I have been reading this thread and I am very interested as I have a music hall 25.2 which I belive is the same player. At the conclusion of the testing with the new boards that will replace the IV section of the player , am I correct in saying that, would there be anyway for me to obtain a copy of the art and some support so I could replicate this?
Also, is there a premade solution similar to this I can wire in?
Thanks
Also, is there a premade solution similar to this I can wire in?
Thanks
Don Carlos 
I must first sincerely apologize for threadjacking. I opened the thread tonight just prior to bed... and an hour later, I'm now finishing. Many many thanks to CeeVee and Zen Mod for your efforts! I've been wondering what to do with my CD-S100 for a few years... I purchased it based on some great recommendations from some ears I thought I trusted, and was grossly disappointed. But, I saw there was certainly some potential after "popping the hood." And it's been collecting dust on a shelf for 3 years.
On that note, during a move, I lost the remote. I have contacted Shanling in China and distributors here. Shanling offered to sell me a replacement, but with ridiculous shipping and other fees it was quoted at over $150. I couldn't justify it. The distributor here in the states was nothing but unhelpful - it was very frustrating. He didn't want to help me as my unit is "gray market" (it's the 220V version, not the US version). I asked if he could add an extra remote for me in his next shipment from Asia, but he was in no mood to help.
So, my question, is in hopes of finding another CD-S100 owner in the states. Would anyone be willing to program a cheap universal "learning remote" for me and ship it to me?
Anyway, again - thanks to CeeVee and Zen Mod. I'm really looking forward to breaking out the Shanling now. I'm looking for a project to start after returning from my honeymoon in January.
Warm regards,
On that note, during a move, I lost the remote. I have contacted Shanling in China and distributors here. Shanling offered to sell me a replacement, but with ridiculous shipping and other fees it was quoted at over $150. I couldn't justify it. The distributor here in the states was nothing but unhelpful - it was very frustrating. He didn't want to help me as my unit is "gray market" (it's the 220V version, not the US version). I asked if he could add an extra remote for me in his next shipment from Asia, but he was in no mood to help.
So, my question, is in hopes of finding another CD-S100 owner in the states. Would anyone be willing to program a cheap universal "learning remote" for me and ship it to me?
Anyway, again - thanks to CeeVee and Zen Mod. I'm really looking forward to breaking out the Shanling now. I'm looking for a project to start after returning from my honeymoon in January.
Warm regards,
CD-100 Schematic
Thanks CeeVee, Zen Mod, and Manu for this great thread. I have been wanting to mod my Onix xcd-99, which appears to have essentially the same board. Below is a link for the full schematic I was able to obtain. It was sent to me as the schematic for the Onix, but it's labeled cd100. It is Chinese and certainly not the most detailed schematic I've ever seen, but it's better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick, and may be useful for further mods on this unit. Let me know if there is any problem with the link.
http://home.earthlink.net/~trans40/schematic/cd100sch.pdf
Tieftoener, I will email you later today re your remote request.
Best regards,
trans40
Thanks CeeVee, Zen Mod, and Manu for this great thread. I have been wanting to mod my Onix xcd-99, which appears to have essentially the same board. Below is a link for the full schematic I was able to obtain. It was sent to me as the schematic for the Onix, but it's labeled cd100. It is Chinese and certainly not the most detailed schematic I've ever seen, but it's better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick, and may be useful for further mods on this unit. Let me know if there is any problem with the link.
http://home.earthlink.net/~trans40/schematic/cd100sch.pdf
Tieftoener, I will email you later today re your remote request.
Best regards,
trans40
My pleasure . Sorry to contribute this late in the thread, but just got the schematic yesterday. FYI, to my request for schematic and service manual, Music Hall replied but flatly said no - they should be 
, Shandling did not reply , but av123 sent schematic readily; albeit no service manual.
Regards,
trans40
. Sorry to contribute this late in the thread, but just got the schematic yesterday. FYI, to my request for schematic and service manual, Music Hall replied but flatly said no - they should be , Shandling did not reply , but av123 sent schematic readily; albeit no service manual.Regards,
trans40
Hi guys,
...ZM!...no not busy, quite the oposite.
before blowing a fuse , i took 3 weeks off!
...k work, life has much more than that!
i did what i thought was imposible, ....total switch off, ..no work, no hobby,..no computer,...no newspaper,...no tv.
...had to.
Now i'm charged, a bit at least, and have worked a bit on this fun thing, PCB is essentially finished and i will post in next couple of days.
