It's a shame we don't see more; is the design just so difficult to work with? How would step response compare?
Best box is no box. Least amount of resonances would be in infinite baffle sub.
https://ibsubwoofers.proboards.com/
https://ibsubwoofers.proboards.com/
It my not have box resonances but it still has an impedance peak at driver resonance.
So not as resonate free in that respect as an aperiodic box which suppresses that resonance. And given the amount of damping (and a good box) it will have little to no resonance.
dave
So not as resonate free in that respect as an aperiodic box which suppresses that resonance. And given the amount of damping (and a good box) it will have little to no resonance.
dave
Most likely I'm being really dumb here, but how is the box oriented for e.g. the green line in the chart? How would one build this in-wall? Presumably only if you're spanning the wall and pushing sound out on both sides of it? or is it "built in" perpendicular to the wall?Push-push sealed.
A closet in the room would work.
The left kitchen/living room wall extension could be used for opposed drivers.
The left wall behind the speaker is a closet too.
The left kitchen/living room wall extension could be used for opposed drivers.
The left wall behind the speaker is a closet too.
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Orientation? How ever you want. Used as woofer you usually want them firing so that you are in the perfect harmony, if a bipole, one driver facing (mostly) forward then the chart sstarts to play a role. What it shows is that as the box width becomes larger wrt to the depth the cancelation decreases.
A monopole loudspeaker the same width but half as deep placed on a wall will behave the same as a bipole out in the room as far as the bipole dip is concerned.
dave
@MrKlink yeah i've build some but failed badly with a TL sub for my studio. It had really crazy chuffing even at low volume (really weird things going on) so i just reverted it to its original state.
I was really curious if theres an "optimal" subwoofer thats still practical. But that push-push thing looks really interesting (and simple)
I was wondering now:
If i'd build a sealed sub and have to eq it like 10db or more to hit that 30hz for studio work, wouldn't that degrade the whole system because of crazy eqing? BTW I need something for 30-80hz
I was really curious if theres an "optimal" subwoofer thats still practical. But that push-push thing looks really interesting (and simple)
I was wondering now:
If i'd build a sealed sub and have to eq it like 10db or more to hit that 30hz for studio work, wouldn't that degrade the whole system because of crazy eqing? BTW I need something for 30-80hz
The mouth was probably less than 1/3 of the driver's Sd.
Ports/vents/negative flare mouths/positive flare throats should be >1/3 of total driver Sd to prevent chuffing noises.
Ports/vents/negative flare mouths/positive flare throats should be >1/3 of total driver Sd to prevent chuffing noises.
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The long boi looked something like this. (Not to scale)
Driver is not 1/3 the way in the line because the goal was as much dB per W and the needed bandpass was 30-80HZ
Also the project is scrapped sooo...
Driver is not 1/3 the way in the line because the goal was as much dB per W and the needed bandpass was 30-80HZ
Also the project is scrapped sooo...
Hello all its my first post here, it looks like a nice forum to me.
I make also recent a Diy subwoofer with dual opposed 12 inch scan speak discovery drivers, and a hypex FA501 plate amp.
Intern its almost the same as the Sigberg 10D subwoofer, but with bigger drivers.
The box is 18mm MDF and 36mm where the drivers are mounted with bracing and wool, it looks a lot like the Arendal 1723 2S subwoofer.
In Hypex filter design software the sub is tuned @ 22hz+-3db even flat as a SVS SB2000 sub, compared in REW.
I used a umik-1 microphone with REW 2cm away from the cones, to look at the response.
Dual opposed is a good design to make a subwoofer, there are many benefits.
I make also recent a Diy subwoofer with dual opposed 12 inch scan speak discovery drivers, and a hypex FA501 plate amp.
Intern its almost the same as the Sigberg 10D subwoofer, but with bigger drivers.
The box is 18mm MDF and 36mm where the drivers are mounted with bracing and wool, it looks a lot like the Arendal 1723 2S subwoofer.
In Hypex filter design software the sub is tuned @ 22hz+-3db even flat as a SVS SB2000 sub, compared in REW.
I used a umik-1 microphone with REW 2cm away from the cones, to look at the response.
Dual opposed is a good design to make a subwoofer, there are many benefits.
Dipole, since it does not create so many resonances in the room. So acoustically it is the best. Needs more power, needs to move more air area * excursiron, in short more expensive but easy to build.
Hello,
A question, why not a pipe? It will not ring for sure, moving mass in vertical direction can't move anything, cheap and easy to build and can be any arrangement as one wishes.
I built this from sewage: Beetlejuice-speakers.409269
At beginning it was bandpass, than sealed, now it's BR.
There is a world discussing SONOSUB.
And of course Nelson Pass ElPipe-O transmission line, for that one I'm sorry that I don't have 5m high sealing 😊
A question, why not a pipe? It will not ring for sure, moving mass in vertical direction can't move anything, cheap and easy to build and can be any arrangement as one wishes.
I built this from sewage: Beetlejuice-speakers.409269
At beginning it was bandpass, than sealed, now it's BR.
There is a world discussing SONOSUB.
And of course Nelson Pass ElPipe-O transmission line, for that one I'm sorry that I don't have 5m high sealing 😊
S2 was probably around 1/3SD, not 100%sure. Like I’ve said, I’ve scarapped to project. Would have loved to bring it off the ground tho.
Getting 30hz out of a TL is fun, the size not so much 😄