Got the drivers in today, very nice indeed. I have worked with every tweeter design except these, horns, domes in metal, silk and more.....ribons, spun brass cones.....cool to use something different. Never had the need to use pro audio mids before and love the design of these, going to look great on the back side as well and will be coloring in the dust cap text. I wonder how a tiny bit more mass would change them if painted the dust caps copper, etc....? My wife loves copper and she loves great audio and good design.
Mini DSP 8x12, not 8x14, I wonder how good the DAC is, possibly just use it and not have a seperate DAC. I love the fewer parts in the system the better approach. I could do the passive mid/tweet and active between them and the bass drivers, using the 8" versions would make this a good thing to try since the crossover there would need tweaking anyway.
Mini DSP 8x12, not 8x14, I wonder how good the DAC is, possibly just use it and not have a seperate DAC. I love the fewer parts in the system the better approach. I could do the passive mid/tweet and active between them and the bass drivers, using the 8" versions would make this a good thing to try since the crossover there would need tweaking anyway.
Duh on me? The mini DSP is 8x12, hoping to not need a subwoofer; why I decided to use 8" drivers, not into HT(never used a surround system, never wanted one) so super low thumping not required, this would do the job for a 3 way active system and not need passives between mids and tweets. If everything works out I would prefer to have all passive and a 2 channel amp and no DSP but being in an RV it might be needed no matter what speaker type I end up with. Or, future fun projects just because fun to build, once the very intense remodel is done I will still need something to spend time on having fun, only just 71, lots of productive years to go!
I do need to put a bit of time to get my 2014 Fiesta ST DIY very highly moded in all aspects, 400 HP but detuning to around 320, back into running condition just to sell it, Covid cost us a very lucrative business so funds just not there to travel around for track days, time trial, autocross, etc. It does get 40 MPG when cruising on the highway but I can get that with something less tempting to get in trouble with) I would rather have a 2014-16 Mazda3 hatch, 2.5, drives more like a Miata than most cars I have had around 6 Miata's, so far
I do need to put a bit of time to get my 2014 Fiesta ST DIY very highly moded in all aspects, 400 HP but detuning to around 320, back into running condition just to sell it, Covid cost us a very lucrative business so funds just not there to travel around for track days, time trial, autocross, etc. It does get 40 MPG when cruising on the highway but I can get that with something less tempting to get in trouble with) I would rather have a 2014-16 Mazda3 hatch, 2.5, drives more like a Miata than most cars I have had around 6 Miata's, so far
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So are you using same "broken in" driver's, or all new? If new, mention how break in goes, some say midrange a bit sharp until broken in. Would appreciate it!
Russellc
I’m using all new drivers. The PRV does indeed have a very stiff doped cloth suspension. There may be something to the whole breaking in thing but we are only asking it to do midrange from 470Hz on up. Not much suspension movement there. When I used the PRVs new in the past, I know they always sounded “loud” but that was due to 95dB sensitivity. A “sharp” may be either the breakup above 12kHz if running wide open no XO. Or it might be a bad driver with excessive odd order harmonic distortion from a rubbing voice coil or bad suspension. Breaking in may reduce those issues.
Doing an impedance sweep will reveal any suspension or mechanical rub issues.
Doing an impedance sweep will reveal any suspension or mechanical rub issues.
I have a question about the sizing of the SLOB design.
Is there any rule of thumb pertaining to the diameter of the driver hole compared to the diameter of the magnet on the back of the driver and how close the magnet can be to the adjacent driver's hole ? Moving he magnet closer to the adjacent driver's mounting hole will increasingly block the flow from the adjacent driver (Inside cutout diameter minus outside magnet diameter).
I am considering this arrangement for a sub cabinet.
Thanks in advance.
Is there any rule of thumb pertaining to the diameter of the driver hole compared to the diameter of the magnet on the back of the driver and how close the magnet can be to the adjacent driver's hole ? Moving he magnet closer to the adjacent driver's mounting hole will increasingly block the flow from the adjacent driver (Inside cutout diameter minus outside magnet diameter).
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I am considering this arrangement for a sub cabinet.
Thanks in advance.
A smaller volume gives you a wider bandwidth (upper reach). But it is dominated by the depth slot aperture to back of chamber. Make sure there is enough room for cone to move without bumping. Sim for smaller than larger. Set the exit aperture to circa 20% to 40% of Sd of two drivers. It is mostly a case of making it fit practically. Ideally you want to run a simulation.
PartsExpress has 2 versions of the GRS PR woofer (6" and 8"). They also have a 8" SW subwoofer version with similar parameters, but a flatter response curve and 8 mounting holes vs 4. The 8SW-4 subwoofer version does not appear to have the peak at [2-3]kHz, has twice the XMAS and lower FS. QTS are all at 0.87 or above for open air. They all appear to be a variation on a theme so the basket dampening probably applies to all.
VAS is 2X and SD is 50% higher so the higher unit price should be offset by the reduction in driver count for the same amount of air (@ 3:2 reduction).
Is there any reason why the 8" 8SW-4 subwoofer version would not work in place of the 6.5" version.
Also, is there a way to determine distortion from the TS values (e.g. Qms and Qes) ? All 3 have the same 38mm VC Diameter so probably the same motor.
(DIY Tip: Big Box building stores carry peel-and-stick foil/metalic backed vinyl rubber "Fire and Ice" roofing rolls in multiple widths under different brand names that are much cheaper than buying dampening products like Dynamat Extreme. I have used both on various projects with similar results.)
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/GRS Spec Sheets/292-480--grs-8sw-4-spec-sheet.pdf
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Been meaning to ask, which version of the Wolverine amp would you be building? Might get myself a couple of boards, just in case, but wasn't sure which ones! TIA
Hi Guys
Just a short update on my build .
FInally I got some time to work on my XSD speakers . I could get my hands on some colored MDF sheets . Not sure if its the final solution but minimum it shows some progress .
Drivers and crossover will be installed soon .
Just wanted to give you a teaser as I'm interested to see other designs or build updates .
Juergen
Just a short update on my build .
FInally I got some time to work on my XSD speakers . I could get my hands on some colored MDF sheets . Not sure if its the final solution but minimum it shows some progress .
Drivers and crossover will be installed soon .
Just wanted to give you a teaser as I'm interested to see other designs or build updates .
Juergen
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So now that a little time has passed, how are you feeling about their performance? Can't wait to get mine wired up!
Russellc
Nice build. Those Mark Audios are my favorite
3 inch full range driver now. It was the fostex FF85WK for years. Build quality and sound and price. I hope you’re enjoying your speaker😁.