TPA3116D2 Amp

Turns out this cell phone camera sucks compared to last phone.

The amp with heatsink I converted to mono so the caps are shorted. One of the caps had fallen off the board entirely so it is stuck back down poorly as well. The first pic is the last of the 5 or so I have that I had not stuck the heatsink down on. So it looks like the same defect as the other board.
looks like for mine:
R1 222
R2 222
R3 393
R4 010
R5 393


Many thanks, Jared. I trust your readings and need no photo of the chip.
Turning to the datasheet ( http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf ), Table 1 on page 14. R4 corresponds to R2 in Table 1 and R5 to R1 in table 1.
R4 = 1 Ohm and R5 = 39K is no valid combination. But, a value of R2 much smaller than the value of R1 means we are in the lower part of the table where the operation is "Slave". "Slave" means the TPA3116 chip has to be controlled from an external clock. But, there is no such external clock and from previous experience with another TPA3116 board having a similar resistor flaw, I expect that the carrier frequency is some 130KHz while it should be 400KHz.
We need "Master" operation and that is possible by removing R4 such that we have a situation like in the first line of Table 1. The operation should change to "Master" and the gain be reduced to 20dB. 400KHz carrier frequency.

Do you know how to remove an SMD resistor, Jared?
 
The only way I am able to it to heat it with a 30w soldering iron and pull with tweezers, or to just suck it off with a solder sucker. I will give it a try soon though, thanks for the diagnosis.


You normally need not pull it with tweezers. The fine tip on the soldering iron, heat each end of the resistor in turn and soon the resistor will move on the PCB or stick to your soldering iron tip.
Check afterward that the two PCB pads for the resistor are not connected by solder.
 
Watch out for wrong values of the TPA3116 gain and clock setting resistors!!

In more cases we have found TPA3116 boards, stereo and mono, with wrong values of the gain setting resistors (datasheet http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf , Table 1, resistors R1 and R2). This does not only affect the gain but worse if the TPA3116 operates as "Master" or "Slave".
The symptoms if Master/Slave is wrong is excessive heating of the chip and the filter chokes, and hiss that will not disappear.

Recent production philosophy is apparently that as long as there are resistors, who cares about the values. :mad::mad:
Try to identify R1 and R2 on your board, read or measure the values and compare with Table 1 to see if you have a valid combination and your TPA3116 is operating as "Master" or "Slave". If there is only one TPA3116 chip, it has to operate as "Master".
 
Recent production philosophy is apparently that as long as there are resistors, who cares about the values. :mad::mad:
Try to identify R1 and R2 on your board, read or measure the values and compare with Table 1 to see if you have a valid combination and your TPA3116 is operating as "Master" or "Slave". If there is only one TPA3116 chip, it has to operate as "Master".
Checked, it's set to master 36db.
At first I thought it was set to slave 26db as are the same resistors but inverted.
 
Many thanks for the photo, Deosneos. You managed well to remove the heatsink.
R4 and R5 are the gain setting resistors. There seems to be a problem at least on Deosneos board that could cause the hiss.
I found my own board, removed the heatsink and read R4=”104”=100K, R5+”393”=39K. That corresponds to “Master” 32dB gain according to the TPA3116 datasheet ( http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf ), Table 1 on page 14. Fine.
When I read the values on Deosneos’ board, I believe I see R4=”010”=1 Ohm, R5=”39x”=?. The “x” I cannot read.
Deosneos, can you please read the values for R4 and R5 on your board?
Jared, can you please read the values for R4 and R5 on your board?

R4 is indeed 010 and R5 is 393. R1 and R2 are both 222 (2.2kOhm), which is not in the table you linked.
 
R4 is indeed 010 and R5 is 393. R1 and R2 are both 222 (2.2kOhm), which is not in the table you linked.


Just as in Jareds amplifier. Also for you, the solution should be to remove R4 as I explained to Jared. It is very sloppy of the manufacturer to insert wrong resistor values when the guidance in the datasheet is so unambiguous. If you remove R4, please let me know if it solves your hiss problem. Perhaps you can remove the 4K7 resistors afterward.
 
Just as in Jareds amplifier. Also for you, the solution should be to remove R4 as I explained to Jared. It is very sloppy of the manufacturer to insert wrong resistor values when the guidance in the datasheet is so unambiguous. If you remove R4, please let me know if it solves your hiss problem. Perhaps you can remove the 4K7 resistors afterward.

