair.
A damn heavy old door with the door lock and the fixed part with a 5 millimeter offset.
The door got distorted under its own weight over some 150 years. Damn heavy, made of solid oak plus a cast iron window grid.
I do not see how to do a clean repair.
It does't look bent.
It is clear from looking at the top that it is not rectangular anymore.
There is about 1mms play at the hinge side which is fine, there is more than 5mm play at the lock side, that is the why there is a 5mms abnormal offset at the lock.
The door distorted into a parallogram shape under it's own weight.
I wonder whether it could regain it's original shape under pressure of the big crowbar I used to free this blocked door. I fear, this will do more bad, than good onto 150 years old oak wood and good wood assemblies.
As a conservative measure I offset the fixed lock part a couple mm.
That was not just removing two screws, ancients had darn tricks to make it strong and tough. Took me a couple of hours.
It is clear from looking at the top that it is not rectangular anymore.
There is about 1mms play at the hinge side which is fine, there is more than 5mm play at the lock side, that is the why there is a 5mms abnormal offset at the lock.
The door distorted into a parallogram shape under it's own weight.
I wonder whether it could regain it's original shape under pressure of the big crowbar I used to free this blocked door. I fear, this will do more bad, than good onto 150 years old oak wood and good wood assemblies.
As a conservative measure I offset the fixed lock part a couple mm.
That was not just removing two screws, ancients had darn tricks to make it strong and tough. Took me a couple of hours.
I promised myself not to attempt to repair anything with magnetons or SMPS. Better/safer to buy a new one.
Scaredy cat!
The common microwave is a simple affair.
The magnatron, fan, some microswitches, a diode, and a HV cap.
And of course the control module/display board.
I've even "modded" my Sharp Carousel...
1) Replaced the burned-out "wired in" cavity illumination bulb with one that uses a two-pin bayonet socket.
2) Added a rubber "bumper" to the rear so it sits against the wall better, and allows good airflow.
3) Added another microswitch so that when the door opens the light comes on.
(it was only on during cooking)
4) Added LED edge lighting to the LCD display so I can see it better.
I think we are kindred spirits wiseoldtech!
Turns out this over-engineered lump is a Sharp R-874 Microwave.
Sharp R-874-WHITE Combination Oven - Buy from Sound and Vision
Solid non-rust Nickel-Chrome alloy case. Dubiously unremovable interior lights.
Cooks Pizza and Breakfast. WOW!
Further investigations reveal blocked rear vents after the exhaust fan, doubtless causing the DEAD RAT smell which caused it to be cast out, unloved, on the Street.
Dire warnings not to remove the covers, exposing yourself to High-Voltage and Microwave radiation. Never put me off having a go! Life is short, break some rules.
Turns out this over-engineered lump is a Sharp R-874 Microwave.
Sharp R-874-WHITE Combination Oven - Buy from Sound and Vision
Solid non-rust Nickel-Chrome alloy case. Dubiously unremovable interior lights.
Cooks Pizza and Breakfast. WOW!
Further investigations reveal blocked rear vents after the exhaust fan, doubtless causing the DEAD RAT smell which caused it to be cast out, unloved, on the Street.
Dire warnings not to remove the covers, exposing yourself to High-Voltage and Microwave radiation. Never put me off having a go! Life is short, break some rules.
Attachments
Be careful. More people are killed by trying to fix a microwave oven than all other appliances added together.
The power supply is actually a voltage doubler with the magnetron itself acting as the second diode. The plate of the tube is grounded and the cathode and heater run at a high negative voltage, somewhere around 5000 volts. The current capability is in the hundreds of mA, so you don't get a second chance if you screw up.
The supply is far from pure DC. The transformer / cap combination form a series resonant circuit that gets detuned when the magnetron is overloaded. This prevents blown parts and melted tubes if the oven is operated with nothing inside. Sticking in the wrong value cap will mess up the tuning resulting in poor performance, or dead parts.
The power supply is actually a voltage doubler with the magnetron itself acting as the second diode. The plate of the tube is grounded and the cathode and heater run at a high negative voltage, somewhere around 5000 volts. The current capability is in the hundreds of mA, so you don't get a second chance if you screw up.
The supply is far from pure DC. The transformer / cap combination form a series resonant circuit that gets detuned when the magnetron is overloaded. This prevents blown parts and melted tubes if the oven is operated with nothing inside. Sticking in the wrong value cap will mess up the tuning resulting in poor performance, or dead parts.
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