With the poke, 1st pass at the CGR for the CHN-110 (this the free one).
They are large enuff that any of the 3 orthganol faces can be used for the baffle.
https://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/CGR-MK110-0v81-070121.pdf
dave
Edit: next revision linked Jan 7, 2020
They are large enuff that any of the 3 orthganol faces can be used for the baffle.
https://frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/CGR-MK110-0v81-070121.pdf
dave
Edit: next revision linked Jan 7, 2020
Yep, its still early. At one point in the design process the vent was 25mm high. With these i always try to reuse existing work, and, kije this one, when i shrink a box, dimensions sometimes don’t get snapped to the new vertex.
I’ll give it a bit more polish and put a new plan behind the lnk above.
Thanx for the QC.
I’ll give it a bit more polish and put a new plan behind the lnk above.
Thanx for the QC.
Well, after a full week listening to my MLTL build, i'm going to remake it in plywood and finish it on looks also. And i'll have to find someone who can draw them in cad also to publish them.
This is a great driver. Especially with my tube amp it shines but even on a cheap chinese SMSL class d amp it's sounding good. On very bass heavy electronic music like oldskool dubstep or UK steppers dub it struggles on the deep strong bass (what could be expected from a small fullrange driver without bass support), but for the rest it's a steal for the price it goes, this driver. And my first MLTL design seems to be a very good one so i'm very happy with the result of this project.
This is a great driver. Especially with my tube amp it shines but even on a cheap chinese SMSL class d amp it's sounding good. On very bass heavy electronic music like oldskool dubstep or UK steppers dub it struggles on the deep strong bass (what could be expected from a small fullrange driver without bass support), but for the rest it's a steal for the price it goes, this driver. And my first MLTL design seems to be a very good one so i'm very happy with the result of this project.
CHN-110
Hi all, I am new on this forum. And very new in speaker design. I just took my first steps in building a T-line enclosure with these CHN-110 drivers. I must say that I am a bit disappointed with the result. The bass they produce is ok but the mids are thin and highs are not existing. I build these without any adjustments (filtering). Pretty sure it is my lack of knowledge.
The enclosure is 107 cm (h) x 23 (w) x 22 (d) (outside size) and calculated with
HiFi Loudspeaker Design
Should I make this a two-way with tweeter or make other adjustments ?
regards,
Hi all, I am new on this forum. And very new in speaker design. I just took my first steps in building a T-line enclosure with these CHN-110 drivers. I must say that I am a bit disappointed with the result. The bass they produce is ok but the mids are thin and highs are not existing. I build these without any adjustments (filtering). Pretty sure it is my lack of knowledge.
The enclosure is 107 cm (h) x 23 (w) x 22 (d) (outside size) and calculated with
HiFi Loudspeaker Design
Should I make this a two-way with tweeter or make other adjustments ?
regards,
Attachments
thanks zman01 for your quick reply. I wil try your suggestion but I guess I first have to let them play for a couple of days to see if that makes a difference. The highs are there but it seems i am missing the top. Maybe I have to get used to not having a separate dedicated tweeter. I will see in a couple of days.
Thanks you.
Thanks you.
Did you run in the drivers? they need a long run in as they are metal cone. In the beginning they do sound very bad, but after 40-50h they start to sound good and after double that they sound real good. This is mentioned in the documentation of Mark Audio.
Your case is also a bit small i think, mine is 126x24x34cm with a front port. And your driver is way to close to the top for this alignment.
Did you add damping? A T-line need damping. In mine i lined both top halves of the sides with 6cm thick rockwool sono, in a pillowslip to avoid that the fibers come out.
My TL does have a very good tonal balance i have to say. It sounds very balanced and flat for a fullrange speaker.
Your case is also a bit small i think, mine is 126x24x34cm with a front port. And your driver is way to close to the top for this alignment.
Did you add damping? A T-line need damping. In mine i lined both top halves of the sides with 6cm thick rockwool sono, in a pillowslip to avoid that the fibers come out.
My TL does have a very good tonal balance i have to say. It sounds very balanced and flat for a fullrange speaker.
thanks waxx. No, I did not run them in. I did not know that was necessary (as an engine) but will do that before getting to conclusions. Yes I used damping but maybe add some more. I can't change to positioning of the driver anymore without rebuilding everything.
I am running them now for a couple of hours and I have the impression they start to sound better (or am I getting used to it ?). It looks as if they sound more open (don't know the right expression for this).
I am running them now for a couple of hours and I have the impression they start to sound better (or am I getting used to it ?). It looks as if they sound more open (don't know the right expression for this).
Yes it is, and Mark Audio are those who probally need the most run in. I never build something with Jordans altough...
There was a paper in my box for that that told me that. And that is general known that metal cones need to loosen up before they work like they should. Mark Fenlon also mentioned that in the past often when he was still active on the forum (search it, i'm on my phone) and it's confirmed by many who use his drivers.
And i did not take any measurements yet as it's bad weather outside (winter season) so i can't do it. In room measurements are mostly not right, especially in the small rooms of the old farm i'm living in.
And i did not take any measurements yet as it's bad weather outside (winter season) so i can't do it. In room measurements are mostly not right, especially in the small rooms of the old farm i'm living in.
it's the aluminium-alloy cone that need to loosen up, and it's the spider and frame that need to settle. But it's mainly the cone that needs it, the spider and frame only need a short time. Burn in is in general only needed for parts that move or heat up (like tubes), but there they can make a big difference.
With ready build speaker sets, that mostly happens at the factory, with loose drivers mostly not, and certainly not with Mark Audio drivers
With ready build speaker sets, that mostly happens at the factory, with loose drivers mostly not, and certainly not with Mark Audio drivers
All drivers need to break in Matt.
jan,
1/ the box calculator you used has a VERY little chance of yielding a decent TL. The only thing about that page is the nice Atkinson Line [a flawed line, but pretty] i did in the early days.
2/ as waxx points out, the driver needs break-in. Strarting at a low level with music and slowly increase levels over the 1st 100 hrs or so.
3/ there is a good chance you may need to recycle box #1. Examples of known good boxes are the Pensil, Joan (anf FHXL althou it is a bit small), i expect waxx’s ML-TL works well and Scott has done a number of designs i have yet to draw yet (sometimes he is like a fire hose).
Miscellaneous designs -Mark Audio, Fostex, TB, Dayton, Seas etc.
dave
jan,
1/ the box calculator you used has a VERY little chance of yielding a decent TL. The only thing about that page is the nice Atkinson Line [a flawed line, but pretty] i did in the early days.
2/ as waxx points out, the driver needs break-in. Strarting at a low level with music and slowly increase levels over the 1st 100 hrs or so.
3/ there is a good chance you may need to recycle box #1. Examples of known good boxes are the Pensil, Joan (anf FHXL althou it is a bit small), i expect waxx’s ML-TL works well and Scott has done a number of designs i have yet to draw yet (sometimes he is like a fire hose).
Miscellaneous designs -Mark Audio, Fostex, TB, Dayton, Seas etc.
dave
It depends, but in general cones need to loosen up, wich takes way more time for metal cones than paper or polymer cones as they are stiffer. But for mark audio, due to the way the drivers are build, the run in time is one of the longest i know, even with paper cones (like the 10P or the 12P) it takes some time. Most mainstream drivers only need a few hours, some even only a few minutes.
And you can measure that, take a driver before it was used and measure t/s, and measure it again after 100h, and you will see the difference. The t/s parameters published are in most cases after a long run in.
With factory build speakers, they are almost always runned in in the factory as they want to be ready for the customer for use when they leave the shop. I don't know a speaker set that is not runned in at the factory.