Oh!(?) I bought the switch used so it came without all the little installation bits like the short cable.
Attachments
That looks good. Short cables can be difficult to make as the inner insulator and wire tend to move around without too much pressure applied.
-Chris
-Chris
Indeed. Dress and terminate one end, then the other.
The crimper works so well I think I will buy some RCA connectors and make some composite video and S/PDIF cables.
The crimper works so well I think I will buy some RCA connectors and make some composite video and S/PDIF cables.
Good idea.
My SPDIF cables were RG-58cu with soldered on RCA connectors. They work really well.
-Chris
My SPDIF cables were RG-58cu with soldered on RCA connectors. They work really well.
-Chris
Interesting discussion about recapping. I suppose I bought into the hype, thinking that all vintage gear needed a recap. I did a few recaps, mostly vintage tube and old SS amps. Gotta say it didn't make much, if any, difference. There were a few where the caps (even ceramic) were obviously bad and the problem was fixed.
My limited experienced has been that if there aren't any problems, recapping doesn't do a thing. I always hoped it would, but it didn't.
My limited experienced has been that if there aren't any problems, recapping doesn't do a thing. I always hoped it would, but it didn't.
Interesting discussion about recapping. I suppose I bought into the hype, thinking that all vintage gear needed a recap. I did a few recaps, mostly vintage tube and old SS amps. Gotta say it didn't make much, if any, difference. There were a few where the caps (even ceramic) were obviously bad and the problem was fixed.
My limited experienced has been that if there aren't any problems, recapping doesn't do a thing. I always hoped it would, but it didn't.
That's the trouble with the internet......
People get on there and believe everything they read/see.
They've got no way to justify "the hype" compared to "real world" situations.
Even those YouBoob videos are potentially misleading.
Hi Pano,
Recapping only helps when it fixes problems. We do have better capacitors these days, but it is the application that determines what - if any, changes occur. We do have some better capacitor types for specific places in an amplifier, so that is a valid reason to replace those capacitors. But there are good ceramic capacitors. Normally the ones with a black stripe on the top surface are the good type (NP0 / C0G). May as well leave those because it is easy to install a worse performing capacitor.
Some brands used pretty poor capacitors (Pioneer & others) who I won't name ... doing a recap on those can really boost performance. 🙂
Lower value electrolytic capacitors are the most likely ones that need replacement. When installing new capacitors, it is important not to bend the leads where they go through the rubber seal like everyone does. Did I say seal? Why, yes I did. Spreading the leads apart can rip the bond between the lead and seal, or ti can happen in the future just sitting there. So when you bend the leads, hold the lead between the bend and capacitor body. This takes time, which is exactly why most capacitor cowboys will not do it. It is unfortunate that most technicians have never been taught this either. So, the rule is, always form the leads to fit the holes, and always support the lead between the bend and capacitor body. Simple.
-Chris
Recapping only helps when it fixes problems. We do have better capacitors these days, but it is the application that determines what - if any, changes occur. We do have some better capacitor types for specific places in an amplifier, so that is a valid reason to replace those capacitors. But there are good ceramic capacitors. Normally the ones with a black stripe on the top surface are the good type (NP0 / C0G). May as well leave those because it is easy to install a worse performing capacitor.
Some brands used pretty poor capacitors (Pioneer & others) who I won't name ... doing a recap on those can really boost performance. 🙂
Lower value electrolytic capacitors are the most likely ones that need replacement. When installing new capacitors, it is important not to bend the leads where they go through the rubber seal like everyone does. Did I say seal? Why, yes I did. Spreading the leads apart can rip the bond between the lead and seal, or ti can happen in the future just sitting there. So when you bend the leads, hold the lead between the bend and capacitor body. This takes time, which is exactly why most capacitor cowboys will not do it. It is unfortunate that most technicians have never been taught this either. So, the rule is, always form the leads to fit the holes, and always support the lead between the bend and capacitor body. Simple.
-Chris
Time stamps on your recent two posts does suggest an extended accidental visit. Hey, most of us have been there once. 😉
Wow, I really like youboob!
I wonder what happens if you punch in youkitty...
... be right back
I wonder what happens if you punch in youkitty...
... be right back
Nah, at my age I probably just dozed off for awhile... 🙄
(I'm really more of a YouLeg man anyway.)
Oh but hey! After weeks (months?) of half-hearted screwing around, I finally switched from the no-longer-developed MPC-HC (Media Player Classic Home Cinema) to the apparently-still-breathing MPC-BE, and now my PC plays UHD (4K) video with proper color saturation! Does that count as a repair??
No?
<ahem> Okay, I'll just be over here then.
Perhaps there's something in the air up there in Canuck-Land.
Actually, it’s the water - with which Cal has been rumoured to wash out his cocktail and beer glasses. Never seen him drink a glass, though... hmmm 😉
SAE Preamp Mark IM
Noisy controls and switches, no biggie. Up next, a Bryston 4B (yuck!)
-Chris
Noisy controls and switches, no biggie. Up next, a Bryston 4B (yuck!)
-Chris
32" TV from our caravan.
No sign of life.
Checked 5V standby power was working.
Found power schematic online so sussed which pin activated power supply - all voltages correct.
Ribbon cable socket had lifted a couple of pins from the switch pcb (standby switch & ground).
Resoldered & now seems to work ok.
With my limited knowledge, anything more complicated I couldn't have fixed it.
No sign of life.
Checked 5V standby power was working.
Found power schematic online so sussed which pin activated power supply - all voltages correct.
Ribbon cable socket had lifted a couple of pins from the switch pcb (standby switch & ground).
Resoldered & now seems to work ok.
With my limited knowledge, anything more complicated I couldn't have fixed it.