Hi. 2sk209gr is interesting part.It has about 10dB more H2 but has less H3 than 2sk170bl.Maybe it sounds better than 2sk170 because of more H2 adds warmth to sound and H3 is lower so sound may be nicer? Anyone compared them and could tell about sound? I have reel of 3000pcs of 2sk209gr.Did not have a spare time to play with them yet but i want to try them a lot.
Build the project and try it!
I don't know if anybody has used the K170 in this project. It will work, but the K209 is more widely available and costs much less.
In what circuit at what operation point?
I don't know if anybody has used the K170 in this project. It will work, but the K209 is more widely available and costs much less.
In what circuit at what operation point?
CineMag CMOQ-4HPC
Back in august, I ordered a pair of CineMag CMOQ-4HPC HighNickel for my BA-18 to try run it with my long-becoming F4.
My supplier, Don-Audio, just had to tell me they don't know if CineMag will be able to deliver them at all—or at least in the foreseeable future.
I on the other hand would like to get along with the build, and would be fine with an alternative. But what would be a suitable one?
Has somebody a good alternative (part-number) at hands?
I'm sorry, but output-transformer are an obscure science to me (being a greenhorn soldermonkey
), I am overwhelmed by it and not capable of getting it on my own...
so, TIA
all the best
david
Back in august, I ordered a pair of CineMag CMOQ-4HPC HighNickel for my BA-18 to try run it with my long-becoming F4.
My supplier, Don-Audio, just had to tell me they don't know if CineMag will be able to deliver them at all—or at least in the foreseeable future.
I on the other hand would like to get along with the build, and would be fine with an alternative. But what would be a suitable one?
Has somebody a good alternative (part-number) at hands?
I'm sorry, but output-transformer are an obscure science to me (being a greenhorn soldermonkey
), I am overwhelmed by it and not capable of getting it on my own...so, TIA
all the best
david
using BA2018 as a Bal to SE converter
I am planning to use a spare BA 2018 board as an input converter and balance control for a pro DAC...changing the resistor values I can understand but my limited Electronic knowledge is struggling with what " lifting the ground of R17 " means !! The subsequent diagram doesnt help either. I know its a dumb question.....vut as 6L6 says " there are no dumb questions
Any illumination gratefully received....
I am planning to use a spare BA 2018 board as an input converter and balance control for a pro DAC...changing the resistor values I can understand but my limited Electronic knowledge is struggling with what " lifting the ground of R17 " means !! The subsequent diagram doesnt help either. I know its a dumb question.....vut as 6L6 says " there are no dumb questions
Any illumination gratefully received....
Yes, but which one?
I'm looking @ JT-123-BMCF and JT-11-BMCF ...
JT-123 is quadfilar, but has different values.
JT-11 has similar values, but is bifilar...
quadfilar is said to perform, erm, "better" at highs. No idea what else there is.
And then, then's Lundahl and Sowter (PULTEC EPQ1A) and all sound good. So they say.
argh. 😕
Same as F6 or Iron pre. I believe its the one with 123 in its number you listed.
A few posts back I asked another member about his use of that transformer as well as the one you tried to order. He showed hookup for both.
Russellc
A few posts back I asked another member about his use of that transformer as well as the one you tried to order. He showed hookup for both.
Russellc
Aaah, yes! Thank you, russelc!
The 123 is the quadfilar.
Next will be to figure out what value does what ... generally speaking
The 123 is the quadfilar.
Next will be to figure out what value does what ... generally speaking
It's a beast of an article (at least for me), but I have this as a reference. As I progress along, I go back to it every now and again. Slowly, I start to understand a bit more each time. I'd point to the original thread I found it in, but for some reason I didn't reference it in my notes. Hope it helps.
https://www.jensen-transformers.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Audio-Transformers-Chapter.pdf
Edited to add - there is a specific section on measurements and data sheets you may find particularly helpful.
https://www.jensen-transformers.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Audio-Transformers-Chapter.pdf
Edited to add - there is a specific section on measurements and data sheets you may find particularly helpful.
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if you want to put iron in front of line stage, to serve as bal/unbal converter, think of fact that you're dealing here with line level impedances and voltage levels
for that scenario, using 10K nominally xformers is wiser than using repeaters ( 150R and 600R jobbies)
reason why Pa used repeaters in his constructions is that he wanted gain from them - even if buffer is necessary to drive 150R winding, Rout is still low enough to feed OS ( in practically all his amps with autoformer in FE)
conclusion - use xformers declared 10K (both primaries and secondaries, in arrangements which suits you)
for that scenario, using 10K nominally xformers is wiser than using repeaters ( 150R and 600R jobbies)
reason why Pa used repeaters in his constructions is that he wanted gain from them - even if buffer is necessary to drive 150R winding, Rout is still low enough to feed OS ( in practically all his amps with autoformer in FE)
conclusion - use xformers declared 10K (both primaries and secondaries, in arrangements which suits you)
Yes
(And a lot to digest and find the knowledge hidden behind)
A beast it is indeed [emoji83]
I just had a peek at it before the urgent impulse to get some fresh air became overwhelming 🙂
Articles like these tend to chase me off at first, but then I have to try again and again to at least get a slight feeling of understanding. Oftentimes the information settles, giving me a much better feeling of what „something“ could be/mean...
