TPA3116D2 Amp

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#2,161
irribeo said:
In 3110 I added 10000 uF -20/+50% Roe large buffer elco's once to 1000 uF Panasonic FR's, maybe I should have taken the Panasonics out ? but result was not good, bass output was increased but seemed like it was all from reflex port or something, indirect and lacked definition, the Panasonic FR has strong but very defined bass, mids too and unfortunately highs too, a little too much highs I mean, allthought after some days that seemed to get better. The Roe elco's also added a "grid" "haze", don't know how to describe exactly, like a constant electronic haze/stress somewhere to the sound, seemed less open/relaxed with them connected.
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I did not care for the Panasonic FRs with my 3110 either. That said it would be nice to get more feedback about higher PS cap values with the 3116. I've only tried up to 1500uf myself.
 
#2,162
maybe with output filters Panasonic FR will sound ok, don't know, now I started with Chemicon EKY 680uF on 3116, because I didn't try those on 3110 and liked them very much in another amp🙂
BTW if some feel bass is too dry (digital), lack warmth, try the nichicon FG🙂

I think I will add more buffer to DC input first, but not within a week...
 
#2,164
eplates said:
..is the amp producing well defined bass for the sub?
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At the mentioned crossover position the sub bass is very well balanced and compliments the sonic picture nicely. The MX5021 are supposed to have a fairly high crossover from sub to satellites at 150Hz. If, as somebody mentioned here before, the LR output is full range it does not seem to have a negative effect on the Altec satellites from what I can hear.
 
#2,165
Saturnus said:
The TPA3116 is already internal bridged hence the designation BTL (bridge Tied Load). That means both positive and negative outputs are "hot".

You cannot bridge an amp that is already bridged. You can however parallel one or more outputs to be a PBTL (Paralleled Bridge Tied Load) amp.

Fortunately I think the TPA3116 is protected and will just shut down if you try, however I'm not certain and would not recommend trying.
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Thanks for pointing that out. I thought something was different when I was using a gain clone-based bridge-parallel configuration as a reference point (in those cases, one of the terminal of the speaker is connected to ground). As you have pointed out, the output of these TPA3116 amps is bridged already. I was scratching my head try to figure out how to connect the outputs 😱.

Regards,
 
#2,166
mxelement said:
Do you mind taking photos? I have the same altec lansing speakers so I might do what you did. I'd like to see how you did it. Thanks
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There really isn't much to photograph - I have basically disconnected power, opened up the sub and removed the plate amplifier at the back.
The connectors inside are glued in with some type of resin - I just cut the sub driver wire as close to the board as possible and managed to remove the resin from the amp power connector to disconnect it. Since the insides are quite crammed and I could not find an elegant way to take out the driver (glued-in driver?) to solder some new speaker wire, I just extended the existing wire.
I also decided to take the bulky plate amp from the back plate which wasn't easy since it was completely smothered in resin. This left me with a few holes on the back-plate where the existing connectors were, I used one to pass the sub driver wire to the outeside and filled the others - it may have been easier to keep the old amp on the back-plate and just drill a small hole for the wire. Or one can get creative with a soldering iron and reuse the existing connectors after digging out all the resin.
I have left the big old power transformer (the one that was buzzing so annoyingly with the original AB amp) sitting disconnected inside to act as a nice bottom weight ballast for the vertical sub box.
So the TPA board sits naked on a pad on top of the now passive sub with the satellite speaker wires and the sub one connecting directly into its speaker terminals. As I am not too keen on making a case myself, I hope Feixiang are going to finish the tailor made case soon.
 
#2,167
xrk971 said:
Isn't bridging the same as turning the amps into mono PBTL mode to get 100 watts/ch with 2 ohm drive capability? You are 'bridging' the left and right channels. That has been discussed earlier and there is even a mono PBTL board I think. Are are you talking about bridging multiple separate amps?
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xrk,

I was thinking of bridging the L and R channels as in gain-clone based amps. As Saturnus has explained, it cannot be done as such. In general, paralleling amps improve drive capability into low speaker impedance by delivering more current and bridging raise the output power. Looking at the data sheet regarding the maximum output power at PBTL mode at 24 V with 26 db gain (1% distortion), the output power is 120 W at 2 ohm and 86 W at 3 ohm. Extrapolating to 8 ohm, I estimated that the power increase as compare to that at BTL mode is quite small. My current pair of speakers do not require a lot of current to drive but are quite insensitive (83-84 db). That's why I want to squeeze out more power from these little amps. I am probably asking too much.

