Peter, are those Tx less offensive than EI for hum field in practice? Should project from their core corners for one.
Those transformers are OK and the main advantage is that they fit directly on a pcb. Sound-wise, I think that similar EI Hammond units sound a bit better; as to the noise, I didn't notice anything special.
I have not really gone so far with the umbilicals as you have, Peter. What are the gains? What is in the construction? Shielding? Damping? What is going on inside those silver snakes?
Well, isn't it strange that there are so many different brands and designs of interconnects, speaker cables and AC cords, but nobody so far came up with an "audiophile" version of umbilical cable?
A local friend of mine got into cables business couple years ago and out of curiosity he built and umbilical with a similar design as his other cables: BLUEBERRY HILL AUDIO-Manufacturer of high-end cables
When I got invited for an audition, I got really surprised, as the gains were very similar to what you can achieve by plugging in a quality interconnect, to the point that the circuit actually sounded better with that special umbilical than when PS and phono circuit were connected directly on one board.
I'm not really familiar with the details of his products, but from what I've heard, the materials, the geometry (spacing of the conductiors inside the "silver snake"), raw wire surface treatment are all very critical for best results.
I did slowly replace all my cables with his and so far I'm very content. You can also notice that I even use his umbilical on CEC TL0.
A local friend of mine got into cables business couple years ago and out of curiosity he built and umbilical with a similar design as his other cables: BLUEBERRY HILL AUDIO-Manufacturer of high-end cables
When I got invited for an audition, I got really surprised, as the gains were very similar to what you can achieve by plugging in a quality interconnect, to the point that the circuit actually sounded better with that special umbilical than when PS and phono circuit were connected directly on one board.
I'm not really familiar with the details of his products, but from what I've heard, the materials, the geometry (spacing of the conductiors inside the "silver snake"), raw wire surface treatment are all very critical for best results.
I did slowly replace all my cables with his and so far I'm very content. You can also notice that I even use his umbilical on CEC TL0.
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Great! I see that Blueberry Hill will be represented at the TAVES show here in Toronto! I am looking forward to checking out his products...
BTW, the hissing - I replaced the opamps from real ones from digikey and waddyaknow, it's fixed...So beware cheaper OPA637/627 from China! I guess the old "If it sounds to good to be true..." bit me in the butt once again 🙂
Byron
BTW, the hissing - I replaced the opamps from real ones from digikey and waddyaknow, it's fixed...So beware cheaper OPA637/627 from China! I guess the old "If it sounds to good to be true..." bit me in the butt once again 🙂
Byron
I bought my 637's from arrow electronics in the US, they were cheapest, and I have hiss issues.
Where did you get yours?
Where did you get yours?
Mine I got from someone in Cali. from fleabay. Could easily be fakes. Still working on getting mine up and running!
Seems that my woes are from poor IC's or connectors elsewhere in the system.
I really like this phono section. It will not be replaced -- there is no reason for it.
I really like this phono section. It will not be replaced -- there is no reason for it.
According to Vcap, their caps take 400 hours to break in. That's a lot of wear on a cartridge. Thankfully, I'm using an old one.
At about 1/3 of the way there, the sound has changed a LOT. I'm really liking this unit.
At about 1/3 of the way there, the sound has changed a LOT. I'm really liking this unit.
I'm about to order "The Phono Stage" build kit, but I have a couple of questions before I pull the trigger on the parts.
1. What would the optimum voltage be for running this unit on battery power? I have access to high capacity (3,000-4,000 mah) NIMH battery packs (12v & 14.4v) and plan on going that route instead of the power supply. If I remember correctly this will require 2 separate packs for +/- voltage.
Last year, I remember reading that Peter recommends additional capacitors be used in the battery power supply. What are your recommendation on brand, type, value, quantity and implementation in the circuit?
Has anyone heard the Mundorf Supreme Silver/Oil caps in place of the V-Caps? I like what I've read and they would save me around $80 on the build, so I think I'm going to try them.
James
1. What would the optimum voltage be for running this unit on battery power? I have access to high capacity (3,000-4,000 mah) NIMH battery packs (12v & 14.4v) and plan on going that route instead of the power supply. If I remember correctly this will require 2 separate packs for +/- voltage.
Last year, I remember reading that Peter recommends additional capacitors be used in the battery power supply. What are your recommendation on brand, type, value, quantity and implementation in the circuit?
Has anyone heard the Mundorf Supreme Silver/Oil caps in place of the V-Caps? I like what I've read and they would save me around $80 on the build, so I think I'm going to try them.
James
I'm about to order "The Phono Stage" build kit, but I have a couple of questions before I pull the trigger on the parts.
1. What would the optimum voltage be for running this unit on battery power? I have access to high capacity (3,000-4,000 mah) NIMH battery packs (12v & 14.4v) and plan on going that route instead of the power supply. If I remember correctly this will require 2 separate packs for +/- voltage.
Last year, I remember reading that Peter recommends additional capacitors be used in the battery power supply. What are your recommendation on brand, type, value, quantity and implementation in the circuit?
Has anyone heard the Mundorf Supreme Silver/Oil caps in place of the V-Caps? I like what I've read and they would save me around $80 on the build, so I think I'm going to try them.
James
James,
I would like to try this stage also on batteries, I have had success using 4 x 6v lantern batteries on other stages, they are cheap and last a long time.
This gives +12, 0 , -12v when used in series with the center tap for ground.
Not sure about extra capacitors though.
Anyone tried altering the gain on this stage, is it controlled by the two 3.3k resistors?
Phillip
A quick update....
After about 160 hours, the unit sounds very good. It shall be part of the system from this time forward.
Thanks Peter, it's a great unit.
After about 160 hours, the unit sounds very good. It shall be part of the system from this time forward.
Thanks Peter, it's a great unit.
Peter,Also, while you specify Nichicon (Mouser 647-UES1H100MPM) for C3, the Wima MKS2 may be actually a better choice (when BG N is not available)
Since BG N is unobtanium and the MKS2 appears to be obsolete at Mouser now, any other suggestions for that C3 position?
Tom
Peter,
That looks good. I just wasn't sure how critical C3 was. I'm looking forward to getting started when the boards arrive this week, but as usual I'm short just a few parts.
Thanks!
Tom
That looks good. I just wasn't sure how critical C3 was. I'm looking forward to getting started when the boards arrive this week, but as usual I'm short just a few parts.
Thanks!
Tom
has anyone tried the Yamamoto Sound Craft YC-03S through this phono section?
0.25 mv and 1.2 Ohms.....may need to put the resistor on the output?
0.25 mv and 1.2 Ohms.....may need to put the resistor on the output?
According to Peter, the Shelter at 0.4mv and 12 ohms makes 0.0333 ma. This is the same as the Benz ACE-L, which I have tried. I can turn the volume to about 10 o'clock MAX.
Then the YC-03S will make 0.25/1.2 = .2083 ma, which is 15 db higher.
That won't leave a lot on the volume control.
The above is with NO output resistor.
Do any of you guys know what size resistor on the output will I need to drop that 15 db? Or even more???
Thanks!
Then the YC-03S will make 0.25/1.2 = .2083 ma, which is 15 db higher.
That won't leave a lot on the volume control.
The above is with NO output resistor.
Do any of you guys know what size resistor on the output will I need to drop that 15 db? Or even more???
Thanks!
You can adjust gain of the circuit with R2, R3 resistors: 3k3 as supplied but changing values of those resistors will regulate the output level.
I didn't play with that myself, but you can certainly experiment here.
I didn't play with that myself, but you can certainly experiment here.
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