transformer varnish "sets".
paints, varnish and such like have solvents that evaporate to allow the finish to "dry".
The solvents will leave pockets of gas behind. These gas pockets create a matrix of drying varnish cells surrounding the gases/vapours.
This is not what a transformer requires. But it might be better than using nothing.
paints, varnish and such like have solvents that evaporate to allow the finish to "dry".
The solvents will leave pockets of gas behind. These gas pockets create a matrix of drying varnish cells surrounding the gases/vapours.
This is not what a transformer requires. But it might be better than using nothing.
transformer varnish "sets".
yes it does, and under the "HOT" Manila sun dries in about a day or two...
i soak my finished traffos under the sun for almost a week...
so those traffos are good to go in about a month or so....
i know that drying takes time, i am in no particular rush to use them...
but i also test them a bit even before dunking them in varnish....
btw, you know when the varnish has dried up when the strong smell of the solvent is gone....
productive weekend......
productive weekend......
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Hi sir Tony may i ask some question,
i am doing my own traffo and would like to ask some advice i have 1 1/5" CL stacked to 4"
my available magnetic wires are #20, #18, #14 at about a kilo each
i would like to use this available at hand use the #18 as primary and #14 at secondary
my target output was 2x55vac,
i also use poly urethane paint instead of electrical varnish after rewinding and checking valve test.
thanks for the suggestion coz i am using the old school way
but school was basics compared to experienced strengthened by time.
i am doing my own traffo and would like to ask some advice i have 1 1/5" CL stacked to 4"
my available magnetic wires are #20, #18, #14 at about a kilo each
i would like to use this available at hand use the #18 as primary and #14 at secondary
my target output was 2x55vac,
i also use poly urethane paint instead of electrical varnish after rewinding and checking valve test.
thanks for the suggestion coz i am using the old school way
but school was basics compared to experienced strengthened by time.
if you contact the manufacturer of the polyurethane coating they should be able to tell you if it will stick to polyaimide, which is what the insulation on magnet wire is made from.
the usual advice is this:
it doesn't matter far as i know what mechanism the polyurethane cures from, provided it will eventually cure after its wicked into the structure of your coil or motor. you could theoretically use a water based polyurethane system, if its compatible with everything else. most motors are either thermosetting polyurethane or an epoxy system.
I have modified a few cheap generator heads, and whatever they use for potting does not stick to the wires very well. i suspect they use a cheap polyurethane thermosetting system. the wires feel very slippery and i suspect they are nylon coated polyamide. when i rewound one of them i used Minwax Spar Urethane for potting, it seems to be fairly identical in physical properties to whatever Generac uses in their generator heads.
the usual advice is this:
polyamide insulated magnet wire often has a nylon coating over the top of it.Sometimes bonding Nylon is difficult because the surface can have a “greasy” feel to it (due to slip additives). Even wiping the Polyamide surface clean with an alcohol-based cleaner will show little improvement as the slip additives continue to migrate to the surface. It is possible to “dry-out” Nylon before bonding – leaving it in the oven at 60°C for several hours or overnight will reduce this issue.
it doesn't matter far as i know what mechanism the polyurethane cures from, provided it will eventually cure after its wicked into the structure of your coil or motor. you could theoretically use a water based polyurethane system, if its compatible with everything else. most motors are either thermosetting polyurethane or an epoxy system.
I have modified a few cheap generator heads, and whatever they use for potting does not stick to the wires very well. i suspect they use a cheap polyurethane thermosetting system. the wires feel very slippery and i suspect they are nylon coated polyamide. when i rewound one of them i used Minwax Spar Urethane for potting, it seems to be fairly identical in physical properties to whatever Generac uses in their generator heads.
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it doesn't matter far as i know what mechanism the polyurethane cures from, provided it will eventually cure after its wicked into the structure of your coil or motor.
good to know and thank you johansen......
TRAFFO
hi sir tony good day...
may i ask you in using series bulb test to a newly made traffo, what would be the necessary wattage of the bulb?
is it ok to apply series bulb test after winding the primary coil only?
insert the EI core and plug in to AC Mains and if 50watt bulb lits up still needs more turns on primary or
series bulb test shall only be after finished rewinding the entire transformer.
the bottom line for me here is to counter check my computations especially on high wattage traffo such as 800watts or higher.
is there a difference on the bulb test done with primary only or that with fully finished secondary?
thanks
sam
hi sir tony good day...
may i ask you in using series bulb test to a newly made traffo, what would be the necessary wattage of the bulb?
is it ok to apply series bulb test after winding the primary coil only?
insert the EI core and plug in to AC Mains and if 50watt bulb lits up still needs more turns on primary or
series bulb test shall only be after finished rewinding the entire transformer.
the bottom line for me here is to counter check my computations especially on high wattage traffo such as 800watts or higher.
is there a difference on the bulb test done with primary only or that with fully finished secondary?
thanks
sam
terminations of pigtails i learned from the japanese....
now i learned it from you...
is it ok to use mylar as covers
thnks
sam
now i learned it from you...
is it ok to use mylar as covers
thnks
sam
yes...i use those too...
thank you sir...
here is my primary treated with poly urethane 3 days ago, i'll wound the secondary when its partially cured. in my opinion i prefer this so varnish can penetrate the primary. i'll finish it when i get home in the wekend.
sorry not in a good angle this was when i took pic on my diy of APEX AX14 with that traffo beneath CL 1 1/4"
regards
sam
here is my primary treated with poly urethane 3 days ago, i'll wound the secondary when its partially cured. in my opinion i prefer this so varnish can penetrate the primary. i'll finish it when i get home in the wekend.
sorry not in a good angle this was when i took pic on my diy of APEX AX14 with that traffo beneath CL 1 1/4"
regards
sam
sorry image cannot be uploaded i do not know how...i used the attached button on tab.
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