Regards,
 
#2,169
xrk971 said:
I finally got my two amps from Aliexpress after 8 weeks. It was a good price but that was too long. Hooked one of them up to my new dual chamber reflex speakers. They sound really good. Just what you expect - great bass and very clear highs and transparency. These will be part of my miniDSP bi-amp in a box setup. I like the screw terminal connectors for the speaker out and vcc in.
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I got to listen to these some more and think that they are excellent sounding - just as good as the homebuilt unit that I have made from Dug's PCB. For $13.50 each - it is a steal but be wary of 2 month delivery. The cool thing about these screw terminals is that the wires once screwed in can be removed as a plug from the board and plugged into another board without having to loosen the screws. Great for swapping the board quickly or for easy assembly into a larger box. The build quality seems very good with sturdy PCB with a solid ground plane on bottom side for low noise.

The bass extension is excellent and it doesn't get warm. There is also hardly any pop when turned on if the inputs are plugged into a source.

I can highly recommend the Ybdz 2.0 board.

406609d1395112133-tpa3116d2-amp-image.jpg
 
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#2,170
xrk971 said:
Lo_Tse,
I try to build speakers that are 4 ohm loads by running 8 ohm drivers in parallel. You get a 6dB boost which is awesome. It really helps so look into that if you do your next set of speakers. I also use 85 dB drivers but they are 91 dB in 4 ohms and the 3116 can drive quite a bit into them.
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Yeah, although I really like the sound of my speakers (it is a pair of planar magnetic panels with sealed box woofers), at times their low efficiency really annoys me.

Regards,
 
#2,171
Hey guys...

Maybe a little off topic but has anyone a recommendation for a remote control preamp board to match up with the 3116 blue board??

I know of a few using the 6N3 Matisse board...

I also noticed a YJ LM4610 board with bass\treble\balance\volume that might be fun but no remote option...

Thanks kindly!!!
 
#2,172
sideways said:
Hey guys...

Maybe a little off topic but has anyone a recommendation for a remote control preamp board to match up with the 3116 blue board??

I know of a few using the 6N3 Matisse board...

I also noticed a YJ LM4610 board with bass\treble\balance\volume that might be fun but no remote option...

Thanks kindly!!!
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I recalled seeing some remote control volume/preamp at the Sure Electronic site. I suggest take a look there.

Regards,
 
#2,174
Listened to my yj tpa3116 red 2.0 amp for hours and now I'm in love with class D amps. 🙂
Planning to buy a YJ blue 2.0 version and use it in PBTL mode to drive a subwoofer. Will it work well?

Another option is red 2.1 board but I doubt about the power requirement to drive 3 channels using a single SMPS.

Thanks!
 
#2,179
Alright, I have received my green audiobah board

You know when you have big expectations on something and then when the product arrives your expectations are not meet ?

Not the case here . The board is well assembled on a high quality pcb.
Bad news for modders that don't own a L/C meter is that there are no big or fancy capacitors introducing parasitic inductance and pretty much everything is SMD. The good news for the rest of us is that this board is 100% turn on / off pop noise free , the hiss is much lower in level than the red yuangjing board the sound is overall better and you can also get on 1x100W mono by just soldering bridges.

Now, I am really enjoying the song coming from the tpa3116 as everything is there and sounds just right.
 

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#2,180
Virpz said:
Bad news for modders that don't own a L/C meter is that there are no big or fancy capacitors introducing parasitic inductance and pretty much everything is SMD.
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As a modder with an L/C meter I still see 2 large capacitors introducing parasitic inductance 😉 I would not know what having an L/C meter has to do with ready made designs ?! It would be good news to have the L/C meter ? You are right about that 🙂

True, SMD is fine at most spots but does that also count for the input caps and for the output filter ? Did you also try the YJ blue board ?
 
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