I removed the R4 resistor and...no more hiss. Absolute silence. I then removed the 4k7, but that brought back some of the hiss, so I reattached them. Now the max volume is a little lacking (below my usual listening volume), probably due to the lower gain? Still, I'm very happy I got this far, and can't say enough how grateful I am for the help I (we) have been getting in this thread.
 
I removed the R4 resistor and...no more hiss. Absolute silence. I then removed the 4k7, but that brought back some of the hiss, so I reattached them. Now the max volume is a little lacking (below my usual listening volume), probably due to the lower gain? Still, I'm very happy I got this far, and can't say enough how grateful I am for the help I (we) have been getting in this thread.


Many thanks for reporting back. It tells other members with the same problem that this is a solution.
 
I recently got the board on the left, and I'm also struggling with hissing. I followed the guide on http://www.diybudgetaudio.com/TPA3116.htm . I installed a decoupling cap and two 4.7kOhm resistors over the pot, but I am still experiencing hissing at medium volumes (goes away at full or low volume). Any other things I could try to get rid of the noise?

I ended up turning the pot to max and adjust the volume elsewhere.
 
Hi safa, we continue after your exam. Good luck with your exam!

finally my college exam is over.
so, a couple days ago i use my tpa3116d2 board, i noticed a dc offset in the right channel. rising from 0v to a certain voltage until it trigger the fault mode (protect mode) -> fault mode turn on -> dc offset comes down to a certain voltage -> fault mode turn off -> dc offset rising again -> and it keeps repeating like that, that's my thought.

the wierd thing is, the more i use the board (not at one time, "i use it, turn it off and use it in another day" kinda like that) the slower dc offset rising.
and then yesterday the dc offset still rising until it stop rising around 4.1~4.2 volt. the highest dc offset was 7.5~8 volt.

and the more wierd thing is, the dc offset comes up and down if i playing with the input trimmpot, the dc offset is lowered 150~250 milivolt if the input trimmpot at around 50%.

any thoughts?
thanks.
 
finally my college exam is over.
so, a couple days ago i use my tpa3116d2 board, i noticed a dc offset in the right channel. rising from 0v to a certain voltage until it trigger the fault mode (protect mode) -> fault mode turn on -> dc offset comes down to a certain voltage -> fault mode turn off -> dc offset rising again -> and it keeps repeating like that, that's my thought.

the wierd thing is, the more i use the board (not at one time, "i use it, turn it off and use it in another day" kinda like that) the slower dc offset rising.
and then yesterday the dc offset still rising until it stop rising around 4.1~4.2 volt. the highest dc offset was 7.5~8 volt.

and the more wierd thing is, the dc offset comes up and down if i playing with the input trimmpot, the dc offset is lowered 150~250 milivolt if the input trimmpot at around 50%.

any thoughts?
thanks.


Could it be a leaking capacitor on one of the two inputs for the right channel? Are the input capacitors ceramic, electrolytic or foil?
 
Could it be a leaking capacitor on one of the two inputs for the right channel?
yeah, it could be. but i've checked all the capacitor in the front (near the input side) of the amp/chip a couple weeks ago and it seems nothing wrong about it.
I think, i need to re-check that again.

Are the input capacitors ceramic, electrolytic or foil?
I'm not quite sure about what is the type of the capacitor, but it's all in smd parts, except for the output filter caps (i think it's a "trough hole" film caps, red colored) and the supply filter (trough hole electrolytic caps).

any thoughts?
thanks.
 
It's all packed away now, so maybe I will get to measure it later. I think I will skip the diodes, since this will be permanently installed with whatever speakers I use.

When it comes to the calibration, I'm agree with your reasoning. I see the same tendencies on the scope FFT (but resolution is not as good) as in Arta, and the scope is as calibrated as it gets.
Maybe there is a point to do some calibration for the % number reading in the bottom of the Arta window, and one could also do a loopback on the soundcard and subtract the sound card distortion from the measurement, but the loopback is relatively clean on the sound card, compared to the amps I usually measure.

I actually did get back to measuring this board balanced in and out while playing around with a new sound card. Compared to unbalanced as in the first measurement I did, it cancels out a lot of the even harmonics with balanced setup. Still the composition of the distortion spectrum is varying a lot when the amplitude is changed.
 
yeah, it could be. but i've checked all the capacitor in the front (near the input side) of the amp/chip a couple weeks ago and it seems nothing wrong about it.
I think, i need to re-check that again. ...........................


It is not that the capacitors are open or shorted. All you need to create DC-drift is uA leakage currents.
Did you check the values of the gain-master/slave setting resistors?