What about an organ pipe with multiple butterfly valves along it's length, that can be instantly open and shut to have the required resonance to reproduce the desired frequency?
There's vids on YouTube of people who have a complete wall of subs, but I can only think that would have issues with standing waves.
I think some people on diyaudio have had success with 4 subs in a room; 4 subs, double chamber aperiodicly damped, with opposed drivers in enclosures that are so stiff and light that they're resonant frequency is well above what they're used for seems the ultimate way to go for me.
There's vids on YouTube of people who have a complete wall of subs, but I can only think that would have issues with standing waves.
I think some people on diyaudio have had success with 4 subs in a room; 4 subs, double chamber aperiodicly damped, with opposed drivers in enclosures that are so stiff and light that they're resonant frequency is well above what they're used for seems the ultimate way to go for me.
A pipe always adds resonance. You plan to tune the resonance to always stay in a resonance mode ... this will give SPL level but not sound quality.
The reason to have a wall of subs is to AVOID standing waves - and that works well. Search for DBA or SBA. (double/single bass array)
4 subs proper placed is the first step - before you go full in for a DBA ;-)
Tapped Quarter Wave Pipe or Tube (TQWP or TQWT) are the easiest Tapped Horns to build...no angles!
Hello,
Clear, but pipe can be super compact too. Just look at automotive subwoffers. The shape doesn't automatically mean you need to make 5m organ 😂, but it does make it easy to build and automatically solves enclosure rigidity question.
Then you need to decide what frequency to chose and neglect all others. Music (nearly) always includes multiple overlapping/combined frequencies, such as a bass drum kick for example.
Edit: also you have to introduce quantization, thus a number of discrete frequency values you want to allow/amplify. Could be an interesting musical effect though.
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Hofmann's Iron Law...loud, low, small...pick 2. I chose low and small.
I built the least efficient tapped horn, yet I was able to crack multiple walls with 200 watts from a Yamaha HTR-5730 AVR in 2012. 12 years and still going strong.
Positive flare = loud and big.
Straight flare = easiest build, no angles.
Negative flare = small and low.
With the stepped feature in HR, you can model straight (no angles) positive and negative flared tapped horns. I think the most segments you can have is 3 when modeling a stepped TH.
This is an example of stepped positive flare TH. NEVER use corner reflectors. They take up volume and lower the efficiency. See the SS15 thread regarding corner reflectors.
Straight flare = easiest build, no angles.
Negative flare = small and low.
With the stepped feature in HR, you can model straight (no angles) positive and negative flared tapped horns. I think the most segments you can have is 3 when modeling a stepped TH.
This is an example of stepped positive flare TH. NEVER use corner reflectors. They take up volume and lower the efficiency. See the SS15 thread regarding corner reflectors.
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They are not the same as tapped horns. Just look at where the driver is, in relation to the mouth.
A TQWP or TQWT can be a
TAPERED Quarter Wave Pipe or Tube = TL
or
TAPPED Quarter Wave Pipe or Tube = straight flare TH.
Tapered = driver mounted on the outside of the enclosure, basically a fancy BR enclosure.
Tapped = driver mounted inside the inside the enclosure, basically a fancy BP6S enclosure.
My home theater sub is a Tapped-Tapered Quarter Wave Pipe or Tube, basically a negative flare tapped horn.
I want to say bjorno came up with T-TQWT. He's got a million HR models in the Subwoofer thread.
Reading back, I notice that TO is talking about a studio apartment. That does limit some options, I think it's quite important where you want to place the subwoofer(s). Fond as I already am of the Ripole concept, being a dipole they do need room behind them.
I've found out the hard way that just shoving a subwoofer in a corner is not the best idea and the intended placement has a lot of influence on which design will work best.
I've found out the hard way that just shoving a subwoofer in a corner is not the best idea and the intended placement has a lot of influence on which design will work best.
Positioning is everything!
Interestingly the best position for a single Subwoofer in my strongly dampened listening room was - the corner! Tried a lot, you have the least SBIR effects there. With 2 woofers it was centered front and back. Now I'm useing a single array with 4 on the front.