TPA3116D2 Amp

Hi people. Recently bought a tpa3116d2 based amplifier that I haven’t seen mentioned in this thread. It’s the Douk Audio G5. I will be replacing the power and input caps, along with the op amps. But I’m having some issues with the output filters. I’d like to optimise the board for 8 ohm speaker but have no idea what inductors to use that would fit. This is the board in question. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Bluetooth-Digital-Amplifier-Stereo-Black/dp/B07X7ZDT89/[/url
 
Hi people. Recently bought a tpa3116d2 based amplifier that I haven’t seen mentioned in this thread. It’s the Douk Audio G5. I will be replacing the power and input caps, along with the op amps.

These amps ship with 19 volt supplies. Before you do anything else, give it a good run with a proper 24 volt 5 amp supply and see how you like it. Most of the marginal sound reports for these amps are because they are being power starved.

Changing the opamps on these boards makes very little difference.

Judging from the pictures of the main board you're not going to have much luck changing the bulk caps, either. The good news is they appear to be 35volt caps, so no risk running it on 24 volts.
 
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i have seen reports of similar boards shipping with fake ne5532 op amps

Yeah... you find that kind of crap in the Nobsound and Lepy amps -- the ones that are too cheap. That and recovered parts, also of questionable merit.

But I should point out that in the last while, the quality of these little mini-amps has been improving quite nicely. I've brought in and sold quite a number of THESE with narry a problem. In fact, I'm quite impressed by this one, it's very well made.
 
Yeah... you find that kind of crap in the Nobsound and Lepy amps -- the ones that are too cheap. That and recovered parts, also of questionable merit.

But I should point out that in the last while, the quality of these little mini-amps has been improving quite nicely. I've brought in and sold quite a number of THESE with narry a problem. In fact, I'm quite impressed by this one, it's very well made.

That SUCA AUDIO A502 is now for £20 at amazon.co.uk ...
 
Had a load of parts turn up this morning for my douk audio g5. NE5532P and OPA2134PA op amps, wima mks2 1uf/100v caps (won’t fit) and some Panasonic 470uf caps. Switching out the op amps made an immediate improvement, top end sounds a lot sharper. Still experimenting which one I prefer. I replaced the power caps with some fancy Panasonic organic polymer ones of the same rating, nearly twice the height of the original caps and barely clear the case. I wish this board had a little more room.
 
Greeting everyone, im new to this site, so please go Easy on me.

So i've a problem with tpa3116d2 stereo board kit.
The right channel popping like crazy (oscillating at 1hz) like in this video
YouTube
You can see my comment about my problem too in the comment section of that video.

The right channel popping or oscillating and the left channel is still outputing Sound But it goes like on and off in sync with the popping at the right channel.
Can anyone help me or pointout something...

Thanks.
I'm sorry if my English is bad, i'm from indonesia and English is not my main language.
 
Hi safa and welcome to the forum,

Please read about the same problem of "Zoran023" from posting #11318 and onward of this thread. From that investigation it was concluded that the problem is not simple to solve.
After reading the relevant postings, let us know if you are ready to continue.

NB: Your English is fine.

it's almost the same problem, the only difference is my tpa3116d2 board just have 2 channel without subwoofer channel (not 2.1 kit) and without preamp section at the front of the input section, like this...

XH M572 120W Ultra Power TPA3116D2 Digital Amp Audio Amplifier Board Module Amplificador Plate DC 5 28V E2 001 - AliExpress


a little backstory, i bought this board/kit 5 month ago. i use this board everyday after the day i bought this board with a 6.5" subwoofer/woofer hooked to the left channel and small old speaker hooked to the right channel to act as a twitter. it's doing well for 3 month and then i stop using this board because i got busy (college stuff) for at least 2 month.
someday i want to listen some music and i turn on the board, there is no problem at first. after a couple minute of play the problem kicked in, i listen to it popping for 10 second and it burning my speaker within that short 10 second.
I turn it off immediately after that, but luckly the speaker that got burn is the small one, not the subwoofer/woofer and yes that is the right channel.

any thoughts?

thanks.
 
it's almost the same problem, the only difference is my tpa3116d2 board just have 2 channel without subwoofer channel (not 2.1 kit) and without preamp section at the front of the input section, like this...
XH M572 120W Ultra Power TPA3116D2 Digital Amp Audio Amplifier Board Module Amplificador Plate DC 5 28V E2 001 - AliExpress

a little backstory, i bought this board/kit 5 month ago. i use this board everyday after the day i bought this board with a 6.5" subwoofer/woofer hooked to the left channel and small old speaker hooked to the right channel to act as a twitter. it's doing well for 3 month and then i stop using this board because i got busy (college stuff) for at least 2 month.
someday i want to listen some music and i turn on the board, there is no problem at first. after a couple minute of play the problem kicked in, i listen to it popping for 10 second and it burning my speaker within that short 10 second.
I turn it off immediately after that, but luckly the speaker that got burn is the small one, not the subwoofer/woofer and yes that is the right channel.

any thoughts?

thanks.


Hi safa,
First a word of warning: Do not use a supply voltage higher than 24V. The stated limit of 28V is wrong. Unless you need full power, use 19-20V supply.

Your small speaker, did it have a capacitor in series to cut off low frequencies?

Looking for the defect: First NO power or signal source connected, only using an Ohm-meter. Low range that can measure 100 Ohm. From all 4 outputs lines in turn, first to the negative supply terminal and then to the positive supply terminal - do any of the these eight measurements give less than 100 Ohm reading? Then, from one output line to the corresponding other output line, any reading of less than 100 Ohm for any of the two sets of output lines?

Your English is quite good and you explain well.
 
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First a word of warning: Do not use a supply voltage higher than 24V. The stated limit of 28V is wrong. Unless you need full power, use 19-20V supply.

for power supply, i have 2 identical 12v 3A dc adaptor and i hook it up in series so i can have 24v dc or (+12)-0-(-12) and sometimes i use this "combined" adaptors to power my other class d board that's need symmetrical psu such as tda8954th mono like this...
https://www.amazon.com/Walmeck-XH-M253-TDA8954TH-Practical-Amplifier/dp/B07KRC85PH)
and it works pretty well.

Your small speaker, did it have a capacitor in series to cut off low frequencies?

No, but this board have a input trimmers. I set the right channel input trimmer(small speaker one) at around 8-13% to prevent extreme cone excursion and for the left channel (the subwoofer/woofer side) i set it at full throttle.

Looking for the defect: First NO power or signal source connected, only using an Ohm-meter. Low range that can measure 100 Ohm. From all 4 outputs lines in turn, first to the negative supply terminal and then to the positive supply terminal - do any of the these eight measurements give less than 100 Ohm reading? Then, from one output line to the corresponding other output line, any reading of less than 100 Ohm for any of the two sets of output lines?

ohhh, i haven't tried that yet.
I'll try that soon (i have college final exam on this week).

Your English is quite good and you explain well.

Thank you very much.
sometime i wrote the wrong or wierd word, but still thank you.
 
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