Thanks for your continued interest ZM,
CV
...ZM!...no not busy, quite the oposite.
before blowing a fuse , i took 3 weeks off!
...k work, life has much more than that!
i did what i thought was imposible, ....total switch off, ..no work, no hobby,..no computer,...no newspaper,...no tv.
...had to.
Now i'm charged, a bit at least, and have worked a bit on this fun thing, PCB is essentially finished and i will post in next couple of days.
Thanks for your continued interest ZM,
CV
Well well well ...the guy is alive.
Hi ZM, Manu, et al....
I've been away from this thread for various reasons...
1 - very busy with work initially.
2 - Decided later that ( as the rats nest test thingie was actually sounding great....minus the lack of bass issue ) that i would wait for Ctoole to redo the layout of his regulator, after Jan's input.
3 - The time has come to clean things up and finish ( for now ) this effort.
4 - Decided to make the thingie modular so that i can experiment to my heart's delight with I/V versions.
here are the almost final images of the motherboard and module.
The motherboard has holes to be bolted on top of the main drekling board......no worries there is space....about 3 cm to top of case.
I do have a question for you ZM that is keeping me from finishing this version....what output coupling caps to use....i've got space on the PCB as can be seen ...what would you suggest?
Hi ZM, Manu, et al....
I've been away from this thread for various reasons...
1 - very busy with work initially.
2 - Decided later that ( as the rats nest test thingie was actually sounding great....minus the lack of bass issue ) that i would wait for Ctoole to redo the layout of his regulator, after Jan's input.
3 - The time has come to clean things up and finish ( for now ) this effort.
4 - Decided to make the thingie modular so that i can experiment to my heart's delight with I/V versions.
here are the almost final images of the motherboard and module.
The motherboard has holes to be bolted on top of the main drekling board......no worries there is space....about 3 cm to top of case.
I do have a question for you ZM that is keeping me from finishing this version....what output coupling caps to use....i've got space on the PCB as can be seen ...what would you suggest?
Attachments
my fave is - when you need substantial capacity - russian PIO in can , spiced with teflon or polycarbonate bypass
choose your own poison ...... but leave place for small bypass , 10nF is enough to speed up even big one ...... if that big one is of decent quality
so - count on input impedance of your UGS pre ....
some ppl like Nichicon Muse elko , some like BG ;
not bad solution counting that you need at least 6u8 in each leg .....
what pcb proggie is that ?
btw - if you already have so-so regulated voltages in Drekling , you can implement just cap multipliers ;
shunt regs aren't necessary always ...... remember that you're feeding CCS here
choose your own poison ...... but leave place for small bypass , 10nF is enough to speed up even big one ...... if that big one is of decent quality
so - count on input impedance of your UGS pre ....
some ppl like Nichicon Muse elko , some like BG ;
not bad solution counting that you need at least 6u8 in each leg .....
what pcb proggie is that ?
btw - if you already have so-so regulated voltages in Drekling , you can implement just cap multipliers ;
shunt regs aren't necessary always
...... remember that you're feeding CCS here
Hi ZM,
Thanks .
The PCB Proggie is same as Manu uses : Sprint.....really very good for audio use....and easy to use.
will review boards with your input.
As you know what drove me towards the shunt reg was the fact that i was getting very little bass.
and the sound is really very good, so with the bass ok i would be in drekling heaven.
Thanks .
The PCB Proggie is same as Manu uses : Sprint.....really very good for audio use....and easy to use.
will review boards with your input.
As you know what drove me towards the shunt reg was the fact that i was getting very little bass.
and the sound is really very good, so with the bass ok i would be in drekling heaven.
CeeVee said:Hi ZM,
Thanks .
The PCB Proggie is same as Manu uses : Sprint.....really very good for audio use....and easy to use.
will review boards with your input.
As you know what drove me towards the shunt reg was the fact that i was getting very little bass.
and the sound is really very good, so with the bass ok i would be in drekling heaven.
as I remember - you were satisfied with amount of bass , when we solved biasing issues ( that DAC out and adjacent point in IV circuit are on same potential ..... )
?
you/we must solve any problem before you start wasting/spending time on final pcb ;
with generic 78xx or LM3x7 based PSU you must have exactly the same sound characteristics as with shunt reg ; hehe - even if with shunt you'll have much more life in sound
so - your answer on present situation - regarding bass , with PROPERLY biased IV stage is ?
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