Maybe I am looking at this wrong, but mouser wants 46 cents a piece, 100 would be 46 bucks. 100 through parts express is less than 15 bucks....this cant be right?
https://www.parts-express.com/connectors-adapters/Solderless-Crimp-Terminal-Connectors
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/63435-1?qs=9f8l7NGB4rZxeRXFASMQVQ==
Russellc
It's possible the silver plating is cranking up the cost? Not sure, my only experience is buying from mouser or the china-special's off amazon.
Only one way to find out, I've just always been a solder and shrink wrap kind of guy, this is new. Have at least two projects going, this speaker being one of them that will make good use of a crimping set up, so here we are!
Russellc
Russellc
Brass tin plated variant is only $0.10ea. Probably good enough!
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/42437-2?qs=vaQePP0hRtVG8Bahl242rQ==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/42437-2?qs=vaQePP0hRtVG8Bahl242rQ==
I just realized that price is for a spool of 8000! There must be another price for singles.
They're not cheap. I will have to check what I was paying. I did buy an assorted pack on Amazon that included clear covers, but the largest size in the pack is good for maybe 16ga max.
1-70823-8 - part no for 6.3mm clear sleeves - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1-170823-8/2284643
60635-3 - part no for 6.3mm quick connects, cheap at digikey - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/60635-3/294251
If you wanted fully insulated, maybe part no EDV10-250FIB-Q - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panduit-corp/EDV10-250FIB-Q/9491246
Don't consider me an expert, I am just poking around on digikey 🙂
60635-3 - part no for 6.3mm quick connects, cheap at digikey - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/60635-3/294251
If you wanted fully insulated, maybe part no EDV10-250FIB-Q - https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/panduit-corp/EDV10-250FIB-Q/9491246
Don't consider me an expert, I am just poking around on digikey 🙂
I had some time to start installing the woofers into my XSD.
Installing the wires for the in chamber driver:
Hot melt glue seals the wire feed through holes:
Alternating in and out mounting:
Detail of magnet inside:
Detail of cone face outside. I’m using #8-3/4in black driver mounting wood screws:
Detail of Noico sound dampening butyl sheets installed on driver frame/basket to reduce resonances:
Video of effect of sound dampening on woofer frame:
Installing the wires for the in chamber driver:
Hot melt glue seals the wire feed through holes:
Alternating in and out mounting:
Detail of magnet inside:
Detail of cone face outside. I’m using #8-3/4in black driver mounting wood screws:
Detail of Noico sound dampening butyl sheets installed on driver frame/basket to reduce resonances:
Video of effect of sound dampening on woofer frame:
All drivers finally mounted in one XSD. I’ll do the second one tomorrow. This takes a lot longer than one imagines as there are 10 drivers x 4 screws. All needing center punch, pilot hole, then tighten screws.
I wish I had some #6 x 0.5in screws for the tweeter. I ended up using pliers to cut them to size to prevent poking through. I used machine screws and nuts last time but this is faster and has nice black finish head.
I wish I had some #6 x 0.5in screws for the tweeter. I ended up using pliers to cut them to size to prevent poking through. I used machine screws and nuts last time but this is faster and has nice black finish head.
Starting to do the 4 parallel / 2 series / 2 parallel wiring. It’s kind of tricky, definitely needed to use the schematic diagram and then a 1.5v AA battery to check for correct cone motions.
I tend to have poor luck putting 2 wires in a single crimp terminal, so I use these.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/60279-2/297741
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/60279-2/297741
Good idea! I’ll have to get some.
For now, I am finished with one speaker.
I should install the parts in a PCB.
For now, I am finished with one speaker.
I should install the parts in a PCB.
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Sound test of first speaker after a couple days of break-in to loosen suspensions on mid and woofers. Some countries are blocked due to sound file copyright. Playing in mono with Warp-1 amp and driven by SMSL SU-9m DAC and Amazon music over USB. Recorded with my iPhone 12 Promax. The articulation and snap is amazing. The bass resolution is very cool. There is a definite “live” presence to the speaker - the dipole / open baffle ambience is very palpable.
That’s the classic song by Nils Lofgren “Keith Don’t Go”
Hard to believe such an incredible quality of recording was made in 1975.
Hard to believe such an incredible quality of recording was made in 1975.
how do you break them in ? I have tested my pair last weekend for the first time and the result was underwhelming so far to be honest .
But I have not played around with positioning either and both , me and the speakers need more play time too 😎
But I have not played around with positioning either and both , me and the speakers need more play time too 😎
Hi Wagnju,
Are you using the passive crossover I designed and sold through my shop, or are you using your own active DSP setup? I can’t help you to debug unless I know if the XO is yours or mine. Underwhelming is something this speaker is not. It does not have deep 30Hz bass but the bass it has from 50Hz and above is very powerful. The -6dB is about 44Hz.
The woofers and PRV midrange do need breakin. The PRV has a very stiff doped fabric surround. Play music that has some bass at moderate levels (75dB to 80dB) continuously for 2-3 days. I used a loop of Norah Jones and Diana Krall. You can pick something that won’t drive you crazy with it playing all day and night.
You could do night club house music with thumping bass at louder volumes for a few hours and maybe that is quicker.
There is a definite change in the suspension loosening up though.
If you are doing DSP active, please share your XO plot so I can see how this is setup. Here is my latest example crossover plot as measured:
This particular set of woofers has a 370Hz peak that wasn’t there in my last set. But it’s not objectionable sounding.
Do you have updates to your photos with all the drivers now installed?
Are you using the passive crossover I designed and sold through my shop, or are you using your own active DSP setup? I can’t help you to debug unless I know if the XO is yours or mine. Underwhelming is something this speaker is not. It does not have deep 30Hz bass but the bass it has from 50Hz and above is very powerful. The -6dB is about 44Hz.
The woofers and PRV midrange do need breakin. The PRV has a very stiff doped fabric surround. Play music that has some bass at moderate levels (75dB to 80dB) continuously for 2-3 days. I used a loop of Norah Jones and Diana Krall. You can pick something that won’t drive you crazy with it playing all day and night.
You could do night club house music with thumping bass at louder volumes for a few hours and maybe that is quicker.
There is a definite change in the suspension loosening up though.
If you are doing DSP active, please share your XO plot so I can see how this is setup. Here is my latest example crossover plot as measured:
This particular set of woofers has a 370Hz peak that wasn’t there in my last set. But it’s not objectionable sounding.
Do you have updates to your photos with all the drivers now installed?
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Still waiting to build mine, dang sure want to but the total remodel of our place is just taking up all my time and funds......
I was considering DSP for crossover work but now thinking of passive at least for the mid/tweeter and active for the bass section so I can try out my beloved 10 watt tube amp on the mid/tweets.
Eventually I will end up with one or two most likely D class amps to save energy in our RV once we go solar especially so and if I can get these speakers to play well in our RV I might go all passive and one good amp.
Since I have 8" bass drivers I would need to go active or mod the passive design to work, XRK, do you have any info on the passive mods I would need?
Thanks,
Rick
I was considering DSP for crossover work but now thinking of passive at least for the mid/tweeter and active for the bass section so I can try out my beloved 10 watt tube amp on the mid/tweets.
Eventually I will end up with one or two most likely D class amps to save energy in our RV once we go solar especially so and if I can get these speakers to play well in our RV I might go all passive and one good amp.
Since I have 8" bass drivers I would need to go active or mod the passive design to work, XRK, do you have any info on the passive mods I would need?
Thanks,
Rick