This is THE very good question.
What I have is DIY 2 ways speakers, with Audax speakers.
I never measured my speakers with a 'very good' class AB amplifier or class A amplifier, so I can't post any comparaison, except my listening impressions:
I tried one time my speakers with a flying mole amplifier.
No doubt, bass were here.
The result is not a feeling of a better powered bass (power is enough with the L15D or 3116) but a feeling of a complete sound because all the frequencies of an instrument are here.
Except this point, sound was similar. Very good precision for 3116 amplifier in dynamic (maybe better than the flying mole).
So again, for me, 3116 is a very, very good price/value product for my speakers. No doubt for that. and many thank to YJ for these boards.
But with my previous experience, I just don't think it can beat a 2014 +/- $500 amplifier. Maybe other measurements will say if I am right or wrong.
In the red YJ board, I believe the filters are designed for 8 ohms speakers.
I believe Saturnus stated that using 4 ohm speakers would create a treble 'spike'. Does someone know the frequency where that spike would be?
I believe Saturnus stated that using 4 ohm speakers would create a treble 'spike'. Does someone know the frequency where that spike would be?
Measurements will tell at least if you hear first harmonics or the bass itself. Some $500 amplifiers do this trick to make some nice bass out of some $500 speakers😉
Seriously, 3116 LF output is better than some $3k tubes and even some classd modules used in $$$$$ brand amps under OEM license. That's what I heard personally. Its just ridiculously good despite of price. And you probably know, $500 amp rarely cost more than $30 counting parts only.
On my alpair 7.3 pencils I can easily hear 35 hz and they are flat from 40 hz all the way up. Just can't ask for more.
Last edited:
Not quite. That would be the case if both poles of the filter reacted the same but they pull in opposite direction when the impedance change. That affects the filter Q but how much depends on the specific impedance (resistance at frequency). Even though the nominal impedance of the speaker is say 4 ohm the specific impedance varies greatly, so it's more or less impossible to predict without knowing more, and also knowing the exact filter layout and component reaction to temperature, moisture, and current running through the filter coils of the amp as that can also greatly affect the Q.
If I were to guess I'd say it's about +3dB spike at roughly 16khz.
Hm, even with the 10uh/.68uf of the new YJ board I still a little bit of sizzle around that range. My tweeters are a solid 4 ohms at that frequency.
You are right, I completely agree with you : if you compare a 2014 3116 with some good class A from 80's, maybe the 3116 is a performer.... But the price of a 3116 in the 80's can not be the same.... Technology is not the same.
Axxess AALC 2-Ch Remote Level Controller | 266-008For those wanting to add a volume control this may work for not having a preamp
D-class from early 2000 might also be bettered by now, many are sharing these TI chips are that next step but memories can be hard to beat, easier if you could compare that old amp you heard once?(Flying Mole) directly side by side with a tpa31xx
I'm not an electronics genius like Saturnus and the other guys around here, but I tried to do something creative for the TPA3116 community:
For those who want to build a custom enclosure, here are some .svg files that might be useful. I created them in Inkscape (free), these are laser cutout plans for 3mm plexiglass.
I tried to build a see-through enclosure of plexiglass and it looks great. It is built for the red YJ board but it can easily be adapted for the other boards.
The height is adjusted so Panasonic FC 35V 1500uF caps can be used, there is enough space for a CITEC volume pot and banana terminals, RCA jacks, a DC jack and a On/Off switch.
However, don't copy this 1:1, there are still some minor problems:
- Fragile hooks to click the casing together
- RCA jacks and banana terminals quite close together
I haven't installed the DC jack and on/off switch yet.
PS: I don't own the TI logo or the fonts used. The font is downloadable at Dafont.com and is called Aerolite.
The case is a heavily modified version of one of the Adafruit cases for raspberry pi.
PS2: The upgrade to Panasonic FC caps and CITEC potmeter has definitly upgraded the sound. It is now cleaner, with crisper highs and a better bass.
For those who want to build a custom enclosure, here are some .svg files that might be useful. I created them in Inkscape (free), these are laser cutout plans for 3mm plexiglass.
I tried to build a see-through enclosure of plexiglass and it looks great. It is built for the red YJ board but it can easily be adapted for the other boards.
The height is adjusted so Panasonic FC 35V 1500uF caps can be used, there is enough space for a CITEC volume pot and banana terminals, RCA jacks, a DC jack and a On/Off switch.
However, don't copy this 1:1, there are still some minor problems:
- Fragile hooks to click the casing together
- RCA jacks and banana terminals quite close together
I haven't installed the DC jack and on/off switch yet.
PS: I don't own the TI logo or the fonts used. The font is downloadable at Dafont.com and is called Aerolite.
The case is a heavily modified version of one of the Adafruit cases for raspberry pi.
PS2: The upgrade to Panasonic FC caps and CITEC potmeter has definitly upgraded the sound. It is now cleaner, with crisper highs and a better bass.
