Perhaps mistake was made in wiring the woofers. Close attention must be paid to switched polarities.how do you break them in ? I have tested my pair last weekend for the first time and the result was underwhelming so far to be honest .
But I have not played around with positioning either and both , me and the speakers need more play time too
OK , first mistake from my side . I checked with the battery and they were moving outwards when I set them up last weekend . That will be a easy fix
Looking to use waveguide/ PT2522-4 dipole tweeter in another application.
Anyone here test it with the XSD waveguide on offer-
HOW LOW do you think the tweeter could be used with it & higher order cross- overs (I'm looking to use at 2.5kHz, 4th order).
Thanks for any knowledge in this area.
-Chas
Anyone here test it with the XSD waveguide on offer-
HOW LOW do you think the tweeter could be used with it & higher order cross- overs (I'm looking to use at 2.5kHz, 4th order).
Thanks for any knowledge in this area.
-Chas
I used the PTT2522-4 with this waveguide in a 2-way crossed at 3.5kHz (commercial speaker LSA Signature 80). That tweeter has a distortion bump at 2kHz and I would not use it near there. 3kHz is about as low as I would go with it.
Here is the high pass filtered response of the PTT2522-4 in this waveguide as measured on the Signature 80 cabinet:
Here is the high pass filtered response of the PTT2522-4 in this waveguide as measured on the Signature 80 cabinet:
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I appreciate learning that this dipole tweeter has a bit of a distortion bump at ~2,000Hz; However, I'm also using a 30uF MPK cap wired in series to protect the tweeter from turn-on thumps. This also acts as a 1st Order filter at ~1.2-1.3 kHz (an octave below X/O) and should help to further reduce the tweeter distortion. You recommend 3.5kHz, but that's a bit high for my needs.
With a pair of 3" full ranges flanking the waveguide (MTM, 7.25" C-T-C) I need to keep the crossover lower than that (I'm hoping for <3kHz) or lobing is a problem.No help from the cap?
🤞🙏 Thanks.
p.s. my test baffle=12"wx48"h
With a pair of 3" full ranges flanking the waveguide (MTM, 7.25" C-T-C) I need to keep the crossover lower than that (I'm hoping for <3kHz) or lobing is a problem.No help from the cap?
🤞🙏 Thanks.
p.s. my test baffle=12"wx48"h
X when the +ve and -ve corrected properly will the cone move inward or outwards?
I'm a bit confused on this too. Let's look at one driver pair to simplify. One driver is firing out of the "tube" and one is firing into the tube.
When battery is touched to this single pair, on the driver firing "in" (+ to +) how should the cones move?
What I am hearing is they "both move in".....does this mean the driver firing out should move backwards, not forward, (towards the vent) and the driver firing in should move forward, also towards the vent?
The other thing that confuses my silly brain is the crossover drawing. It of course shows all the driver pairs facing the same direction. Whereas in the physical speaker, they alternate which direction they point. In the drawing, the driver's with the reversed connection are all on the right. In the actual speaker, every other one points right or left
The drawing makes me want to have every other pair to use the driver on the left be in reverse phase, which is not correct. No fault of the drawing, just the way my brain interprets it!
Thanks for any clarity here. I now have my connectors, but need to see the connections clearly in my head before proceeding.
Russellc
When battery is touched to this single pair, on the driver firing "in" (+ to +) how should the cones move?
What I am hearing is they "both move in".....does this mean the driver firing out should move backwards, not forward, (towards the vent) and the driver firing in should move forward, also towards the vent?
The other thing that confuses my silly brain is the crossover drawing. It of course shows all the driver pairs facing the same direction. Whereas in the physical speaker, they alternate which direction they point. In the drawing, the driver's with the reversed connection are all on the right. In the actual speaker, every other one points right or left
The drawing makes me want to have every other pair to use the driver on the left be in reverse phase, which is not correct. No fault of the drawing, just the way my brain interprets it!
Thanks for any clarity here. I now have my connectors, but need to see the connections clearly in my head before proceeding.
Russellc
+ve should always make the cones squeeze the air out of the slot. So it needs to move in. With magnet in the chamber, it needs to be wired reverse polarity relative to magnet out.
The drawing shows them all the same way and you could mount them all facing the same way (magnets facing all left or right for example). It will work the same bit speaker will have center of mass on one side.
The drawing shows them all the same way and you could mount them all facing the same way (magnets facing all left or right for example). It will work the same bit speaker will have center of mass on one side.
So the woofer that fires into the tube is moving forward, but the woofer that's cone is exposed and wired out of phase is moving backwards, so they both move towards center, squeezing air out of vent? The driver wired out of phase, the out facing cone, moving back, or no it too is moving forward?
😔 Sorry!
Russellc
😔 Sorry!
Russellc
Another quandary, pairs S1 and S2 are wired together, with S2 out of phase. Then there is a connection between S2 negative pole to S4 positive pole.
Am I messing anything up by making this jumper between positive pole of S1 and the negative pole of S3? I know nothing of crossover design, looks like same path, just connecting at different point, on the driver whose terminals are exposed!
Russellc
Am I messing anything up by making this jumper between positive pole of S1 and the negative pole of S3? I know nothing of crossover design, looks like same path, just connecting at different point, on the driver whose terminals are exposed!
Russellc
Please wire it exactly as shown in diagram above. Perhaps this diagram showing the slot loaded vents and how the drivers are mounted face in or out will help you (face out means magnet inside the slot).
Basically if the driver faces out, it needs to be reverse polarity. However, since the drivers are parallel then series speed, the output of the first parallel set (negative) goes to the positive of the second pair. For example, S3 and S4 are the first parallel set so amp +vs goes to S3 +ve and S4 -ve, the output of S3 and S4 then goes in series to S1 and S2 (parallel). The output of S1 and S2 then is the return to amp negative. This is one set of 4 drivers. The same thing for S5/S6 pairs and S7/S8 pairs. Note that I have the S even facing out in the diagram.
Finally, it makes no difference if both drivers orientations are flipped (left to right) as they will still squeeze air out on +ve polarity. That’s the final check. Use a battery to check each pair and then each set of 4 to make sure they all push in to squeeze air out.
Basically if the driver faces out, it needs to be reverse polarity. However, since the drivers are parallel then series speed, the output of the first parallel set (negative) goes to the positive of the second pair. For example, S3 and S4 are the first parallel set so amp +vs goes to S3 +ve and S4 -ve, the output of S3 and S4 then goes in series to S1 and S2 (parallel). The output of S1 and S2 then is the return to amp negative. This is one set of 4 drivers. The same thing for S5/S6 pairs and S7/S8 pairs. Note that I have the S even facing out in the diagram.
Finally, it makes no difference if both drivers orientations are flipped (left to right) as they will still squeeze air out on +ve polarity. That’s the final check. Use a battery to check each pair and then each set of 4 to make sure they all push in to squeeze air out.