Homer Simpson Mmmm Something - YouTube
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Stepping back a bit, what exactly are you trying to accomplish? I may have missed it earlier. You mentioned driving the F4. Are you simply looking to add gain? If I recall, you had pretty efficient speakers. Do you need additional gain? There's a lot of posts re: the F4 'needing' a high voltage output pre-amp. That's in order to drive the amp to clipping. Mine is perfectly happy with a phone input and will reach volumes that are comfortable for listening. Substituting a 'normal source' and a 'low gain' pre-amp like my Iron-Pre configured for only 6dB of gain, it is MORE than sufficient to get to volumes I need with my speakers in my room. I'd get your F4s built and then decide what you may need to drive them. My < $0.02.
To be more helpful with potential solutions... If you're only looking for gain, you could consider Mark's comment in post #1233. It would be far simpler.
Are you looking for SE to Bal conversion and not building the balanced version of this project?
In addition - From ZMs post re: 10k nominal: A choice like the JT-11P-1HPC may be something to consider. I have these and will be using them (as specified by Tom C - I cannot take credit) in the front end of a couple amps. In the amps they're already in, which Tom built, they work very well as part of the differential input stage.
As always, take any of my comments with a pile of salt. I could be off on another planet.
To be more helpful with potential solutions... If you're only looking for gain, you could consider Mark's comment in post #1233. It would be far simpler.
Are you looking for SE to Bal conversion and not building the balanced version of this project?
In addition - From ZMs post re: 10k nominal: A choice like the JT-11P-1HPC may be something to consider. I have these and will be using them (as specified by Tom C - I cannot take credit) in the front end of a couple amps. In the amps they're already in, which Tom built, they work very well as part of the differential input stage.
As always, take any of my comments with a pile of salt. I could be off on another planet.
I can attest it works with 20dB gain very well, I actually dropped it back down to about 12dB gain.
Stepping back a bit, what exactly are you trying to accomplish? I may have missed it earlier. You mentioned driving the F4. Are you simply looking to add gain? If I recall, you had pretty efficient speakers. Do you need additional gain? There's a lot of posts re: the F4 'needing' a high voltage output pre-amp. That's in order to drive the amp to clipping. Mine is perfectly happy with a phone input and will reach volumes that are comfortable for listening. Substituting a 'normal source' and a 'low gain' pre-amp like my Iron-Pre configured for only 6dB of gain, it is MORE than sufficient to get to volumes I need with my speakers in my room. I'd get your F4s built and then decide what you may need to drive them. My < $0.02.
To be more helpful with potential solutions... If you're only looking for gain, you could consider Mark's comment in post #1233. It would be far simpler.
Are you looking for SE to Bal conversion and not building the balanced version of this project?
In addition - From ZMs post re: 10k nominal: A choice like the JT-11P-1HPC may be something to consider. I have these and will be using them (as specified by Tom C - I cannot take credit) in the front end of a couple amps. In the amps they're already in, which Tom built, they work very well as part of the differential input stage.
As always, take any of my comments with a pile of salt. I could be off on another planet.
I may have misinterpreted but I thought he was tring to replicate what William2001 did, tagging the transformer on the outputs for an extra 6 dB of gain.
Yes, it (gain) can be altered in other ways, but some want to experiment with "Iron gain".....well, extra iron gain I guess. Plus there they are if you later pirate them for Iron pre!
Russellc
If I remember, I had difficulty finding the appropriate transformer on the Jenson site, and someone put up a link to a site that sold them.
Make sure the one you listed with the "123" is the correct one, the letters coming after the 123 part are different. You want same model as store lists in the F6 kit.
Russellc
Make sure the one you listed with the "123" is the correct one, the letters coming after the 123 part are different. You want same model as store lists in the F6 kit.
Russellc
AHA! I thought that may be one of the scenarios. Thanks. Clearly I did not read enough to get the full context.
Myleftear - at least you have a bit of (potentially useless) other info to chew on re: how to get the gain you seek. Iron in the chain is always fun to experiment with.
Myleftear - at least you have a bit of (potentially useless) other info to chew on re: how to get the gain you seek. Iron in the chain is always fun to experiment with.