What an incredible setup. Obviously, I am in a disadvantaged position.... it is pointless for me to change anything. I shall go back to the copper signal wire, and repair the grounding.
I should spend some time making my setup look more like that setup. (A Technics Sp10 in a panzerholz/birch plinth is on the way, probably with the Benz Glider SL. Arm, as of now, is undecided.).
I should spend some time making my setup look more like that setup. (A Technics Sp10 in a panzerholz/birch plinth is on the way, probably with the Benz Glider SL. Arm, as of now, is undecided.).
Update: I changed the signal wire to Legenburg upocc copper from Mundorf Silver/Gold 26awg.
The difference is enormous. The Denon 103D is ok now.
Don't use silver wire -- with silver the sound lacks body.
The difference is enormous. The Denon 103D is ok now.
Don't use silver wire -- with silver the sound lacks body.
Ground points
I have a similar problem in that as I turn up the volume I get more hum.
Presently I have the AC-IN and Turntable ground connected to a single ground- post on the chassis. I was wondering if I could connect the GND points I have coloured in red (see attachment photo) to the ground post mentioned above.
Also Peter mentions in Post 180:
You may try connecting wire from TT to the common PS ground at C4/C5.
Where in the heck is the common PS ground at C4/C5 on the PCB? Could someone spell it out for this dummy?
Thanks in advance.
I have a similar problem in that as I turn up the volume I get more hum.
Presently I have the AC-IN and Turntable ground connected to a single ground- post on the chassis. I was wondering if I could connect the GND points I have coloured in red (see attachment photo) to the ground post mentioned above.
Also Peter mentions in Post 180:
You may try connecting wire from TT to the common PS ground at C4/C5.
Where in the heck is the common PS ground at C4/C5 on the PCB? Could someone spell it out for this dummy?
Thanks in advance.
Attachments
Last edited:
Sure. I used a speaker post, but make sure you can solder to it. There is no connection to the chassis.
Also, I connected 3 holes over, to where the capacitors join -- the grounds you have labelled connect to the same place.
Also, I connected 3 holes over, to where the capacitors join -- the grounds you have labelled connect to the same place.
It's the trace that connects pins of both caps, as indicated in attached pic.
Attachments
As to hum, it looks to me like the mains ground leg is tied to one of the mounting posts, which might, depending on the build, also connect to the chassis. If you have another ground point tied to the chassis elsewhere, you've undone any "star" like grounding AND created the possibility of current flowing in the chassis and hum deriving there.
Yes, the ground post should be isolated from the chassis and connected to the point indicated in my previous post.
After fixing the ground and putting in the legenburg 24 awg equivalent copper, the unit sounds great.
Thanks Peter!
Thanks Peter!
There are 80+ hours on the Vcaps and it's sounding better and better all the time. This is a long, but worth it, break in period.
Anyone have experience with this AND the HagTech Bugle using the same opamps in both? I am considering a tube phono stage (e.g. the updated RCA or even, horrors, an active RIAA design) vs this one as my next project. I have the Bugle now (I've rolled it with a number of opamps but NOT the 627/637) and find it quite nice (silent as can be!) though not crystal clear and nothing exceptional to write home about. Just overall very nice. A comparison might help me decide what to build.
I have a nice 100R caddock, and only crappy 47R's.
I guess if I remove the resistor and jumper, and I don't have it hooked up, I will likely cook something - if I read the thread correctly.
Not a chance I want to take.
I just noticed that Nichicon Muse is not on this list. Are Silmics preferred?
I used the bugle years ago - I think it was the first phono stage I had that wasn't part of my preamp...And I can definitely say that the bugle is nowhere even close to being in the same league as this phono stage. I haven't really done an A/B comparison, although the bugle is somewhere amongst my forgotten equipment, but over the past few years I have had a successive improvement in phono stages, going from the Bugle to the Lehman Black Cube, to the ARC PH3SE and finally to this one. In each case there was a definite improvement in clarity, dynamics and overall 'rightness'...
This phono is detailed, uber-dynamic, and crystal clear. IMO it competes with some of the best phono stages out there.
Of course, this all comes with the caveat that you have an appropriately low impedance cartridge. I am using the Lyra Delos at ~8 Ohm (I think) and it sounds fantastic...the 38 Ohm Dynavector sounded good as well, but because I was using a passive preamp I didn't get enough gain to properly judge its' performance.
Build it - it is a simple build, and you will not regret it!
Byron
Thanks Byron. That's pretty convincing (not that I was expecting a different answer) though I'd love to hear from others. More importantly, being a die hard cheapskate and scrounger, most of my DIY equipment as been built from parts bin scraps pulled from dead equipment, computer monitors, etc. etc. So...anyone build it from parts other than the specs? Most importantly the V-Caps, boutique resistors and opamps (particularly opamps in the power supply - are 627/637 really needed there?)?
I don't want to get into a pi**ing match about whether these parts matter in general. Just wondering if there are any el cheapo builds of this preamp out there and how do they sound? I'd probably start by rolling opamps that I have before shelling out for the 627/637s anyway. So any thoughts would be helpful. A recent job change and reduction in income forces my hand a little on this one.
So, put another way, how would you build this preamp on the cheap?
Thanks again,
Carl