In case you are talking about my preamp and not String Emil, thanks, man! And don’t say you ain’t relevant! Like your work, your thoughts and your advice. Thanks for your advice on Mogamis btw! Know where to buy some for the preamp? Rather not in 500 feet rolls... which is most of the wire I look up is sold in.
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Here is a few photos of the progress so far. First pic shows the rca and headphone jacks that were very low quality. I will finish the 120v wiring tomorrow but I’m waiting for a better headphone jack to arrive to finish the output. Also thank you for all the kind words! As always, if you see something that could be improved, please let me know.
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Hi andi, thank you!
Most of everything I got right out of one of diyaudio‘s masterminds... 😀
I got some mogami from Audioverdrahtung | Kabel Meterware | Kategorien | cma audio GmbH they don‘t sell every type by the meter but have a look...
Most of everything I got right out of one of diyaudio‘s masterminds... 😀
I got some mogami from Audioverdrahtung | Kabel Meterware | Kategorien | cma audio GmbH they don‘t sell every type by the meter but have a look...
Looks marvelous! It is really cool you made your own boards. Could you drop a note on the source of those signal cables?
Cheers,
Andy
Ok. It doesn‘t look very good yet, and there are details not done yet, but the little bugger is real cool. It came alive and already „makes“ music... HA!
Andy, myleftear, IckyB - Great to see some builds coming to life!
Andy, I really like that front panel! I gotta up my chassis game.
Andy, I really like that front panel! I gotta up my chassis game.
I just had a quick ear on it—yes it is very promising! But already very livid(?), clear, quiet... I'd prefer not to further comment right now, it has to settle in, and some parts aren’t in the final stage...
(missing the new attenuator, and I'll have to check out if the cinemags are really required for the f4...)
Here is the digikey pn T1251-1-ND
Wish I looked harder and found something better than pvc jacketed.
I just assembled this yesterday but there are problems.
First one side was able to be zeroed between output and earth but the other side was reading about 8 volts and the trimpot made no difference.
I went around and paid a lot more attention to all the joints but to no avail.
So I decided to have a listen to the side that seemed OK but it had a nasty hum.
Then it started reading 2.5 volts with no difference with the trimpot either..
So I am assuming I have cocked up the surface mounted Jfets and will likely have another try with a clean board. I may have cooked those Jfets . They don't seem to be available either from Mouser or Digikey.
So I thought it was worth asking if anyone has a stack of them I'd like to buy about 20. They only cost about $3.30 for 10 so why not give it a better shot with some spares.
I've also updated my soldering iron and got a magnifier work station so I'll have another go at spotting all the joints before I completely give up on this one.
First one side was able to be zeroed between output and earth but the other side was reading about 8 volts and the trimpot made no difference.
I went around and paid a lot more attention to all the joints but to no avail.
So I decided to have a listen to the side that seemed OK but it had a nasty hum.
Then it started reading 2.5 volts with no difference with the trimpot either..
So I am assuming I have cocked up the surface mounted Jfets and will likely have another try with a clean board. I may have cooked those Jfets . They don't seem to be available either from Mouser or Digikey.
So I thought it was worth asking if anyone has a stack of them I'd like to buy about 20. They only cost about $3.30 for 10 so why not give it a better shot with some spares.
I've also updated my soldering iron and got a magnifier work station so I'll have another go at spotting all the joints before I completely give up on this one.
A version of this with on board DC voltage regulation would be mighty fine.
Later my OCD said something is not right.
Moved R14 in line with R19, R24.
Now what a relief. 😀
Edit: Not the only component that was moved for better symmetry on a scheme.
Moved R14 in line with R19, R24.
Now what a relief. 😀
Edit: Not the only component that was moved for better symmetry on a scheme.
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proper (ZM's criteria - means shunt) reg demands space
big pcb, big work
of course doable, but not task for someone without mileage
it's done before , this hobby is like laying puzzles
so , why not
I was commenting solution with pcb "all in one", generally
what is going to be placed on pcb, that's another set of questions and compromises
so , why not
I was commenting solution with pcb "all in one", generally
what is going to be placed on pcb, that's another set of questions and compromises
OK here goes OCD fix version of the same scheme.
If you open it in MS Paint and it fit your monitor and then flip image by horisontal and vertial, all mirror lines and components won't move.
More pretty now.
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An extra set of outputs?
Getting my preamp built and I'd like to add another set of outputs to feed a subwoofer. An Aleph J is my main amplifier.
Is this possible with this preamp design, and if so, is it a good idea?
And if the answer to both of those questions is yes, is it just as easy as adding another set of RCA connectors in parallel from the preamp board? Do I need to make any changes to the circuit itself?
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
Getting my preamp built and I'd like to add another set of outputs to feed a subwoofer. An Aleph J is my main amplifier.
Is this possible with this preamp design, and if so, is it a good idea?
And if the answer to both of those questions is yes, is it just as easy as adding another set of RCA connectors in parallel from the preamp board? Do I need to make any changes to the circuit itself?
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
