Round 17 cm.
I want to buy new; I do notre expect drivers in good shape from car junk yards.
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round 17 cm car speakers
$15 and up for a pair, Blaupunkt $20..
.https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjl7fO4j-2BAxXigmYCHSIwAYIYABAKGgJzbQ&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5e3zuI_tgQMV4oJmAh0iMAGCEAQYAyABEgKtZvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASJORo5xjUsy1mReboBC5u6MbNEGLvsZEqCFQZJ_dDixmwToriwg&sig=AOD64_3EsvPp0P1R6XIcQHTO-TSppxLRpg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjVxO64j-2BAxWxS2wGHTE1CXUQ9aACKAB6BAgEEB0&adurl=
round 17 cm car speakers
$15 and up for a pair, Blaupunkt $20..
.https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjl7fO4j-2BAxXigmYCHSIwAYIYABAKGgJzbQ&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5e3zuI_tgQMV4oJmAh0iMAGCEAQYAyABEgKtZvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASJORo5xjUsy1mReboBC5u6MbNEGLvsZEqCFQZJ_dDixmwToriwg&sig=AOD64_3EsvPp0P1R6XIcQHTO-TSppxLRpg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwjVxO64j-2BAxWxS2wGHTE1CXUQ9aACKAB6BAgEEB0&adurl=
I just replaced the tip of my Weller 150 W soldering iron this repair was harder
than the time I fixed an Audio Research D76A that involved removing the lose
nut that had caused a short but somehow nothing had been hurt .
than the time I fixed an Audio Research D76A that involved removing the lose
nut that had caused a short but somehow nothing had been hurt .
I replaced the total rubbish in my Peugeot (Goodmans) with the cheapest Focal Auditor component speakers (woofer/tweeter/crossover) and they are excellent. The sound is much better than expected, but I added a small Sony power amp as well. I'd recommend anything with plastic cones rather than the standard paper.
(We've had have a few French cars in our family; I remember my son's Renault's speakers turning to dust too).
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Yeah, UV will just destroy regular paper cones. No point in using them for replacements if you will just end up doing it again.
Car speakers are not so hi fi, compared to home units, have to stand heat and UV.
Buy with plastic ones, or at least black cones.
See if you can put black fabric paint as additional protection, dilute it a bit, apply a thin layer. You can add sparkling bits of glitter to the paint for decoration....
Just buy adequate units, and on the cheap side.
Here in India, many famous names get their material made outside, and those no name speakers are usually decent.
Buy with plastic ones, or at least black cones.
See if you can put black fabric paint as additional protection, dilute it a bit, apply a thin layer. You can add sparkling bits of glitter to the paint for decoration....
Just buy adequate units, and on the cheap side.
Here in India, many famous names get their material made outside, and those no name speakers are usually decent.
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Very lucky, it could have been much worse.
There was a problem with the spacers from the bottom cover to the supply pcb.
They would get loose, or even not reinstalled at all after biasing.
Not a good design.
No it was not a poor design what hapened was one of the nuts holding the output transformer
worked lose and when the amp was moved when replacing the output tubes that lose nut ended
up on the circuite board.
worked lose and when the amp was moved when replacing the output tubes that lose nut ended
up on the circuite board.
I've certainly never seen that happen on any of their amplifiers.
Design would not be a factor for that sort of problem.
Design would not be a factor for that sort of problem.
Put a thread lock on the nuts.
Contact cement and wood glue are emergency use items, they work.
Spring washers, thread lock adhesive, self locking nuts and lock nuts are proper solutions.
Try to invert the fasteners, if possible, so the nuts are on top, if they work loose, which is peculiar really, they will not fall down.
Though the screws will.
I have used the above glues, they work in vibration situations, is the transformer humming or vibrating?
Add some varnish to the thing, many posts about that here.
Contact cement and wood glue are emergency use items, they work.
Spring washers, thread lock adhesive, self locking nuts and lock nuts are proper solutions.
Try to invert the fasteners, if possible, so the nuts are on top, if they work loose, which is peculiar really, they will not fall down.
Though the screws will.
I have used the above glues, they work in vibration situations, is the transformer humming or vibrating?
Add some varnish to the thing, many posts about that here.
Fixed my Heathkit, dual-trace, 5 MHz ‘scope that I built from a kit in 1978. It wouldn’t trigger at all, and I finally traced the problem to the +/- trigger switch. It seems the cheap sliding switch’s contacts became oxidized. A little dab of WD40 solved that (perhaps not the best solvent for the task, but it’s what I had on-hand). Would have never guessed I could fix a ‘scope with WD40! This is the first repair it’s ever needed, not bad for a cheap ‘scope now 45 years old.
Reminds me of the one I built around that time. The Practical Wireless 'Purbeck' with a 3BP1 surplus radar tube. It gave many many hours good service until I progressed to bigger and better things. I think it was around 5Mhz like yours.
Being an extremely competent Chemist, having scored a Merit in the special paper, I beware Explosions in my Laboratory.
Thus it was that Maria was banging on my door:
"Steve", quoth she, "the Dryer is making unusual noises."
