What did you last repair?

Chevy Captiva A/c sensor failed, bonded to dash...dealer said new dash needed, quite a large amount.
My sister sold the car, and I told her later she simply could have cut the wires, and put another sensor.
She was not happy with it, dealer gave up after warranty, no parts available, she had a suspicion garage people changed the rear lower arms to put in their car, and said sorry, you need new ones.

But this in a Toyota, famous for ease of assembly, is a bit surprising.
How many kilometers for this to be needed?
 
316K miles or about 508662 KM on those Toyota shocks. The front passenger side was bleeding oil and I knew it was not doing the job.
I have to give Toyota a pass on the funny strut mount location. It is a mid-engine AWD vehicle so I should expect some funny stuff.
I have drifted through quite a few icy/slushy turns with that van. Handles in a lovely way also with a Toyota pickup truck trailer.
 
Onkyo Bluray player with drawer issues where it pops out about 10mm and then closes which only happens at startup. Did all the usual belt and lube but not successful and as it's worth more to repair than what the players worth, so added a handle to the drawer to pull the drawer open and drawer then works normally for that session.

History https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/onkyo-bd-sp353-drawer.390765/
 
I designed a model railway points position indicator.
I noticed today its a little unreliable.
Didn't always detect power being supplied to points coil.
So had to rewrite software to read signal with debounce when power is turned off.
Works great now.

It gets a little complicated because as one coil is unpowered it induces a signal in other coil and can cause false triggering.
I made the software ignore the other input for 30mS which fixed it.
 
Put in a new kitchen sink for the 1st time in quite a while. Redid all the plumbing underneath while at it because it was quite old and the ABS had become brittle.

I was quite surprised by how many things have changed for the better. Basket strainer seals by gasket and not putty. Basket strainer is mostly plastic. Tailpiece not needed, new ABS union fitting threads directly to basket strainer. P-trap has a spherical sealing surface and not conical. Some might lament how the lack of tailpiece means fittings have to be precise in all 3 dimensions. Having struggled many a time fighting to get an old tailpiece to seal, I see nothing but improvement.
 
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There is C-PVC here, but it is only in newer construction than my house, which is roughly 20 years old. I never do work significant enough that transitioning to a different material makes sense, with the exception of my previous, now rental, home that has PB so all repair work is in PEX. Unlike the US, PB is still acceptable here and covered by insurers.
 
Not a repair but more of an addition to some software.
I have some pcb design software I wrote myself.
I wanted to get JLCPCB to populate some pcb's.
However they need a CSV bill of materials file and CSV pick place file.
I do output a Panasonic pick and place file but they didnt want that.
So generated the files in software.
I already had some BOM and pick place routines so just copied and altered them to do the new jobs.
Got a bit confused by openoffice which wasnt interpreting CSV files correctly.
So I downloaded a CSV file reader and my code works fine with that.
 
Strange - I use openoffice csv quite often ; any example of a "broken" csv?
If I have one,two,three,four
It puts one,two,three in the first box and the four in the second box.
Ron's CSV editor does it right.

I had another look at open office and it has set delimiters to be comma and space so explains why my string didnt work.
 
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Added some pan head stainless steel screws to the rack support ridges on the inside of our oven. The walls have bowed out after 4years of use (bullish!t) and the oven racks would fall down if you tried to cook something heavy like a roast turkey or large roast beef

The repair hasn’t failed yet 🤞.
 
Been working on a dual channel USB PC oscilloscope.
To keep things easier i have tried to use either through hole or SMD min 1.27mm pitch a2d converters.
Then rather than use two a2d I used one and a CD74hc4051 multiplexor.
Got one built up and tried it out.
Just rubbish on the screen.
So went back to basic and padded out all the software that read the a2d.
Got something working but incredibly slow.
Looked up spec for cd74hc4051 and its a bit too slow switching channels.
It seems after looking around I need the faster 74HCT4051, so bought a couple off ebay.
Now just waiting for them to arrive.
 
Apologies for repeating a post over in instruments & amps but my question has general application.
I am repairing a guitar amp with multiple intermittent faults.

T'web says this is likely due to being an early use of lead free solder, prone to failure & to reflow all joints .
Is this good advice?
Are there usually any visible signs of a failed joint?
Should I just go round with an iron & reflow regardless of appearance?

Thanks.
 
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Added some pan head stainless steel screws to the rack support ridges on the inside of our oven. The walls have bowed out after 4years of use (bullish!t) and the oven racks would fall down if you tried to cook something heavy like a roast turkey or large roast beef
Is this a wall oven, or a range? Make & model please.

jeff