Not sure. I have no experience with these. They can be better or worse than a "typical" preamp.
Regards,
Are the 5 spots on the underside the bridges that need a dab of solder to go pbtl mono? Pretty cool.
I like smt components. My ybdz 2.0 is all smt except output filter which are tantalums and that works fine.
I like smt components. My ybdz 2.0 is all smt except output filter which are tantalums and that works fine.
I am really glad to read your positive comments on the boards🙂. I have two of these sitting in my brother's place waiting to be shipped to me.
Regards,
Yup. You just link all 5 spots together (according to the information that I was given).
Regards,
Personal reviewed this board have below comments:
1) Wrong inductor in used, this is common mode choke use to block higher-frequency application and low Q-factor. Lack of HF presentation.
2) Four mount holes are un-isolated grounding. Have the grounding problem must pay attention for metal box installation.
3) Two pieces of ECaps is cheapest for general DC application.
4) Modder without any chances to mod or Sync connection.
Have you try the YJ blue board ?
You can't really put the parasitic inductance that you have onboard with all around trough hole component's like the YJ blue against a all around smd like the green board or the YJ red board .
If you want to sort things out or even set the output filters to match your speakers a L/C meter is needed when you have a board full of smd components.
I agree with you as I like to have big coupling caps and also some polypropylene for the output filters BUT I appreciate the tiny size and quiet background of smd. If someone could pull out a TPA3116 board using trough hole for coupling caps, bootstrap caps, and output filter components ONLY on a properly designed board I would definitely go for it.
My complains with the YJ red board wer the lack of bass, turn on / off pop and the big amount of hiss. I see already too many people having the same issues with the new, YJ blue ( or black ) board while the green board, stock form has nothing of that. I sure will change a few things here and there but in stock form the green board is miles ahead of the red board. In a few days I will see how good the YJ blue board is.
Yes, just do that and connect to RIN.
The ybdz looks good also and I guess it sounds better than the YJ red board ?
Can't go wrong, this board is really "plug n play"but I would change inductors, specially for PBTL mode
It sounds good even with these. You know it is very hard to find a Class D board with inductors that are "OK". I have already changed to some t68-2 iron powder cores wound to 22uH .
frequency application and low Q-factor. Lack of HF presentation.
2) Four mount holes are un-isolated grounding. Have the grounding problem must pay attention for metal box installation.
Nothing is perfect 😱
Sorry ?
They have not been delivered yet. What about you answering to my PMs ? I want to have a go at your board !
A few pages ago there was a couple of guys complaining about it.
Do you have pop at turn on / off with your YJ blue board ?
I don't have any problems with mine. Glad I didn't read your posts before buying mine. I would think the YJ blue amp would be junk reading your posts, and it performs great.
I am never said the blue board is junk, I am just saying that the green board has none of the problems that the red YJ board does.
Hiamplifier,
I am interested in your board and I sent you an email (via your EBay store) inquiring about your new board. You did not even bother to reply.
Regards,
I have just received one of the green boards. It has a connector with three pins labelled SD, MUTE, GND corresponding to the same pins on the chip.
Am I right in thinking that I should short SD and MUTE to mute the amp and SD and GND to switch it off?
The datasheet is less than crystal clear on this.
TIA
giulio
Am I right in thinking that I should short SD and MUTE to mute the amp and SD and GND to switch it off?
The datasheet is less than crystal clear on this.
TIA
giulio
The hiss/plop comes from an "open" amp with no source being connected/powered. IMO just 2 resistors would solve that. If a volume potentiometer is used this problem won't occur.
Sorry but you are talking the blue YJ board bad and the green board good. Just from the looks and theory ! Those parasitic inductances and capacitance are not always detrimental. I would rather have film caps for the inputs than SMD ceramic ones as they simply sound better. If it is right that the output coils are common mode types .....
*the uninsulated mounting holes are very interesting. I have seen quite some amps from China that have that. Just think what will happen if you use such an amp with an open frame SMPS (case always connected to PE) in one metal case.*
I check my Ebay message box before I posted and I did not see anything.
If you have sent me reply, thank you.
Regards,
Finally turned on my YJ 2.0 blue boards and do have hiss emitting from the speakers, plus the on/off pop is present... note, this is without any form of input source connected & with 100K Ohm resistors fitted between L/R inputs to GND.
With a basic volume pot added to the input [still without a powered source], at full volume hiss/pop still present... reduce the volume, hiss/pop reduces but is still present... Connected to my miniSharc set-up, things improved greatly with only a slight audible pop on power off.
Not listened to any music with these yet, just made sure they turned on/off ok with no issues. Will probably get a miniDSP 2x4 to use specifically with the two YJ 2.0 blue boards.
Paul
With a basic volume pot added to the input [still without a powered source], at full volume hiss/pop still present... reduce the volume, hiss/pop reduces but is still present... Connected to my miniSharc set-up, things improved greatly with only a slight audible pop on power off.
Not listened to any music with these yet, just made sure they turned on/off ok with no issues. Will probably get a miniDSP 2x4 to use specifically with the two YJ 2.0 blue boards.
Paul
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