Dan,
I have went back and forth over that a lot. I deal with systems with min Z from below 1 ohm to above 10 ohms so I decided to use a voltage input that allows no more than 1 watt of power into the minimum impedance of the system. It is a compromise but so is a standardized voltage even if I were to set a standard voltage for 2,4 and 8 ohm systems.
I have went back and forth over that a lot. I deal with systems with min Z from below 1 ohm to above 10 ohms so I decided to use a voltage input that allows no more than 1 watt of power into the minimum impedance of the system. It is a compromise but so is a standardized voltage even if I were to set a standard voltage for 2,4 and 8 ohm systems.
I'm bein' a PRICK 😀, but I think were gonna have to get you an amp that just doesn't care what impedance you are working into... If that's what it takes to get you back to the dark side I shall instruct the minions 🙄 to hook you up with the iPOWAH!
Unfortunately you are too late to corrupt me NeoDan...I have already been seduced by the dark side of the force...
Once put into motion it cannot be stopped. 
Once put into motion it cannot be stopped. with that powerful 30 hz authority, do you think th requires kickbin to cover chest thumping region?
This build is unsuccessful no matter what the sim stats show. I just built one and am really disappointed. I think the 1850 works the best.
If you're not after a 28hz cabinet, and are used to LOUD from small cabinets from 60hz up, then sure you'd be disappointed by this one.
This cabinet has excellent, almost true "sub" territory, yet has great sensitivity and output as well.
There's no reason to build something this large unless you NEED 28Hz response.
This cabinet has excellent, almost true "sub" territory, yet has great sensitivity and output as well.
There's no reason to build something this large unless you NEED 28Hz response.
yup
the 1850 has an f3 of 50 or so,and sensivety of 105 db
he obviosly bild the wrong sub for the job
the 1850 has an f3 of 50 or so,and sensivety of 105 db
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Eh who knows...
Where did you get the prints from? Me? I don't recall if I sent them to you or not.
What driver was used? Was it the 21sw152? This isn't some cab where you can just throw a generic pro 18 in there and have it work.
I would be interested to know more details...Construction, amplification, processing (This is required.) etc. Some measurements or impedance verification would help too. Thus far most everyone has been happy with them. This is a real sub not a loud woofer as noted earlier. Seems like you may have expected a typical loud 50Hz box.
I can say that I am not disappointed with the ones that I have had built and measured. I enjoy similar output to a good quality dual 18" reflex but extension lower.
Where did you get the prints from? Me? I don't recall if I sent them to you or not.
What driver was used? Was it the 21sw152? This isn't some cab where you can just throw a generic pro 18 in there and have it work.
I would be interested to know more details...Construction, amplification, processing (This is required.) etc. Some measurements or impedance verification would help too. Thus far most everyone has been happy with them. This is a real sub not a loud woofer as noted earlier. Seems like you may have expected a typical loud 50Hz box.
I can say that I am not disappointed with the ones that I have had built and measured. I enjoy similar output to a good quality dual 18" reflex but extension lower.
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that driver will work but you'll need to use a 24dB Butterworth high-pass filter @19Hz minimum
Thank you tundra! was just gonns plug it into hornresp today but i was on my tablet last night. i thought ricci recomended a 25hz hipass anyways?
It all depends on what you want to accomplish and how much power you have. In the sim you can get an extra 3dB with a 25Hz HP filter but it also takes over twice as much power to get there
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
hmmm, only 58 volts of powerhandling before xmax eh? for the 8 ohm or the 4 ohm driver? let me plug this into hornresp, now that I'm on the lappy.
playing around with the filter wizard, it seems the best results to be had are around 63 volts with an 18 db bw filter set to 25 hz. this helps soften the 38hz displacement peak a bit while also raising the 24hz peak a tad (still both below 12mm). given that the Othorn is a music sub, theres likely more HOT content around 38 than 24. time to compare to the keystone.