I'm sure there will be other recommendations...Not sure about "definitive recommendation" seeing this is all DIY, but...
Here's what I used (thanks 6L6):
DIY PCB - Bipolar (opamp) power supply | eBay
BOM at the bottom of this page:
LR Phono Preamp
Worked out perfect. Not too $$ to build. Has a fuse onboard—intelligent power switch setup—simple to add a power LED. Could have easily gotten 24VDC+/- out of it with resistor tweaks (R4, R6—values will not match due to circuit design). As is I tweaked it to around 18VDC +/-. It also fits in a 1U as speced in BOM as long as you use 1" heatsinks on the regulators.
513002B02500G Aavid, Thermal Division of Boyd Corporation | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey
See posts #919 and #932
Here's what I used (thanks 6L6):
DIY PCB - Bipolar (opamp) power supply | eBay
BOM at the bottom of this page:
LR Phono Preamp
Worked out perfect. Not too $$ to build. Has a fuse onboard—intelligent power switch setup—simple to add a power LED. Could have easily gotten 24VDC+/- out of it with resistor tweaks (R4, R6—values will not match due to circuit design). As is I tweaked it to around 18VDC +/-. It also fits in a 1U as speced in BOM as long as you use 1" heatsinks on the regulators.
513002B02500G Aavid, Thermal Division of Boyd Corporation | Fans, Thermal Management | DigiKey
See posts #919 and #932
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All the PSU that people have used have worked very well. The link pfarrell provided is amongst the very best.
I agree with pfarrell, +/-18v seems to be the sweet spot for the circuit. But remember that it works beautifully on anything between +/-15v to +/-24v .
Finished the boards now waiting for PS board and parts. Re read a few posts and read something about setting trim pot, was I meant to do it before the boards were fully populated or do I just for minimum DC offset at the output?
There was comment that this method (DC offset) might not give the best result.
Correct or did I read it wrong? (Very possible!)
There was comment that this method (DC offset) might not give the best result.
Correct or did I read it wrong? (Very possible!)
I believe the DiyAudio store will have the new stereo pcb's soon. Perhaps Jim (6L6) can give us an update on when they will be available.
Hi, if you look at the schematic he notes 13.7K for 15V (typo there, it should say “R6”)... I needed different values for each side to get the output more balanced, and I didn’t make proper notes, so you will need to experiment, but I recall that R4 was around 17K and R6 around 18K and change. You can see that I have a couple of resistors in series...
Report back on what you discover! Ha! I’ll make a note then.
I started on this project a year ago and got about 70% done. I had all of the parts but only one of the two boards that I built worked. So somehow I forgot about it (or ignored it) for about 11 months. But I finally got back to it and a blast from a hot air rework station gun aimed at a suspicious looking SMD part got the second board working.
And finally, though it isn’t particularly attractive, it is done and it works.
And finally, though it isn’t particularly attractive, it is done and it works.
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I think you are being hard on yourself. It actually looks quite nice to me. What power supply are you using? I am looking for something like that for another application.
Is there a picture of the Stereo board, plus board size and connection positions?
I'm starting a case layout design, while waiting for availability of PCB's.
I'm starting a case layout design, while waiting for availability of PCB's.
Values of R3 and R6 on pcbs regard to schematics are different.
What are right values for R3(100 or 680 Oms) and R6(680 Oms or 1.5k )?
What are right values for R3(100 or 680 Oms) and R6(680 Oms or 1.5k )?