Attachments
![DSC_0959[2].jpg](/community/data/attachments/369/369524-6e9e69c61cef7313625d067b9ea3a026.jpg?hash=bp5pxhzvcx)
Nice build.
But I must say that I'm not an electronics genius or anything remotely like that. I just have an interest in these particular chips and therefore know a great deal about them. Add to that a general knowledge of electronics.
But I must say that I'm not an electronics genius or anything remotely like that. I just have an interest in these particular chips and therefore know a great deal about them. Add to that a general knowledge of electronics.
I picked up a YJ Blue Board while they were on sale and I have a quick question regarding a suitable DC power connector.
I have a laptop power supply rated at 19V/4.74A which I was intending to use as the power source. However looking at the DC power sockets available, while I can find several rated for 5A they are only rated to 12V DC. The only higher rated sockets I can source are 30V DC but with a 2mm centre pin while the power supply I'm using needs a 2.1mm centre pin in the socket.
Would the 12V DC rated sockets still be suitable for use at 19V or do I need to source a higher rated socket?
I have a laptop power supply rated at 19V/4.74A which I was intending to use as the power source. However looking at the DC power sockets available, while I can find several rated for 5A they are only rated to 12V DC. The only higher rated sockets I can source are 30V DC but with a 2mm centre pin while the power supply I'm using needs a 2.1mm centre pin in the socket.
Would the 12V DC rated sockets still be suitable for use at 19V or do I need to source a higher rated socket?
So I finally got my two blue 2.0 ChengZhi boards in on Friday after about 6 weeks time. I spent the weekend putting them in aluminum cases (first time casing an amp board). Any suggested improvements are welcome.
I will be using them to actively power my monitors, one for the left and one for the right. I built the monitors some time ago but ran out of cash for amps (spent all my money on the best speakers and dsp I could afford). These 3116 amps are such a good price! They will be mounted to the back of the speaker enclosures close to the speakers. The signal and power cables will run up inside the speaker stands to feed the amps.
After I get to listen to these for a bit, I would like to try bypassing the LC filters and use ferrite beads as suggested in this thread. I'm not entirely sure how to accomplish this. Any suggestions are appreciated. I would also like to try larger caps if I can fit them.
Even though this thread is cluttered, there is still a lot of helpful info. Thanks to those who post useful information!
I will be using them to actively power my monitors, one for the left and one for the right. I built the monitors some time ago but ran out of cash for amps (spent all my money on the best speakers and dsp I could afford). These 3116 amps are such a good price! They will be mounted to the back of the speaker enclosures close to the speakers. The signal and power cables will run up inside the speaker stands to feed the amps.
After I get to listen to these for a bit, I would like to try bypassing the LC filters and use ferrite beads as suggested in this thread. I'm not entirely sure how to accomplish this. Any suggestions are appreciated. I would also like to try larger caps if I can fit them.
Even though this thread is cluttered, there is still a lot of helpful info. Thanks to those who post useful information!
Attachments
I have ended up getting the Feixiang 2.1 board for my Altec Lansing MX5021 office setup and have been using it for a couple of weeks now. To me the results are nothing short of amazing. These speakers were probably never designed to sound this good, the TPA just took them to a whole new level. The sound stage is broad and lifelike, while new sonic details emerge across the frequency range. The bristles shimmer with immediate presence and clarity as the brushes slide across the cymbal on Jobim's Getz/Gilberto interpretation of Desafinado. The sax passages ooze with warmth and depth, to my humble ears this sounds not too inferior to bulky 5 digit priced setups I have heard in hifi shop listening rooms.
I find the sub produces the best results with the crossover pot at around two thirds of the gauge (not sure why is this? - the pot should have a 80-500Hz range and the MX crossover point according to Altec docs should be at 150Hz).
For now I am using the naked board on a post of bubble wrap but I have spoken to the Aliexpress supplier about an enclosure, he contacted Feixiang factory for me and advised they should have an aluminium case ready for it in a couple of months. They also make a finished DAC (ebay.com/itm/360607831838) with the same front pot layout and dimensions so the amp case shouldn't look much different.
The amp is powered up by a run-of-the-mill laptop adapter rated at 18.5W & 4.9A.
I find the sub produces the best results with the crossover pot at around two thirds of the gauge (not sure why is this? - the pot should have a 80-500Hz range and the MX crossover point according to Altec docs should be at 150Hz).
For now I am using the naked board on a post of bubble wrap but I have spoken to the Aliexpress supplier about an enclosure, he contacted Feixiang factory for me and advised they should have an aluminium case ready for it in a couple of months. They also make a finished DAC (ebay.com/itm/360607831838) with the same front pot layout and dimensions so the amp case shouldn't look much different.
The amp is powered up by a run-of-the-mill laptop adapter rated at 18.5W & 4.9A.
Here they are in the zip file. I orignally designed the case in Inkscape (.svg) and I exported it to .dxf (AutoCAD), but I don't have AutoCAD so I wasn't able to confirm it.
But it's always a good idea to double check everything, especially the drill holes etc...
Kind regards,
Psycho