If there’s no “R” or “M” in the value place, the Dales are three digit plus multiplier. So as you suspect, 100K is 1003, 100+ three zeroes.
Boom Shakka Lakka! 2 picoDumbs.. Nailed it! Although I evidently didn't order the 100k resistors, my 13 year olds arduino kit came in to the rescue (temporarily until the real ones get here).. Sounds amazing! More volume than I can listen to now!
pFarrell.. Thank you for all of your help with this project.. (Although we are not done yet!).. Patrick has been answering questions from me like "What's this big blue box on the back of the board do?".. Appreciate your patience!
Thanks to all the pros watching these threads and offering your time and expertise!
john
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I like to DMM test my resistors before they are put on PCB.
By the way I had an interesting pre-amp test session a while ago using M2X as power amp. We were two "hifi-freaks" listening to Korg, Staving Student II and Whammy. They all sounded very good but conclusion was that Whammy came out on top which was for me a big surprise. My Whammy is with Burson V6 Classic op-amp. My M2X's is with Norwood input boards.
By the way I had an interesting pre-amp test session a while ago using M2X as power amp. We were two "hifi-freaks" listening to Korg, Staving Student II and Whammy. They all sounded very good but conclusion was that Whammy came out on top which was for me a big surprise. My Whammy is with Burson V6 Classic op-amp. My M2X's is with Norwood input boards.
A very handy practice to help weed out the incorrectly marked resistors, I've had a few in the past - both banded and printed types.
Finished!!!
Hi just a quick post, Sooo My version of the Whammy is 18V trans, Dale , Nichicon, 3n30/3p20 fets, and OPA2134 to start with, V6 vivid on order, Tried the Clarity caps but decided on Mundorf caps, Mogami audio cable. I already have studio quality headphone amps in my studio but after listening to a PSP H/P amp I thought I could do better, so after much playing around with Chinese PCB's (none impressed me) I found the Whammy and bought the Very impressive PCB from the states, it did not take long to build at all (I think the board was beautiful to work on), and it came out like this (pictures Below). first I'm blown away by how quiet it is, no hums no hiss in fact very well behaved and luke warm components. The sound is very dynamic (headroom is impressive), clear, broad, and according to my oscilloscope V low THD, FFT showed a little second harmonic. So all in all 'I bloody love this little amp' and is going in the studio for personal vocalists to use. and for home when I can pinch it. Thank you guys for putting so much energy into this build and may you do more in the future. P.s I didn't bother with the safety cap on the input to earth, Should I?
Hi just a quick post, Sooo My version of the Whammy is 18V trans, Dale , Nichicon, 3n30/3p20 fets, and OPA2134 to start with, V6 vivid on order, Tried the Clarity caps but decided on Mundorf caps, Mogami audio cable. I already have studio quality headphone amps in my studio but after listening to a PSP H/P amp I thought I could do better, so after much playing around with Chinese PCB's (none impressed me) I found the Whammy and bought the Very impressive PCB from the states, it did not take long to build at all (I think the board was beautiful to work on), and it came out like this (pictures Below). first I'm blown away by how quiet it is, no hums no hiss in fact very well behaved and luke warm components. The sound is very dynamic (headroom is impressive), clear, broad, and according to my oscilloscope V low THD, FFT showed a little second harmonic. So all in all 'I bloody love this little amp' and is going in the studio for personal vocalists to use. and for home when I can pinch it. Thank you guys for putting so much energy into this build and may you do more in the future. P.s I didn't bother with the safety cap on the input to earth, Should I?
Attachments
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