I quickly assessed the situation. Lot of smoke. Drum not rotating. Heater glowing red and menacingly. I quickly disconnected the Electric and removed all nearby inflammable materials.
Being unqualified as a working Electrician, all I could do was affix some warning notices and advise Maria to call in the Landlord.
Landlord was unable to fix it either. Looks like we must buy a new one.
At least nobody was hurt. I am a good man in a crisis. Only question remains: "Who designed this Incendiary Machine?"
Not me, that's for sure. 😎
Thus it was that Maria was banging on my door:
"Steve", quoth she, "the Dryer is making unusual noises."
I quickly assessed the situation. Lot of smoke. Drum not rotating. Heater glowing red and menacingly. I quickly disconnected the Electric and removed all nearby inflammable materials.
Being unqualified as a working Electrician, all I could do was affix some warning notices and advise Maria to call in the Landlord.
Landlord was unable to fix it either. Looks like we must buy a new one.
At least nobody was hurt. I am a good man in a crisis. Only question remains: "Who designed this Incendiary Machine?"
Not me, that's for sure. 😎
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IIRC, the motor which rotates the drum also drives a fan which pulls air over those coils, across the clothes, through the lint filter and out the exhaust. Combining the fan airflow function with that of rotating the drum makes sense in economy of design.
The motor is dead or seized up. One would think it'd be replaceable. Or repairable, if you can get it to turn again and perhaps add a little lube to the bearings. A miserable lot in a life of service, those dryer motors; hot, dirty - nobody cares for your condition and the expectation is that you work basically forever! Well, sometimes they doth protesteth and say "forget it - no more!".
Machines of era 2005 to 2015 are known fire risk - excess fluff can come into contact with the heating element and present a risk of fire. The affected brands are Hotpoint, Indesit, Whirlpool and Creda!
There have been recalls -
"As part of a safety review, two types of tumble dryers been have identified as having a potential issue. Tumble dryers manufactured between April 2004 and September 2015 have been identified as being at risk.
More than 600 models of vented and condenser tumble dryers are affected, you can look up that unit's serial number and see.
My mum had the model directly after 2015, had some mods. Never trusted it!
There have been recalls -
"As part of a safety review, two types of tumble dryers been have identified as having a potential issue. Tumble dryers manufactured between April 2004 and September 2015 have been identified as being at risk.
More than 600 models of vented and condenser tumble dryers are affected, you can look up that unit's serial number and see.
My mum had the model directly after 2015, had some mods. Never trusted it!
@Speedysteve7 and @jjasniew. Good info there. Thank you. It is one of the affected dryers, but later manufacture it seems. TCM07580BP (UK)
Can't be more than three years old. And has a green sticker. Landlord is ordering a new motor.
Of course, everybody overloads the laundry machines. They often break down.
Can't be more than three years old. And has a green sticker. Landlord is ordering a new motor.
Of course, everybody overloads the laundry machines. They often break down.
Our dryer has operated for years. We actually inherited it. Lives in the garage.
Lint filter gets cleaned and that's it.
Broke down once. Mechanical timer switch. Charred contact, cleaned with emery, good as new.
Which reminds me.
Last repair.
Wiper motor.
One flick wipe would do around 5 wipes. Parked in random position.
Wiper mechanism out.
Cover removed from gearbox.
Dulled brass on the park commutator.
Bit of emery and good as new.
Only surprise, I expected a nearly complete ring of brass with a gap at the park position.
It was actually opposite - small patch of brass in the park position so it must send a signal to the control electrics rather than directly passing current to the motor.
Lint filter gets cleaned and that's it.
Broke down once. Mechanical timer switch. Charred contact, cleaned with emery, good as new.
Which reminds me.
Last repair.
Wiper motor.
One flick wipe would do around 5 wipes. Parked in random position.
Wiper mechanism out.
Cover removed from gearbox.
Dulled brass on the park commutator.
Bit of emery and good as new.
Only surprise, I expected a nearly complete ring of brass with a gap at the park position.
It was actually opposite - small patch of brass in the park position so it must send a signal to the control electrics rather than directly passing current to the motor.
The dryer at our rental house is the same one supplied by the builder in 1997 AFAIK. I've never had to lift a finger to repair anything on it since I purchased the house 21 years ago. It is a low end "builder spec" model of Roper brand.
Working on an AF Nikkor f/1.8 50mm that I acquired attached to Nikon AF film camera for $12 "as is". I gave away the camera body as that is not what I wanted. Sure enough, the lens is the problem, sticky aperture. I got it better by putting it in manual and working the rear lever, but it is only about 95% reliable from the lever, and much lower than from the aperture ring. I think it is probably better to keep it as a donor for a DIY lens mod than trying to go deeper for a fix.
Working on an AF Nikkor f/1.8 50mm that I acquired attached to Nikon AF film camera for $12 "as is". I gave away the camera body as that is not what I wanted. Sure enough, the lens is the problem, sticky aperture. I got it better by putting it in manual and working the rear lever, but it is only about 95% reliable from the lever, and much lower than from the aperture ring. I think it is probably better to keep it as a donor for a DIY lens mod than trying to go deeper for a fix.